Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'armor'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Posting Place
    • News and Announcements
    • Newbie Palace and New Users Introductions
    • Shenanigans
    • Patron Plaza
    • Ask Me Anything
  • Purple Player Interaction Centre
    • Casual Purple
    • Ask a Purple Poaster
    • Purple Poaster Replay Place
  • Serious-Face Enabled Discussions
    • Core Skills & Mechanics Discussion
    • Metagame Discussion
    • People, Platoons and Pwning
    • Vehicles
    • Upcoming Changes Discussion
    • Mathematics Corner
  • Improvement and Study
    • Mentor Meet-up
    • Tape Study
    • Articles
    • Tanks Media
  • Clam Rivalry and Posturing
    • Clam Wars Recruitment
    • [NA] The Drama Llama says: WTF Subversions?
    • [EU] Professional Pro Gamering: stronk tenks and stronk taktiks
    • [SEA] Low Server Population Clam Wars Edition
  • Related Games
    • World of Warships
    • World of Warplanes
    • World of Tanks Console
    • World of Tanks Blitz
    • Armored Warfare
    • War Thunder
  • The Archive
    • Garbage Can

Blogs

  • Never's Blog
  • Melol's Blog
  • Melol's Blog
  • bjshnog's Game Dev Blog
  • TayTay's Diary
  • DROPLET'S SHITPOAST LAND OF OBJ.140 AND PADDING/CANCER
  • Noobs corner
  • Evelyn's Biting Corner
  • Dire's Blog
  • Constie's Awesome Adventures
  • Deft Penk Hidey Hole
  • blerg
  • Mundane Things
  • Majestic's Blog
  • WoTLabs Blog
  • German fanboy sperg blog thingy
  • A cheesy blog
  • Kuroi's Clubhouse
  • B-log
  • Ollie Tabooger's House Of Buttpiracy
  • vonblogger
  • _Clickers Blog of Rando Things
  • Blog name *
  • The_Illusi0nist's Blog
  • Shitposting With Skittles
  • rojo180's Blog
  • Tomhwk's Titillating Teal Time
  • how do i use a Kv2 effectively when teamates refuse to help me in WOT?
  • my blob
  • my blog
  • Shoe's Blog
  • Grumpy fail purple siema player is here
  • No Bullshit Reviews
  • The Journey
  • Sigh...
  • Reports of a beginner
  • CSI: Chinese Server Insanity
  • Hallo1994: Simply, Me
  • Wanderjar's Notebook blog
  • My journey to being a better player

Categories

  • World of Tanks
    • Tank Reviews
    • Strategies
    • Videos
    • Mods
  • Game Theory

Found 13 results

  1. KB-4, the bunker (with tracks and a engine) Since there is no KV-4 topic on wotlabs yet and it does get tons of hate. Here it is: A topic for this awesum 107 ton masterpiece of soviet engineering! Overal: The KV4 is the first true super-heavy tank combining massive weight, thick all-round armor, a powerfull gun and dreadfull speed in 1 package. The most redeeming factors of the KV4 are its size and massive weight (and armor). At 107 ton it is: - 7 tons heavier as an KV-5 - 15 tons heavier as an E75 - 22 tons lighter as an E100 - 2x heavier an IS-3 Only the Maus and E100 beiing heavier, while it weights almost 2x more as most `normal` tanks... This thing is huge and heavy, all the weight is because its huge and it has tons of (side) armor. The armor: This is where the KV4 trully shines, the KV4 is by far the thoughest tier 8 tank, easy surpassing KV5, KT, T28 and Proto in terms of thoughness in large part due to its amazing side armor, 150mm flat side armor (upper half) or 130mm covered by 20mm track armor. Unagled a KV4 has thus 150mm armor This means that an KV4 has after E100 and Maus the best side armor of the game (KV5 is technically better, but its riddled with weakspots so nobody shoots the hull...) values below are for the 130mm side armor, the part above the track is in general a bit stronger as the numbers below Angle: 70 65 60 55 50 Armor against AP: 328 280 247 222 204 Armor against APCR: 367 306 265 236 214 Armor against HEAT: 576 470 400 351 316 So even when angled 55 deg its sides are still an impressive 220 vs AP while at 65 deg its virtually immuum to anything but tier 10 TDs and high tier APCR shells. Its front armor is really thick, 180mm, but minimal sloping (google says 30 deg seems a bit high, but ok), however, it does get the autobounce plate and because of the small sloping, angling become much more effective. Compare 180mm 0 deg backwards and 30 deg sideways = 199 vs AP with 180mm 30 deg backwards and 30 deg sideways = 224 vs AP This means that an KV4, standing in the open, can angle about 55 deg and become immuum too 200 pen guns (front is 234, side above track 233, side below tracks 222) When angling this way, an IS6 with APCR can not penetrate the KV-4 hull, front becomes 245 while sides are 249 / 236 The major weakness lies in its turret armor, while the turret itself is actually quite though compared to many same tier vehicles, its