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Found 29 results

  1. Hi folks Just thought I'd take this oppurtunity to show/inflict upon you my Youtube Channel - I have all sorts of replays and tank reviews on there, ranging from low to high level as I move up the tech trees, and also some viewer replays that have been submitted. I make no claims about being a great player and all opinion and advice offered is based purely on my own experiences with the game and the tanks in question. I'll post a couple of tasters here below, and then add new videos into further posts as and when I get them uploaded. As a few of you good folks have asked via the WoT forums, I would be more than happy to take a look at your good replays for some subscriber replay videos on my channel. Feel free to send them to me at agingjedioake @ gmail . com (without the spaces) with a description or better yet email me the link to the upload on I can't promise to have time to take a look at all of them, but I'll certainly try! Follow me on Facebook Twitter Google+ Feel free to comment on the videos, share them, or ask any questions. Tank Guides & Reviews:
  2. Hey guys, Let me introduce you to a collaboration with my dear friend @Alabastrom, where our goal is to create educational videos for games we think we can play better than a fuegian steamer duck. We call this endeavour The Bromato Project. Don't ask why. This first installment of our World of Tanks video series called Tips to Improve features an 8k damage battle in the Bat-Chat 25t on Abbey, where we showcase camo and bush mechanics... and a couple of memes to top it off. We're basing these videos off of TheRiisingSun's work, so if you've ever watched his videos, our ones will be particularly similar in style. For a reason. All credits are in the video description. We really hope you're gonna like it! Appreciate your time! We'd love to hear what you think! We desperately want to listen to the community to improve on our videos, so please let us know how we could bring our videos closer to perfection. Also if we reach a hundred subs, we can give our channel a cool little URL, which is something we could use in the meantime.
  3. Had some free time this morning and figured I see "Where should I go with X tank on Y Map" often enough that I used and went to work As I do not play Tank Destroyers or Arty, these map guides do not account on where to play those classes These map "Guides" are for general areas where I personally, would bring your tank. Some locations, such as mid on sacred valley, or some hulldown spots on Prok/Fiery Salient hill require more finesse and were dropped to better suit the audience this was made for and reduce clutter This is mainly initial "Deployment" and does not count for late game cleanup or mid-game flexing/flanking, those are situational and cant be generalized so easy Standard Maps only, I personally believe encounter and assault are a bit too much if the player doesnt understand how the map works normally Here is the link to the full imgur album, complete with all 34 maps (Excluding a few tournament/clan league maps) Here are a few maps out of the bunch as a preview
  4. Arty guide status update: haven't even started. Busy with final exams. Won't start working on it until Dec. 17... You might want to go through the different pages to search for the actual tips. As you know, posting arty guide on WoTlab forum attracts a lot of love. Hi everyone! Artillery is one of the most unique class of tanks to play. Artillery is a very powerful class of vehicles and can often determine the outcome of a battle, whether people like it or not. It doesn't matter if one is an experienced artillery player or has just begun to explore this fantastic class, discussing strategies and exchanging tips with fellow artillery players can only improve your game! Please share anything that you think helped your game and could possibly also improve other artillery players! After a few thousand games in artillery, I learned a few things myself: 1). different artilleries have different shell travel times. always count how long it takes from when you click the trigger to when the shell actually lands. Factor in the shell travel time and predict where your target will travel during that duration will significantly increase your hit ratio. If you start to feel agitated and find your shells always land after your target, take a breather and calm yourselves: this helps to stop you from counting to fast and misjudging your tanks shell velocity. For new artillery players, there are mods online, artillery reticle mods, that have shell travel time displayed on your reticle when enter arty mode. 2). study the shape of your aiming reticle. The shape of your aiming reticle while in arty mode tells you about the terrain at which you are aiming and often also tells you the angle at which your shell will land. If your reticle is a long, thin oval, it means your shell will hand closer to ground at a sharp angle; so in this case, you would aim slightly behind your target so your shell doesn't land infront and miss! If the reticle shape is a fat oval, it means your shell will come more perpendicular to the ground; so you would aim your target at middle of your reticle to increase the chance of your shell landing on top of your target, where the armor is the thinnest, to do maximum damage. 3). set up near a wall or an building. This is to combat light and medium tanks that bypass your team and try to kill you. You set up near a building or a corner is so that the tank hunting you can't see you and have to guess where you are. This means they will only spot you by proximity when they come around the corner. Because people drive very fast, they often don't react fast enough to avoid driving infront of you, which is the very moment you have almost 100% chance of nailing a hefty shell into the side of their armor and do full damage. set up near a hill or a wall so that tanks can't circle you. If they try to get around you, they'll hit the wall and be very vulnerable to your shots. 4). install xvm. The xvm is very helpful in that it identifies on the enemy team who the best players are. The best players are also the most predictable players: there are key positions on very map that they try to rush to at beginning of the game. You pre-aim at those positions or along paths that lead to them. When the good players get spotted at the very beginning of the game, you have the opportunity to nail them right away. It's crucial that you are ready IMMEDIATELY when they appear because it takes 2 seconds for their 6th sense to activate, which is also the average shell travel time for a big caliber arty gun from 800m alway. Also, having the xvm allows you to prioritize your targets. You nail the best players, who are also the main forces that push, then the rest of their team will halt their advance. Dealing 2k damage to the enemy's best players is more significant than dealing the same damage but to less important players. 5). study your target. Sometimes your target keeps reappearing at the same spot because that spot is a key strategic location on the map. You study his movements to find a pattern in his habits so that you fire at the best opportune moment to nail him. A useful tip for hitting target that pokes over a ridge, fires a shell and retreats immediately: you fire when he's on the way up the ridge to fire. This is so that your shell hits him when he exposes himself over the ridge to fire. The average aim time for a gun is like 2 seconds, so your target will stop briefly, which is when he'll be hit by your shell. The shell hitting him not only will mess with his aim, it'll also likely to track him, giving your team the chance to shoot him to pieces. Even if he repairs immediately, he still loses because he just used up his only repair pack. I have the luxury of playing object 261, the tier 10 soviet artillery almost exclusively nowadays. The games in which I participate as artillery is only in tier 10 games. Depending on your arty, the tricks that worked for me may not work as well for you. Hope other artillery players join in on the conversation and make each other better! Ignore the haters! ARTY MVP!!
  5. Introduction The third campaign is now over and I hope you all had a good and fun experience; hopefully whilst winning a reward tank! As some of you may know, Orrie and I were the main field commanders for the lovely KITTY-clan during the campaign. For those of you who are not familiar with KITTY (shame on you if that is the case :3), we are a clan who do not participate in Clan Wars (CW). This means that most KITTY members that played during the campaign had little to no experience in CW. Surprisingly that couldn’t be felt as much as one would think. Everyone followed orders with a level of discipline that rivals even the better CW-clans on EU. It made it a joy to be a KITTY commander! It was the first time Orrie played as a field commander (he did a great job!) and this, combined with the in-experience of the KITTYs, resulted in us all talking about tactics, manoeuvres and how to handle different in-game situations on several occasions whenever something new arose. I thought I would put pen to paper and write this article in order to share the main pointers of what we discussed for any aspiring Field Commander (FC). I have added videos for some of the points (hidden by spoiler tags) where I have taken a replay from one of the CW battles to show you what I mean with a practical example. DISCALAIMER: Before I start I would like to mention a few things: Firstly, I am not claiming to be the reincarnation of Montgomery or Rommel, there are plenty of more talented FC’s out there. Secondly, there are different ‘schools of thought’ in regards to commanding (just like you see with managers for sports teams). Some FC’s like to give freedom to players, others just want it all to be ‘NEAT UND TIDY’ and disciplined - this can also be said for the tactics. Some FC’s like to be aggressive while others passive, there is no one correct answer and this means that what I write in this thread is NOT the only way to do it – but it is the WaterWay© of doing it Creating tactics The first thing you need to do is to acquire a tactic for the map you will be fighting on (Note: In clan wars you will know the map in advance!). You can either: 1. Use an already existing tactic 2. Modify an existing tactic or 3. Create your own from scratch. I personally prefer a mix of #2 and #3 but when I started FC-ing I mainly used #1 and #2. The important thing is that you use a tactic you are comfortable with. There are a few things to keep in mind for the tactics (either modified or built from scratch): An important aspect behind any tactic is to have a purpose with your tactic. Don’t make a tactic without any idea of what you are trying to achieve (besides victory of course). Do you want to dominate the vision game and thereby restrict enemy movements? Do you want to let them have map control but force them through a kill zone? Do you want a long and slow battle where you use arty to weather them down? Do you want a fast strike in order to prevent the enemy arty from having an impact? Do you want to be proactive or reactive? I am personally a HUGE fan of the principle of Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS), keeping your tactic simple allows everyone else to easily understand the tactic. It is important to make sure your team understands the idea behind the tactic. If they know what you are trying to accomplish they can help you during the game with information, independent thought and you will function better as a team overall. It also means that your soldiers will be able to react faster to different situations that might arise during the battles - ideally without you even giving orders. I have seen examples of field commanders trying too hard to be the new Monty or Rommel and failing hard. They often try to perform fancy tactics with several groups spread out across the map that has to all sorts of fancy manoeuvres, this often leaves people confused and without a clue on what is going on and this can lead to disaster. The simplest way to look at every battle is to make sure that you always have more guns active than the enemy. This means that you should try to avoid splitting your forces up into isolated groups