Assassin7

Can you create a sensor that will prevent your car from starting unless it is in proximity?

75 posts in this topic

The issue is that insurance companies will typically only look at

Year - Model - Mileage

then estimate whether to write it off based on a very broad definition of repairs (worst case scenario almost). Hence they want to replace the whole door for a dent

Imagine though, if you fix it yourself (not through insurance approved bodyshop). Your premium is probably going to go up because they are insuring unknown craftsmanship

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They are apparently wanting to "repair" a whole bunch of different stuff that doesnt need repairing - an extra $1000 worth to be exact. And im bot sure how the fuck they got 1000 more because I looked and a whole new door from a pick a part place costs $80 and The quote from the wrapper to redo the door was $80. So I have no idea where the extra $840 is going. 

 

The asessor also said there was a giant ass dent in the door that doesnt exist at all. 

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2 hours ago, Assassin7 said:

They are apparently wanting to "repair" a whole bunch of different stuff that doesnt need repairing - an extra $1000 worth to be exact. And im bot sure how the fuck they got 1000 more because I looked and a whole new door from a pick a part place costs $80 and The quote from the wrapper to redo the door was $80. So I have no idea where the extra $840 is going. 

 

The asessor also said there was a giant ass dent in the door that doesnt exist at all. 

Most likely they just want it off their books. Its dickish, but understandable on their part, theyre obsessed with stats, which basically tell them that a 18-25 yo Male driving a somewhat modified older car (even if it is just cosmetic) is comparatively risky. Basically they dont trust you to not cost them more money further down the track, so they just want it gone. 

1k of insurance with a $300 excess is laughable. The excess means theres no point claiming minor repairs, and anything more major is probably going to be nudging into write off territory. Honestly, if I were you Id just take the money, Im not sure that insurance policy is even worth having. 

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What the hell is wrong with Western insurance companies? They act like your car belongs to them. 

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4 hours ago, MacusFlash said:

What the hell is wrong with Western insurance companies? They act like your car belongs to them. 

Well, in a way they do - they are liable not only for damages caused to their clients, but for damages caused by their clients.  The minute you make a claim of any kind - you become a liability to them because you have literally eaten up every bit of profit they will ever make off of you, so they want you off of their roster.  

Nice accommodating insurance companies that always try to help their customers don't stay in business for very long.  They exist because you are required to have insurance and you need to be protected from losing your house in case you run off the road and kill somebody, otherwise its generally not worth it to even call them. 

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9 hours ago, Assassin7 said:

They are apparently wanting to "repair" a whole bunch of different stuff that doesnt need repairing - an extra $1000 worth to be exact. And im bot sure how the fuck they got 1000 more because I looked and a whole new door from a pick a part place costs $80 and The quote from the wrapper to redo the door was $80. So I have no idea where the extra $840 is going. 

 

The asessor also said there was a giant ass dent in the door that doesnt exist at all. 

They are likely not quoting a new wrap job, but the cost to take a replacement door and have it paint-matched to either the original color on file, or the current color. 

I was rear-ended in my 2003 Jeep Wrangler, and the insurance payout for me to replace the tail gate and have it repainted was $2000 USD. I bought an aluminum aftermarket tailgate for $250 and painted it myself. Haha. Sorry for the side story, but it's the paint job that is so expensive.

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15 hours ago, MAJEST1C said:

Damn, I remember one of my friend got his car stolen only to find it driven a mile or so away. Also surprisingly someone saw off my dad's MDX catalytic converter 4 years ago, I don't even know how he got away (It was in a packed parking lot)... 

Stolen cars are (almost) always  (written then auctioned) sold off for liability reasons, basically if you get your car back and theres an issue the company could be liable, so they blanket policy it, which again is dumb.

13 hours ago, Assassin7 said:

They are apparently wanting to "repair" a whole bunch of different stuff that doesnt need repairing - an extra $1000 worth to be exact. And im bot sure how the fuck they got 1000 more because I looked and a whole new door from a pick a part place costs $80 and The quote from the wrapper to redo the door was $80. So I have no idea where the extra $840 is going. 

 

The asessor also said there was a giant ass dent in the door that doesnt exist at all. 

I can't speak for it cause I don't have pictures of the 'dent' but I would like to see, as finding this damage is my job for the auction/salvage yard and thats the job im going to school for.

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4 hours ago, RunninKurt said:

They are likely not quoting a new wrap job, but the cost to take a replacement door and have it paint-matched to either the original color on file, or the current color. 

I was rear-ended in my 2003 Jeep Wrangler, and the insurance payout for me to replace the tail gate and have it repainted was $2000 USD. I bought an aluminum aftermarket tailgate for $250 and painted it myself. Haha. Sorry for the side story, but it's the paint job that is so expensive.

The assessor on the phone specifically said to get it rewrapped, so I dunno about paint.