still weakish, it does have a few nice features: - it has a thick mantle, overlapping partial with underlieing armor (90mm thick), making it immuum to HEAT and ~270 effective vs AP(CR) - the `weakspot` on top is 180mm - the turret face is mostly 180mm but spherical, making it ~210mm effective on the curved parts - the side are 150mm and steep angled backwards, meaning just like an E75, the turret is also when angled a little is still realy though It does have a weak turret ring though and people who know where to shoot can and will penetrate the turret fairly easy TL:DR armor wise the KV4 is an absolute brute, guns with less as 200mm pen will find an KV4 very hard to penetrate in almost any situation while premium tanks like KV5, IS6 or Super pershing will need to shoot gold (and even then IS6 and KV5 will strugle A LOT). When a KV4 can sidescrape and (paritally) hide its turret front its almost unkillable Firepower: TL:DR: Firepower wise an KV4 is above average, while no KT or IS3, the combination of superior penetration and better accuracy off-set the the bad aim time and lowish dpm, giving it firepower wise an edge over tanks like the T32 and VK-A (especially against though targets or on long range) Mobility: short and simple: bad How to equip: (my own equipment and crew): Crew: - repair, repair, repair, you are sidescraping all the time so get detracked all the time 5x 100% repair skill is minimum - 6e sense (obvious) - driving skills, off-road to compensate terrible passiblity and clutch braking to slightly buf awefull turning speed - gun handling skills, because the on the move accuracy is mostly bad because of bloom stats and not because of accuracy / mobility depends the 2 gun handling skills make a nice (positive) difference For the rest it doesnt matter, i went with safe-stowage / adrenaline rush (both usefull)all other perks dont matter much. If you have a 4e skill crew, re-training to BIA is highly adviced, but since mine is only 50% 3e skill its too early to retrain yet (i myself will retrain once they hit 40% 4e skill, assuming i will play KV4 and KV5 some more next weeks / months this should be doable) Consumables: - prem fire extinghuisher, this thing burns, a lot, so it needs it (KV`s are burning even more as Panther or Tigers...) - rep / first aid, im cheap so i use basic, but prem is ofc always better Ammo: Some HE (3) for Waffles and 10 APCR for tier 10 fights, the rest (37) AP, AP is good enough for almost anything, Equipment: - Rammer (obivous) - V-Stab (obvious) - Vents, KV4 can really use a small dpm / aim time / mobility buff, using optics on a KV4 is idiotic and GLD simply offers to little (the mobility and dpm are bigger problems as the aim time) if you dont want vents, its GLD, but vents is plain and simple better How to play: My stats after 200 games: Some replays (played only 10 or so games with 9.3): - Ruinberg, sidescraping vs IS8 and some tier 8 heavys, initially i hang back a little, when i see middle road is taken and the enemy KV4 doesnt push, i go forward and block 4 enemy tanks, stopping them, team overruns rest of the map and simple win http://wotreplays.com/site/1292777#self - Live oaks, i rush village, sidescrape vs IS7, kill Panther II, go back to base and fairly easy win (went back a bit too late though) http://wotreplays.com/site/1292703#self - Kharkov, i go with a few weakish tanks to the circle, with gold spam i manage to stop an advancing VK-P and some tier 8 after that i just `block` them, my team wins on the rest of the map and easy win (i deal almost no dmg and basically just sit there, i still contributed to the win though)(also ISU assault gun, leading from the front, yolo) http://wotreplays.com/site/1292733#self - Again Kharkov, tier 10 fight, same as previous, this time E100 and E75, but they also refuse to attack me http://wotreplays.com/site/1292757#self edit: fixed broken link
  2. I was out of town when the test server started and have been busy with school. Since it's not much, I cooked up a little thread on the HD model changes for this upcoming patch. USSR Tetrarch +View ports are no longer weakspots +Suspension parts now cannot cause HP damage Verdict: Still paper SU-76i +Small spaced armor strip added in front of driver's slit +Thickest part of mantlet is 55mm (+5mm) +Superstructure joint thickness are more detailed +No hull protrusion for front wheel +View ports are no longer weakspots -Sloped 50mm part of lower plate is 55° (-4°) ~Gun mount shape changed ~Rear hull shape changed Verdict: Definitely a buff. Not huge, but will be tougher versus same tier and lower guns. SU-85i +Small spaced armor strip added in front of