of tanks that can’t support each other, your different units should be positioned around the map so that they can help each other if the enemy makes a large push on one flank. In order to help you with having the most guns active, you should build a tactic that provides you with ability to flex and react to different situations. Ensure that your forces are able to move around the map and selecting tanks that can provide you with mobility and tactical flexibility is a great help towards this (obviously!). The IS-3 is a great example of a flexible tank that can handle a great deal of situations; it has the health and gun to brawl, armour to delay an enemy push and it has the mobility to flex around the map (to a certain degree). Having this tank as your main force will give you the ability to react to different situations. My favourite tactic to use whilst trying to fulfil all of the above is a Blob™-tactic. A Blob™-tactic is most likely the simplest tactic you can use. I was first exposed to this thinking when I was in HDU (thank you Kabine!) and I LOVE(D) it so much that I’ve made it my trademark tactic. It works by having a large group of tanks (minimum 12+) that you move around the map. If the enemy has split their forces your blob should ALWAYS outgun them in the first engagement. This gives you a numerical advantage and then it is all about keeping your blob rolling to take out each pocket of enemy tanks. I personally love this tactic and use it whenever I can for several reasons: • When done right it is surprisingly hard to counter – especially if the enemy is not expecting it. • It is simple to understand - We have more tanks than they do so we destroy them with ease (KISS). • Easy to use - After a few battles with this tactic your soldiers will know it so well that it almost commands itself. Happened for us KITTYs after a few too many battles on Mines! • Most importantly - It is FUN to have these massive clashes with other forces that almost always end up in pure (yet controlled) mayhem. The Blob™ is not without weaknesses and doesn’t work on every map, but when it works, it works well. I have used this tactic to great effect on Mines; the spoiler below contains a video where you can see the tactic in action. No matter if you use a Blob™-tactic or another tactic, it is always important to ask yourself (or a commander buddy) the question: ‘If you use this tactic in a battle, what can happen? How would you counter it?’ This will provide you with insight into any potential weaknesses your tactic has and mentally prepare you for different situations that can arise during the battle. Of course you can’t - and shouldn’t - try to come up with a solution for EVERY POSSIBLE MOVE that might happen. Just make sure you are mentally prepared for the most obvious tactics the enemy might throw at you, if you find any glaring weaknesses whilst doing this then try and see if you can minimise the weakness with some tweaking or tank movements (flexing). Another important aspect with any tactic is to evaluate it after each battle - especially if it is a new tactic you are using. Sit back after the battle (win or loss) and discuss with your team about what worked and what didn’t, it is a bit more important to do after a loss (for obvious reasons). It is important that everyone involved is critical but constructive to help people improve/understand your tactic. Nobody can learn from mistakes unless they know they were mistakes in the first place. A final note: Don’t forget to mix the tactics up from time to time, especially if you play the same clan(s) on the same map over an extended period of time. If you use the same tactic over and over, the enemy team will eventually find a weakness and win. If you mix it up once in a while you will always keep the enemy guessing. During the battle Now for some tips and tricks for you to keep in mind during the actual battle. These tips will be shorter than the previous section as most of them are quite self-explanatory. They are (mostly) listed in no particular order. First and most importantly: Make sure your soldiers employ focus fire. It is your job as a FC to remind people to focus fire and if you are part of the engagement you should be the one calling the specific tank to focus. If you are not part of the main force you can/should dedicate a ‘flank officer’ to call out focus fire targets. In the spoiler below you can see how focus fire is important and why it can win battles: During the fighting it can get pretty hectic, it remains important to keep calm and be clear and concise with your orders. If you start mumbling, nobody will understand what you are saying and confusion will spread. Some commanders love to scream during battles but I personally hate it as it adds unnecessary stress to the situation, also make sure that if you’re explaining your next move (e.g. a push or flanking manoeuvre) that you make this perfectly clear. I personally say: “I will now explain what I want next, but don’t do it before I say GO/PUSH PUSH…” You should at all times during the battle acquire reconnaissance. You cannot act on something you don’t see, so make sure to have eyes on the most important approaches/areas to spot enemy movements. This also means you should make sure that enemies are still where they were last spotted. The intelligence gathering should not be putting your tanks in unnecessary danger. Everything can happen during a battle, so be ready to improvise. You can get SHIT spawns on your vital tanks, the enemy can do something unexpected and RNG in general. In the spoiler below is a video of how I had to improvise a battle on Westfield because of tanks spawning in bad locations. Do not be afraid to act because it ‘might lose the battle’. In most situations, especially unexpected ones, taking no action is often the worst you can do and WILL lose you battles rather than doing something with the potential of pulling out a win than do nothing and lose. To quote the wise words of Its_Matra: “Bad leaders don’t make bad decisions, bad leaders make no decisions” During the battle try to pay attention to enemy movements as it will give you hints to what they are planning. Experience helps a great deal with this point, but even people without experience can use this technique to some effect. If you see that their heavy force is moving away from an area (changing flanks) you can expect a push down another flank. This estimate will allow you to shuffle your tanks around so you can better handle a potential push on the other flank, again, experience helps with this aspect a lot as you know what people like to do in CW. You can see a practical example of reading the enemy movements by watching the video located in the spoiler below. You should aim to keep your forces undetected for as long as possible. If the enemy doesn’t know where you have your main force they will be reluctant to do a push – giving you time to prepare for your own push. Staying hidden is especially important if you use a mobile force (consisting mainly of medium or light tanks) that you shuffle around the map. This will keep the enemy guessing and give you the element of surprise when you push. The video in the spoiler below shows how I used this to my advantage on Sand River. One of the main differences for me between clan wars and random battles is the influence/importance of the cap circles - going for a base capture can be a viable tactic and sometimes it is the only way to win. It is not that uncommon on larger maps that both teams move clockwise/counter-clockwise of each other. This way both teams have the main force (8+ tanks) against a small defensive force (2-4 tanks) in the cap area of the opposition. This leads to a “cap fight” and can be quite tricky to handle. It boils down to who can get into the cap first and reset the best - IF you ever find yourself in this situation you should aim for getting at least 3-4 tanks inside the cap before you try to remove the defending tanks, this way you start accumulating cap points immediately and those few seconds can be crucial. If you don’t quite understand what I am trying to say then watch the video in the spoiler below where you can see it in practice. As a final note: I am a strong believer in learning by doing. Sure, theory crafting can be useful but you learn a lot better by simply DOING, just try out different tactics and expose yourself to different maps and enemy tactics. Strongholds are a great way to learn field commanding as there are no penalties if you lose. An all-purpose setup will give you enough tactical flexibility to learn the field commanding trade. If you have a more experienced commander buddy then you could ask him to give feedback during or after your battles, don’t be afraid to ask for help! I hope you all found this article interesting and helpful. If you have any feedback or comments feel free to ask away. This is by no means a definitive guide to commanding, but will hopefully work as a starting point for any new field commanders. I would like to end with a ‘thank you’ to its_matra for his help with proof-reading my article and coming up with suggestions for what could be done. Community tips and tricks If anyone has tips or tricks that they feel I missed or that they want to add, feel free. I will add the good ones to this “community” section of the OP and hopefully we can create a database for future aspiring commanders
  6. Sup guys, I made the switch to Armored Warfare a while back since WoT doesn't offer me anything new that is worthwhile after 34k battles. Must say i enjoy it despite the early development builds. Check out some guides and replays over here!
  7. When I read the official WoT forums, WoT sub-Reddit, and WoTLabs forums, one question comes up more than any other: how do I improve my gameplay? This is particularly challenging for players who have hit a ceiling in terms of their measurable performance (e.g. win rate, WN8 rating, etc) and are not sure what to do. While players can download replays of highly-skilled players, those replays don't capture the thinking process of the player behind the tank - you see their actions but don't necessarily know the how's or why's behind them.Therefore, in this video series I share what I learned as I progressed towards account Unicum rating (top 1%) with silver ammo only. I talk through how I’m reading the battle as it unfolds and discuss key decisions and mistakes. My hope is that these videos meaningfully help other players improve their gameplay. Complete "Road to Unicum" Guide and FAQs: Episode ListE50 Review, Flexing to a Collapsing FlankE50M Review, Covering a Flank SoloT-34-85 Review, Mid Control in Fisherman’s BayT-44 Review, Holding the High GroundT-44 in a Tier 10 BattleELC AMX Review, First-Shot OpportunitiesELC AMX in a Tier 8 Battle Review, Common MistakesT-54 vs -G-/PBKAC/BULLS PlatoonT-54 Review, Managing Gun Depression / Flanking ManeuversE75 Review, Hull Angling Without Hard CoverIS Review, Timing Enemy ReloadsIS-3 Review, Patience in a Tight SpotIS-3 in Tier 10 BattlesTrolling E100’s in Your T-62A / Object 140IS-8 Review, Heavy Medium – I Don’t Think SoCromwell Review, Middle Road Control in LakevilleT-62A Review, Spotting Hill in ProkhorovkaT29 Review, Hull-Down KingT32 Review, 5k Damage Blocked FTWM103 Review, Recovering From a Poor StartM103 Review, Creating Isolations When OutnumberedT110E5 Review, 9.7k Damage and 9 KillsAMX 13 90 Review, Completing LT-15 in Prokhorovka / Fiery SalientAMX 12t Review, Getting to 3 Marks of ExcellenceAMX 13 90 with 9.3k Contribution in Tier 10 MalinovkaChaffee Review, 2688 XP Carry in Tier 8 MalinovkaLorraine 40t Review, 9-Kill Carry in Mountain PassE25 Review, 4k Damage and 8 Spots in Fisherman's BayE25 Gameplay, Retreating and Counter-attacking TacticsT37 Review, 3.6k Damage and 7-Kill Carry in ErlenbergBat Chat Review, Flanking and Spanking in Cliff Episode #1: E50 Review, Flexing to a Collapsing FlankI review the exceptional E-50, the tier 9 German medium tank in the E50M line. Stat line: Ace Tanker, 5.5k damage, 3 kills, 2 spots, 1.2k assisted damage As demonstrated in the video, the E50 has a highly accurate gun, and the solid hull armor can be angled to deflect incoming fire. I discuss the importance of flexing to prevent a flank from collapsing and the arguments against capping too early instead of pressing an advantage.
  8. Hi guys! I think this may be a good idea. Basically, people ask for help on which maps they are weakest at and other players who know the map better step up to help! I can answer questions about most maps. Questions should be specific so people don't have to write the answer in essay form. Give reps to those who help! I need to boost my rep to post ratio ;_; So to start off, my worst maps are: Windstorm, Stalingrad, and Kharkov (These are all medium tank questions btw, Heavy tanks ez on these maps). Where do you flex in midgame Windstorm?Best microposition for squishy tanks on stalingrad?Which lane do you find the easiest to push first on Kharkov( in squishy mediums of course)?Shoot!
  9. Hi I am Nisa/Nisae and I'm sorta gud @ a variety games, many interested individuals and cuties have been asking how,so to stroke my e-peen help you guys I will share my not so secret anymore secrets! This is a guide not specifically aimed at WoT but rather at vidya games in general. Teaching the multiple stages of learning I've found common across a variety of titles. It should be fairly easy to read and I'd recommend finishing it and then referring back whenever you lose your way. Pictures will be added here and there because everyone loves pictures and its easier to keep track of what you're doing / where you are. Games I believe (+ backed slightly by stats) I am gud @ in somewhat alphabetical order : World of Tanks (duh) Blacklight: Retribution Contagion Frozen Throne B.Net assorted games (can list examples if anyone is actually interested in what maps I played) Insurgency Killing Floor Left 4 Dead 2 (especially versus mode) Rising Storm Red Orchestra 2 Robocraft Rust Warthunder Wow Ships + other things not in my steam library that I may have left out. To get things started, you need a game to actually play. This is largely up to your choice whether it be multiplayer or singleplayer, competitive or non-competitive, first person shooter or real-time strategies. However this guide is mostly geared towards competitive multiplayer games (if the games in the list didn't give it away) but it should be applicable to games that fall outside the spectrum or *gasp* even Reeeal liife. First thing that needs to be done is to assess your desire. Do you really want to get good? like really really? There is no shame in remaining a casual in a game if that is what you prefer (unless you're terrible and actively pulling everyone down but thats a story for another day), you'll need to be proactive (and willing) to do your research, put in some levels of practice, actually having a mind of your own, be responsible for your own health and make adjustments to the way you think and behave. After answering yes, you can begin by actually playing the game a bit, get familiar with it and learn how it plays as well as the objectives. The goal is to set up a basic foundation of sorts to work on, you want to be improving a pace you are comfortable with rather than having it feel like a race. Okay so you've established the foundations and its time to put down the pillars (haha rust jokes I'm so funny), "how do dis?" you might ask, I wholeheartedly recommend starting by doing some research on your own (which you should be able to considering you're on wotlabs), go read some Wikies, look at Forumz, Check Developer blogs, read poasts by Nisa etc. However research does not mean you just blindly absorb whatever is written or spoken,you yourself must decide whether the advice is trustworthy or just personal opinions or hogwash. There are a few ways to do this, Check on the validity of the site/author, if its an official site (or wotlabs :P) and by someone who is decent and experienced its somewhat easier to believe than the 41% shitter who is telling you the Maus is a medium tank that was made in Taiwan.Check on the date of the post, some previously established facts may be rendered false over time as updates roll by/new discoveries are made. (The mudflaps on the Maus used to have 0 armor and took full damage,making it a weak spot.)Confirm your newly acquired knowledge by comparing it to other posts regarding the same topic, if 1 posts says alternating your AP and HE fire increases your damage output and there are 15 posts from reputable sources saying might not be 100% true.Test it out yourself! Can't decide whether the MG port on a SuPershing is a weakness? Go shoot at one in the MG port and find out! (having friends may be helpful here)After doing your research and applying where necessary, you should be able to see an increase in your performance/stats/level of play but why stop here? Lets go higher! Next up, Practice. After learning the proper way to drive out a corner *(rounding it properly and not going full broadside) in WoT, practice will make it muscle memory/second nature which will save on mental processing power for more important things like whats for dinner what to do next to achieve victory. Practice it until you're comfortable with it and move on to the next skills whilst not forgetting what you've just learnt, congratulations you've just leveled up! However, practice doesn't mean you just go in and mess around, sloppy practice leads to sloppy habits,what you want is dedicated or good practice where you're actually paying proper attention to what you're doing. Don't just repeat the same thing over and over again expecting to get better, just because you can hit the cupola on a stationary T32 at 50m doesn't make you a T32 killing machine. Its boring,a waste of time and make you lose confidence if a situation presents itself differently. You want to work smarter and not just harder, pin-point the problem, analyse it, think of potential solutions, try them out and pick the ones you like best. For example a Tiger II's frontal profile is your problem and you must fix it. Instead of trying to penetrate the UFP, try going for the LFP, try flanking it, try going for the cupola etc. Work out a solution you're comfortable with and learn it. (personally I shoot Tiger 2's in the LFP -> Cupola -> Turret face) After a good session of practicing, it is wise to take a break. Have a snack, take a nap, do something else a bit. Then when you're feeling refreshed, come back and tackle it again and see if the practice paid off. If possible, try to manage the time spent practicing, you'll manage more in 3 straight hours (with breaks) as opposed to 1 hour every few days, this is also important in maintaining your purple stats if you do reach that point. This cycle of research and practice and watching your performance rise may be rather engrossing but its very important not to neglect your health either. As you start building fatigue you will lose efficiency or worse, you might end up forgetting what you've learnt earlier. Obviously this is bad and you want to reduce it as much as possible but the question is how? Some things to keep note of : DietSleepTimeEnvironmentPhysical and mental health [1] Your nutrition is important because if you are hungry or malnourished, you're less capable. Too hungry or malnourished and you might end up dead. Don't die. [2] Sleep is important, it saves what you learn as well as prepares your body for the next day, don't neglect it. [3] Picking a good time really matters, you're not going to be effective after a long tiring day at work...or when your house is on fire. [4] IS THERE HEAVY DRILLING OR OTHER ASSORTED LOUD NOISES AROUND YOU? Enough air in your room? Sky raining fire?... Go ahead and fix it if its possible but when its not going to happen, try taking a break. [5] Its better to rest on days where you are stabbed/shot/dumped or depressed. Oh don't forget to get enough exercise. Next up on our list is the juicy psychology tip bits where your mindset matters and will greatly affect your rate of growth and limits. It matters not how LEET or Pr0 you are/think you are in another game, when you're playing something different you must first acknowledge you're the noob/pubbie now and work your way up from a humble beginning. This means you should be ready to absorb and learn new things which can also mean you may have to over-write previously established knowledge so its for the best to not be a stubborn knob at this point of time, people may also be mean to you during this point of time so its advised to grow a slightly thicker skin. You should try making friends who can help you get better or grow with you, not being a cunt helps you make friends, not being a stubborn shitter helps you make friends and not being an elitist try hard will also help. You also need a healthy dose of self-criticism and self-analysis. What this means is you don't blame your peers or your team for losses right away, think of how you could have contributed better, yes your team may have been absolutely horrendous but chances are you'll be fighting horrendous teams from time to time so the only average in all your matches is you, and you have to understand that the MM messes you up just as much as any other chap on the team and the only way to win more is to get better. This is also the time for you to be pro-active in your learning, go try out some theories you've cooked up,formulate strategies, develop a play-style that you enjoy, a healthy sense of curiosity will prove useful here. You should also develop an independent mind that can adapt to whatever situations that may appear, know what you must do to achieve victory whether it may be taking the hill on Mines or eliminating a dangerous opponent. What is important is that you break out of crowd mentality or you'll never achieve anything substantial and plateau. Don't just copy others but rather become so awesome at something that others start copying you. Whilst getting a mentor may be helpful in learning the good from the bad, try not to depend too much on it because if you're playing with friends/platooned most of the time you might get sloppy in the sense that you become dependent on their support. You should try going solo once in a while as it can unveil new insights on how the game works or what skills you'd need, a good hundred or so battles can really sharpen your senses and train your clutching carrying skills because you have to be more careful and can't just fall back and rely on your buddies to help you as well as being able to trust your feelings and develop a good gut sense without throwing logic out the window. If done properly this can push you from being a filthy blue or pink into the (glorious) reigns of deep purple. Alternatively, when you're super purple and awesome (like me) you can try picking up some students or mentees, it can help you brush up on your basics and remember things you may have forgotten and might even learn something new in the process. You have to be careful though, make sure you know what you're doing because teaching the wrong things can have adverse effects on your potential and growth as well as your student. Most importantly you must remember to have FUN. All this is pointless if you do not enjoy the journey or the end results, avoid running yourself into a pit where you're just raging every game or two. Remember to keep watch on your tilt levels, if you don't know what tilt is I've ported a guide on it in the past : If you don't want to read the link (which you should), it basically refers to the reduction in your level of play and fun due to a variety of factors. To sum it up,I present a simple-ish timeline illustrating key elements of different periods : Newb : Good luck, have fun.Understanding concepts and mechanics of game.Get a good idea of what victory is like.Make friendsAverage pubbi : ResearchMake friendsTrying things outNot being a stubborn jerk / thin-skinned baddiePracticeMake changes to mindsetCompetent pubbi : More researchNot learning the wrong thingsCarve your own pathDon't be an assholeMore practice Filthy filthy blue pubbi : Don't get cocky.Don't be a shitter.Do your homework.Eat properly.Are you practicing?Watch out for traps along the road. (don't plateau)Don't come home too late okay? Purple but may be at limits pubbi : By now you should have your foundations, study advanced tactics/topics.Practice and don't forget what you've learnt.Be open to learn new things.Take care of your health.Don't forget to have fun. Super awesome Nisa level purple shit right here yo : Win games,carry teams of unwashed masses.Establish a cult of personality.Talk shit about blues with your fellow SuPurples.Stay healthy,don't die IRL.Don't degenerate and flop back into noob purple.Consider tournaments and other end-game content.Write guides to save the masses of filthy pubbies.Find something else to play maybe?Be awesome and treat newbies nicely okay? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------[ End of Guide ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Got inspired at 4am,figured "what the hell, maybe I write a guide" and went along with it. Actually had great difficulty starting it out but pretty happy with the end results. Feel free to leave comments on why you love/hate this piece of text and how it can be improved. *shameless advertising* Also experimenting with Patreon a bit : /shameless advertising off Credits : Mom - giving birth to me + raising Tjerry - proof reading Darkshaunz - Tilt guide The artist(s) of the pics - for making them
  10. Charioteer: The only good tank in a line This is a short guide on the Charioteer setup and basic positioning Equipment, Consumables, Ammo, and Crew Skills Equipment: For your Charioteer you have 1 Necessary piece of equipment and two pieces you can swap out depending on how you want to play Binocs - Optional Enhanced Gun Laying Drive - Necessary Coated optics - Optional Medium-Caliber Tank Gun Rammer - Optional Improved Vents Class 2 - Optional I run with Binocs, a rammer, and EGLD typically a nice mix with good reload and slightly worse gun handling. When I was going for my third MOE I ran with Binocs, EGLD, and Vents for the best boost to accuracy to make every shot count.. When I play strongholds or in platoons I run a Rammer, Vents, and EGLD for max dpm. Consumables: Large Repairs (Small if poor) - Necessary Large Medkit - Necessary Pudding and Tea- Optional Automatic Fire Extinguisher - Optional I personally run a Large rep kit Large medkit and Tea. This tank is extremely prone to module damage so the bonus of the Medkit protecting your crew is amazing and the Bonus track repair speed is also extremely Important to get you back to safety as fast as possible. Tea you can swap with a FE but with the gun handling I strongly recommend running Tea. Ammo: 25 Shells of APCR 5 Shells of PREMIUM HESH 0 shells of poor man HESH This tank really don't hold a lot of shells so 25 shells APCR is really needed. 5 shells HESH is basically for t8 and lower games to get you more damage per shot so you can keep your mark % or DPG high. Your APCR has 268 pen so you can easily frontally pen every tank you fight. Only Maus/E100 at a distance are a hard target to pen. Your Prem HESH has 210mm of Pen so you can use it to bully T8s and lower with ease from the front and get high damage shots on the asses of t10s. Crew Skills: Hopefully by the time you reach the Charioteer you have at least 2 crew skills+ First skill - Sixth Sense, Snap shot, Smooth Ride, Safe Stowage Second Skill - Camo Third Skill - BIA or Repairs Fourth Skill - BIA or Repairs (or be like me and ignore repairs for other skills) Fifth skill + - Can be whatever you have left I already had a 3/4 skill crew to put into my Charioteer and I deemed repairs not needed with how I play the it so I opted to take offroad driving, Recon, Situational Awareness, and repairs as my fourth skills Early positioning, When to run, Camo, What ammo to use THIS TANK IS NOT NOOB FRIENDLY. You need to understand how to double bush, where you can safely get 1 shot off from a bad position, when you can safely switch to HESH and how to aim it, and you need to understand when to GTFO early. With early positioning you can absolutely go into a city or a corner for a single shot as long as you can safely reverse into cover instantly after you click or get lit. Typically on maps like Ensk and Ruinberg you can get early damage like this and then either flex into a better position or push with your team taking shots ONLY after the enemy shoots your teammate and not you. Double bushing is when you have two sets of bushes between you and the enemy so you can fire without being spotted. You can use your binocs to your advantage in this situation. Sit in the bush closer to you and just close enough to spot through the second bush and then reverse far enough behind the first bushes so they are not transparent and you can fire without being spotted. You need to be careful though because some bushes have altered camo values and are basically useless. Looking at you Prohk hill bushes. Switch to HESH if you're top tier. You can frontally pen basically every t8 with HESH. The exception being KV4s and T28s basically. While you can still pen those two with HESH from the front it's a lot easier with APCR. Also if you manage to get around a t10 that isn't a maus/e100 (very strong rear armor) you can load a HESH in their bum for up to 600(!) damage and possibly a lot of module damage. Knowing when the run is probably the hardest thing to do though. You need to recognize if your section is failing against the enemy and leave early. You have the speed to get out early but you're not durable to take hits while running away. If you're iffy on a flank falling then move halfway back and find a rock and bush to hang out behind so you can still support your flank without fully running away but once it becomes clear your flank is going to lose then fall back to either the rest of your team or a highly defensible location (an example being ruinberg North spawn buildings where you have lots of camo and hard cover.) I'm planning on doing a video on E100 strats and Charioteer strats but I've been putting them off for a while because I'm not very good at editing videos. So if you want strats come to my stream and just ask questions for specific maps/situations you find yourself needing help in.
  11. E 100: The steel brick This is a short guide on how to get more out of your E 100 gameplay. Disclaimer: This is just my opinion on how to get more from your E 100 Equipment, Consumables, Ammo, and Crew Skills Equipment: For your equipment you have 2 necessary pieces of equipment and 1 optional piece that you can switch out to your own liking. Large-Caliber Gun Rammer - Necessary Vertical Stabalizer mk 2 - Necessary Improved Ventalation Class 3 - Optional SuperHeavy Spall Liner - Optional Enhanced Gun Laying Drive - Optional Coated Optics - Optional Toolbox - Optional I run with a Rammer, Vert stabs, and Vents. I like to upgrade my reload as much as possible so when I need to face off against another E 100 if we fire at the same time I can most of the time reload before him and put 1 more shot into him before angling myself effectively trading two shots for one if all shots pen. Consumables: Repairs (Large or Small) - Necessary Medkit (Large or Small) - Optional Chocolate - Optional Fire Extinguisher (Manual or Auto) - Optional I personally run a Small rep kit, small medkit, and Chocolate. I typically run a large rep kit , large med kit, and Chocolate. I run Chocolate Because as I stated in the Equipment section I like to reload faster than enemy E100s. You can absolutely run any combo that you are comfortable with though. Ammo: 20 shells of AP 20 shells of HEAT 10 shells of HE 20 Shells of HEAT and AP are more than enough to either shoot all AP or all HEAT every game. 10 HE is just to make it look nice and shoot waffles in their stupid waffle faces. Or to shoot pesky hull down IS-7s. Crew skills: Hopefully you have at least a 3 skill crew by the time you reach the E 100 First Skill - Sixth Sense, Repairs Second Skill - Repairs, Snap Shot, Smooth Ride, Safe Stowage, Situational Awareness, Adrenaline Rush Third Skill: BIA Fourth Skill: Armorer, Jack of all Trades, Clutch Braking, Fire Fighting, Fire Fighting, Fire Fighting Fifth Skill: Whatever you have left. This is what I would run if I had a new crew to train. Since I pulled my E100 crew from my Jpe100 my first 3 skills are left over from that (as my current crew skills). You can switch things around or get skills in a different order if you like. This is really just a suggestion of useful things. Angling, weakpoints, defeating an angle, what ammo to use This tank is a monster when it comes to corner fights. You bait a shot into an autobounce angle then fire back at whatever shot you and instantly return to autobounce angles. You can either pre aim your shot with right click or just pure snap after you bounce a shot. The reasoning for rocking back and forth is to bait a shot and protect your turret ring weakpoint. You move back, someone sees your cheeks and fires but you move forward and the shot bounces off your side. You have two weakpoints that are lesser known which I will show here. Those weak points are your turret ring and police bar on your turret roof. You don't really see a lot of people trying to hit either of those weakpoints. There's also an extreme weakpoint on your turret ring that will defeat any sidescrape you have that is a bit too far out. You can also defeat an angled E100 using those same weakpoints I showed before. You also need to know when to switch from AP to HEAT and from HEAT to AP. Save HE for shooting at waffles, hulldown tanks that you can't dig out, and low HP targets that you don't wait to waste time aiming at. Switch to heat if you come up on an enemy E100, E3, or IS-7 Just to get them out quicker and more reliably. Switch to AP if you are flanking and will come up on the side/rear of tanks But be careful not to shoot spaced side armor on tanks such as the E 100 or IS-7 because they can just absorb your shot wasting your ambush on their flank. Is the last tank alive a Waffle E 100? Load up that HE and pray for some 1k+ damage rolls, just make sure to aim at the weak gun shield and not the gun itself. Part 2 of this guide will focus more on the gameplay of glorious tank.
