FlorbFnarb

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About FlorbFnarb

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  1. JT88 is fun, because it's different. Not sure I'd wanna spam the thing an entire evening, though. SP doesn't get screwed by T9s at all. SP gives as good as it gets. I've taken it into BT10 matches (platooned, obviously) and it does well.
  2. Ain't it though? Nothing like bullying Tier 5s then next match being an annoying, unremovable barnacle plinking at Tier 8s with 105mm HE.
  3. Why You Want To Build A Computer Instead Of Buying A Prebuilt __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ After all, the prebuilt saves you time, right? And if anything doesn't work right, it's under warranty as a unit, so no need to bother with troubleshooting which part is at fault; just send it back to the vendor and get a replacement. So why bother with building your own? I'll tell you why: Money. Greenbacks. Loot. Benjamins. Clams. Lettuce. Dough. Scratch. Dollars. Geld. Rubles. Pesos. Currency. Whatever term you prefer, you're going to save some of it. A lot of it. To demonstrate, here's my parts list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9HZv2R Ignore the dollar amounts; I got everything from Amazon and NewEgg plus one item from Best Buy. Total cost to me, shipping and tax included, was $1,025.78. Let's see what it would cost to get a prebuilt that compares to the computer I built, shall we? Let's look at Alienware. Those are popular, right? Well, you can spend $1,699.99 and get an Alienware Area 51 with a GTX 950 2GB and an i7 6800K; 7th generation CPUs are not an option. Getting an RX 480 8GB adds $200 to the price. It has 8GB of 2133 MHz RAM; getting 16GB of RAM adds $150. It comes with a ridiculous amount of HDD storage for a game machine, 2TB, but no SSD in the base option. You can spend $250 to add a 256 GB SSD with no HDD, or $150 to add a 128 GB SSD and 2TB HDD, or $400 to add a 256 GB SSD and a 4TB HDD that is 5400 RPM. Their "Alienware Recommended" option is for you to spend $550 to add a 512 GB SSD and a 4TB 5400 RPM HDD. The base PSU is an 850 watt model which sounds ridiculously overdone to my admittedly rookie mind, although maybe it's needed to run all those stupid lights on the oddly-shaped case. So you can spend $1,699.99 and get a significantly inferior computer compared to what I got for $1k, or you can spend another $350 for a total of $2049.99 and get something roughly equivalent to what I got for almost exactly half the price, except you get 2133 MHz RAM instead of 2400 MHz, more HDD space than you need but no SSD, and no Kaby Lake CPU.. No thanks. A more reasonable option is the Alienware Aurora for $1349.99, which gets you something comparable to what I got: an i7 7700 (so a bit better CPU), a GTX 1060 6GB, and 16 GB of 2400 MHz DDR4 RAM. However, base storage is a 1TB 7200 RPM HDD; for $170 you can get a 256 GB M.2 SSD and a 1TB 7200 RPM HDD. So for $1,520.99 you can get something around what I got, with a somewhat better CPU and a faster SSD...at more than 150% of what I paid. ...Then again, I did find this Asus dealie for $999.99. It lacks the Kaby Lake CPU, but it does have 16 GB RAM, 1TB HDD, 512 GB SSD, GTX 1060 6GB and plenty of USB 3.0 and 3.1 ports, plus two HDMI outputs and an optical drive, and a mouse, and a keyboard. So maybe you need to build your own computer so that I won't feel stupid for not buying one of those things.