driver's slit +Majority of cupola is 90mm (+60mm) +Superstructure joint thickness are more detailed +No hull protrusion for front wheel +View ports are no longer weakspots +Spare tracks on front hull (+5mm) +Mantlet is 60mm (+10mm) -Sloped 50mm part of lower plate is 55° (-4°) ~Rear hull shape changed Verdict: Once again, improved a little, but not enough to make a real difference. Cupola buff may be nice though KV-2 +Doors on turret rear, MG ports, and view ports are no longer weakspots +Side parts of mantlet along gun barrel are 50mm (+20mm) +Shape of gun mount on stock turret changed +Smaller 0 armor hole behind mantlet on both turrets +Area to the sides of top turret gun mount are 90mm (+15mm) -Upper rear hull is 50mm (-10mm) -Middle front plate is 65° (-6°) -Seam between middle and lower plate is 65mm/100mm (-50mm/-15mm) Verdict: The autobounce plate isn't quite autobounce anymore, though the upper plate and turret are a little bit tougher. SU-122-44 +Small strip below mantlet is 140mm (+30mm) +Cupola is smaller +Roof of gun mount and front hull periscope are 90mm (+75mm) -0 armor hull behind mantlet is wider -Lower hull side no longer has an angle at the hull floor Verdict: Mantlet nerf isn't huge, but you'll get more pens there now. I haven't played WoT enough lately to say, but if there is a net difference, it might be a small nerf. Germany Pz.Sfl. IVb +Rear turret is 19.5mm (+5mm) +Minor change to hull rear Verdict: Basically nothing Pz.Sfl. IVc +Spare tracks on LFP (+10mm) Verdict: Basically nothing VK 28.01 +Cupola shape on top turret changed (shorter+round) +Spare tracks on rear side hull (+10mm) +0 armor hole behind mantlet is smaller -LFP is 45° (-5°) Verdict: Basically nothing, but might be a tiny bit better Sturer Emil +Spare tracks on LFP (+15mm) Verdict: Basically nothing France B1 ~Shape of top gun's mantlet slightly changed Like the German B2, without the spare tracks on the front hull Verdict: A tiny bit better Lorraine 40 t +Some flat parts of turret front are 70mm (+25mm through +40mm) +LFP is 60° (+7°) -Cupola is 30mm (-15mm) -Front turret is 53° (~-10° through -20°) -Upper hull side is 30mm (-10mm) -Rear hull is entirely 25mm (-5mm) -Driver's hatch is 28mm (-12mm) Verdict: Won't be as good at getting lucky bounces UK Conqueror Gun Carriage +Gun entirely changed (larger, no exposed 0 armor hole) +Roof above gun is 50.8mm (+19mm) -Spaced armor above tracks removed -UFP is 130mm (-22.4mm) -177.8mm beak removed Verdict: UFP won't troll as hard
  3. Thread used to be pretty bare bones, but I'm making a thing for RSR, so may as well post it here early. Through my benevolence, I have made a 9.16 armor change thing despite no longer playing the game. Once again, tweaked the format a little. I've split the changes for each tank into nerfs, buffs, and neutral changes. Sometimes, a tank may only have buffs and a neutral change or whatever, but I'm sure you're all smart enough to figure out what is what. If you're not, then that's on you and I don't love you. I didn't really look at stock turrets. Never fucked up multiple spoilers in the same post somehow, so I'm just posting the text to save space. Screencaps of all of the new armor models can be found in this album Changes in here:
  4. Same deal as usual. I'll look at all the new HD models and point out the changes. Lots of tanks get those little bumps for wheels removed when made HD, so I'll ignore that in most cases. Too lazy to say how the tracks changed (as in they get gaps in them or something). General size of the tank is ignored in most cases too. I'll probably be less detailed on paper thin tanks in the future like I have this time. I have my little thoughts at the end of each list of tank changes. Soviets Germany (this text won't bold for some reason ) America The small countries I probably forgot some. I didn't notice any changes to the StuG III
  5. Keep your panties on tight, since this is going into more detail than you ever asked for. I know a lot of this is already known, but it's not up to my saucy standards. I'm doing it a bit different this time, and only checking for angle changes where it might be able to cause some sort of change. I'll be skipping a lot of the tiny things on some of these tanks, just because so much got changed. I added my thoughts on each. Whether or not you agree with my conclusions, it'll at least help convey the size of the change. I've sadly been replacing the misery of WoT with pretending to have a life, hence the delay. Gamemodels3d could have been a bit faster on leaking the ST client too. France Germanyland Japan British Vehicles America USSR If you've got question, ask them.