  12. I didn't have the time to make the arty guide this winter break, but I thought I owe it to the clickers whom I promised a guide... I've thought long and hard about revealing some of my positions because I was worried that people will wise up and make it harder for me to click. But, since university has started and I won't be playing for a while, why not release this! It doesn't matter if people know where I like to click, they are gonna get clicked anyways! It's basically impossible to avoid good artillery players' shots lol!!! There's a person who private messaged me in-game, and I promised to email him my arty positions. To you, sorry this took a long time. I forgot your email! So I hope you are seeing this! I annotated all the maps I think that are in play right now in pdf format. Excuse my handwriting. The file is too large for me to upload via forum, so I've attached a dropbox link. Just click it, and it'll take you to my pdf document on Dropbox! It's hard to include everything; there's just too much information that I wanted to include. Any questions or need clarifications? I'll try to answer them on forum. lol! Happy clicking! Clarification: Those positions are what I use EARLY and maybe MID-GAME. In general, I move around lots through out the battle. Don't stay in 1 place only... Generally, you want to hide behind a rock, house, or in any confined places so that if somebody tries to kill you, they have to drive in front of your gun. Take note to hide around 50m behind the corner so you don't get proxy spotted as enemy comes around the corner My steps on finding new positions: 1) go into arty mode and put reticle on a position you wish to hit. 2) double tap "R" to move forward full speed in the general direction you think a better position could be 3) if the reticle turns from red to green, it indicates the shell can travel to where you indicated 4). Congratulations! you just found a new arty position! BTW: It's possible that some immature moderator may delete this post. So, if you want to take a look at these positions later, i suggest you download the pdf and keep a copy yourself. lol
  13. I didn't have the time to make the arty guide this winter break, but I thought I owe it to the clickers whom I promised a guide... I've thought long and hard about revealing some of my positions because I was worried that people will wise up and make it harder for me to click. But, since university has started and I won't be playing for a while, why not release this! It doesn't matter if people know where I like to click, they are gonna get clicked anyways! It's basically impossible to avoid good artillery players' shots lol!!! There's a person who private messaged me in-game, and I promised to email him my arty positions. To you, sorry this took a long time. I forgot your email! So I hope you are seeing this! I annotated all the maps I think that are in play right now in pdf format. Excuse my handwriting. The file is too large for me to upload via forum, so I've attached a dropbox link. Just click it, and it'll take you to my pdf document on Dropbox! It's hard to include everything; there's just too much info. that I wanted to include. Any questions or need clarifications? I'll try to answer them on forum. lol! Happy clicking!
  14. Hi guys! It has been months since I posted a tips thread on how to play arty. As I promised then, since my final exams finished yesterday, I am starting to work on a detailed-artillery guide to help new struggling "clickers" to "click" better! So far, I've decided to partition my guide into 3 modules: 1). Principles of Arty Gameplay + General Clicking Advices 2). Evolved Clicking (more refined strategies of arty gameplay to help you survive against light tanks and mediums, and tips to improve your hit ratio) 3). Advanced Clicks (strategic approaches that I take in end-game situations when the game is on the line + how to adapt as the battle progresses unexpectedly) Please tell let me know on what you really are struggling with when playing artillery, and I'll keep that in mind as I construct my guide. I'll not be posting arty positions that I use; arty positions are trade-secrets that once they are leaked, they stop becoming effective. For this very reason, I advise arty players from sharing arty positions on forums at all. However, I'll provide hints and my approaches that I've used to discover new arty positions. On every map, there exist very effective arty positions. For example, on Himmolsdorf, I pull of 2.5k damage games easy on either spawn positions. Don't give up! I'll do my best to guide you in discovering your own arty positions! I'll keep you guys updated!
  15. I tried to submit this review to RBS two weeks ago, but no response so far so I decided to just put it up here. Enjoy Cromwell review by WaterWar The Cromwell is an iconic British medium/cruiser tank with great mobility for its time. It saw active combat during the later stages of WWII and the following years (1944-1955) with about 1000 tanks produced. In World of Tanks the Cromwell is a tier VI tank on the British medium line leading up to the (soon to be replaced) FV4202. It comes after the Crusader tank and leads to the Comet tank, which is quite fitting with development and abilities of these tanks during WWII. In this review I will go through different aspects of the Cromwell as it is portrayed in World of Tanks, including; characteristics of the gun and tank, recommended equipment/consumables, skills to consider and finally the play style of this tank. I will try to keep it as concise as possible, feel free to skip the sections that you have no interest in or already know. Characteristics In the following section all the numbers and characteristics are given with 100% crew taken into account and are taken from the “Tank Inspector” software. Mobility: This is the main strength of the Cromwell. It has an excellent top speed of 64 km/h (20 km/h reverse) on flat ground and going downhill you can even surpass this. This is significantly faster than other tier 6 mediums. Combine this with a power to weight ratio of 23.19 hp/t, hull traverse speed of 36 d/s and terrain resistance values of 0.86/0.96/1.73 on soft/medium/hard terrain respectively and the Cromwell becomes nimble and manoeuvrable tank. This allows the tank to easily relocate into strong positions and to counter enemy pushes around the battlefield. Circling isolated heavy tanks is also a joy. Armour: The Cromwell has next to no armour when compared to its counterparts. The hull has a thickness of 64/32/32mm and with no angle at all and prone to triple overmatching on the sides and rear from guns with a calibre greater than 122mm. The turret is slightly better armoured at 76/63/57mm but this is still not much good – on the plus side, at least it can’t get triple overmatched by any gun the Cromwell faces! The only way you are going to not take damage when you are hit is by some ‘freak’ angle on the turret or if the tracks absorb the shell. This means that the health pool of 750 HP will be used up quickly if under fire. Life is simple in the Cromwell: Don’t get hit or you die. Gun: The Cromwell uses a standard 75 mm gun. It does 135 hp of damage (175 hp with HE) with a penetration of 145/202/38 mm (AP/APCR/HE respectively). The premium round on the Cromwell allows it to remain competitive in higher tier games. The rate of fire is 16 rounds per minute which equates to a damage-per-minute figure of 2165.9 - with a shot dispersion value of 0.345m at 100m. The gun depression is -8 degrees allowing you to fight on hills and ridges with good effect (still not to the level of some American tanks). Be aware that over the back of the tank, the Cromwell has +2 degree of gun depression. This means the Cromwell CAN NOT aim at target on level ground over the rear of the tank. All of above (minus the rear depression) makes the gun looks to be good, on paper. Sadly this is not the whole truth as the Cromwell has some bad hidden stats that result in poor gun handling. First off, the shell velocity is quite low (785 m/s) so it is hard to lead targets at range without significant practice. Secondly the bad accuracy bloom values after firing and on turret and hull movement (see image below) means that whenever this tank is moving the aiming reticule expands to a stupidly large size requiring you to aim for a long time when you stop moving. This leads to poor snapshotting - even at close range your shots will fly off into weird directions. You will want to do whatever you can do improve the gun handling (more on that later). Visibility: Camouflage is 14.6/11.1/4% (stationary/moving/firing) with a 100% crew. With a 100% camo crew the values are 26.43/20.09/5.5%, adding the Improved Ventilation equipment (vents), Brothers in Arms crew perk (BIA) and the Pudding and Tea (food) consumable on top and you get a great camouflage value of 28.2/21.44/7.73%. This helps the survivability of the tank and allows it to perform in a pseudo-scout role. The view range is a 360m which is standard for tier 6 mediums. Equipment and consumable Equipment: The only equipment that should really be considered for the Cromwell is Improved Ventilation, Gun Rammer, Gun-Laying Drive, Coated Optics and Binocular Telescope. Sadly the Cromwell cannot mount a vertical stabiliser (unlike the Sherman ‘Easy-8’ also at tier 6). Since the Cromwell is so mobile and has a decent view range you will want to mount Coated Optics as this gives it even more flexibility as a pseudo-scout (more on that later). Next you want to optimise the gun handling as much as possible so a gun-laying drive will help with the aim time and snapshotting ability of the gun. The third slot is up to personal preference and play style. Some people (such as Quickybaby) mount the Binocular Telescopes if you like to be a passive scout. I personally think that is wasting the biggest strength of the tank; mobility. The Cromwell should not be sitting still at any point if you are trying to scout. You can also go with a rammer for increased DPM or you can go with Improved Ventilation for a slight overall improvement on everything - including gun handling, view range and camouflage – of which the latter two help with the scouting role. I personally choose to mount vents, as I want to improve the gun handling as much as possible. I found that I am more often in a situation where I would need or want better gun handling compared to one where I can use the DPM of the tank to the fullest. A gun rammer only decreases your reload with 0.374 seconds so it’s not that big of a difference in my opinion. Consumables: For consumables there is nothing that special about the tank. If you feel like it you can drop the fire extinguisher for food or Improved Octane Fuel depending on how many credits you want to spend. Food helps more with the overall gun handling and stack with the bonuses from vents and any potential BIA perk. You don't get set on fire very often (engine is 20% fire chance), but it does happen from time to time and always in critical games where you need to carry hard. Such is RNGesus. Skills For crew skills, you will want to try and improve the gun handling as much as possible (smooth ride and snap) together with overall survivability perks (6th sense and safe storage), followed by camouflage and view range skills to help with the scouting abilities. You could consider training BIA when you are working on your 3rd skill, especially if you run with food and vents as they all stack together and help with the bad gun handling (it’s all about the gun handling). This is more of a personal preference as some people prefer to focus on other skills like driver skill and repairs. However: don't bother with repairs until 3rd or 4th skill as you have so little health you can't allow yourself to sit and wait for your tracks to get back on. If you are tracked you need to use your repair kit - if you are then tracked again you are dead anyway. Even with a full repair crew it takes 6-7 seconds to put the tracks back up which is a long time at this tier, so I wouldn’t bother with it (talking from experience here). Also I would argue clutch breaking is not needed on this tank because the traverse is already great, but again, this is an issue of personal taste. I would recommend the following set-up for a full three-skilled crew: Commander: BIA/6th sense/camo Driver: BIA/Smooth ride/camo Gunner: BIA/snap shot/camo Radio: BIA/situational awareness/camo Loader: BIA/Safe storage/camo For now let’s assume you have done everything you can to improve the gun handling (mounted vents and gun-laying drive; snap shot and smooth ride perks; added food as consumable). What improvement has this provided? Comparing the two images below and we can see that there is a significant difference of between 8% (hull blooms) and 17% (turret blooms). So if you want to go all in on improving gun handling it is also worth noting that by doing this you also improve the tank performance overall (with BIA, vents and food). Tactics The Cromwell is a flexible tank that can perform a set of different roles depending on map and team composition. It performs quite differently depending on whether you are top-tier or bottom-tier because of the combination of HP difference and bigger guns. Overall, I tend to follow the same general strategy when driving the Cromwell. Due to the excellent mobility and top speed of the Cromwell it performs well as a pseudo-scout or as a support for the friendly scouts in the early fights for key positions such as the central hill on Mines, the ‘doughnut’ on Cliff or Karelia etc. The scout-support role works no matter the tier but your aggression should differ depending on the tier. When you are bottom-tier it most likely that they have a scout the same tier as you or even a tier higher, in which case you would need to be more careful (emphasising the supportive nature). When top tier you can be more aggressive on the early positions. The pseudo-scout nature of the Cromwell works no matter the tier. Whenever I play my Cromwell I always go for an initial scouting run (assuming the map allows me to do it) as this gives both you and the team valuable information about enemy deployment. Based on this information I can move to the best position to help the team. When the battle has developed a bit you can start to flex around the map allowing you to support different flanks and exploit enemy defensive weaknesses to cause a lot of damage and kill key targets; remember that the Cromwell is a decent scout so keep using this to your advantage. End-game you can start ‘mopping up’ by killing isolated enemies and/or give on feeding your team with information (enemy positions, remaining health) whilst being a pain in the arse by driving around and being unpredictable. Now if you are top-tier you can be more aggressive and be more active in the fights, whereas if you are bottom tier, you are more a scout than a medium and have to play accordingly. Don’t forget that you have a small total of hit-points (by comparison) and can be killed in two shots by Russian 122mm guns, three shots by almost anything else when bottom tier. When top tier you can take a few more shots, but you still need to be opportunistic. Since the recent changes to maps have been more brawl-focused I want to add a small paragraph on how to handle that. When top tier you need to use your situational awareness to shoot at enemies when they are distracted by someone else and then pulling back before they can return fire. You can afford to take a hit from anything but 122mm guns and still be able to fight on. Avoid facing 122mm guns like the plague if you can, as they shave off 2/3 of your HP if they roll high. If you are bottom tier you need to be even more cautious and opportunistic as even more guns can kill you and you have a hard time penning most targets, even with APCR shells. I can't really add more than that as it’s primarily dependant on each individual battle/map/composition as how to move and where to find the holes. It eventually comes with practice and your situational awareness definitely helps with this. Summary Just to summarise this review in a few pros and cons: ++Excellent mobility +Good camouflage value (with camo crew) +Good penetration (with gold round) +8 degrees of gun depression -Slow shell travel time -Very thin armour -Can’t mount vertical stabiliser --Horrible gun handling characteristics I hope you enjoyed this review and learned something new. If you have any feedback and/or questions I will be more than happy to respond to them as best I can.