  4. Assembly. No Kidding. (No, Seriously, It's Really Time To Put The Thing Together. No Joke.) __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ This is mostly the sequence I did everything in, modified to add stuff I just figured out as I went. So you started in the morning of a day off, right? No? Well, you just got home from work and it's late afternoon at worst, and you have the whole evening free, right? No? It's 10:30 PM and you have to work the next morning? Sigh. Figured. GO AHEAD IGNORE THE GUY WHO LITERALLY JUST DID THIS. Go ahead and oversleep and lose your job, wind up homeless, and get shanked by a homeless guy who wants the computer you just built so he can sell it for a case of Mad Dog 20/20. See if I care. Get the motherboard out of the box. It's probably in a bag with a sponge mat underneath it; rip the bag open at the end, leave the mat under the motherboard, and rest it on the bag as a work surface. The motherboard is the core of the assembly process until you're ready to put it in the case...which is not yet. Leave that gaudy case with the lit fans and LEDs in the box for now. Open the CPU box. Pull the stock HSF out and set it aside. Get the CPU out of its little plastic box and only touch it on the sides. Open the CPU tray on the motherboard. Place the CPU into its slot under the tray, without just dropping it in there; rest it in place. It will only go one way, which is dictated by little tabs and slots on the edges of the CPU and the tray. Remove the black plastic cover from the tray lid and close the tray lid. Yes, it will take a little pressure to close the lid. Go ahead, do it. Do it, chicken. Voila, you have just installed your CPU. Install your RAM. Check the motherboard manual (not for the last time!) to see which RAM slots to use. Make sure it is oriented properly; it will only go one way. Make sure it is properly seated, then close the end clamp(s). (optional) Install the stock HSF according to the instructions if you are using it to save money. They usually have thermal paste pre-applied. What's that? You're spending $800-$1,000 on a computer, and figured it was silly to balk at spending $14 on an aftermarket HSF? Good man. Put the stock HSF back in the CPU box and keep it on the (highly unlikely) off chance that something happens to your aftermarket HSF. Put a drop of thermal paste in the center of the CPU. Just a pea-sized amount. Yes, I've seen things that talk about spreading it, and some say you should do a vertical line down the center of some Intel CPUs. Don't spread it, don't bother with lines. Keep it simple, stupid. Just a pea-sized dot of thermal paste in the dead center. Don't worry if it's the size of a largish pea; I ended up doing just that and no thermal paste squidged out from under my CPU. Put your HSF together and install it onto the motherboard. It should, of course, make contact with the CPU. From what I understand (and from what one of those Logical Increments videos showed) there are apparently some HSFs that are a bit complicated to install. Mine was simple; one mounting bracket for Intel CPUs, a different one for AMD CPUs. Use the correct one and mount it. With a micro-ATX board it should be solidly enough fixed to the motherboard that you can pick the whole thing up by the HSF. Do not try this with the graphics card installed; the graphics card is as heavy as the motherboard is, most likely. Check the motherboard manual (not for the last time!) and find the proper port to plug the HSF into on the motherboard. It won't need a direct connection from the PSU, or at least mine didn't; it draws power through the motherboard. Yes, you get to take the case out of its box now. Go ahead, do it. See how large it is? You did listen to me when I said to set up a roomy work surface and leave everything in the box until you need it, right? Now you see why; your case is a honkin' big metal box. Hopefully red, since you got that Phantom 410 from NZXT, right? No? You got some gigantic purple case with red LEDs and green illuminated fans? Are you 14? Never mind. Take the case's side panels off. Install the motherboard's I/O shield into the back of the case. It's slightly thin metal and a little flex-y, but don't worry; use a little care and you won't end up bending it. It just snaps into place. Set the case on the floor for now. Get your graphics card out of its box. Yes, go ahead. Check your motherboard manual (not for the last time!) to find out which is the highest speed PCIe slot available. Test-fit the GPU in that slot. Some cards have a fairly large backplate or fan assembly, and some motherboards have an I/O cover that goes around some of the I/O port stuff; see some of my photos earlier in the thread to see what I'm talking about. If the GPU fits just fine, you're good to go. Take it out and put it back in its box. If the I/O cover didn't let the GPU fit into place, set the GPU aside and remove the I/O cover from the motherboard; it should be removable with a few small screws on the underside of the motherboard. Test-fit the GPU again, then take it out and put it back in its box. No, don't leave it sitting on your workbench; the workbench is about to get crowded. Set the motherboard to the side of the workbench. Set the case back on the workbench. Check the motherboard standoffs in the case; these ensure the underside of the motherboard does not make direct contact with the metal case's metal mounting plate. Computer circuits carry electricity, you see, and are exposed on the underside of the motherboard; if they make contact with the metal mounting plate in your case, they short circuit, and things melt. Your motherboard is probably not the most expensive component of your computer (and if it is, why?) but you don't want to have to replace it. Make sure you use the proper standoffs for your motherboard size; they were conveniently marked inside my case. Most of them came pre-mounted, I had to move one, and it came with one extra, which I used. If you have to take one out, it will probably require some needlenose pliers; don't strip the thing badly when you remove it. Make sure they line up with the mounting screw holes on your motherboard. Install the motherboard, making sure to re-confirm that the standoffs match up with the holes on the motherboard. Screw the screws in snugly but don't get stupid and overtighten them; the motherboard is made out of plastic, after all. Start plugging your motherboard into the case. What you will have at this stage are various connectors for the power button, reset button, LEDs for the power indicator light and HDD activity light on the front, and front USB connections. Check your motherboard manual (not for the last time!) to get these right. They tend to be small, but your case is mostly empty at this point. Usually the polarity does not matter for most of the connectors, but it does for the LEDs. IIRC the USB connectors could only go in one way and it was not possible to accidentally plug them in backwards. If a case fan connector only has a 3 pin connector but the port on your motherboard is four pin, that's fine. Pin 4 is for a fan speed controller, and if your case doesn't have one then the stock fan will probably have a 3 pin connector. Plug the connector into pins 1-3 in the port and you're good to go. Install your storage drives. They go on the back side of the motherboard mounting plate. I have an SSD and HDD in mine, but no optical drive, so I have no tips for installing optical drives. Sorry. The SSD and HDD are retarded easy to install; my case has little drive mounting plates that hook into the main motherboard mounting plate of the case with two tabs on the left side then a fat thumb-type screw on the right. Unscrew and remove them, mount the drive to the plate with four little screws, then put the plate tabs into the motherboard mounting plate and tighten the thumbscrew down. Like I said, retarded easy. Check your motherboard manual (not for the last time!) to find the proper SATA ports on the motherboard, connect one end of your SATA connectors to the drives and the other to the motherboard SATA ports. You don't need to remember which drive got plugged into which port (thanks @BlackAdder!) since the BIOS will automatically detect both drives and identify which is which. Install your graphics card. Take the cover plates off the back of the case that correspond to the PCIe slot or slots the card is going to be taking up; the I/O plate on my graphics card takes up two slots. Install your wifi card, if you have one. If your computer is placed where you can conveniently just run an Ethernet cable to it and plug it into the back of the motherboard, congrats; you just saved $30-$50 and will have the best connection. If Ethernet is not a feasible solution, install the wifi card. If you use a wifi dongle, well...@Folterknecht tells me that they give crap connections and drop packets, so please be on the other team. If you buy a $7 dongle and it gives you flawless performance, I hate you and hope your dog decides to mark your computer as his territory. Also, I like saying "dongle". Dongle. If your wifi card has a Bluetooth connector, go ahead and plug it in now. Plug the antenna into the card's backplate. Install your PSU. The PSU is going to go into a rather cramped spot in the case, so I found it easiest to go ahead and plug all needed connectors into the PSU before I put the PSU in the case. If your PSU won't fit in the back of the case, don't worry; in some cases you slide it in the side of the case into the PSU bay. Screw the PSU into the case. Start threading power cables where they need to go; try to think about how you're doing this, since some of them are rather thick, or are ribbon-type connectors, and resist doing a lot of twisting or flexing. I had power connections to the motherboard, CPU, GPU, SDD, and HDD. In my case the front panel lights, HSF, wifi card, and case fan all worked on power delivered by the motherboard. YMMV; apparently some GPUs do not need power directly from the PSU, and any aftermarket fans or lights are likely to require power directly from the PSU. Try to route these cables neatly but accept that nothing will be perfect and that the perfect should not be the enemy of the good; being OCD will not help you here. Congratulations; your parts are all installed now. Leave the side panels off. If you did everything right, you could go ahead and put the side panels back on, but my case has no side window, and I wanted to be able to visually confirm that the case fan, HSF, and GPU fans were all operating. Move your computer to your desk and connect your peripherals: keyboard, mouse, and monitor. Be sure and plug the monitor into your GPU output and not the motherboard output. Plug in the power cable. Switch the computer on with the switch on your PSU in the back. Press the power button. Hit DEL or F1 or F2 or F12 or whatever you have to hit to enter your BIOS at the POST screen. When your BIOS comes up, make sure your RAM is running at the right speed. If not, you might have to load a different BIOS profile. If that doesn't work, come here and light up the Folter-signal until you get help. Beg him or the other knowledgeable types around here to figure your problem out for you. Check to see that everything seems to be running properly. Turn the computer off. To install Windows, plug your USB 2.0 flash drive with your Windows 10 installation media on it into a USB 2.0 port on your computer, and turn the computer on. When the computer comes up, answer the questions and follow the steps required. Once Windows is installed, install World of Tanks. You know you want to. Remember all those good times? Go ahead - get the HD client. Eat a sandwich while waiting for WoT to install. Shake your head at how ridiculously long it takes. Play WoT. Set it to max graphics. Boggle at running WoT at max graphics and getting 110-120 fps. If you installed to an SSD, enjoy loading in before the countdown even starts. Get on absolutely terrible teams of paint-eating, glue-sniffing, window-licking, paint-thinner-huffing idiots 75% of the time. Get repeatedly snapshotted at long range by moving tanks with supposedly awful accuracy. Get shot on the move by arty. Curse the idiot clickers. Have an embarrassingly bad session and lose 75% of your matches. Put your side panels back on. Keeps the dust out. It's why you even have a case, remember? Uninstall WoT. You know you want to. Remember all those nights you shouted yourself hoarse? Go ahead - click "uninstall". Guzzle whiskey while waiting for WoT to uninstall. Shake your head at how ridiculously long it takes. Swear off computer games. Take up a less annoying hobby, like badgering random people into kicking you in the business. Smash your brand-new computer into scrap, burn the remains, and piss on the ashes. Go live in a cabin in the woods. The Unabomber was right. Technology is the devil. I'm somewhere between steps 32 and 33 right now; I'll let you know how the process goes when it's complete, which will probably involve a snail-mail letter to...to @Never, somehow, I guess. No return address will be on the envelope; why do you need to know where my cabin is? Are you trying to find me? Do you work for the government? Go away.
  5. Before Assembly __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Things to consider before you start assembling: Set aside a space which is well-lit, out of the reach of pets and little kids, and roomy, with a non-conductive work surface - meaning no metal workbenches. You are not going to get it done in one shot if this is your first rodeo, unless you start in the morning on a day off. Accept that. I started mine at something like 10:00 PM or so (that's 2200 for you, @Folterknecht ), and was up until 3:30 AM the next morning...and I had to get up at 6:30 to be at work. Don't be me; wait for a day off, or at least set aside a day when you can come straight home from work and immediately start assembly with no interruptions, or you're gonna be up late. Don't rush the process; this is your first time. I made sure to go slowly and understand what I was doing. Most of your components are going to have poor manuals. Some of them will mostly amount to a series of visual diagrams showing how this or that works. Some will appear to be moderately informative 20 page manuals, until you realize that they have instructions in 20 languages, one page of bullet points each. That's fine. Your motherboard will probably have a fairly solid and informative manual with it, with good information about ports and such on the board. Read it and keep it with you; you will want to refer to it with each step along the way. As a matter of fact, go ahead and give the manual a look when the motherboard arrives before you even start the process. Find the page that identifies the ports on the motherboard and find them on the actual motherboard. Static electricity is an overhyped risk, according to what I have seen on the internet. All you need is to work on a non-conductive work surface, and maybe touch a metal doorknob once in a while, and stand on a hard surface, not a rug or carpet which in principle might generate static electricity. Do that and stop worrying about it. Stay organized. Take things out of the box only as you need them. The last thing you need is to have your workbench cluttered with expensive components sitting around to get knocked off onto the floor, baggies of screws waiting to be knocked aside and mixed with other screws. Don't put your damned Mountain Dew on your workbench and don't eat Cheetos while you're working. 'Nuff said. Think of those ugly dollar amounts on the invoices you got in the email when you ordered parts, and don't mix assembly time with snack time. Restrict the Cheeto dust for your keyboard while you're playing arty, you worthless clicker scumbag. Check the condition of all your parts. It won't hurt to do this as they arrive, but definitely do it before you start assembling. Last thing you want to do is to get everything mostly put together, then find that the last part you need to install (probably your PSU) was somehow damaged in shipping. Then do like I said in point 5 and put them back in the box and leave them there until you actually need them. Do it. Finally, watch the following videos about how to assemble a computer. This will help you visualize the process physically.
  6. Shopping and Purchasing __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ A baker's dozen of points about shopping for and purchasing what you need based on what people who know more than me had to say, and my personal experiences with the process: Set a budget. Actually, set two prices; a target price and a no-bullshit price that you consider a ceiling. I hit my no-bullshit ceiling price and exceeded it by around $25, which I can live with. Use https://pcpartpicker.com/ to find parts. The site will help narrow the field down by letting you select based on criteria, and will warn you of incompatibilities as well as estimate power requirements based on your build. However, while the site will let you know which retailers have the cheapest prices, some retailers don't make their shipping prices available to it, and some of them can get steep; SuperBiiz often has the cheapest part prices listed on PCPartPicker's site while having the highest shipping charges, making it look like the best option when it is not. I recommend you stick with a well-known retailer, however, when it comes to actually buying the parts. I bought absolutely everything involved from Amazon (I have access to Amazon Prime for free two day shipping) and NewEgg, except for picking up the SSD at a Best Buy retail store; also, Best Buy will match the prices of competitors, including some online competitors. If you find the monitor you want or SSD or keyboard or whatever at Best Buy and it's cheaper online, go ahead and pick it up at Best Buy and show them the competitor's price on your phone; no reason to order that part online. RAM is cheap; go ahead and get plenty. Get an SSD for fast booting and to install any games where you really want fast load times. Only the stuff you need to load fast, though; SSD space is expensive. 250 GB is probably enough unless you're rich as Croesus. (Obscure classical reference inserted to let you know I'm really smart and educated. Honest.) 1TB will probably do for an HDD for most people. My advice is, go with Western Digital rather than Seagate. I have no hard numbers to back it up, but while debating WD versus Seagate I ran across tons of cases of people saying they had had bad experiences with Seagate drives dying. Some of this may have been people repeating things they merely heard, but given that both brands cost about the same and WD has no such reputation, there's no reason not to go with WD. Stick with a 7200 rpm drive, and no, you probably don't need a WD Black HDD. Never skimp on the PSU - get a PSU from a well-known, quality brand with a good reputation; it's the one part that can destroy your entire computer and literally start a fire if it's junk. Even with the CPU fan, if it dies completely your CPU is designed to shut down when overheating before temps get high enough to actually damage it, from what I understand. Don't go overboard and get 800W if you don't need that; 500W is supposedly enough for most gaming computers. Go with fully modular and 80+ Bronze rated. The GPU is the part you probably want to pick first, as it is the component whose performance has the most noticeable effect on your games. Setting aside monitors, the GPU is also going to be the most or second most expensive component you buy in the entire thing. As @Folterknecht said, the most important factor here is the resolution you're going to be using; 1080p is one thing, 4K takes essentially four times as much effort. Check benchmarks for various cards playing various games at various resolutions; google is your friend here. Don't go with SLI or Crossfire for a new build in most cases, although I have been told some games seem to require a multi-card setup to play well. Do the research. The CPU is the part you want to pick next, and is the other part that will be the most or second most expensive item you will buy. At the moment I see no reason not to go with Kaby Lake; the Skylake equivalents just won't save you enough money to bother with not getting Kaby Lake. Processors with a K suffix can be overclocked, so don't bother spending the $$$ to get an unlocked K model unless you intend to overclock. The motherboard you need will be based on the CPU you choose. There are other factors as well; make sure you get a motherboard with USB 3.0 support, sufficient PCIe slots for your purposes, and (if you think you will need it in the future) Crossfire or SLI compatibility. You can probably go with the micro-ATX form factor; most people are unlikely to need a full ATX board. Make sure your board is compatible with the chipset for your chosen CPU. Get a heatsink from a reputable manufacturer and stick with air cooling unless you're sinking a metric ton of money into a very hot (literally and figuratively) gaming system which might require liquid cooling. You are not only unlikely to need liquid cooling systems, you are also unlikely to need a high-end heatsink-fan combo. According to Logical Increments you can simply use the stock CPU cooler which comes with the CPU, although these sometimes run a little louder when things get hot due to higher fan speeds. I got a HSF from a well-known brand for $14 for my $1,000 system, and it works just fine - very cool, and absolutely silently. I cannot conceive of how much money you would have to sink into a computer to make the more expensive HSFs necessary, much less a liquid cooling system. If you're in a money pinch, go ahead and use the stock HSF and buy an aftermarket one later - but if a $14 component is an issue, you probably need to rethink your budget or your build as a whole. Get a case from a reputable manufacturer, and most likely stick with a mid tower; you are unlikely to actually need a full tower case. Do full towers have the best airflow? Probably, due to having room for the largest number of fans. Are you likely to need that much airflow? Not unless you are sinking tons of money into the computer, and/or running 2+ extremely hot graphics cards. I was very sensitive to cooling because of my bad experience with a (overstuffed with insufficient cooling) laptop, but the fact is that unless you are getting a very high-end GPU and running more than one, you will have plenty of ventilation with a mid-tower with only a single stock fan. That is exactly what I am running, with zero heat issues. Be sure the case you want is compatible with the size of motherboard you need. Also, be aware that some mid towers can be about as tall as some full towers; if you have a desk with limited height available due to a shelf above it, be sure and take measurements and pay attention to the listed sizes for cases. If you want to install an optical drive, make sure to get a case with at least one 5.25" bay. Read reviews of cases. Finally, don't over-buy your case. Every $$$ you spend on a case is $$$ you could have spent on a component that actually affects your performance. Don't buy a crap case, but do buy a modest but quality case that meets your needs. All of that notwithstanding - somebody who has $100 in their budget for a case, please buy a Phantom 410 in red and post photos. That case has serious sex appeal, no matter what @Folterknecht has to say about it. Help me live vicariously. When buying Windows 10, you can just get the Home version. Also, look for Windows keys on Kinguin. Very cheap, meaning about $25, and from what I found out by googling, they seem to be legit. They reportedly do look into where their sellers (you buy things from a seller; Kinguin is just a marketplace website) might have gotten large numbers of keys from. At worst you are risking $25, and if somehow Windows should be deactivated at some point, you can simply buy a key at the regular price and quickly reactivate it. It's worth the gamble and so far as I can tell you are not contributing to piracy. Saved me a bundle of $$$.
  7. Thanks. It's working quite well, thankfully. Getting ready to edit the OP and turn this into a see-how-the-sausage-is-made bit for other people who are thinking about building a computer for the first time. I'm sure I had a zillion retard questions that they're thinking too. I'll be sure to credit you and others with saving a rookie some $$$.
  8. Everything works well, side panels went on last night before I went to bed. Aaaand because no good thing happens without at least some minor bad thing to adjust the karmic scales, the rubber ring on my mouse wheel just started peeling off:
  9. XD I did GPT already. 1TB drive. Reformat as the other? EDIT: Never mind, I googled a bit and I'm just gonna stick with GPT.