  6. When tankers speak of the IS-3, I often see them talk about it being the King of tier 8 heavies, Great armor, a great gun, just in general a strong tank. I have a problem with this. I got the IS-3, obviously coming from the IS which I liked quite a bit. Blasting people around corners, not expecting many bounces, the usual. Disclaimer, I don't have the BL-9 gun, but it's not the having the fight tier 10s in a heavy with 175mm of pen that's the issue. It's the armor. . . I don't see it work. Time after time I see shots from tier 7s and tier 8s just go right through my upper frontal plate, the part of the armor I want to be able to rely on but can't. People don't even have to aim for my lower plate under the pike, they go through my toughest armor like butter. Of course, this could all be because I'm playing the tank based on it's fearsome reputation when I should be playing it like the IS and the KV-1S pre-change, but everything I've heard seems to contradict that. So I pose the question in the title again. What am I doing wrong? Why does every shot, no matter how well I try to side-scrape or angle, easily pen what should be the hardest part of my tank to go through? P.S. I'm new to this site. I've heard good things about the expertise on here and come humbly to learn. P.P.S. I also see this problem with the E75, which is supposed to be armored to the teeth and yet T30s can penetrate my lower plate at a 45 degree angle while shooting down at me. What the balls is up with that nonsense?
  7. Or is it 9.11. Fuck if I can remember. Here's what I see so far looking off of gamemodels3d.com. I'm just looking at armor thicknesses and slopes. You've got the visual models to compare sizes and shit. I don't have the time for that too. Soviets Nazis Americans French Brits
  8. I was watching replays last night and reading articles. I angle my WZ 111 1-4. I over angle my German tanks. I don't play hull down correctly. How the hell did I never hit purple overall. Jesus christ. Everyone that suffers from survival problems, you need to go read this guide on things I was doing wrong. I feel so much shame.
  9. Question: Which tier 6 and 8 play as an actual heavy (not heavium) as bottom tier? (if any) 'Brute': Fairly reliable protection or good at trading. Regardless of tier. Tier 7 = T29 Tier 9 = ST-I, E75, vk45.02B Tier 10 = Ehundo, IS7 'Heavium': Will trollbounce / brawl but don't really want to expose against higher tiers. Tier 6: KV85 Tier 8: IS3 Tier 9: Wz 111111-1/4 Tier 6: - T150: Armor towards higher tiers when sidescraping? - KV-2: Sufficient alpha (AP+ or HE) to forget armor due to trading well? - ARL 105: Turret too bad to play with heavies? Tier 8: - Tiger II: Suffers versus tier 9-10 armor wise? Can't trade? - KV4: Turret too soft? Can't trade? - 110: How good is the armor? Heavium role as bottom tier? Can't trade? - JPII: Superstructure but too situational / mantlet and no turret? - T32: Too situational / boom not sufficient?
  10. Although frowned upon by many commanders during wartime due to unnecesary wear and tear on transmissions and suspensions due to the extra weight, many tankers added improvosed armor to thier vehicles form WWI to modern day battlefeilds out of necesity in may cases. According to some these modes of extra protetion actually proved detrimental to the tanks actual protective armor capabilities. Many tankers response was - 'what good is the extra x miles of service life on the transmission or suspension if we get blown up in the first 50 miles?' We've all see pictures of tanks and AFV's with sandbags, helmets, and pieces of track hung or welded on the exterior; I even saw pictures somewhere of a StuGIII with logs and dirt on it to bolster its defenses. Some of the notable earlier examples of spaced armor were on the German PzIII, PzIV and some of the TDs like the StuGII and JgPzIV during WWII. iirc the American Jumbo Sherman was basically an up-armored Sherman with a heavier transmission which was factory produced and many others being field upgrades of existing Shermans with steel cannibalized from derelict tanks and such. I am sure there are other examples as well. In the Wars in Iraq and Afghanistan homemade uparmoring was referred to as Hillbilly Armor and primarily used as protection from IEDs. In Game several tanks have integral spaced armor like the PzIVH for example. Would allowing applique/up-armored/bolted on and/or add on spaced armor be workable in WOT as peices of optional equipment or would it be too complicated with the armor modeling layouts?