  16. Hi All , Here is an epic review of the T-40. A new players dream, Like how i use the tier 10 standard view range to good effect and tear apart a team two tiers higher than me. Have fun Havoc
  17. [WoT UNI]Training Sessions and Results- How to be a Sneaky Ba$%*rd This is the first filmed training session for World of Tanks University. The training session are non compulsory and are kept short and sweet. Afterwards we have some clan on clan action then I send the boys out to practice what they have learnt in public matches. I also include in the video a game play footage of one of the lads using the newly learnt technique to get good results. This week it was all about how to peep the hills, get damage and not get shot.!! The game play footage is of Elarrow in a comet t7medium in a tier 9 game using this to good effect and Harvesting 1200 damage, he ended up with 1700 damage in the whole battle. Great result for a 800 wn7/8 player Please enjoy Havoc
  18. Hi Guys, I am making a fun video about arty in game, I need as many replays as possible of the following; Tanks getting one shot by arty - tank side of view arty one shooting tanks arty point of view they must be one shots Thanks in advance and thanks to those who responded to my last Appeal those videos are in production. Have a great day Havoc
  19. Here is VonCurry's cheat sheet for new clans, you're welcome. (Mods pin this and unban VonCurry on the wotforum for the injustices you did against him #FreeZodman) Before you do anything involving a clan, be a soldier in a clan. Learn from mistakes and successes - Started off as a Sand Person in an African clan (D-INC) learned what clan wars was and learned how to be part of a community, also was also a good player who learned to play tonks and could play CWs competently (This is the minor leagues play here first). D-INC died and it's people spread like ashes in the wind. Then was a soldier in _BAD_, learned not to sperg, watched and took note on mistakes made. Then moved to PBKAC and learned how to play the "game", watched Ziddy #masterofdiplo, took note on what to do, somewhat learned how to poast. *See Purple Dawn and the fall of the Burning Legion on what not to do* *Watch successful clans like -G-, Otter, Relic, PBKAC on what to do* Once you've learned how to play the "game" - Create a fresh and unique theme, not something like 683rd Armored Cavalry with some goofy slogan... "e-honoUr, Integrity, Retardedness"... 1996 Chicago Bulls - GET DUNKED. (It's a game, not real life). - We started with a foundation of good players, Zodman,Zordan,Zippen with a proven FC Zackson. (You have to have a caller, if you don't have one.. don't bother making a clan). Also if you're garbage, don't bother making a clan, because no purple will ever bother going to you, you need some credibility. Why would I go play for some 1000wn8 goober instead of this badass purple who has a slick new theme? - We then brought in players of a certain standard 1800-2XXX wn8 (And recruited any FC we could find). As well as friends Zongley,Zerr etc who didn't meet reqs. but are loyal guys (who are now grandfathered in). Don't set your bar too high (aka reaching for super unicums because most of them A. play for stats B. Don't want to play with the common folk). *See the history and demise of Purpl for further examples on that* - Raise the bar on recruiting when your roster permits (You want to improve your team). - Put time and effort into the clan. You can't show up for 1 hour each day expecting things to get done, I primarily play this game or at least keep myself available when not playing to run the clan. Hit the map with 20 chips and 12 active players, and took land. Didn't try for anything fancy, just a small pot of gold. Didn't thump our chests at neighboring clans, fought battles we could win. We had 3 pieces of land with only 40 odd chips. Take it slow Recruit - AGGRESSIVELY recruited via Wotlabs/This forum/Wot-CS (Your best friend is the "Member Changes" tab for each clan)/Ingame (I'm talking hours a day, pretty much you're not playing tanks for fun until the roster reaches 100players) - We also brought in attractive players who had no interest in CWs (Though none of you knew this and most of them are since gone). That provided us with A. Substance to attract good players B. Chips C. WOT-CS score for ePeen. - Keep tabs on CR/D and keep tabs on clan implosions, and try to bring those players into the fold ASAP. Volt - (Enj,Edge, Rageous etc) Crabs - (Zutombo,Adaa etc) Build Depth - BULLS has 16 FCs of varying skill and talent. I can rest callers, and keep the workload light until needed. *I can have half my callers gone and still be able to compete in CWs* - Don't recruit people with 1 tier 10, they need at least 5 (Or have several coming in the near future). *A 1900wn8 guy with 15 tier 10s is more valuable than a 3000wn8 guy with 1* - Have a command staff that is dependable and competent. Also take constructive criticism and listen to veteran clan commanders (G1M,Edge,Enj,Rageous) *G1M/Rageous/Zackson/Zutombo can all run the clan if I am not here* - Keep your team full of actives. Inactive players are almost completely useless to your clan. *USVCH chip spammed BULLS with 4 battles at the same time with no notice, I was able to fight all 4* - When the opportunity permits, you can create a sub/brother/affiliate clan. They can provide offsets and assistance on riot clearing LZ clearing and a stable neighbor if needed. (I recommend ONLY 1, as a protective measure against multi clan alliances or groups) *See Evil Gaming, Claws/Mantis, Relic/2/3, Petco, Chai/Chai 2/Yo_oY, King/Queen/USVCH, Havok/-J-/Arbok* Keep it fun - Really important if you are an African clan, your community is going to live or die, depending how much people enjoy playing in your clan and with those people. - Bulls would play warm up music before clan wars, joke around, keep it relaxed. - Make your Teamspeak fun, We have a bunch of random TS tags for flair. *Stole it from Petco, and put our own swing on it* - No training (If you are an African clan you may want to have training) and high attendance standards 5-7 days a week is too much, 3-6 days a week with a gold bonus for the 6 day guys. Let the players have days off to enjoy life. - Don't embezzle gold, but give yourself and the officers incentive for running the clan. Also pay your players decent gold (If you can afford it). - Rest your FCs, if the battle isn't a do or die battle, let another FC get some experience and rest your main callers. - Jump on riots and LZs when it's time to train new FCs, play to win but don't freak out when the inexperienced FCs lose games. (They are learning). - Let you and others have time off from the game when you need to recharge. Don't let yourself get to the point of burn out. *See ChairInABasket and the demise of NDP for info on that* Diplo and Work with people - Chai, Otter reached out to us, and invested in us. Because we showed potential. - Be a loyal and trustworthy neighbor to surrounding clans (Give them a reason to not map your tiny clan). - Learn what is going on in the NA Map (who is fighting who, why? etc etc.) - Don't act like you're hot shit, because you're the new guy on the block *See Mac_D diplo with Crabs for further info* - Continue to build on your team (bring more FCs in), find more land. You're never done, kick inactives and keep your team fresh, not stagnant. Get rid of players who do not perform. Finally - Carve out your gold and solidify your spot on the map - Choose a target you can beat, have audibles for other plans. (You don't want to throw your clan at a brick wall like Otter or -G-). - Have a buddy to even the odds (Chai and Bulls hit Enjoy and Enjoy 2) - Have a plan of attack (we worked with Chai and blitzed Enjoy/Enjoy 2 when they got hit with riots, planned where we would land and what areas we'd march into and same with Chai). On day one BULLS had 3 territories, we took out their ability to offset each other and on day 2 cut them in half from each other. - Don't be an asshole to your partner (We split the goaldz evenly) - Establish relations with you neighbors WHAT NOT TO DO Recruit people for chips (aka reds,baddies,shitlourdes) Try to hit big clans and take their stuff. They will crush you under their boot, even if they are half your talent. They have numbers and will wear out your small team. Act like you're a bad ass. Sperg in CR/D. Piss off clan leaders. Bring in cancerous well known people (Sneaky_Bugger etc) unless you know they can change their ways. Build hordes of subclans Poach from landholding clans I will answer any questions people may have.
  20. Foreword: I apologize in advance to those who look down on low tier (e.x <5) tanks. So... (Picture credit goes to cwjian90 below this post ) Review: Conclusion (Also TL;DR): The tier 3 child of a Leopard 1 that mated with a T69. Speed, no armor, and a tank that constantly has to load at least 1/2 gold in case of those games. My rating: 8/10 without fun factor, 9/10 with fun factor Tips: Please be gentle, it's the first guide i've written D: I'm absolutely terrible at everything beyond this light tank.
  21. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game ( Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe ( Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting ( How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor ( You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics ( Tank selection( There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo ( There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning ( This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks( French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT General hints ( Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful( Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints ( 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts
  22. The Aufklärungspanzer Panther, it just rolls of the tongue doesn't it, along with some green spittle. Overall impressions of the tank Driving this tank is a little like taking a satisfying dump. At first it’s kinda painful but by the time you’ve finished with it you almost feel like jumping up and down just to test out this new light sensation you’re feeling. The tank is a good sniper vs dangerous opponents and a good bully when it comes to other light tanks provided you get to fight on your own terms. Its HP pool is best in tier for its class and it’s only going to get buffed, the same can be said for its accuracy. Pros Good accuracy Good gold pen Good maneuverability, a lot better than you might think when running 105 octane. Large HP pool. RAMMING RAM RAM RAM! (additional source of damage) Cons Camo? Everyone says it’s terrible but I have a good crew and use bushes a lot so it’s workable. Large profile :+( you’re a big target. Dangerous active scouting is a no no. Low DPM. You won't be losing many fights because of this because you shouldn't put yourself in a position which relies on it. Scout MM so it gets shat on as usual. Equip Vert stab... I mean, unless you want to stop and aim at that obj 212 that’s looking at you. Vents. I think a little better everything is better choice than a rammer on this. Fuck arty. You already have bad DPM so you won’t be relying on it. I guess you could go a spall liner or rammer if you really wanted to, you probably wouldn’t notice much of a difference. I’m not a fan of camo nets or binocs in light tanks because I can’t even sit still for long enough to fini Optics. What do you mean you didn’t know this was a scout tank. Consumables 105 octane purchased ½ off - it’s either this or a gold fire ext. Preventative maintenance and some other firefighting skills might also come in handy if you’re running this. small repair kit large or small med kit. Chocolate is also a viable alternative if you can afford it. Ammo and gun I use the Konish and I shoot as much gold as I can afford. You might think that the 105 makes it a little more flexible because you can shoot HE but the 105 is better suited to close range encounters while the fail panther is better suited to ranged fights, hence the konish. Now that the 105 HEAT rounds have been nerfed to hell I can comfortable say that there is no viable alternative to the konish. If you're still running the 105 post 8.6 then come down out of your tree and stop throwing your faecal matter at the spectators. Skills Commander: 6th + camo + recon + repairs Gunner: camo + snapshot + repairs Driver: impact + offroad + smooth + camo others--- camo, repairs, whatever. I guess you could go for BIA once you are deep into your third skill but it’s a matter of gold and whether or not you can spare a skill for your driver. Fuck arty. The order of the skills for the driver are debatable, I am happy with my current setup, if I had to lose one for BIA it would probably be smooth ride. Update. I just updated my skills to get BIA, recon and situational awareness for a very nice view range buff. After a lot of consideration I changed my drivers skills to include BIA, smooth ride, offroad, camo. The way I see it, I'm only going to ram people that weigh a lot less than me anyway so impact won't make a big difference. I am sad to lose it but I couldn't give up any of the other skills which I consider essential for my play style. My view range is now 390*1.1(optics)*1.05(BIA)*1.02(recon)*1.03(situational awareness)=473m. Note that the maximum spotting range in WOT is 445m however every vehicle has a camo value which reduces the effective distance at which they are actually lit, by stacking view range past 445m I am able to spot more people right on the 445m while remaining undetected. Play style tips specific to this tank Fighting other light tanks. Never brawl with an enemy light tank if they are uphill from you because it denies you your trump card: more light on light ramming action than a holographic porno. To win a DMP contest or even come out with a respectable amount of health you need to start the engagement with a ram. Right off the bat any other light will lose 100-600+ depending on your relative speeds. If your opponent already has low health get in there and finish them off quickly like a hooker when someone asks for their money back. I don’t care if you cry, you’re not getting paid to enjoy this. Really though that is true of all light tanks, if you can get in there, do a quick 200 damage to finish a target and get out before the enemy has a chance to react then do it and do it quickly. Any protracted fights in hostile territory are not likely to end well for you. Also fuck arty. Tips for harassment against superior firepower. Priority: don’t get shot. You do like 170 damage per round, it’s never worth trading your 10% damage to the enemy for 50%+ damage returned. When you are outclassed by superior firepower do one of the following: 1) Either wait until they are distracted by another heavy tank or anything they will prioritize over you and then flank them and put shots into their rear. 2) Wait until they are on such low health that you can finish them off before they get a chance to return fire. 3) Don’t fight them at all, just keep them lit and let someone else shoot at them. 4) If it is a target with limited mobility you’re better to fight it in the open and on flat ground. See tips on harassment against superior firepower 5,6,7,8. 5) Avoid the dreaded “scrape off”. Enemy heavy tanks and TDs in particular will try anything they can to get you in front of their gun. The side scrape is their best bet of getting you off their ass, they will find a rock, a building or anything they can to cut off your path around them maybe even pin you down in front of them. They will try to get their ass to the wall and then reverse and turn towards you so that you are left stationary and in front of them. Cousin to the scrape off is a move favoured by heavy tanks with slow turret traverse. All they need to do is get their ass against a building large enough to increase your orbit around them to one that buys them enough time to turn their turret. 6) Why come the slow turret man caught up? Ok so you found an E100 in the open and you’re putting rounds into his sides and ass but you see him driving towards a steep traversable slope. As far as I know tanks traverse at more or less the same speed on flat ground and on a moderate gradient, so if they are turning their hull and their turret like a smart tank then there is the possibility that their turret will catch up to you as you drive up hill to circle around them. If you can see this coming then you will know to avoid fights on the sides of hills that will rely on you circling them. 7) Never start a fair fight with a tier 9 or 10 medium. Take advantage of them at every opportunity but don’t stick around if their attention is drawn to you. 8 ) Tips on circling: Ok here is a little secret I’m going to let you in on, if you circle too well you will get shot. The ideal way to circle someone to death is to be driving forwards around 45 degrees in front the direction of their turret traverse. You see your average tanker might think that being 180 degrees from their gun is the best place to be, but at this point you are not only driving away from their gun but you are also driving towards it should they quickly change direction. The best way to stay safe is to bait them into traversing in the one direction with you confidently staying just ahead of their line of fire. Having to turn your tank around once they change direction is time consuming and dangerous and the above tip does a lot to mitigate this danger. There are also a few things you can do to set up favourable encounters from the start. When you’re sitting behind them shooting them in the ass don’t face to his left or his right, face directly towards them so that when they turn their turret one way or the other you can easily drive in the right direction without having to turn around at the start. If they are smart enough to turn both their turret and their hull and they are just fast enough to catch up to you then do your best to get in a drive wheel shot or two to keep them tracked. Don’t aim for the turret ring, it’s usually a really small target and I don’t like your chances of hitting it on the move. Camo and vision control. This is a very important part of the metagame, whatever that means. Some tankers can use vision control alone to dominate the battlefield and they do it a lot better than me. What follows is my relatively experienced take on vision control, what it means and how to exploit it for your team. This section is not definitive, I think jacg123 is working on a better version of it at the moment so I’ll just give you the basics. Requirements for effective vision control: View range 6th sense Camo and ideally but not necessarily, speed. Goals of vision control (in no particular order, reverse alphabetical is just by chance I swear fuck arty.) Intel To know where the enemy are so your team can plan accordingly, this is wishful thinking in pubs but you never know, maybe your platoon mates can take advantage of it or perhaps you will be lucky enough not to have total retards on your team. Attrition To enable your team to cause damage from relative safety. In a game that usually comes down to a battle of attrition the capacity to facilitate damage done without damage received is an awesome advantage. Area denial To deny the enemy ground which would give them any kind of tactical advantage. Denying them firing lanes and their own vision control is a sure path to victory. Just being in the right bush at the right time might determine the swing of a battle even if no damage results from it. By spotting the enemy along a common path or around their favourite sniping spots you set off their 6th sense every time they poke. Now when this happens they don’t know if it’s just an unsupported light tank spotting them or if it’s an enemy obj 268 and three window licking clickers aiming right at them. Fuck arty. Methods Know your maps Every map has areas where effective spotting can be done either from bushes or low risk active scouting runs. On any map if you can think of a spot that may achieve the above three goals with relative safety then use it. As the battle develops these key spots change and you have to adapt accordingly. Exploit spotting mechanics Exploit is perhaps the wrong word and its usage may have lead to them changing how double bush cover works :+( Know how the spotting mechanics work, read the wiki and use it to your advantage. Use bushes whenever you can, think of them as strategically placed camo nets or as unidirectional vision obfuscation facilitators class C if you will. Camo sniping: So you’re spotting and you want a piece of the action. Ok but be careful, you can camo snipe at enemy tanks around the 400m mark, closer if you time your shots to correspond to when they pass in front of a bush more than 15m from you and less than 15 m from them. Remember it might not be the guy you’re shooting at that ends up spotting you. Only camo snipe when you’re relatively confident you won’t be spotted or you have a good exit strategy, i.e. a rock. Using 6th to guess enemy positions So you peaked out from behind a rock or whatever and you were spotted but the enemy could be in any one of three bushes. Be monogamous about it and expose yourself to only one bush at a time, get back to cover and wait a few seconds to see if you 6th goes off then try the other bushes. Suicide scouting Suicide scouting achieves goal #1 in the vision control manifesto in that it provides intel on enemy locations and distributions however at the start of a game unfortunately all this tells you is that the enemy started at their spawn. You know I’m pretty sure that the enemy usually starts at their spawn so this isn’t exactly game winning info and I don’t recommend suicide scouting unless it’s a crazy arty party with 8 per side and you stand a 80%+ chance of your actions resulting 4+ of them being taken out. As anyone reading this guide should already know, suicide scouting is for bads. Granted occasionally an active scouting run goes wrong and you die early but that’s not the same as charging into the enemy base at the start with the expectation of getting killed in the first 30 seconds. There is a lot more that can be said for effective vision control but I’ll leave it for another guide or another player. Replay section: Malinovka...a scout's best friend. lol @ 15 detected, 3 killed 7 damaged and 4800 on spotting for 0 damage returned. A bunch more top replays in a zip file: I have a list of good replays available upon request. Please make your request in this section: If a Mod wants to move this to a guide section which I could not find then feel free. And just one more thing before you go, fuck arty.
  23. The Matilda, a Tier-IV tank that is often underrated and ridiculed for its ponderously slow speed. However, it makes up its lack of speed with many other great strengths. For me, the Matilda is a Tier-V heavy in all but speed, HP, and damage-per-shot. Tank Stats: Hit Points: 340 HP (370 with upgraded turret)Engine Power: 174 hp (190 hp with upgraded engine)Speed Limit: 24 km/h (about 15 mp/h)Hull Traverse: 34 deg/sTurret Traverse: 34 deg/s Power/Wt Ratio 6.57 hp/t (7.17 hp/t with upgraded engine)Hull Armor: 75/70/55 mmTurret Armor: 75/75/75 mmView Range: 330 m (340 m with upgraded turret)Signal Range 350 m (450 m with top radio)Crew: 4Commander (Radio Operator)GunnerDriverLoaderGun Stats:Name: QF 2-pdr Mk. X-BAmmo Count: 92Average Damage: 55/55 HPAverage Penetration: 121/145 mmAmmo Costs: 35/800 (2 Gold)Fire Rate: 28.57 r/m (2.1 second reload)Accuracy: 0.36 mAim Time: 1.9 sDepression/Elevation: -10°/+20°Now with the numbers out of the way. The Matilda, while listed as a Tier-4 Medium, plays more like a Heavy. While slow, it has armor that is comparable to a KV-1. The Matilda has great front armor with a small, compact, and well-angled 75mm front. The sides, while a decent 70mm, is mostly flat. It's long, narrow profile makes sidescraping somewhat feasible. The rear is a reasonable 55. The turret is 75mm all-around. In games where it is top tank, you can safely ignore all other tanks. TDs and other Matildas are your only threats in Tier-IV. View and Radio Range for a Tier-IV is decent. However it's far too slow to be of any use of a scouting role except for late game. For mobility, the Matlida is a bit of an oddball. With a transmission that only allows 24 km/h of speed and an underwhelming power-to-weight ratio, the Matilda is undeniably slow. It doesn't get much of a boost going downhill and it absolutely crawls in poor terrain. Don't even think about going uphill in this tank. However the Matilda boasts a speedy hull and gun traverse speed 34 deg/s for a combined 68 deg/s traverse. Meaning that it's great for taking out suiscouts in your line of fire and is impossible for more mobile tanks to circle it. Now the gun. The top gun is the X-B. The most standout trait of this gun is its 121 average penetration, or a range of 91-151 mm of penetration. This thing can even penetrate higher tiered heavies at range. It can also penetrate itself on decent penetration rolls. The X-B is a high RoF, low-damage, high-pen gun. A single shot on it's own will do only a measly 41-69, but it can throw damage out every two seconds with virtually guaranteed penetration. APCR gives a modest boost to penetration, use it as extra insurance to penetrate harder targets. It's great for taking out tanks that are tunnel-visioned on other targets. It also has a great psychological impact, throwing out penetrating shots every two seconds, while for meager damage, can rattle poorer players. Another great aspect of the gun is the 10 degrees of depression and 75mm of front turret armor. The Matilda can be a great hull-down sniper tank where it can't afford to have it's meager HP pool touched. Pros: Armor: this tank is outright impervious to all lower-tier tanks and can bounce bigger guns as well.Penetration: the X-B can reliably penetrate even Tier-VI tanks.High RoF: my Matilda boasts a 1.77 second reload.Quick Traverse: with 68 deg/s combined hull and gun traverse, it can always face threats head on, and can retaliate reliably against circling tanks.Excellent Depression: with -10 degrees of depression, it can easily hull-down with its 75mm thick turret.Accurate on the Move: The X-B has a "miss fast" mentality. Any misses can be followed up quickly on with a penetrating hit.Often Underestimated: there is a certain lack of "fear factor" to the Matilda and is a relative unknown.Cons:HP: as a Tier-IV tank, it's HP is average. However as a "heavy" its HP pool is meager. Penetrations are costly and it can be taken down easily by higher tiered tanks and HEAT-derps that are common at Tier-V. It's possibly to be one-shotted by M4/PzIV HEAT shells and TDs that can also use HEAT.Slow: This goes without saying. A roflstomp means you're too far behind to contribute and its slow speed makes it inflexible to changing fronts.Low Alpha: At only 50 average damage per shot, even Tier-III tanks need multiple hits to down.Suggested Equipment:Rammer: Maximize your already high RoF.Vents: RoF, Aim time, AccuracyEnhanced Gun Laying Drive: Keeps Aim time in line with RoFToolbox: Cut down track repair timeCoated Optics: Maximize late-game use of your accuracySuggested Consumables:Repair KitHealth KitPremium Repair KitCrew Skills:Commander: Sixth Sense, Repair, BIA, Recon/Situational AwarenessGunner: Snap Shot, Repair, BIA, Designated TargetDriver: Off-road Driving, Repair, BIALoader: Repair, Adrenaline Rush, BIAClosing notes: this is my first tank guide and I'm just doing a tank I'm familiar with in my limited experience. Any sections to change/add and suggestions I will be glad to take. Sources: 200 Matilda battles with a 60% WRWoT Wiki
  24. The Lowe is a fine tank IMO, even with all the new premiums. while it may not pad stats like the IS-6 / KV-5, it will still print credits. Stats: HP: 1650 - One of the highest HP tier 8 heavies. don't be afraid to take a hit in order to fulfill your objective. Traverse: 24 hull / 23 turret - better traverse than T34, and enough to keep up with most tanks that try to flank you Speed: 35 - you will usually only hit this when going down hill. Engine : 800 HP, for ~8.6 HP/ton. This explains the low mobility on anything other than a road, and even road bound mobility is not all that great. Armor: Hull: 120/80/80 Your front hull is 120mm sloped, giving it decent protection other than the LFP, which should be protected as much as possible. the 80mm of side armor and large tracks can eat some shots, so make sure to angle. an angled Lowe is suprisingly hard to penetrate for 175-200mm pen class guns. however, higher penetration guns will not have much trouble getting through the armor unless rng messes with them. Turret: 120/80/80. Your turret, on the other hand, is heavily armored frontally due to the ginormous mantlet, which nobody in their right mind will shoot at unless they are shooting HEAT from a tier 10 TD (which says a lot about the protection level. the side and rear armor is not much to write home about, as it is similar to the tiger 2. However, the very thin cheeks next to the mantlet can be penetrated by accurate guns. wiggling your turret will help stop this as the sides are autobounce angle from the front. Also, the tank has good gun depresison: This allows you, surprisingly, to hull down. A hull down Lowe is even harder to kill than an angled one. ------------------------------------------ The Gun: The 105mm gun that is mounted on the Lowe is one of the best guns in the game. Accurate, with high penetration and acceptable damage, it is able to damage any tank the Lowe can face. the gold rounds are 294mm penetration if you need them. The only downside hs the relatively slow ROF, with a 10.12 sec reload with Vents and a Rammer. BIA drops the reload to 9.90 sec. ------------------------------------------ Loadout: The Lowe carries 40 rounds of ammunition, which can be set up several ways. My current setup is 30/5/5. The proportions of ammo can change, but you always want to carry plenty of AP (no brainer). Carrying HE is up to you. Equipment: I use Rammer/Vents/VertStab (has been moved to another tank in this picture). other choices are CO2 fuel tanks (help with fires), or Optics (to argument the tank's sniping capabilities). Consumables: Repair kit / Med kit / Auto fire extinguisher. fire extinguisher is MANDATORY as you WILL get set on fire. Crew skills: 6th sense (no brainer), repairs, preventitive maintinence, clutch breaking, firefighting, gunnery skills. play styles: top tier: you can be a bully, taking the front lines and using the HP to tank damage. mid and low tier in the battle: play second line support, using your accurate gun to damage stuff and hit weakpoints at range. You can hull down for major annoyance, as the mantlet can stop most tier 9 and 10 guns. Happy tanking!