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Found 23 results

  1. One more (mini) elimination thread! Main reasons for this thread are the new Swedish heavies - 3 tanks with same crew layout, but you can pick only one of them (tier 6 is so fun right now, it is a genuine keeper). Given enough time (months of crew training, especially regarding lack of good (and suitable) crew trainers, I would like to keep tiers 6&8-10 from swedes, but I am limited to one girl crew I got from holiday ops (soon to have 2, one for tier 6 and one for a heavy. Many other ppl will undoubtedly face the same choice - they can also sell the tier 6, but still have to limit themselves to 1-2 Swedish heavies (or they can go TD line, god forbid ). You can explain the reasons as to which one you can pick and why. Clan war/stronghold viability is also nice to have, but not crucial. Random battle performance (solo/platoon.reasons why) is very important. I understand that those tanks have to rely on gold to do damage in most situations, but I would not like to depend on it - that is regarding tier 9&10 due to tantalizing choice of 252 APCR/300 HEAT. reload of Emil 2 complicates correct ammo choice even more, but again, a whole tier lower, and shells are stronger...just like in Skoda`s case. Old rules apply, you increase the "best" choice by 1 and decrease the "worst" choice by 3. Each user is allowed to do this a maximum of once per day. You must explain your choices, even if very briefly. However, you can give your opinion of a tank you are neither upvoting or downvoting. When a choice hits 0, it is eliminated. I'll keep track of in what order they were eliminated in the OP, and the end result is some form of interactive community aggregate ranking! Pretty neat. Highlight your increase with GREEN and your decrease with RED. Since there is an elimination of only 3 tanks in total, tanks start with 60 points each (arbitrary from my side: but enough so enough ppl can give their opinions). Kranvagn: 60 Emil 2: 60 Emil 1: 60
  2. Hey, Something I've been asking me for quite a while is: Are extra rations, like coffee etc., always usefull (in relation to the creditcosts) or only when your crew is well skilled? For example: I'm grinding a new crew in my M46 Patton and atm I'm at the second perk. Would it be usefull to put in some Cola or would it be just a waste of credits? Thx for all the replies! P4nda
  3. Video rehosted on Flickr: https://flic.kr/p/pzeXYM Video of the Oct 10th 2014 version: Video of the Jan 11th 2015 version: Download Link: http://www.mediafire.com/download/iqnmf4863syet4q/allahu.zip Some people have expressed a preference for the previous versions of the mods so here they are: Original: http://www.mediafire.com/download/g53gqkbwlxwh20n/allahu-28Sep.zip Oct 1st 2014 version: http://www.mediafire.com/download/1i3isb7t4q7rei8/allahu-1stOct.zip Oct 10th 2014 version: http://www.mediafire.com/download/kh2pewtq5a487ej/allahu-10thOct.zip Installation instructions are in the readme file provided with the zip. I think you have to have the Standard crew voices option selected; I have not tested it with the National voices option enabled. Update 1 (1st October 2014): Added 8 new crew voices and adjusted some of the probabilities for certain sounds. E.g. fuel tank damage/anything to do with the radio/radioman don't trigger sounds anymore because it was annoying. Update 2 (10th October 2014): - Added new voices, bringing the total up to 54 unique sound files. - Reworked all the voice probabilities. - Made *most* voices unique to the event that triggered them. Update 3 (11th January 2015): - Added 10 new voice clips DISCLAIMER: This mod is a parody of extremists. It is not an attack/insult against Islam or Muslim people. It's no different from people mocking US fundamentalist Christian groups or any other extremist religious group; they are in no way, shape or form representative of the religion itself. Keep the discussion away from politics. From the forum rules:
  4. A couple of the recent Q&A's have mentioned that wg is considering changing the crew system to be like what is used in the ships game. I haven't played that, so how would that look? Also, wouldn't they face a lot of backlash from changing the current crew system when so many people have spent lots of gold on training crews?
  5. Hello, fellow tankers! I'm currently grinding my way to the T62a from the T54. I am about 120k xp away from it. Still have a long way to go but I know I will have fun along the way. I really like the T54 but I was wondering if I should move the crew to the T62a when I get it. I am close to the 2nd skills for all the crew members for my T54. But there is another option. Should I just add a female crew to the new T62a? I still plan to play my T54 because I enjoy playing it along with my M46, especially in platoons. What would you guys recommend I do? Thanks!