  11. I was suprised not to find such a thread here, so I'll make my own. I made these calculations some time ago, but now that i can't sleep I might as well make a thread. Feel free to point out mistakes, inaccurate phrasing and such and also to give advice for future posts and additions to this one. What is this about? I will show you how you can calculate how much your tank needs do be angled in order to provide max protection on both side and frontal armour. Even though you won't be able to angle your tank at exactly 38,66° ingame, it can still provide a rough idea of how much a tank can and should be angled. I'll also give you some examples at the end. The mathematics will be put into spoilers for those who are interested (even though there is not much and pretty simple maths). In the computer-written text I'll use x instead of alpha and y instead of beta, bc it's easier. Variables Boxy tanks For box-shaped tanks such as the Tiger I, KV-5 rear or the DW2 (unfortunately not many more) you can use a simplified formula. x=arctan(T s /Tf) Sloped tanks Tanks such as the Tiger II, E-75, Foch, ... (Basically everything except for pikenose tanks, which you usually don't angle at all). This formula also works for the above-mentioned box-shaped tanks. You usually want to use the weakest part of the armour (for example the E75's lower plate, not the upper plate. x=arctan(T s /(Tf/cos(y))) Consider that - these formulas only work at larger distances and not in close combat - your tank has tracks that count as spaced armour, that gives you some adiddtional protection (especially against HEAT/HE) - you generally don't want the enemy to pen your sidearmour because your engine/ammorack/fuel tanks can get damaged/destroyed much more easily Examples Tiger I Edit: I am not continuing this post as it bacame obsolete. There are ways to figure it out without using a calculator - espacially Tank Inspector ( http://tankinspector.sinaapp.com/ ) . Back when I made these calculations Tank Inspector did not exist. At least you now know how these calculations are made.
  12. So, I picked up my E3 last week and have just started the process of getting comfortable with the tank. It's a beast and I'm so thankful that the speed is better than the T95! Let's have a look at the armor profile: So in reviewing the armor you need to protect your lower front plate while keeping your front forward. The side armor isn't amazing so you can't really use a deep angle. There are a couple of tiny weak spots available frontally if the LFP is hidden, but they are quite small and difficult to hit. The 155mm gun is pretty good and it loads APCR as its premium ammo which favors the current game mechanics and a rate of fire of 3.28 rounds per minute. The alpha and penetration are high enough to be serviceable against nearly any opponent. AP APCR HE 850hp 850hp 1100hp 295pen 375pen 90pen Need to get some more time in this tank so I can start to enjoy it as much as I do my Object 268. Even though it's significantly faster than the T95, at 24km/h it's taking me a bit to get used to compared to my other Tier 10 TDs (268 and 155) because it cannot flex as well. Initial map positioning is quite different than a camo TD and once you commit to a flank you're sorta stuck there. Will be on the lookout for good replays that demonstrate strong initial map positioning in this tank. Will be downloading some from here: http://www.noobmeter.com/tank/na/T110E3 I've also been going through some recordings on Endo's stream. I just put a postit note over his webcam to make it possible.
  13. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/228710-anatomy-of-a-capture-defense/). Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/304916-lerts-guide-to-being-the-invisitank-camouflage-and-spotting-basics/) How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/284733-lerts-guide-to-picking-your-fights/) You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/159638-lerts-thread-of-duh-or-mspaint-schematics-explaining-gameplay-basics/) Tank selection(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/251985-about-vehicle-types-roles-and-playstyle/) There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/273627-lerts-guides-to-shells-shell-types-and-shell-mechanics/) There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/212496-why-the-famed-center-rush-is-usually-a-monumentally-moronic-idea/) This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/198457-how-to-deal-with-autoloaders/). French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT http://rocketbrainsurgeon.com/category/world-of-tanks/ http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/186917-lerts-collection-of-guides/ http://wiki.worldoftanks.com/Main_Page General hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/forum/405-survival-guide/) Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/98891-lerts-easy-tips-for-beginners/) 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check wotlabs.net for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts