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  1. WoT used to be my single most-played game up until October of last year when Armored Warfare came out. I basically switched all my focus to the new title and was so happy about with a lot of the new systems that I didn't think I'd ever go back to WoT. However, lengthy PVP matchmaking cues and a pretty ridiculous credit drought have taken a toll on my excitement and I now find myself installing the newest client from WG after not so much as opening the launcher for five months. I really like the historic setting better than the modern one, and I'm such a WWII nerd that I guess the return was inevitable, especially now with the new patch I've been reading about on the subreddit. My question to the community is this: What's been going on since I left? I know that the new physics engine is hear and apparently there are new tank lines, but I have no idea how the meta has shifted (if at all) or what new tanks are worth going for. If anyone could give a summary of what's happened since the Japanese heavies, that would be greatly appreciated Looking forward to once again seeing y'all out there on the battlefield. P.S. - Please tell me they finally removed the waffle.
  2. Terekhov

    Getting Meds, w/o a Prescription.

    It's been a loong time coming, but somewhere in the middle of a 16 hour session last night, I finally started to get meds, and perhaps higher-level play in general Before, whether due to not enough map knowledge or my own mental habit of trying to find patterns in everything - probably both - I was never able to allow myself the flexibility to play meds to their potential. For each med, I'd either treat it like a (lightly armored) TD, or a heavy tank. Naturally, neither quite worked. However, I've been playing a lot of T-34-85 recently, and perhaps due to it being a bit more forgiving, have started to learn the balance playing meds requires. In reality, however, I think the changes are twofold. Yes, I'm learning when to expose myself, advance or retreat as a med, but I'm also getting more flexible in general: watching for opportunities, being willing to fall back even if I want to just take "one more shot", etc. This heightened awareness/flexibility is paying off, and fast: I had my fair share of derps as usual last night, but my average WN8 jump three hundred points over 100 games (i.e. 5% of my total games in WoT, decent sample size) - from an average of 1k, to 1300+. For most of the night it was actually hovering closer to 1500, but I kept playing when I should have stopped, unfortunately. Still plenty of ground to cover, but considering that my minimum mental "that game was acceptable" standard has gone from 1250 to 1900 in the space of one session, I'm pretty happy with my progress this month. tl;dr Better map awareness + better tactical mechanics + forcing myself to play smart => Profit (Higher WN8 and personal standards)
  3. I've had quite a few instances of no damage critical hits that don't make sense unless there is some sort of game mechanic I don't understand. How can shots into the side of a turret that leave a penetration mark half way between the turret ring and top of the turret be no damage critical hits? I've seen this happen too often when shooting into the side of the E75 and Tiger II turret along with a few times into the side of a T34 and T29 turret. How can shots into the lower glacis of a tank be a no damage critical hit? How can two shots into the rear center of a T29's hull through the engine compartment be no damage critical hits? If I damage an important part of the drivetrain, shouldn't it remove hitpoints? Basically, how can you damage a transmission, engine, or ammo rack and have the shot not do any hit points of damage at all? I haven't been able to find anything offical that says shooting the engien or transmission won't cause any hitpoints of damage.
  4. Just thought i would start this topic because i was wondering where the havok engine went? has anyone heard anything about it or did wargaming forget about it, because its been a year now and when they did the ASAP video on it looked like it would be a huge change to the game I understand if it is going to take a while to put this new engine into the game but in the ASAP video he said 9.0 and its 9.3 now so its past due... if wargaming just gave us a little update I would be happy again he did say this year so I guess there's a little time left
  5. Here's a quick summation of why invisitanks happen, even during a peek-a-boo, but also the action-reaction cycles of those situations. A poster @ NA WoT forums complained about Romulan tanks... and well, my post there is only going to be forgotten anyway, so I might as well put it here where people give a damn. More Romulan cloaking devices found. His beef was summed up in the following video video. My responses buried on the bottom of page 3; the wasted breathe and breathtaking Paint.NET skills ridiculous South Park-calibre box tanks shan't go to waste. ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ Sight lines (server vision checks) are drawn from the center of objects on your tank -- hull and turret -- such that your most-distant corner sprocket can be seen first by a passive tank parked on an edge. All of that foliage in your face and between you and the E100 doesn't help either. It's gimmicky but that's the way it is. Spotting Mechanics: It's in a spoiler because this is a touch esoteric. Spoiler Basically ANGLES: I'll draw a Paint.NET file since my coffee is still scalding: Note: of course, these are not perfectly to scale, but I did, in fact, draw 2 yellow lines from the T34 HT analogue, and it displays an important caveat: when you pie a corner by moving forward: your 2 vision checking areas can overlap -- so it really puts you at a disadvantage. (Whereas you can see with the E100 HT analogue, depending on the exact model and forward / center / rear turret placement of a vehicle, it can have overlapping spot-check lines, increasing the coverage) Finally, the E100 is very tall, and might have a spot check going over bushes you cannot, to see your front hull. did mention some time long after 6.4 they changed or added spot checking areas IIRC, but having played through many a patch cycle, I can tell you that they haven't really changed the scenario above. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ====================================== HOW TO DEAL WITH IT: 1) patience if that's an option; of course, there's a very simple technique available to at least rule-out the presence of a tank there with some confidence of probability: 2) when you get to the suspected camp position of a tank, and you are CONFIDENT YOU ARE NOT CURRENTLY SPOTTED, you poke just ... a bit and back off. IF your lightbulb pops: you can bet poking hard and fast is gonna hurt -- a lot. Especially since it could be that worst-case scenario -- high-armor + alpha turreted heavy. And Patton knows what else. 3) Once a fight is joined in these situations, you'll want to bait the defender into shooting first and bouncing / missing / tracking you. A well-disciplined or skilled defender probably won't make the mistake, but many, many players do, and then they can be put into an increasingly negative action/reaction cycle. 4) in the sillier, mutually-stacked peek-a-boo fights, target selection is everything. *Did the very forward guy back up into a teammate? Well, make him pay while he's still exposed. *If possible, track the one in behind, trapping 2 tanks! (this is exceedingly rare) *Is there a tank in the rear of that stack with crappy armor? Often, he'll get left hanging in the wind by his bigger teammates in front, or can be caught off guard *SECURING A KILL IN THESE SITUATIONS IS OFTEN VITAL -- but only provided it's one of the tanks with actually relevant firepower / armor in this situation. Over-pieing to kill a medium tank who mostly wasn't penning people is a waste of hit points. Taking a shot, or even 2, but KILLING the biggest / toughest tank or best-damaging-output PLAYER (often a unicum, but just as often a solid green or blue purple) often IS worth it. *just as important a consideration -- taking shots for teammates, if you have the armor for it. The peeking side which conserves guns/lives usually prevails. 5) not an additional tactic but of absolute importance: you need to know your tank's armor profiles in this situation -- how reliable the off-angling glacis armor becomes, your back up speed, how exposed your sprocket is (permatrack here is quickly lethal, esp. tier 9+ matches) -- and your own tank's soft-gun stats and ability to work against enemy armor. It's rarely over quick, except for enormous, concerted pushes, or defenders against hapless, piecemeal attacks. =========== On your video: one last pointer: regardless of why/how the spotting works, the lightbulb gives you an edge to work with. When that allied Tortoise dies, it was his fading (residual) spot which timed out -- and made the E100 go invisible. At least, based on when you start your video, this is a reasonable inference. When you aggressively chase those vehicles, the worst case scenario is similar to what happened -- they actively disappear while you pie foliage and hard cover (the hill side) while you are lit the entire time. As it were, you and the E100 were mutually unspotted to each other -- you had an initial advantage which died with the Tortoise. (you were operating with knowledge of the E100, but not him, of you -- allied spotting) This is where my diagram kicks in. So the allied death reset the spotting cycle, and that E100 had the critical advantage of the defending spotting mechanics (and possibly the E100's height) and of course, tier/firepower. If anyone wants to add to this, clarify, pigeonhole -- esp. with-respect-to updates to the spotting mechanics ever mentioned in FTR which didn't make it to the NA WoT wiki -- please do so.
  6. I recently asked a question about whether or not I should carry HEAT rounds in my Bat Chat 25t, answer was no, and I've been doing well without them. After searching the forums, I couldn't find the answer to my question, also I checked the Wiki's to no avail. So I was wondering when do you use HEAT, as most of the tanks that I've played in so far have APCR as there premium ammunition. As I understand it so far is that HEAT like HE does not lose penetration over distance, but it get no normalization. In what situations would it be necessary to use HEAT, and how exactly does HEAT work. Thanks, Mjolnir
  7. So i wanted to know how effective the levels of a crew's training are. For Example, the loader's level effects how fast you reload but does a 100% trained loader give you 10% faster reload speed than someone with a 90% loader?
  8. So for my russian heavy crew commander can get both and i wanted to know if one was superior to the other?
  9. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game ( Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe ( Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting ( How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor ( You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics ( Tank selection( There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo ( There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning ( This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks( French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT General hints ( Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful( Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints ( 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts