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Found 21 results

  1. For all that ended up grinding through the swamp that was ranked, what did you end up spending your bonds on? Obviously, the equipment isn't insane enough to warrant massive changes in tanks but it'd be cool to see what everyone bought. I personally got a rammer and put it on my 113 to mark. Extra DPM is pretty dope I suppose.
  2. This is my setup for it. It fits my playing style of vision control orientated combat. I have not found the lack of repair to be too big of a problem since Bat's track repair speed is very fast. Below are some pointers I gave to rrw that I'll repost here as well. Don't be the one that enemy have attention on i.e. don't stay spotted for extended periods of time, always drop lights after engagement. You're #1 target on the field and you don't want to let them know where you're stuck at so they can rush you.Always have an exit route before you start an engagement. You're a Bat, you get to pick the engagement 99% of the time.You should never drive into a situation, shoot your 5 shots, and say to yourself "shit, now what?". At the end of your 5th shot, shit around you should be dead or you're driving around a corner where they can't chase you.Ideally you don't want to engage your own targets but ones that are looking away or distracted. I do make exceptions when it's key target.At between 350 to 400 meters, you can spot your own target and usually not be spotted while shooting.Stay on the move during reload, especially right after you get a kill, because people will see that you got a kill and try to get you during reload. Use reload time to scout.Relocate as often as possible between clips if that flank doesn't have opportunities. From the view of the enemy, they should see you teleporting all over the map. Your first shot of the clip should be aimed in from stealth - do not start the engagement when people see you and gun pointed at your direction, unless they're hurt tanks of very good players that you need to soak up a shot to take out of the game.Try to track+damage with first shot (shoot front/rear sprockets).Flank as much as possible. You can frontally engage lower tier after they fire, but it's best to flank 10s.Vert stab, Vents, optics.You can peek a boo with this tank (wait til they fire, poke out and unload 2-3 rounds), but it takes a while to master and is not recommended for beginners. Your HP is the most valuable of the team, conserve them as much as possible. It's very tempting to take a hit from an 8 and clip him, and I do it often, but it really should be avoided. You're the most powerful tank at late game where tanks are thin and damaged.Do NOT start a close quarter engagement with a full HP tier 9/10 medium if you have the choice.Most importantly, scout like this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otc3_hnSLsE I guess I'll host Bat replays here instead of my replay thread. As mentioned, I'm very heavily camo and vision orientated when playing my Bat, and you'll see that from my replays. These are in chronological orders. 8.9 8.10 8.11 9.0
  3. One more (mini) elimination thread! Main reasons for this thread are the new Swedish heavies - 3 tanks with same crew layout, but you can pick only one of them (tier 6 is so fun right now, it is a genuine keeper). Given enough time (months of crew training, especially regarding lack of good (and suitable) crew trainers, I would like to keep tiers 6&8-10 from swedes, but I am limited to one girl crew I got from holiday ops (soon to have 2, one for tier 6 and one for a heavy. Many other ppl will undoubtedly face the same choice - they can also sell the tier 6, but still have to limit themselves to 1-2 Swedish heavies (or they can go TD line, god forbid ). You can explain the reasons as to which one you can pick and why. Clan war/stronghold viability is also nice to have, but not crucial. Random battle performance (solo/platoon.reasons why) is very important. I understand that those tanks have to rely on gold to do damage in most situations, but I would not like to depend on it - that is regarding tier 9&10 due to tantalizing choice of 252 APCR/300 HEAT. reload of Emil 2 complicates correct ammo choice even more, but again, a whole tier lower, and shells are stronger...just like in Skoda`s case. Old rules apply, you increase the "best" choice by 1 and decrease the "worst" choice by 3. Each user is allowed to do this a maximum of once per day. You must explain your choices, even if very briefly. However, you can give your opinion of a tank you are neither upvoting or downvoting. When a choice hits 0, it is eliminated. I'll keep track of in what order they were eliminated in the OP, and the end result is some form of interactive community aggregate ranking! Pretty neat. Highlight your increase with GREEN and your decrease with RED. Since there is an elimination of only 3 tanks in total, tanks start with 60 points each (arbitrary from my side: but enough so enough ppl can give their opinions). Kranvagn: 60 Emil 2: 60 Emil 1: 60
  4. Hello! I am a new player that has been reading your tips. It is going really well for me. I have ~55 % win rate so it has really helped me! I want to know what equipment I should use on the Panzer III which is a mobile medium tank at tier 4. You can skip the text below if you don't want to read it. I can now afford to buy my first tier 4 tank. I am going to get the Panzer III which looks like a very good medium with nice armor, good mobility and good 5cm gun. I like to play in a platoon with 2 comrades of mine and we all play the German nation with the same tech-tree. We are aiming to all get the Panzer III to be able to play as an effective medium platoon. I have been playing more than my friends so I am a little bit ahead and ready to buy the tank with 75 % crew right now. I will probably spend a lot of time in this tank and I want to upgrade as much as I can (no matter the cost) but I am not sure what equipment I should get. Some people recommend using: - Vents - Gun Laying Drive (GLD) - Gun Rammer But would it not be better to use Coated Optics instead of GLD because view-range is so crucial? People recommend to play this tank as a mobile flanker. The GLD only affects tanks that are stationary... People recommend GLD because the tank shoot fast (24 rounds/min) but has slow (2.3 seconds) aiming time. I have a hard time choosing. I want this tank to be as good as it possibly can be and I think that you can probably give me better advice than other internet people. So please tell me what you would use on a tank like the Panzer III with good mobility and high rate of fire! Thank you very much for all guides and help! And thank you for your reply!
  5. I'm currently running the standard Vert Stab, Rammer, and Optics. Is it worth it to replace one of these with a spall-liner? If so, which one and why?
  6. I was wondering what equipment to run on this tank, I'm currently using it as a more passive scout because it's too sluggish to dodge and weave like my boy the bulldog, but I would like some other opinions. Currently using binos, rammer, and vents.
  7. Salve, WoTLABS. As the title denotes, I'm wondering what would be the most impactful piece of equipment to mount on my T32 and the peculiar grievances with my available choices. At this moment, I have Rammer/Vert.Stab/Toolbox; stacking 100% Repair Crew + Toolbox + Large Repair Kit for a 135% repair bonus. The competitive options for the T32 are Coated Optics, EGL, and Vents but for solo pub, the former 2 seems to me to oversaturate the already great traits of view range and aim time to the point of useless excess and the latter doesn't seem worth it for the minuscule 5% bonus to the things that I like to improve upon (Driver/Loader skills). That leaves me to put either fuckall equipment or the Toolbox which although is more than likely really redundant, it gives it a sort of flavor and tomato-eqsue satisfaction at having a sub <5 repair speed. So lovely WoTLABS'ers, what changes should I make for my 3rd slot if anything at all for my solo pub adventures? If there's a dilema between competitive equipment and "flavor" equipment, at what point does flavor override competitiveness in terms of the tank characteristics if at all under terms that the tank in question is just used at the pubbie puddle level? Thanks~
  8. So with the current FASTBOIS meta in tier 6 skirmishes what should I focus on for crew skills and equipment? Those that enhance firepower / ability to do damage or those that enhance the spotting ability of light tanks? Oh and add why too!
  9. I'm aware of a post similar to this one existing already, but it was back in 2012/2013, so recent changes in accuracy, nerfs and buffs, as well as the addition of new tanks may make those information obsolete, so I just wanted to create a new post to see what everyone thinks now. I already have a Vertical Stabilizer and Gun Rammer on my T110E5, but I don't know whether Vents or Optics is better nowadays for the 3rd equipment slot. My T110E5 crew is 69% through on their 3rd skill and here's what I have so far: Commander: BIA, 6th sense, repairs Driver: BIA, repairs, clutch breaking Gunner: BIA, repairs, snap shot Loader: BIA, safe stowage, repairs Just wanna know y'all opinions, thanks
  10. Very simple, what is the best layout of equipment for the 50b, i plan to use vstab and gld for sure but the question is optics or vents. optics will help later in the game when trying to carry however anything that helps with aim time and mobility (while still partially helping vision) is almost essential on the french heavies.
  11. Having a discussion with another player about equipment for these tanks, when I mentioned that the CO2 Tanks, and Cyclone Filter are an option for this tank. This is due to them being Russian, and having rear mounted turrets. I have not played any of these tanks, so my word is just speculation. Based of my playing of the SU100M1, and SU-101. So my question to you, am I utterly stupid for saying that CO2 tanks and Cyclone Filters are viable choices for this tanks. Equipment would look something along the lines of; Vert, Rammer, CO2 or Vert, Rammer, Cyclone. Also, new to this Forums, so not sure if this is in the correct location.
  12. As I'm about to start the grind in both the french heavy line and T57 Heavy line I'd like to understand better the mystical world of autoloaders. I don't want simply to know what to do, I want to understand why I should do it, so I'd like to talk in depth about this with you good players as all alone I can't figure it out since I'm basically still a noob, much more so in the field of autoloading which is totally obscure to me. I'm reading all the guides I can find about the tanks of this two lines and other autoloading vehicles and I find this kind of words quite often: "as third piece of equipment many players prefer optics for pubs while vents for companies/platoons or organized play in general" So, first thing: the fist two pieces are vstab and gld in almost every case right? When is this not true and why? Is the aim time in autoloaders so bad that you have to use gld? For all autoloaders, even the less campy ones and the ones that do best at close range? Does the Bat Chat drop gld to have both vents and optics? Why? Other tanks in such this situation o that differs from the general line? I've seen/read some guides that state that you can go with vstab+vents+optics and leave gld out in most cases, like all the french heavies. Is this correct or wrong? Even if the aim time in these tanks is higher than the shell reload time? Is it because maybe are these guides and reviews done before the accuracy nerf that rewards full aiming? Now the proper question: is the matter that simple? Optics when playing alone and vents when you can count on the team or at least someone else? I understand why optics are useful, especially in the end games situations, when you have to spot your own target as soon as possible but still vents are used far far more often (as for vbaddict) than optics. Is this because it's the only way to reduce the reload on autoloaders? I read some time ago that vents on autoloaders are almost mandatory, but I can't find the source so it could be some tomato randomly talking on some forum... Isn't the reload time gain so little with vents to feel inexistent? (I only talk looking at numbers of course, so I don't have the feels, that's why I'm asking you guys.) I mean, the 50 100 has such a long reload that vents lower it down by more that 1 second, but is obviously a relative gain, is 1 second important when you have to wait 48/49 seconds anyway? And on thing like the T57 H which has only less than 25 seconds reload (btw isn't this a little too op?) isn't the gain too little to be any useful in a real situation and not only in theory? Why vents are so universally praised? But, I know, the game is not only equipments, there are also skills. As we know, with skills you can improve your view range much more than you can lower the reload. So is this a metter of crew skills? Is the view range gain given by situational awareness, recon and BiA enough to make optics less useful? On a 400 m base (as lots of autoloaders) the gain given by those skills is 30 m (30 with T57 and 31.3 with 50 B, why? Because of the 5% commander bonus on the radio operator that the 50 B has and the T57 H doesen't?), as for the auto values calculator of tank inspector (if it's wrong, please point it out). If you have this skills the additional gain is an inch more than 10 m with vents and and inch less than 41 m with optics for a total of around 440 m and 471 m respectively (if you don't have those skill is + 8,6 for vents and +40 for optics, but I guess you have at that point). As for the reload time, BiA and vents helps in almost the same way so having both is a nice addon (more or less like having double vents?), but I see a lot of people summing the bonus given by BiA only when there's vents in the equation. It's not "no reload bonus because of optics" vs "reload bonus by vents + reload bonus by BiA" because you have BiA anyway (or you should) but is "reload bonus by BiA only" vs "reload bonus by vents + reload bonus by BiA". The difference given by the stacking of the crew % increase is abysmal. So my question are: is 440 m view range and more or less + 2,15% (the actual stats increase given by vents) in other stats enough better than the 400 m base to renounce other 30 m? Is 470 m view range so much better and useful than 440 m to renounce an improvement of 2,15% in other stats like reload time, accuracy, aim time, etc.? Is 2,15%, even though in various stats, worth one of the only 3 equipment slots? What about the food? If at this skills you add the effect of food you gain more or less a 4,5% improvement in the affected stats. This gives you +20/22 m view range, having more than 460 m with vents and more than 490 m with optics. The gain given by the food is effectively more than the double of the one given by the vents, the reload on the T57 H and the 50 B gets lowered by more than 1 second, on the 50 100 by 1,9 seconds. Food, like BiA should be thinked as a constant in both cases because tecnically you don't renounce food to have one among optics and vents. Food is costly but I'm now talking of battle efficiency only, the "is it woth the bleeding of credits" part comes later. Now we have still 30 m difference (a little more actually) but relatively speaking a lesser difference between the two choices. So with food as a constant, same questions as before, with new numbers: is 460 m view range and more or less + 2,15% in other stats enough better than the 400 m base to renounce other 30 m? Is 490 m view range so much better and useful than 460 m to renounce an improvement of 2,15% in other stats? As for all other stats I guess that you want to have as better view range as possible, but how much view range "is enough" to sacrifice the eventual excess to gain that + 2,15% in other stats? Is using food a good idea in autoloaders? Is the performance gain worth those credits? O are other equipments too important is these tanks to use food? This is more a personal preference, right? I honestly think that I'm missing something, if you know what it is please tell. I'll go dine so maybe I'll figure it out, I'll try to edit the post in the case. I'd like to talk in depth of this because I need to understand the game, I can't fully enjoy a game I don't understand it...
  13. And was wondering what I should I put as far as equipment? My first thoughts are..Gun laying drive,Vents and Vertical Stabilizer? And the skills should be about the same as most heavy's right? Its fully upgraded and its my first autoloader..so I'm also getting used to the playstyle as well..I'm used to single shot tanks..and I've died a few times ...any tips on that?
  14. At the moment I run: EGLD - obvious choice. helps aim time. Camo Net - helps me stay invisible in fairly aggressive positions Binocs - weird choice because I don't know what else to put on I can't run Vents because it's 'open top' and can't run Rammer because autoloader. The only other viable choice (in my opinion) is the Medium Spall Liner because helps if someone is trying to counter me or ram me. However it will make me slower, which partially negates the point of Batchat Arty. I'm probably gonna get laughed at for using binocs but it did come in useful a couple of times when I was left alone to reset cap or unable to leave concealment without getting spotted. So yea. Spall Liner, Binocs, or something else? What do you guys run? Thanks,
  15. A question here. Ive read Garbad´s thread about the right set up for different tanks. Usually I run my T29 with vertstab (obviously), rammer and optics. (as suggested on the thread). This set up maximizes view range (that gets better with situational awareness on my radioman and BiA). BUT... T29 is more a close combat brawler than a sniper, the gun is powerful but accuracy is not as good as the Tiger´s. Since I find myself pretty often in urban or close range situations I think faster aiming is a choice, then I decided to switch optics for a GLD. I find this set up kind of logical to me. On the other hand optics may be a choice when the battles goes longer and there are a few tanks on the field, then spotting the enemy becomes mandatory, to place your bullet or to avoid that long distance nuclear blast that in many cases makes the difference between Victory or defeat. Any purple Guru willing to give this novice any advice??
  16. Hey! I have a locust, and I love it to bits. Its a fun little machine, and wicked fast in a straight line. In a tier 3, and lesser degree, tier 4 match, I'll be pretty aggressive in it. Active scouting, circling enemy tanks. (Well I guess strafing is more accurate, as I try not to turn unless needed due to speed bleed.) In tier 5, the APCR can't hurt heavies from point blank unless I get very accurate weakpoint shots. So Instead I'll passive scout. My current loadout, given this: Camo net Coated Optics Binos I know coated and binos don't stack. I use optics to active scout, but the range isn't long enough in tier 5 to do this safely, hence the binos. I'll sometimes drop binos for vents. Suggestions? I'm leaning towards keeping camo net, because IMO the stupidly high camo on this thing is one of its selling points. (I use a T71 crew with 6th sense, snapshot/smooth ride, and camo.)
  17. Sooo, I just bought the JT and have so far got the engine and tracks. I was wondering what sort of crew and equipment all you guys run?
  18. So the E-100 confuses me, I have never felt so hung up about equipment choices on any other tank. Generally I favor Optiks thrid slot, but I was like hold up, a manly tank doesn't need to see far away. Just needs to punch things in the face. Figured if I start doing CW where others spot optics will probably be suboptimal as well. I discount GLD because I don't think the difference is significant enough and I'm either aiming down completely or snapshotting anywho. I picked up vents off the bat cause I felt bad with zero view range boost, but I know the boost is minimal so I feel bad with vents too. I'm switching to spall liner to try it out, cause 183s and arty and other shit shooting he while sidescraping is a bitch (haven't tried spall yet). My gut tells me that after my brief stint with vents I should either go optiks or spall liner. Will decide after I "test"(play a few games with it and randomly decide I prefer x) spall liner. Pretty sure ill revert to not-manly optics after people tell me to feel bad for using spall liner :c Included a poll since I've noticed people seem to choose widely different junk, or I'm crazy. Answer will be in shortly. Might do that fancy wr/wn8 avg per answer stuff after if I'm feeling not lazy and there isn't an obvious favorite.
  19. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/228710-anatomy-of-a-capture-defense/). Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/304916-lerts-guide-to-being-the-invisitank-camouflage-and-spotting-basics/) How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/284733-lerts-guide-to-picking-your-fights/) You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/159638-lerts-thread-of-duh-or-mspaint-schematics-explaining-gameplay-basics/) Tank selection(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/251985-about-vehicle-types-roles-and-playstyle/) There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/273627-lerts-guides-to-shells-shell-types-and-shell-mechanics/) There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/212496-why-the-famed-center-rush-is-usually-a-monumentally-moronic-idea/) This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/198457-how-to-deal-with-autoloaders/). French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT http://rocketbrainsurgeon.com/category/world-of-tanks/ http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/186917-lerts-collection-of-guides/ http://wiki.worldoftanks.com/Main_Page General hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/forum/405-survival-guide/) Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/98891-lerts-easy-tips-for-beginners/) 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check wotlabs.net for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts
  20. I've greatly enjoyed its predecessedors, the T69 and especially the T54E1. As I had the T57 Heavy already researched now for a while I bought it during the current sale (on EUW). How would you skill a 3.5 skills crew? I thought about: Commander: BIA, 6th Sense, Repair, x? (x=recon?) Gunner: BIA, Repair, designated target?, snap shot?, deadeye? Driver: BIA, clutch braking, repair. offroad? smooth ride? Loader: BIA, safe stowage, repair. camo? fire fighting? Along with: vert, gld, vents Thanks so much in advance!
  21. First of all, I discovered this forum yesterday and already read and learned a ton. Thanks so much everyone of you. BTT: I am not a 100% sure about my crew's skills and the equipment for the T69. Equipment reads as follows: Vertical Stabilizer, GLD, Vents (should i switch Vents with optics?) My crew is at 75% of the 3rd skill and picked so far are: Commander: BIA, Sixth Sense, Sit Aw. Gunner: BIA, Snap Shot, Rep Driver: BIA, Smooth Ride, Clutch Loader: BIA, Rep, Camo Are these skills well picked? I have often read that most(?) of you prefer Off Road over Smooth Ride, is this the case for the T69 as well? One last thing: My perception is that a T69 does not catch fire often . Would it then be better to switch extinguisher with a large rep kit? Would cola be even better? Thank you so much in advance!