We assume he was talking about replacing EVERYTHING with Brand new parts, rather than the logical thing and using second hand parts which is what the mechanic is doing. 

32 minutes ago, Curo said:

I can't speak for it cause I don't have pictures of the 'dent' but I would like to see, as finding this damage is my job for the auction/salvage yard and thats the job im going to school for.

Ill give you a picture of the door later today, my mothers got my car atm.

But I am serious, theres no fucking dent in that door. I know theres no dent because we spent a full fucking day sanding the thing down and patching out all of the dents - specifically in that door, before getting the car wrapped. And i looked at it yesterday to find there was still no dents whatsoever. 

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generally they want to replace things with new parts, its considered better that second hand electrical or if the older door locks are worn out and jam, theres just less failures and thus less liability. again its fairly stupid, a mechanic should have to inspect any work done, but used parts should be considered.

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No insurance company in the US would ever sign off on used parts due to our rather enthusiastic legal system.  If you have a crash and kill somebody, the opposing council is going to subpoena your insurance records, the minute they see payment for 'sub-standard' work, your insurer will become a co-defendant for deliberately putting an unsafe vehicle back on the road to save costs.  Remember, its not about common sense or about being right, its about mitigating the risk to shareholders.

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Well fuck them. Im not letting them write off a car in absolutely perfect condition simply because they want to fix it with brand new parts instead of second hand parts. 

I would argue that while I bought it for 1100, it would be worth at least 1500 by now after the wrap (because the paint job was what we haggled on), maybe even 2K. 

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1 hour ago, Assassin7 said:

Well fuck them. Im not letting them write off a car in absolutely perfect condition simply because they want to fix it with brand new parts instead of second hand parts. 

I would argue that while I bought it for 1100, it would be worth at least 1500 by now after the wrap (because the paint job was what we haggled on), maybe even 2K. 

Remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

:feelsbad:

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2 minutes ago, jackquerudo said:

Remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

:feelsbad:

Nah, the paint was chipped and scratched and faded and had been keyed and everything. The wrap fixes it completely so its in perfect condition now. We even fixed most of the dents so its fine tbh.

Even if I redid it in the original colour (black) instead of the metallic blue i chose it would still be worth that. 

I havent changed anything else except put some aftermarket tail lights in, and I can still put the originals back in if I want. 

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What I actually meant was that, the price you think your car is worth is not necessarily what the insurance company thinks.

Despite it looking very new, insurance companies also have to worry about potential chassis rust underneath

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1 hour ago, jackquerudo said:

What I actually meant was that, the price you think your car is worth is not necessarily what the insurance company thinks.

Despite it looking very new, insurance companies also have to worry about potential chassis rust underneath

It's not necessarily what other people would pay for it either.

Paying to get your car restored/repaired, you're very unlikely to make that money back when you sell it later on, much less making a profit on it.

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17 hours ago, karl0ssus1 said:

1k of insurance with a $300 excess is laughable. The excess means theres no point claiming minor repairs, and anything more major is probably going to be nudging into write off territory. Honestly, if I were you Id just take the money, Im not sure that insurance policy is even worth having. 

its third party fire and theft, its not a full coverage policy. because it was attempted theft it counts though.

it was basically for just incase I crash into someones Ferrari for instance. 

 

im going to call another insurance company and ask if they would accept a policy on a written-off-but-not-really-written-off-but-in-completely-road-legal-condition car

 

edit: they will. 

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So update: they offered a $350 write off settlement where I keep it.

Thats completely laughable. I basically told them to fuck off. Then I told them their assessor was wrong. 

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Right, heres what Im going to do:

Im going to Wire a killswitch into the Starter motor, that is activated by a hidden switch im the cabin. when off it will just disable the wire running to the starter motor so it just doesn't start. and hopefully after hiding the switch either as a fake button/switch in the dash itself, or just hiding it somewhere out of the way, they won't be able to start it (and even if they do find the switch they might not know what it does) that is along with a Club. 

while it won't stop the ignition system being dismantled again, it will stop the car being stolen. 

im also going to put an "alarm" system in it consisting of a flashing LED visible through the windscreen. just because. 

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4 hours ago, Assassin7 said:

Right, heres what Im going to do:

Im going to Wire a killswitch into the Starter motor, that is activated by a hidden switch im the cabin. when off it will just disable the wire running to the starter motor so it just doesn't start. and hopefully after hiding the switch either as a fake button/switch in the dash itself, or just hiding it somewhere out of the way, they won't be able to start it (and even if they do find the switch they might not know what it does) that is along with a Club. 

while it won't stop the ignition system being dismantled again, it will stop the car being stolen. 

im also going to put an "alarm" system in it consisting of a flashing LED visible through the windscreen. just because. 

I was going to suggest to you to wire a kill switch into the car :D. You can wire it from the back of the ignition too instead of the starter. Don't put it under the driver seat,that's the first place they'll check. I had mine up behind the glove box in my CRX , loads of room up there.

 

 

Just a couple of points.

 

Looking at that picture of what that bastard did to your car..

 

He should have been gone,he had all the hard work done! He had the ignition barrel out,he could have started the car with a tea spoon!

 

So he either got spooked by someone/something or he's a complete fucking imbecile.

 

Another possibility and the most plausible is your car has an early form of immobilisation which is done via a chip in the key. Does your key have a plastic body on it,or is it solid metal?

 

If it has plastic body on it than it probably has a chip in it and that's the reason your car isn't gone!

 

I may be wrong,my memory is a little sketchy,but if you turn on the ignition in your car and you can see a little green key symbol on the clocks then you have a key with a chip in it. :-)

 

 

 

P.s another simple kill switch to fit and the never think to look is put one in series with the live going to the fuel pump in the boot(trunk?)

 

 

Pps.

Make sure he didn't snap the steering lock in the ignition! The little metal lug can sometimes drop back into the hole and your steering could lock whilst driving! Get it checked out.

 

What a shitty feeling when some wrecks your pride and joy :-(

 

 

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He did get spooked. My friend parked up next to my car, saw someone not me in it, and was like "wtf whos that in Asassians car" 30 more seconds and it would of been down the road. Literally. 

Also the steering lock is out, its fine so it wont lock up like that. 

And the key has a plastic body, but I got a new key cut and have been using that key instead of the original so it probably doesnt have a chip. 

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Does the US have insurers who specialise in classic cars? Here there are a number who will insure old cars are aware that their owners probably want to keep as much of them as they can.

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well my cars back from being fixed, it cost $726 - quite a far cry from the quoted $1600 by the insurance company.

it also now has a dark green door handle, along with now 2 keys - ine for the drivers door and ignition, and the old one for the passengers door and the boot. lol. 

i bought a steering wheel lock, which doesn't seem to work very well when attatched to the steering wheel (you can turn the wheel quite far when its attatched, and only attatches in very limited ways without it pressing on the horn) so Instead I've figured a way to lock the gear lever and handbrake with it so neither of those things can move, which is probably more effective tbh. 

 

also I've had another idea, of wiring the killswitch in to an alarm, so if someone attempts to start the car while the killswitch is active, not only will it not turn on but will sound a massive screaming alarm 24/7 until the killswitch is turned off, thus resetting it. (though that would mean that if I leave it in the carpark all day, and someone tries to steal it like an hour later, its gonna have an alarm screaming until I get back to it - though it does also mean that even if they manage to somehow get it started anyway, they're gonna be driving down the road with a screaming alarm)

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10 hours ago, Assassin7 said:

I bought a steering wheel lock, which doesn't seem to work very well when attatched to the steering wheel (you can turn the wheel quite far when its attatched, and only attatches in very limited ways without it pressing on the horn) so Instead I've figured a way to lock the gear lever and handbrake with it so neither of those things can move, which is probably more effective tbh.

It's less important that it works, than that it appears to work. Generally would-be thieves will see the lock and just move on to an easier to steal car. It's a deterrent as much as an immobiliser.

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35 minutes ago, BattleMetalChris said:

It's less important that it works, than that it appears to work. Generally would-be thieves will see the lock and just move on to an easier to steal car. It's a deterrent as much as an immobiliser.

well lets hope they see it attached to the gear lever before they attempt to break into it...

im pretty confident it won't be going anywhere with that lock on it, I tried my absolute best for about 15 mins to get it off without unlocking it and failed, and you can't take the handbrake off OR take it out of park while its like that, but the carpark is covered and its kinda dark in there and its not extremely visible. but we'll see i guess. 

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On ‎10‎/‎14‎/‎2016 at 3:20 AM, Assassin7 said:

Right, heres what Im going to do:

Im going to Wire a killswitch into the Starter motor, that is activated by a hidden switch im the cabin. when off it will just disable the wire running to the starter motor so it just doesn't start. and hopefully after hiding the switch either as a fake button/switch in the dash itself, or just hiding it somewhere out of the way, they won't be able to start it (and even if they do find the switch they might not know what it does) that is along with a Club. 

while it won't stop the ignition system being dismantled again, it will stop the car being stolen. 

im also going to put an "alarm" system in it consisting of a flashing LED visible through the windscreen. just because. 

Best idea.

In poorer countries back in the day, people would simply have a simple flow cock switch for the gas line from the tank to the engine ( in many cars it runs along the driver side running boards under the chassis.)  The thief could start the car, drive for about 100 yards to a quarter of a mile and then the motor died on them from lack of fuel.  Worked very well in my wifes native country of Panama.  They wealthy use the high tech stuff while the lower income people just use practical stuff like I mentioned.  Good luck.

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