  6. [Romantic Bulbasaurs] ~ As the fields of green are gently caressed by the soft winds, the Bulbasaurs run wild and free~ ~ The exquisite Crew [Romantic Bulbasaurs] is ALWAYS recruiting exceptional Gangsters/Pimps/Thugs/Drug Dealers/Thieves/Escorts etc just no Rapists allowed! ~ TeamSpeak: ts101.light-speed.com:4914 Recruitment Standards: You Must Love Bulbasaur's Must Have Swag on you at all times Must be able to hold guns incorrectly If you're not Sagging You're not RBIS Material Must Dislike World of tanks Must Be Loyal "Snitches Get Stiches" Must Love to Eat Leafs You have To Love(Tolerate) All RBIS Crew Members Other Requirements: -Individual performance among Pimps/Thieves/Escorts will be reviewed and heavily weighed upon unless you are a credible, well known person. -How well you get along with other Bulbasaurs is a major factor, So Basically Don't be A Dick Cause, Ain't Nobody Got Time For That. Why Should you Join RBIS? Cause Everyone Knows Bulbasaurs Always get the Bitches As you all Can tell I had sometime on my hands the Crew is Open and anyone with an account should be able to join if you can't message me and I'll send you an invite. I'm having way too much fun making this thread if it was World of tanks I already would've Rage quit. SO JOIN [ROMANTIC BULBASAURS] TODAY!! Bulbaaaa bulba! Cause nothing can compete with Bulbasaurs were scary cute lovable gangster pimps with guns vine whip and solarbeam!! come on now that's just fucking crazy!
  7. So personally I usually leave this checked all the time. I don't convert xp and most of my better crews are working on their 3rd skill. To me it's a given. I want to try out all the skills and perks. I want to make sure my crew has all the oddball abilities that are the best for whatever tank they are driving. However in Crab's thread about all the xp bonuses this upcoming weekend I saw these comments: I thought this merited a broader discussion and didn't want to hijack that thread with it. I realize this all boils down to preference but out of curiosity I pose these questions: What is the consensus? Is it a waste of XP that folk should spend gold on? Is there number of skills/perks cut off point? Do you stop once you have whatever must have skills/perks you need for that tank are attained?
  8. Hello, all mighty unicums with your godlike knowledge from warpack. I have a question regarding Russian Medium Tank crews or medium tank crews in general, now I've seen that a lot of people say that you should take Sixth Sense, Camo, Camo, Camo, Camo < BiA, Camo, Repair, Repair, Repair, Repair. Now I've been playing Medium tanks in general not as much as I've been playing Heavy Tanks, E100 and IS-7 being my first tier 10s whilst the E50 was my second unlocked Tier 9, now I've always taken repair as first skill when it comes to crew skills because it allows you to get your tracks up faster and you don't have to waste a Repair pack on a track which just might get blown off again. So, on my T-34-85 I'm closing in on my first crew skill and I've been thinking a bit about which crew skills I should go for and a while ago when I was still working on getting my first crew skill I saw Quickybaby's videos on crew skills on all the different tank types except for SPG that is, and basically what he said was that before a certain tier it was better to take Camouflage as a crew skill because you if you get tracked you in general don't have the health to be able to repair and get out which makes Camo a more useful skill, I think he put the tier at 5 and after that it was in general better to take repairs as first skill because you have more health and you could use the Repair skill better by being able to repair your track should you get tracked, which makes repairs more useful than Camo, right? Now I know this isn't true when it comes to Light tanks which maintain their camo rating on the move and for my AMX 13 75 I've gone with Camo and Sixth Sense first. But anyway, basically I want to know whether I should take Camo for first crew skill or Repairs on my T-34-85. Also while I'm at it, I went for Sixth Sense, Repairs, Repairs, Repairs, Repairs on my A-44, should I go for Camo after I've gotten everything to 100% or should I take BiA then Camo?
  9. Crew retrain discount this weekend in SEA. I want to take advantage of that. My JPanther crew is the same crew from day 1 grinding the line, close to 2 skills, 100% camo. JPanther camo is not stellar by all standards, and I found I'm doing more and more mid range fight in it with 105mm rather than snipe from a far. Map changes had contributed a lot to that too. However I still had many times no one able to spot me even I was expecting be lighted up, which surprised me that it still has reasonable camo if trained 100% Another point to be considered is when I bring the crew forward to JP2, repair+gun/drive skills seems a good forward planning. Thought ?
  10. So i wanted to know how effective the levels of a crew's training are. For Example, the loader's level effects how fast you reload but does a 100% trained loader give you 10% faster reload speed than someone with a 90% loader?
  11. I've searched around and wiki'ed, but I'm not quite sure if I get it. Does it only works for the targets you spot yourself (or could have spotted if not previously spotted by someone else), or does it work even for targets spotted by others, outside your spotting range, but are targeted by you? The wiki seems to suggest the latter:
  12. I'm sure you all noticed that after moving crews from tier 5-6s into tier 7-8s and up, many radio operators are left "unemployed"... I have accumulated so far 3 soviet radiomen, one with 2 skills, and I have no idea what to do with them (I don't want to buy a KV5 ;-). I will soon have a few from other nations as well... I haven't dismissed them yet them because I keep hearing about possibility to retrain major qualification in some future patch, does anyone know more precise info about this? Other than that, is there any clever way to use them? My barracks are starting to become crowded...
  13. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/228710-anatomy-of-a-capture-defense/). Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/304916-lerts-guide-to-being-the-invisitank-camouflage-and-spotting-basics/) How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/284733-lerts-guide-to-picking-your-fights/) You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/159638-lerts-thread-of-duh-or-mspaint-schematics-explaining-gameplay-basics/) Tank selection(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/251985-about-vehicle-types-roles-and-playstyle/) There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/273627-lerts-guides-to-shells-shell-types-and-shell-mechanics/) There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/212496-why-the-famed-center-rush-is-usually-a-monumentally-moronic-idea/) This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/198457-how-to-deal-with-autoloaders/). French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT http://rocketbrainsurgeon.com/category/world-of-tanks/ http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/186917-lerts-collection-of-guides/ http://wiki.worldoftanks.com/Main_Page General hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/forum/405-survival-guide/) Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/98891-lerts-easy-tips-for-beginners/) 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check wotlabs.net for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts
  14. Hi everyone. My M46 is one of my most played tanks, and by far my most experienced crew. I have played them since they were 50%. Now they are almost finished with thier 3rd skill. But I have a problem. I am still really new to the whole 'crew perk' thing. I fear that I may have chosen the wrong skills/perks for my crew. However, I am looking for some help to either tell me what an idiot I am for choosing these, or for ultimate praise in my choices! These are my buddies: (I play this tank really really aggressively.) So, are these good skills? If not, what should I retrain? Thanks!
  15. Situation: I'm "grinding" my T-54 and recently got enough xp to unlock either the 140 or 62A. I do however want to keep my T-54 for all eternity, since it's simply way too good and fits my playstyle well. Do I move my crew to tier 10 and start a new crew on my T-54, or do the opposite and start a new crew at tier 10? I guess I third option could be to play through the A-43, 44 and 416 to train another crew at lower tiers. What are your techniques for starting new crews, specifically when you want to keep a tank and continue moving up tiers? Playing without Sixth Sense makes me sad, especially tier 8+.
  16. Ok, I've done a little searching and I think I have this right, but before I sink a bunch of time into something I wanted to pose the question here in case someone more knowledgeable has a correction. I have been working on the Russian medium line (current about 70k XP shy of the T-54) with the plan to eventually unlock and purchase both the T-62A and the Obj140. I plan to keep transferring my crew as I move up the line with my current T-44 crew ending up in one of the tier 10s. However, I will need a crew for the other tier 10 and maybe for the T-54 if I decide to keep/rebuy it. I just bought the IS-6 today (I know the discounts were crap but I've been wanting the IS-6/KV-5 for a while and I got the KV-220 for free, woot) and so I was wondering if I can train crews in the IS-6 and gold transfer them to the mediums. They both have 4 crew and I know you can go medium<->heavy because I did it with the German line (VK to Tiger) but I did notice one difference. In the medium line, the Loader is also the Radio Operator where as in the IS-6 crew, the Commander is also the Radio Operator. Will this make the crews incompatible? I can understand that I wouldn't be able to transfer a Radio Operator specific perk (i.e. Situational Awareness) but should they transfer okay otherwise? Sorry if this is a noob question but I didn't want to get too far with the plan only to find that I couldn't transfer the crew. Thanks!
  17. So I bought an M6 and the crew are at 100%, and I don't know which perks/skills I should put on each member. Also, I'm probably going to keep the crew for the T29. Any recommendations?
  18. Question is - When you need a new crew for the next tier tank but intend to keep current one or use the current crew elsewhere, do you train it all at once or one or two members at once? Point is to keep your tank at least with half decent crew and train the rest and then change it or is it useless? Like keep decent gunner with sixth sense on commander and train loader and then keep decent loader, driver and train commander. For example I like my E-75 and intend to keep it and play it. Starting E-100 crew form a scratch would make that tank perform bad or at least worse. So far I usually put current crew to next tier to compensate for nonresearched modules and made a new one for current tank. Or at lower tiers I simply created a new one. I am curious if there is a better way. So unicums, how do you do this? TLDR Train new crew all at once or one/two by one/two?
  19. Hey y'all, So my VK 3601 H has my highest XP crew, I would prefer to keep them in the German Medium Line for the E-50 and E-50M. I'm not ready move up to tier 9, and my Panther already has a good crew on it. I don't want this crew to be retrained to the German Heavy line. I'll have to retrain them on to something, but what? Cheers, -j.
  20. Basically, out of all the tanks in the game, I can't think of any being as dependent on the first skill as light tanks. Without sixth sense on the commander and camo on everything else, it's hard to avoid getting outspotted on a lot of maps against higher tiers, except for those with great bushes. Doubly so after the 8.6 camo nerfs, which disfavor high-camo tanks (scouts) and favor high-viewrange tanks (higher tiers). This is an especially big issue for those who suck at light tanks (like me) and need every advantage they can get. The question is - where do you get this crew? Is there a preferred tank that you guys like to train your first skill on? Do you retrain a heavy/medium/TD into a light? Do you retrain a seal clubbing light? Do you just do your best to make the scout work without a proper crew? Or do you do something else?
  21. I've greatly enjoyed its predecessedors, the T69 and especially the T54E1. As I had the T57 Heavy already researched now for a while I bought it during the current sale (on EUW). How would you skill a 3.5 skills crew? I thought about: Commander: BIA, 6th Sense, Repair, x? (x=recon?) Gunner: BIA, Repair, designated target?, snap shot?, deadeye? Driver: BIA, clutch braking, repair. offroad? smooth ride? Loader: BIA, safe stowage, repair. camo? fire fighting? Along with: vert, gld, vents Thanks so much in advance!
  22. So I have a E2 crew (my only USA crew) which I use for SP, and it has 6th sense / BIA / Repairs (60%) However, I have decided to go up the E5 line, which is a heavy tank line. Should I start with a completely new crew (0 skill), or should I retrain my E2 crew to the heavy line? I'm stuck between being gimped if I have 0 skills on a T7 tank (T29) or being unable to farm credits efficiently (SP is my credit farming tank; I need the repairs at least). Any input is much appreciated
  23. First of all, I discovered this forum yesterday and already read and learned a ton. Thanks so much everyone of you. BTT: I am not a 100% sure about my crew's skills and the equipment for the T69. Equipment reads as follows: Vertical Stabilizer, GLD, Vents (should i switch Vents with optics?) My crew is at 75% of the 3rd skill and picked so far are: Commander: BIA, Sixth Sense, Sit Aw. Gunner: BIA, Snap Shot, Rep Driver: BIA, Smooth Ride, Clutch Loader: BIA, Rep, Camo Are these skills well picked? I have often read that most(?) of you prefer Off Road over Smooth Ride, is this the case for the T69 as well? One last thing: My perception is that a T69 does not catch fire often . Would it then be better to switch extinguisher with a large rep kit? Would cola be even better? Thank you so much in advance!