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  1. 5 points
    Dissidence's Guide to Competence in Tanking For Baddies (<49%) I realize I've never really put in the effort to write out a whole guide before, so this one will be my first (and lengthy) one. I'm putting this together because on the WOT forums and here in two days, I've seen a number of players with bad stats ask about improving...which is awesome. There are a lot of amazing guides out there for how to play specific tanks, and a lot of time has been spent on guides for making the jump from a good player to a great one (something I'm still working on, I might add). But I intend this fully for people who are just first starting out to improve and want to win more and tank better, and I intend it to be holistic in its approach since I don't think all this information has been put into one place. First, a little bit about me: I wuz once a baddy. I started playing in 0.6.7 (aka the 6.7 patch). 46% and probably 500 efficiency (although it might have been higher since at the time old efficiency was in use, and I was great at padding cap points early, even when they didn't mean much). My survival rate was below 25% in every tank I played, my average damage hovering around the 100 mark as I reached tiers 4 and 5 for the first time, and my average battle time was under 4 minutes. I averaged less than a kill every two games, and did about 60% of my own HP in damage. I continued playing stupidly like this until I had almost 2000 battles under my belt, believing that the goal was to progress up the tiers as fast as I could, and that dying and readying up for the next battle in a new tank was the best way to do this. I played under the old (pre 8.0) matchmaker, so once I reached Tier 6 (stock), I got the joy of fighting Tier 10's. Another statistic was my hit rate. At one point with over 1000 games, it was 28%. The first line I went up was the American line because I wanted a Sherman. I hated the T1 Cunningham and did horrendously in it, rushed through the M2 LT and T2 MT, learning nothing in the process, suicide scouted like a boss in my M3 Stuart (8 kills in 50 games, 2 of them by ramming!) before I gave up on that line completely (I got a scout medal! I'm gud@tanx!). I'd tried the Leichttraktor, done better than in the Cunningham, but the Panther, Tiger, Maus and all the tanks I really wanted in that line were far away so I'd stopped progressing on that line until I got the Sherman. I tried the MS-1, but nothing more, as I was going to "wait" to play the Russians since they had really inaccurate guns. If I could barely hit the target in American tanks, surely the Russian tanks would be so much worse. I'd tried a few tank destroyers (side note: today they are statistically my best class, although I haven't played any past Tier 7, a spot I will be correcting in the coming months), and found them utterly pointless with no armor and no turret. I'd tried arty, but it bored me, and I didn't really know what to do anyway. Every now and then I'd lolshot something, but it wasn't as interesting to me as blowing things up with direct fire. When I got to the M3 Lee, which had a decent HP pool and didn't feel like a one shot to everything it faced like every other tank I ever played seemed to (could it have been me?), I began to understand TD play a little, as well as the value of using bushes for camo. Unfortunately, I did not learn how to properly use bushes for camo when actually firing my gun. So generating my first 4 kill game was nice when the (somehow even worse) baddies stayed still in the open and allowed me to keep shooting them even after I'd revealed myself, but generally in the Lee, I'd get spotted after my first shot and promptly blown to pieces. But at least I'd learned something. Still, I sucked. But I was progressing in the game, so it wasn't all that bad. (IPLAY4FUN GUYZZZ !!!) By this time I'd gotten to the Sherman (FINALLY! THOZE THINGZ ARE SO OP! I CAN'T KILL ONE IN MY M3 STOOART...ZEE AP ROUNDZ...ZEY DO NAHHH-TING!!!). I'd also progressed in the German line to the Pz IV and Pz III/IV, and the Russian line to the T-28 and A-20. I hated the A-20, boy I hated that thing. Still do. It was the last tank I ever suiscouted in, but I wanted a T-34. At this point, with lots of battles, I was sick of getting one shotted/killed and began taking steps to improve. I began setting a few goals: Survive 25% of the time. 40% hit ratio. Kill 5 tanks in a game. Positive K/D ratio in a tank. 0.5 Kills Per Game overall These were the very first goals I ever set for myself in WOT. Very modest. I began playing more conservatively, staying to watch good players play, and learning a little bit about the maps. I also stopped hoping for armor to work and praying for the enemy to be stock, and started learning how to use it, or how to not rely on armor and just avoid getting hit. By the end of the T-28, I'd achieved 40% hit ratio. My Sherman exceeded 25% survival rate and had positive K/D ratio, and I'd successfully killed 5 tanks in game twice - once in my T-28, and once in my PzIV, which was actually amazing once it was fully upgraded. I couldn't believe I had ever hated it, I mean who thought that the PzIV would suck stock, right? I finally reached Tier 6. Still a baddie at 47%, with thousands of battles. I still hadn't spent a dime on the game. WOT, it should be added, was and is really the only "game" I play. Every now and then I fire up the PS2 to play old classic, and I'll play games with friends if they have them, and once in a blue moon on my computer I'll run NHL Eastside Hockey Manager 07 (best hockey managerial sim ever, shame they stopped making it), but WOT is really it. Finally I made a conscious choice to begin improving. This is the part where I started Googling, reading the forums, and lurning abowt tanx. I also invested in a premium account to shorten my grinds, and started training my tank crews (a personal choice to do so many times since I collect tanks in game and have over 50). I bought my first 2 Tier 8 premiums, a huge mistake at the time based on early returns, but a humbling experience that showed me I had lots to learn before I could ever hope to be ready for Tier 8 gameplay, which is why they collected dust in my garage for months after until I'd felt I'd learned enough about the game to try them again. Garbad's posts in particular were enlightening. Here was a guy who was good at the game giving tips and advice to bad players like myself. I read through his and some of the other posters' threads - many of whom post on this site now as well, and some who have already quit the game altogether. The main point that stuck with me was this - tanks should do at least their HP in damage every game. My ratio was around 60%. Clearly I was doing it wrong. From that point on, I set out to improve my win rate to 50%, and someday get my damage ratio over 100%, which was going to take a VERY long time because of the amount of damage I had to deal to catch how much damage I had already taken. Now, thousands of battles later, I've reached true 52%, and my efficiency and WN7 are finally green (although my efficiency can easily go back south with a bad night...but it is trending upward!), so I write this guide so that others who are in that <49% range can take the first basic steps needed to get their win rate over 50% and their Eff and WN7 over 1000 (what I believe to be the benchmark for a "competent" player). Once you get there, look to players more talented than I for how to improve further, as I believe only the 56%+ and 1700+ crowd can truly help you with that. Part One: Statistics - Recognize the Problem, Pay attention to stats. Self explanatory. You've recognized the problem, but you don't really understand what you can be doing better. The first thing you need to do is understand how your performance stacks up against others. World of Tanks is actually horrible at this. You can play tens of thousands of battles without ever having a clue you are bad unless you use mods, the internet, or the well hidden (for beginners) community features like the in game chat to compare your statistics with someone else's. Of course, this is because stats don't appear in game AT ALL (unless you add a mod). To start tracking your performance, there are a number of great tools you can use: -Download XVM. I don't have a one stop link like I used for the 8.5 patch (side note: you will have to reinstall a new version of XVM for each patch, so keep current on it when your game client updates). However, despite the negativity surrounding it, XVM will teach you who the good players are on both sides. If you should die while in battle...do not leave...watch the good players on your team and see what they do. You will improve just by watching these players play. Second, XVM will also show you your own performance relative to others in battle. But don't be a dick. Don't troll someone with bad stats - give them a chance to suck first, before you do. Likewise, when someone suggests something that your future experiences will teach you is stupid (ie a Tier 8 premium tank with <1000 battles telling everyone to rush valley on Lakeville), you can use stats to try and end that argument in the hopes your team will discount the stupid advice. But in short, don't be a dick. Use it to measure your performance, figure out who the key tanks you have to try and kill are, and see where your gun might be needed in battle. Also, ignore the "odds" if your version of XVM has them enabled. To begin improving your play, you're going to need to learn how to beat the odds to claim victory in a match. <50% chance to win does NOT = a loss. If you can manage the complicated install instructions, XVM is available at http://www.curse.com/wot-mods/worldoftanks - there are several different versions of XVM available, each is set up slightly differently. -Use WOTLabs.net to track your performance: http://wotlabs.net - simply enter your username, and you will see your overall stats, as well as your 24 hour, 7 day, 30 day, and 60 day stats. This is vital. As you improve, you want to see a lot of green in the 24/7/30/60 columns. If you're failing to progress, you'll see red (indicating your performance is trending downward). The most important numbers are win rate, efficiency, and WN7. Average damage, while hugely important in game, is not very important on WOTLabs unless you are playing the same tiers, since your damage will tend to trend upwards as you reach into higher tier gameplay. -Use World of Tanks Dossier: http://wot-dossier.appspot.com/ - This app allows you to upload your dossier (directions are included for where to find it) which tracks ALMOST everything you do in your tanks. It does NOT track potential damage received (aka your ability to use armor effectively), nor does it track damage from spotting. However, it will show you damage, kills, cap points, defense points, enemies spotted - a complete breakdown of anything you've ever done in any of your tanks. You can also filter the results to only show you certain tiers or tank types. This can show you the detail of your performance. -Use Tank Tracker: http://www.vbaddict.net/wot.php - If dossier tool is 2D, this is 3D. This allows you to upload your dossier to the site where your performance will be tracked over time. You can also download an app called Active Dossier Uploader which will automatically update your dossier on the page and individual battles as well for even greater detail. This is like an even better version of WOT Dossier, as in essence it allows you to compare your Dossier from today vs. yesterday, to show if you made any improvement in gameplay. It also allows you to view the server wide performance for each tank, so you can compare your performance to the average player, and see how the top players do in that tank. There are other tools you can download, but these are the ones that worked best for me at that point in my tanking experience. Unfortunately a fifth, WOTstatistics for Greasemonkey, has not been updated in some time, and with the changes to how Wargaming displays player profiles on worldoftanks.com, is no longer workable. Part Two: Set Goals This is important. Pick an admirable series of short and long term goals that work for you. Here are some suggestions, and things you will want to focus on for each. -Hit Rate: If your hit rate is low, focus on hitting more tanks. This will encourage you to stop wasting ammo firing low probability shots (which is punishing financially at higher tiers), and will also allow you to be loaded when a good shot presents itself, instead of reloading because you jumped the gun early with a risky shot. -Survival Rate/Average Time of Battle: If your survival rate is low, you are probably rushing out and dying too fast. Do you have a high average tanks spotted per battle and low survival rate with low average battle time? Stop suicide scouting. Be more patient. When you are bottom or middle tier, try supporting your biggest tank by hanging with it and helping it. If you get damaged, retreat, and stay alive. See if you can find ways to damage enemies without getting shot in return (like when they're looking away from you). If you are playing heavy tanks and not surviving, are you angling your armor? -Damage/Kill Rates: If these rates are low, you're not playing well offensively. These could indicated a lot of things - are you missing the target? Are you not shooting enough? Are you failing to penetrate? Are you using the correct ammunition type for your gun and the targets you are facing? If you have a high damage rate and low kill rate, are you not finishing off tanks with low HP? If you have a high kill rate and low damage rate, are you leeching kills or failing to engage same tier targets in battle? Why do you not do more damage? -Spotted (Detections) Rate: If this rate is low, it often doesn't mean a lot, but if it's very low, it might. Are you sitting near your team's base the whole game, "protecting" it? If so, you are not helping your team. Yeah it's great to have a defender there if the enemy starts to capture your base, but more often than not, once that happens, the battle is already lost. You may be cursing at bad teams, and finding yourself with good damage done alone against 6 tanks each time, but perhaps things might have gone differently if your gun was at the front, putting the hurt on and delaying those tanks before they could finish off your teammates. Likewise, perhaps you might have absorbed a few hits, and possibly even taken some damage, but perhaps you doing so might have kept a teammate alive a little longer, who could have helped damaged the enemy some more with you. ^^^These are the #'s 1-4 things bad players do wrong in the game. The first step to being competent is not doing them anymore. Part Three: Learn Gameplay Mechanics In Depth While WoT itself does a terrible job explaining how gameplay works, the World of Tanks Wiki explains all of these: http://wiki.worldoftanks.com/Battle_Mechanics Go there, read that, study that like it's your bible, and begin to apply what you've learned in battle. Also start learning the parameters of YOUR tank and the tanks you are fighting against. If you have questions about any of the mechanics, feel free to post here in the forums, and someone will clarify the mechanic in action for you. Also, if you have friends on the game, make a training room and go play around to test what you've learned from the Wiki in a real scenario. Remember, repairs are free, even if ammo is not. In the M3 Stuart with the top gun (37mm M6 gun, standard rounds), you have a 56 average penetration gun which does 40 average damage. Damage therefore can range from 30-50, and penetration can range from 42mm to 70mm at 100 meters distance assuming a 90 degree angle of impact. Under no circumstances can it penetrate the front of a KV (now, KV-1). This was a lesson I did not learn as I drove that tank at that time, which seems rather stupid now in hindsight. Knowing the parameters of tanks will help you a lot. It might have saved from getting blown up by A LOT of KV's. (As an aside, the M3 Stuart is the tank I use to illustrate my noobery vs. improved play in a then vs. now. Then: 50 battles, 18 wins, 8 kills, 38 deaths 0.3 damage ratio. Since: 36 battles, 23 wins, 38 kills, 23 deaths, damage ratio upped to 0.6 overall. It took me forever to get top gun in this game, and when I finally did it was with the PzKpfw III. My second one was in, you guessed it, the M3 Stuart. Both were on Prokhorovka.) However, the parameters are not hard on fast. Just because the listed "frontal" armor value is higher than your penetration does not mean you can't damage the tank from that angle. All tanks have weakspots. http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guides/ will show you some of them. You don't have to memorize everything, but learn the key ones on the most heavily armored tanks in the tiers you are fighting, and it will help you a lot. In time, you'll find penetrating for full damage easy. Part Four - Stop Gimping Yourself This is extremely important: Every single tank you run, even Tier 1s, should have a first aid kit, repair kit, and a third consumable (usually a fire extinguisher, but fast tanks may want high octane gasoline/lend lease oil or a removed speed governor (learn how to use it before mounting it though). When and how often you use them will depend on how the game is going, and what tier. Obviously 3000 credits is a steep price to pay every time your MS-1 gets tracked. You'll only want to use it in situations that can potentially decide the battle. But you want it available, just in case it's the difference between life or death, or victory and defeat (especially that fire extinguisher!). STOP using Free XP to unlock tanks. Free XP should be used ONLY to unlock important modules on tanks once you've used regular XP to unlock them. If I need 30,000 XP to unlock a tank, and I have 25,000 XP on its predecessor, and 5,000 free XP - I should WAIT to unlock that tank. Once I unlock it, I'll have more than 5,000 free XP which can be spent to unlock important modules on it. Maybe it's a scout with a horrible stock engine, and I'll want to put the top engine on it to improve maneuverability. Maybe it's at the weight limit and needs the tracks before it can mount the good gun from the tank before, so I'll want to free XP the tracks. Maybe the stock gun is horrible, so I'll want to free XP a better gun for my new tank. Using free XP this way will save a player from the unfortunate experience of going into battle with a tank that is seemingly worse than the tank it was researched from. Don't run stock tanks if you can avoid it. Free XP is how you avoid running bone stock tanks. Getting to Tier 10 is not the point of the game. Tanks don't really get "better" as you go up in tier if you don't get better. Each tier is rewarding and fun in its own way. Seal clubbing is not the point of the game. That said, don't just stay in the same tier to pad your stats. Truly talented players are good at ALL tiers, not just low tiers farming players who are new to the game. Play tiers because you enjoy them, but keep trying to get better at the game, which means progressing towards tier 10 and learning the nuances of each tier's gameplay (some of which is discussed later). Stop running with a 50% crew, or a crew for the wrong tank. Convert your crews if you don't plan on keeping the previous vehicle, and some cases even if you do. At MINIMUM, you should be using the crew training for credits option, but if you have gold available, crew training is a good investment. Once you reach 100%, start training your crew in secondary skills. The specific ones you want will depend both on your playstyle and the tank in question - and other guides cover this in more detail than I care to since this is about improving your play overall, not just in specific tanks (plus that would make this even longer). But not having to have a completely n00b crew in every single new tank you play will help a lot. It means shorter reloads, better tank acceleration, agility turning, offroad performance, and turret rotation. It also means shorter aim times, less aim dispersion when you move your tank, and better view range and radio range. By extension this also includes better accuracy when firing on the move. If you plan on keeping a tank that you enjoy and play often, run it with equipment. Every advantage helps. It may cost a lot of credits, but for all of my heavy tanks and TD's a couple hundred thousand dollars in fake money is worth being able to put out 10% more damage per minute. Instead, learn something from every tier. Every tier in the game teaches you something different about gameplay: Tier 1 - How to hit targets, and how to move to avoid fire. Basic vision and camo mechanics. Base capture and defense. Tier 2 - How to use mobility (most lights and mediums) or armor (French tanks) to your advantage for the first time. TD's will give you a superior gun and teach you how avoid being easily killed by the enemy, since you will lack both mobility and armor (except for the T18). Artillery (SPG's) will teach you how to click on things. Lyke a baus. Tier 3 - For lights and mediums, this tier is an extension of how to use mobility, but also will begin to teach the importance of flanking attacks. Most Tier 3's can do almost nothing to the enemy Tier 5's they'll encounter from time to time in battle when they engage them from the front. To do damage, you'll have to get behind or beside the enemy (or aim for weakspots). The light tanks will also begin to introduce the concept of scouting for the first time. TD's continue their lesson of good gun/not a lot of mobility/no armor if any aka stay hidden and shoot stuff, but get more powerful guns. Arty continues mouse clicking 101, although some of the artys will learn to be lazy since they can hit most of the map in this tier and thus never have to leave base. The ones that don't will learn this invaluable skill in Tiers 4-5. Tier 4-5 - Varied tiers. Tier 4 light tanks (especially scouts) will have the scouting lesson drilled home in fire and blood so that they either come out as seasoned Tier 5 scouts ready to queue up against the highest tier tanks in the game, or as noob suicide scouters with just an extreme gluttony for punishment. For this reason, I recommend for new players trying to improve their stats NOT to go up dedicated scout lines in the tank trees unless they are VERY knowledgeable in the vision mechanics and their gameplay style is such that they aren't just WILLING to scout but actually PREFER it to any other tank type. Tier 4 mediums will be given adequate guns to continue their flanking/aim for weakspots lessons against Tier 6 tanks, and will still lack an HP pool (they'll get this in Tier 5), but not as badly as at Tier 3, so they will learn to use their HP pool as well as become jack of all trades tanks, not strictly support - they may have to lead, hold a flank sometimes, or flex back to the base to reset a capture. Tier 4-5 TD's are well balanced. Most will have a good combination of armor, mobility, and firepower, though still lacking a turret. They must learn to balance having all 3 for the first time with the desire to play like a medium - a mistake that is not forgiven often, even in pub matches. Camo is key except when top tier, where tanks like the Hetzer, SU-85, and T40 can decimate the opposition. The B1, the first heavy tank, doesn't really teach much, although it can give you your first exposure to having a tank with armor. But the Tier 5 heavy tanks will teach much: how to lead a true push, absorb shots with armor (aka angle armor to bounce, and hide weak points). If you want to learn the basics of heavy tanking, get a KV-1. You'll find the gameplay changes when Tier 5 tanks are involved, as there is less aimless running around, and tanks will start to cluster near obvious choke points. Tier 6 - A continuation of lessons from tier 5, except you'll find longer reloads, more expensive ammunition, less mobility, and more armor generally speaking. Tanks are bigger, and will begin to have better armor, albeit with weakspots, so you'll have to start shooting for them. Several tanks in this tier are equipped with outstanding guns (such as the KV-1S, SU-100, and even the Jagdpanzer IV when it is top tier), so in addition to teaching shot prioritization, it will also teach players how to "avoid the big guy" and capitalize to kill a tank while it reloads. This is the first tier for a nonpremium account where horrible battles will lead to a credit loss. Tier 6 also introduces the first autoloading tanks (excluding autocannons), unique because of their fragile armor and long clip reloads, and difficult to counter because of their high burst damage. Tier 7-8 - Armor and weakspots become MUCH more important here, as is the specialization now of each individual tank, as opposed a class. At this tier, each tank will have a specific role it performs best on the battlefield, and roles it is just not suited for. HP pool increases significantly, so the pace of battle will slow down, and become much more measured. The importance of trying to stay as artillery safe as possible will be drilled home at these tiers, as arty starts to actually hurt a lot at these tiers. Where previously you were prone to getting one shot, but arty often missed, now arty misses will begin to take significant HP and cause critical damage. You'll find you can just exchange shots on favorable terms with tanks to get kills as you could in previous tiers, you'll actually need to do damage without being hit back as it becomes a marathon, not a sprint. In contrast to the generally slower pace of battle at these tiers, light tanks of these tiers move freely throughout the field often, countered only by other enemy light tanks or mediums, so scouting as well as counterscouting is critical at these tiers. These lights tanks actually have HP though, so they'll actually have to be countered. You can't just 1-2 shot them as you can with lower tier scouts. They also have the ability to dish out some real hurt, so you need to be aware of where they are at all times. With much longer reloads, you'll need to take advantage of your enemies' RL, while making your own shots count. Ammo becomes very expensive at this tier. Repair costs begin to get heavy at this tier. Nonpremium accounts will consistently lose money if they perform poorly. Tier 8 is the first tier where premium accounts will lose credits for horrible battles, although it is possible in Tier 7 with team damage etc. Tier 9-10 - These tiers reinforce and magnify everything you've ever learned about the game, but add on an additional challenge: Carry harder. To win at these tiers, you will have to get in the middle of the fight and force the outcome. No more "camping" no more "support"...it's put up or shut up. This is the most unforgiving tier, the pinnacle of gameplay, and tier 9-10 tanks actually have the lowest performance spread of any 2 tiers. So a tier 9 in a tier 10 fight can still carry the match. Here premium accounts will often lose credits except for the best of matches (especially at Tier 10). It IS possible to make money at these tiers, just extremely difficult. Learn these lessons from each tier and apply them, and you'll be really on your way. Part Five - Apply what you've learned, then step up the challenge You don't have to devote your life to this game to be good at it, even though it seems that way sometimes. Just the simple application of what you've learned in your battle thinking will improve your gameplay. Now, time to step it up. Now you understand how the game works, and what individual tanks are capable of, and have set goals for improvement. Once you reach them, set harder goals. Do the following: Watch and analyze your replays - especially your losses, especially close battles. What did you do wrong? What could you have done better? Watch good players - their wins AND their losses. See what they did well. Note it and copy it. See what they did wrong. If you can point to it watching a replay, see if you can catch yourself in battle when you think of something (dumb) before you actually do it. Learn the maps in and out. The good players do. When you watch a good player's replay, see where they set up, and which terrain they abuse. Try going to these spots yourself in a suitable tank, and try it for yourself. For example, a lot of players don't know that you can shoot under dead tanks (I've reset caps this way) and under train cars, and cry "HAX!" when you do it to them. Platoon with good players. The good ones will offer map strategies, sometimes carry you to victory, and point out your mistakes when you play with them. They may also create situations where you can put out extreme damage amounts. Take advantage of them. Before you can learn to create such opportunities for yourself, you need to learn how to take advantage of one when it's handed to you. Set harder goals and keep going. Part Six - Actual Gameplay Some basic things that will help you as a sub 49%er. These are more strategic in nature, by design, as understanding battle mechanics will help you with a lot of the tactical play that occurs in the various skirmishes that play out in each battle. Every single one of these things is a mistake I made when I was new to the game. Scouts/Lights/Mediums/M18 Hellcats: Stop rushing out early and dying. A good scout stays alive till the end of battle, and only dies if it was a sacrifice necessary to eliminate the enemy's artillery. If you are new to scouting, use the "active scouting" technique. Rush towards the enemy in such a way that hard cover like terrain or buildings can serve as nearby cover. Once you hear the blip that indicates you've spotted an enemy tank, without stopping rush towards that cover, and away from the enemy so you will not die. A good point on this was someone posted on the WOTforums that I remember, always move from cover to cover. When you are moving, know where you're going next so you won't get caught in the open. Lastly, M18 Hellcats obviously are TD's, not scouts, but I say this because of their speed so many players die stupidly in them. M18 Hellcats should not be rushing to the enemy at the start of battle. They should be using sound TD principles such as camouflage and support fire to stay hidden and deal good damage. Their mobility is an asset in that it allows them to move flexibly across the battlefield and easily change position if a secondary flank needs support. Heavy Tanks: Stop camping/otherwise being in the back. From your knowledge of maps, figure out where the enemy is going to be, and get to a good choke point as fast as you can in a good defensive position. Odds are enemy tanks will amass in this area, and you want to meet them on the most favorable terms. Your heaviest tank should be in front. Especially a no no - NEVER camp the artillery. Not only are you not "protecting it" (artillery is protected by protecting all the routes to it...once it is spotted, it's already too late), but your gun is completely useless all the way back there. TD's: Get your guns in the fight. Look for places on the map where you can deal damage on enemy tanks at the main choke points. Just because you're a TD doesn't make this a game of tower defense where you must sit at base on a hill and wait for the enemy to come to you. Sit back, away from the heavies, but have line of fire and be able to hit enemies. Be near a corner or somewhere you can easily retreat if you are spotted if in a city map, or somewhere that you can retreat behind terrain if on a more open map. Medium tanks: Stop bouncing off the heavy tanks' front armor. Since you have the most mobility, you get to go to more open areas (within reason - stay off Malinovka field please) where most tanks dare not go...especially towards the end of battle as the tank counts are winding down on both sides. You are most valuable to your team by doing some of the following things: #1 being flexible, able to shift to where you are needed... #2 flank attacks on the enemy's heavies. when you shoot them they must turn their turret and/or hull to you (thus allowing your heavies to penetrate their weak side/rear turret armor), OR they must ignore you and continue facing those heavies, OR they must move to a secondary cover, allowing your tanks to advance in the right circumstances. This is the Sophie's choice every medium tank driver wants to make every enemy tanker deal with. This is how a flank can be turned from a standoff into a landslide victory. #3 countering the enemy light tanks. you are fast enough to stay close to them and have good enough rate of fire that if you miss them they're not by you and into the base automatically...keep them away from friendly artillery / the base area. Medium tanks require the most cumulative skill to play in my opinion, and success in them in my opinion gives a player more battlefield influence than in any other class, and reflects/rewards the most skill. Autoloaders: Stop dying really early, and stop wasting your shots. Just because you can fire rounds in rapid succession doesn't mean you should. Also, manage your clip. If you know you're going to be away from enemies for a while and have a partial clip, press C and reload so you'll have a full one the next time you encounter an enemy tank. Strategic Thinking: Start doing it. First is the concept of FOCUS FIRE. Focus fire means all of your tanks shooting one of the enemy's tanks until it is dead, as opposed to shooting individual targets, all of which stay alive to keep shooting back at you. This can mean using chat to encourage teammates to finish that nearly dead tank, but it can also mean for you, shooting the most damaged tank when you have that chance (ESPECIALLY if it yields a kill shot, and especially if that is a top tier tank on their team or driven by a very skilled player - which is why I had you use XVM). Second is understanding maps, and knowing the tactically important areas, and how your tank is best served in battle by looking at your composition, and the enemy's. Avoid lemming trains...where tanks all line up, form a column, and go one way on a map. Usually this strategy is doomed to failure, because they will encounter enemy tanks and either die one by one, or they will STOP, and play "peekaboom" trading shots one for one until one side or the other wins...which tends to take a while, leaving the lightly (or un-) guarded flank to fall very rapidly and enemy tanks to be in your base rather quickly. You may be able to encourage the team to push rapidly all at once (which does occasionally work), may encourage some tanks to come back and cover the other flank, or you may actually go to the other flank and stall the enemy just long enough. Third, rotate damage. If you are damaged, get out of the front, and towards the back. Stay alive, keep your gun in the fight, and let others take hits to spread the damage around and stay alive. Your gun does just as much damage when you have 1 HP as it does when you have full HP. This can also mean if a teammate is heavily damaged and an enemy tank has a killshot lined up, put yourself between the two to keep your teammate alive. Once he fires, and you've taken the hit, move back out of the way and your teammate can shoot him too. By keeping that tank alive, your team gets 2 shots at the enemy tank whereas otherwise, you would have only gotten 1 (yours). Fourth, situational awareness. When facing an enemy tank of even tier, take shots when the enemy is not looking at you as much as possible, unless the engagement is on very favorable terms (discussed below). If, after you've shot, the enemy turns to shoot at you (watch his turret and tracks), pull back into cover before he does. If he rushes you, in most cases, you will have already reloaded by the time he gets to you and you'll get a second shot in. Fifth, engage enemies on favorable terms. Don't just go toe to toe with their most similar tank to you. Either outnumber the enemy tanks in a given force, OR outtier them. Granted that doesn't mean 5 tier 6's will take out 4 tier 8's, but 5 tier 6's will certainly take out 1 tier 8 in a brawl, and maybe even 2 if the players know what they're doing. Utilize cover to minimize your exposure to enemy shots from various angles, and keep the enemy in front of you (and your teammates, as much as possible) at all times. If you can't engage on favorable terms, retreat to cover, or to teammates so that you can. If you're the last tank standing, get to the most advantageous position you can and make as heroic a last stand as you can. Sometimes it actually works. SUMMARY: If you are a sub 49%er and you begin doing these very basic things, when you check WOTLabs.net you'll see a very noticeable improvement in your performance over time. I know I sure did. I still have lots of things I can improve on, but hopefully some baddy out there reads this, decides to improve, and writes his/her own guide someday, because that's what this game is all about. I no longer have the free time to play sports like I used to, so this game fulfills my desire for competition, and I take improving at the game seriously because winning is more fun than losing. So good luck, and happy tanking. Dissidence's Guide to Competence In Tanking For Baddies.doc
  2. 4 points
    Poasting here since I won't be R/O'd Enjoy 1st - http://www.twitch.tv/anfield_us/c/2388746 The actual event. 2nd- http://www.twitch.tv/anfield_us/c/2388699 The interview that follows.
  3. 3 points
    A while ago Garbad posted this topic: http://forum.worldof...than-tanks/#top In the topic he explained the how and why of artillery being so good at 1-shotting scouts and other tanks in TD mode. This thread can be considered as an Addendum to that topic, expanding upon the original matter. Now, on to the subject matter: People often like to say that artillery's poor accuracy makes up for it's crazy alpha damage. This is simply not true when the artillery is being played by an even moderately competent player. When one first starts playing artillery one hears that the roof armour of tanks is very weak and thus you can do huge amounts of damage if you land a shell on the roof armour of a vehicle. So, naturally, you try to line up your shots like this: When you land a shot on the target, it's great. You do heaps of damage and he/she QQs. Mostly, though, you just splash nearby and do a small amount of damage. However, even really bad artillery players know that the above reticle shape is not the reticle shape you are looking for. What you really want, when aiming in artillery, is an elongated reticle. This indicates that the shell you fire will be travelling nearly horizontally (Much like a shell fired from a non-SPG vehicle) when it finally touches down in the target area. If you are able to set up a shot such that the reticle is elongated and the tip of the reticle lines up with the target vehicle (As seen in the image above, the tip of the reticle is the point closest to your vehicle, rather than the farther end) then the odds of the shot missing the target vehicle are extremely low. This isn't news to anyone that has played artillery. In fact, it's even covered in the WoT Wiki: This "feature" of artillery explains completely and thoroughly how an even semi-competent cheetos-scoffing clicker is ably to reliably punch holes in, or at the very least strike, your side armour with his/her grotesquely large HE shells. The fact if the matter is that artillery, for all its supposed inaccuracy, is capable of being reliably accurate in the same fashion of any other tank by simply firing shots in the described fashion. And yes, in case you were wondering, the 0.8.6 accuracy buff is going to exacerbate this problem...
  4. 3 points
    I've had way too many of these discussions since my time started in this game. I've altered my points a bit, as my level of experience increased. I think the arti problem is a bit deeper than people realize. I'll try to explain briefly, and offer my vision of how things should work: 1. The Role. Arti serves a specific purpose. That purpose is NOT the oft mentioned "camping prevention." Its purpose is to fill the low skill to moderate reward niche that most popular PVP oriented games have. Shooting games have grenades, or high volume full auto weapons. They rely more on luck than skill. A good player will probably use a more accurate, lower RoF weapon, since his skill level lets him perform better with it. WoT NEEDS to have a mechanic like this, so that people of multiple skill levels can play together. 2. The Target's Problem. As stated many times in this thread, the alpha/one shot potential of arti is the most pressing issue, from the viewpoint of those not playing arti. Those games I mentioned before, where the newb can lob a lucky grenade or catch someone with a close range, full auto burst? They all have respawns. The good player is back in a minute or less. This means that those luck deaths are annoying, but not debilitating. Revenge is just a respawn away. WoT, however, ends your game the moment luck shits on you. This gives arti, luck's chosen agent in this game, too much influence on the game. Simply speaking, the one shot potential must go. 3. The Player's Problem. Wargaming, as we know, is absolutely clueless when it comes to their own game. It's laughable. They fail to see the clearest issues, and do not learn from their mistakes. That is true with arti as well. In 8.6, arti shells will travel more slowly, and they will reload more slowly. They will still cause rage when they manage to blast away all of your health in a hit. Alpha was not changed. Nerfing RoF, or shell travel time, or track traverse, or aim time do NOTHING to solve the problem. In fact, they create a whole new problem. They make arti far less enjoyable to play. ALL vehicles should be fun to play. Waiting one minute between shots is not fun. Certain aspects of arti should be buffed, in order to make them more enjoyable. In short, remove the one shot potential, reduce alpha overall, increase RoF. Finally, here's my somewhat crazy idea of how arti should work: Increase the firing arc. Yep, I want it to be almost straight up and down. But cut penetration to 0. No chance for a penning hit in overhead mode. Straight down shots are actually a bit tougher to hit, since no part of your reticule is in the shadow of the tank. With reduced alpha and no chance to pen, arti can wear down camping targets. They can be useful in city maps. They can be the newb friendly option, that doesn't make you worry about weak spots or angles.
  5. 2 points
    Repost from WoT Forums As an attempt to make it easier to find information on this website I am making a list of guides. None of these are written by me, and this is by no means all the guides out there. Just a small attempt at some organization for myself and other newer players like myself. If you know of a great guide that is not listed here please feel free to reply and it will be read and included. World Of Tanks Written Guides: General Guides: [FAQ] Roles of Tanks MSPaint schematics explaining gameplay basics Lert's easy tips for beginners Navy's thread of do's and don'ts to help you improve. For people that would like to learn frontal tank weakspots Navy's complete weakspot guide for lower tiers. Navy's guide to shooting a tank. Lert's simple guide to becoming a better player Veterans advice on some bad game play habits to try and avoid WoT's most well-kept secret, the "S" key General Quick Guide Basic Combat and Knowledge for Dummies fatkiddown's Guide To Skills & Perks Maxwell's Guide to Maximizing Firepower Taking Charge and Hitting Hard: How to lead your team to Victory The Art of Tanks [Mechanics] WoT Camo and Vision Mechanics Guide Rofls guide to playing better and your win rate Using Military Doctrinal Fundamentals of Maneuver in WoT How real life gun safety can bring down in-game teamdamage How to fall off a cliff without losing your tracks, three crew and half your hitpoints How real world traffic rules can bring down team damage Advanced guide: Teamwork and Winrate Abject_McDeath's Map Guide The Newbie's guide to HE: Your Derp and you. How to initiate a drift better.... Your Crew Explained The 10 Commandments of WoT GCobley's Guide to Sinking TOG's; The Do's and the Dont's The Ruthless Math of WoT (And Why Every Tank Matters) How to tell if you have good stats -- v2.0 A Methodology for Improving Your Gameplay 5001 games, what I've learned, what you can learn from me A Unicorn’s Comprehensive Guide to the Survival Side Garbad's standardized crew/equipment/ammo/consumables setup Garbad's 10 Basic Tips to Improve your Performance Garbad's Guide to be better at Internet Tanks Tank and Class Specific Guides: Tank Inspector Heavy Guides: Playing your first Heavy Tank Lert's guide to the TOG II* T34 guide/review Killashrub's Guide to Autoloaders Medium Guides: Medium tanks: tactics and methods Light Guides: 3 Stages of scouting Beginner's Guide to Tier V Light Tanks A Valentine guide fablkak's guide to light tanks How to be a Hated Scout Scouting 101 World of Tanks Scout Tutorial A First Look at the Guys Who Look First Absolute beginner's guide to being a tier 4 scout in a tier 9 match The Lighthouse - The Lighthouse discusses all things Scout: tank builds, techniques, maps, crew skills, and much more. How To: Destroy Artillery - Light Tank Edition VK-2801 COUGAR Tank Destroyer Guides: Tank Destroyer. Theory, and Practice. Self Propelled Gun Guides: HOW TO: COUNTER ARTY GW-E - send love from above ... Beginners Guide to using Artillery (SPG) fablkak's advanced tips for arty in pub matches. SPGs 101 Artillery and You Enfilade Bombardment -- a guide for SPG players Maximizing Your Arty Post your artillery tips! Quick Tip: Aiming Your Artillery Guide: Advanced Arty Strategy & Tactics Strategy Guides: Advanced Tactics (Lights & Med tanks) A guide to going hull down and playing peak-a-boom Sun Tzu's Art of War Advanced tank tactics After Actions Report Vol 7.3.01: Using Terrain Tactics 101: 019 – Attacking in the Blind – Movement to Contact Basic Battle Strategies Essential reading: Strategy Navy's full guide on armor angling. How to corner fight. A lesson on sidescraping. Complete Tank Company Guide How to do the Impossible -- defeating a camping T95 - How to kill a TD mixed with Garbad arty rant Unicum Diaries: Team Play - Garbad discussing a single game with platoon mates Basic Strategies -- Initiative: Surviving a Showdown - Concepts on how to know when to expose yourself to deal damage Other Helpful Links: World of Tanks Wiki World of Tanks Guru - Weak Spot Guides - Replays - Tips - Previews - Tank Guides Performance Analyzer and Statistics Site (AKA vBAddict) NoobMeter.com - World of tanks statistics and ratings How to Disable the "Windows Key" Tutorial: Setting Higher Performance for Nvidia Graphics Cards In World of Tanks Guide for Better FPS/Graphic Optimization Video Guides: W.o.T. Official Game Channel WoT I'm Thinking - The Youtube series
  6. 2 points
    Allurai

    Insulting Whack-a-Mole, a documentary.

    Seal of approval applied.
  7. 2 points
    A_Chodeful

    How do you improve?

    http://www.noobmeter.com/player/na/Stefal;jsessionid=ED9A8BB8911228308DAE024C1C5BFBBE He's definitely declining stats/metric-wise. As for how to improve? Correct me if my assumption is wrong, but I'm feeling that super-unicums like CarbonWard aren't platooning with you today like they did back in your hey-day? If that is the case, then I don't think this is a case of declining, I think this is just a case of your stats beginning to normalize themselves without their guidance/help, showing us a clearer picture of your actual performance. Also, lay off the T34, find another premium tank to work at. That tank comprises of almost 65% of your total battles since November of last year according to Noobmeter. Playing one tank for too long, especially an inflexible tank like the T34 is just bad for you.
  8. 2 points
    I should post the replay of a battle I was just in. Sand River. I was in JPE-100. There were 4 tier 8 arty. Enemy had a T71. We had no scout. Anyone want to guess what happened? Point was even trying to move made absolutely no difference. Got killed without firing a shot, as did an E-100 and god knows what else. So what precisely was it we were meant to do? Maybe the arty players had fun, but I can assure you it was totally pointless playing that vehicle in that battle on that map. So long as that sort of thing happens, I fail to see how the "arty is fine, it's your fault if you're hit" can expect to be taken seriously.
  9. 1 point
    This guide will stop at tier 7, unless by popular demand tier 6 and lower are requested. Before we begin, I shall define some terms. I will use my Tiger II to explain these terms. Stabsfeldwebel Egger transferred for failure to the Maus Leutnant Knispel is honoured his new tank can be used for this demonstration. Upper Glacis: The upper frontal hull armour plate of a tank. Lower Glacis: Lower frontal hull armour on a tank, usually weaker. Mantlet: The armour section surrounding the gun. Usually strongest part of a tank. (IS-7's mantlet armour reaches approx. 350mm!) MG Mount: Location where a machine gun is mounted on a tank for local defence against infantry. Usually have weaker armour. Cupola: Dome shaped structure used by commander/crew to enter/exit tank. Some cupolas have observation slits for the commander. Usually have no armour. Viewport: Device used by crew members to see the outside world, may/may not result in hull damage depending on the tank. Upper Superstructure: Some German tank destroyers have two different armour values, one for the hull and one for the upper part. Above are explained in the screenshots. Stabsfeldwebel Oberleutnant Otto Carius demonstrates superstructure! Ignore my crew skills here. I retrained them already. Now that we got the useless stuff out of the way... Weaknesses will be hull then turret. THIS GUIDE ASSUMES YOU ARE FACING THE TANK FROM THE FRONT. Left side assumes your left, and the opposing tank's right side, and vice versa. Tanks lower than tier 10 will have turret weaknesses for upgraded and stock turrets. SPECIAL NOTICE FOR SPACED ARMOUR OBJECT 704/OBJECT 268/IS-3/IS-6/IS-8/IS-7/GW Typ E/E-100/Maus With the new armour group updates, OBJECT 704/OBJECT 268/IS-3/IS-6/IS-8/IS-7/GW Typ E/E-100/Maus gained new spaced armour. This means some areas on the front and rear are falseboards, if you penetrate there, it will do no damage unless the second set of armour is penetrated. The falseboards actually outlines the real tank armour layout. IS-3/704/IS-7 have parts of their side armour at 60 degrees. What this means is that their side armour are exceptionally tough. IS-3 and 704's side armour above the tracks are nearly 180mm, IS-7's side armour there is greater than a Type 59's frontal hull. If a shell hits there, it will penetrate some spaced armour first, then hit the sloped side armour, making penetration incredibly tough. Instead, hit the armour behind the tracks, those are only 90mm/100mm at 90 degrees from horizontal. IS-8 also has spaced armour, but it is significantly smaller than the IS-3s. GW Typ E and E-100 had spaced armour from when they were introduced. Penetrating spaced armour from the front or rear does no damage. Spaced armour on the side hull significantly increases protection. SPECIAL NOTICE FOR FRENCH TANKS Tier X Heavy Tanks Maus Hull: Lower glacis, there is a small rectangular block that can be hit and penetrated easily by tier 10 guns as long as the Maus driver does not angle his hull. Ammo rack is located under the turret. Turret: Shoot the round side beside the mantlet. Armour here is 220mm rounded. As long as the Maus driver does not turn his turret away and you have a good non angled shot, it will go through with tier 10 guns. It is possible to try to shoot the lower rounded part of the turret to attempt to ricochet it into the upper engine deck. However this is unreliable. Ammo rack is located in the rear half the turret. E-100 Hull: Lower glacis, guns with ~200mm penetration can hit through if it is unangled. Do not shoot the lower glacis if you are within 50m of the E-100, as it will be too angled (50 degrees) for you to penetrate. Instead, use the turret weakness. Ammo rack is in the rear portion of the turret, similar to Maus. Turret: There is an extremely flat part of the frontal turret where the turret mates with the chassis. Armour there is unknown, presumably 240mm, but has no vertical angle. Frontal turret of the E-100 is very tough, try not to hit it. IS-4 Hull: Lower glacis plate at medium/long range, where the spare track links are located. Ammo rack is located behind the headlights (hmm...). Shooting it at close range results in bounce/non penetration due to angle. Lower hull can be penetrated by a Tiger I. Driver's plate is being buffed, but the driver's slit itself has no armour. Only good at point blank ranges. Turret: Commander's cupola on the right side. BL-10, T7, and Pak44/2 can penetrate frontal turret if you shoot the rounded area beside the mantlet. But avoid it in any case, as the mantlet was buffed, even APCR no longer penetrates the mantlet. Ammo rack is located in the rear right of the turret. (If turret rear is facing you.) IS-7 Hull: Lower glacis plate at medium range, do not shoot it at close range, you will be shooting down at it and it will be highly angled. Lower hull now needs around 235mm average penetration to do damage. Avoid shooting the seam of the V, where it is extremely hard to penetrate. Good luck getting through upper hull. Turret: Nigh impossible. Cupolas can be penetrated, but is very unreliable. T110E5 Hull: Lower glacis, driver's viewports. Turret: Commander's cupola, area beside mantlet. Avoid mantlet if possible. Turret ring is rather vulnerable. T57 Heavy Tank Hull: Lower glacis, driver's viewports. Turret: The turret ring is very vulnerable. Try not to hit the gun or the area around it if possible. 113 Hull: Lower glacis, upper hull can be penetrated at point blank range if you have good gun depression. Turret: Cupolas. AMX 50 B Hull: Do no shoot it at the front hull ever. Most of it is auto bounce. However, the shoulders (where the red fire extinguishers are) is only 50mm. Turret: Same as T57 Heavy. FV215B Hull: Lower glacis, if slightly angled, shoot the exhaust pipes (it will hit a piece of side armour rated at 102mm) Turret: Cupola, turret ring. Medium Tanks E-50 Ausf. M Hull: Lower hull. Turret: Same as E-50. T-62A Hull: Frontal hull is weaker than a T-54, should not be a problem. Aim for the headlights for ammo rack. Turret: Commander's cupola. Object 140 Hull: Same as T-62A Turret: Cupolas, top turret (semi circle indicated by a weld seam) can be overmatched by guns above 90mm calibre. M48A1/M60 Hull: Lower glacis, driver's viewports. Turret: Commander's cupola. Avoid mantlet. Turret ring. FV4202 Hull: Lower glacis, hull is pretty weak. Turret: Pretty much autopen, there's no mantlet. BatChat 25t. Hull: Derp. Don't shoot the spaced armour square immediately above the tracks. Turret: Derp. 121 Hull: Lower glacis, frontal hull is not that strong at tier 10 anyway. Turret: Commander's cupola. Avoid mantlet. Tank Destroyers Jagdpanzer E-100 Hull: Lower glacis is extremely vulnerable. Armour beside mantlet can be penetrated by most tier 10 tanks. However, the armour plate with bolts on is very strong. Rear MG turret if possible, cupolas. Object 268 Hull: The hull is extremely weak, as it comes from the IS-8. Try to avoid hitting weld seams. Lower hull can be easily penetrated. Commander's cupola. Object 263 Hull: Lower hull, the square mantlet. Engine deck can be penetrated at close range. (Must have height advantage) T110E3 Hull: Lower glacis (152mm @ 55), commander's MG turret (229 @ 60). Essentially you are pretty screwed if you don't have HEAT. Driver's cupola is a decent weakspot. T100E4 Hull: Lower glacis. Turret: Commander's MG turret, area beside mantlet. AMX 50 Foch (155) Hull: Same as the tier 9 AMX 50 Foch. FV215B (183) Hull: Lower hull. Upper glacis isn't very strong. Turret: Flat 254mm spot underneath the gun, or the random stuff on the turret top. Tier IX Heavy Tanks VK 4502 Ausf. B Hull: Lower glacis plate, it is still 170mm like upper glacis, but it is less angled. Tier 9 guns like 10,5cm Kwk 46 L68 can penetrate 50% of the time unangled. If angled, it is hard to hit through it, even with tier 10 guns like 120mm/12,8cm Kwk 44 L55. Ammo rack is located in the rear of the hull, where the spare track links are located. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola, try not to hit the rangefinder in front of it. High powered guns like 155mm T7 and 152mm BL-10 can penetrate turret frontally if fired head on without angle. Ammo rack is on the rear half the turret. Stock Turret: Same armour as the Maus turret, hit the rounded front turret armour beside the mantlet. Cupola is still weak. Ammo rack is in the rear half of the turret. E-75 Hull: Lower glacis (130mm). Avoid shooting the upper glacis if possible, as that can bounce 12,8cm Kwk 44 shots unangled, angled it can bounce 152mm BL-10s. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola. Ammo rack is in the rear half of the turret. Stock Turret: Commander's cupola. Guns with greater than 225mm penetration can hit through frontal turret reliably, as long as you do not hit the mantlet. Ammo rack is in the rear half of the turret. ST-I Hull: Lower glacis plate. Do not hit the driver's viewport, that spot is 200mm. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola. Stock Turret: Range finder on the left side of the turret, commander's cupola, loader's cupola. Frontal turret isn't very strong at all. IS-8 Hull: Lower glacis, driver's viewport. Frontal hull is not exceptionally strong. If driver angles hull, shoot whichever side is facing you. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola. Stock Turret: Commander's cupola. M103 Hull: Lower glacis, driver's viewport can be consistently penetrated at close range. Turrets: Area beside the mantlet, commander's cupola. Turret ring. Conquerer Hull: Lower glacis, upper hull is very weak for the tier. Upgraded turret: Cupola, if facehugging, any turret cheek that's facing you. Stock Turret: Anywhere but the mantlet. AMX 50 120 Hull: Anywhere really. Don't hit the lower hull. Turret: Turret ring or any flat face. Don't hit the gun. WZ-111 Models 1-4 Hull: Lower hull is weak. Upper hull is weak for the tier too. Upgraded Turret: Cupolas Stock Turret: Same IS-3 upgraded turret. Medium Tanks E-50 Hull: Lower glacis. Ammo rack is underneath the turret, and above the tracks. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola, rangefinders. Stock Turret: Anywhere but mantlet. T-54 Hull: Hull can be penetrated anywhere by any guns above 225mm penetration, as long as the driver does not angle his T-54. If so, you can shoot the flimsy side armour. Ammo rack is located behind the headlights (Gee wizz.) to the left of the tank. Try to hit the T-54's frontal hull above the splashboard. Driver's viewport is another weakspot. Upgraded Turret: Commander and loader's cupolas are easy penetration at close range. You can actually penetrate the frontal turret with 225mm penetration guns with 50% probability if you aim directly to the left or right of the gun. Ammo rack is located in the back of the turret as well. Stock Turret: Same as above. M46 Patton Hull: lol. Ammo rack is underneath the turret. Upgraded Turret: Try to hit the hull, otherwise, hit the cupola or the area beside the mantlet. Stock Turret: Anywhere but the mantlet (square part) Lorraine 40t Seriously? Centurion Mk. 7/1 Hull: Anywhere really. Frontal lower hull has ammo rack behind the stowage. Turrets: Everywhere but mantlet. WZ-120 Hull: Virtually everywhere at this tier. Ammo rack/fuel tank behind headlights. Upgraded Turret: Cupolas Stock Turret: Cupolas. See T-54 upgraded turret. Tank Destroyers Jagdtiger Hull: Same weaknesses as Tiger II, lower glacis is 100mm. @ 50. MG ball mount now is the same as the hull armour. Ammo rack is located on the side of the superstructure, where the Balkenkruz is. Superstructure: None. BL-10, T7, Pak44/2 can penetrate upper superstructure if it's medium/close range and the Jagdtiger is not angled. But usually you can shoot the lower/upper glacis plate. Mantlet is impenetrable, do not hit it. Object 704 Hull: Lower glacis. Frontal superstructure is flimsy for tier 9. However, do not hit the mantlet, It's more than 300mm there. There are also two highly angled plates that count as side armour. From the front, it is too angled for most guns to penetrate. You CAN penetrate if the 704 happens to not face you. SU-122-54 Hull: Lower glacis, cupolas. Anywhere but the mantlet and highly sloped frontal side superstructure. T95 Hull: Lower glacis is very situational, it's extremely hard to hit barring point blank ranges, not to mention it's still ~200mm, then you'd be right in front of his gun. The two cupolas are easy weakspots to hit. I have taken damage on my T95 when someone shot my track off from the front. Mudguards may be another weakness. The two triangle areas on either side of the main hull are now spaced armour, penetrations from the front there DO NOT DO DAMAGE. T30 Hull: lol. Ammo rack is under the turret. Turret: The left and right area beside the mantlet can be penetrated by guns above 225mm penetration unangled, if the T30 turns away even a bit, any gun above 200mm will penetrate. The frontal side turret is only 179mm thick. 152mm BL-10 CAN penetrate the mantlet, but it's not recommended. Commander's cupola is another choice if being facehugged. The small triangular area above the mantlet is also a good spot if being facehugged. Ammo rack is located in the back of the turret. Most of the turret top armour is 38mm, and can be overmatched by any gun above 114mm calibre. AMX 50 Foch Hull: Lower glacis (may be difficult due to slope), commander's MG turret. Frontal armour is quite powerful. Guns with 269mm penetration will not get through it often. The rangefinder bar itself is spaced armour. Shooting the bar does no damage. Shooting the middle of the rangefinder will do damage however. Tortoise Hull: Cupola, any flat surface. Do not ever shoot the mantlet, cuz 406mm armour says nope.avi. Tier VIII Heavy Tanks Tiger II Hull: Lower glacis is rated at 100mm. MG mount is not a weakspot, and is equivalent in protection to the rest of the hull. Ammo rack is above the tracks. Upgraded Turret: Ammo rack is located in the rear half of the turret. Frontal turret armour is rather flimsy with the exception of the mantlet. Commander's cupola is now 150mm thick. Stock Turret: lol. This turret is a joke. Anywhere but the mantlet you can penetrate with guns above 135mm penetration. Try to hit the rounded part beside the mantlet however. Ammo rack is same as above. Cupola is not a weakness. VK4502 Ausf. A Hull: Lower glacis. Avoid the flat plate that's in the front and side of the hull, those plates are impenetrable spaced armour. MG mount is weak. Upgraded Turret: Same as Tiger II. Except cupola is a weakness, because WG is inconsistent. Stock Turret: Same as Tiger II. Except cupola is a weakness, because WG is inconsistent. IS-3 Hull: Same as IS-7, lower glacis is weaker than the rest. Avoid shooting the pike head on. If facehugging, the driver's viewing prism/port is a weakness. Ammo rack is under the turret. When shooting side hull, avoid shooting the side sponsons. Armour there is ~200mm due to 30mm side skirt+90mm@60 degrees.. Shoot near the tracks for 90mm@0 degrees hull armour. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola, the flat square on the top of the turret behind the gun. That spot is only 20mm, any gun above 60mm calibre will autopenetrate due to overmatch. Stock Turret: Commander's cupola. Turret overmatch no longer works due to stronger top armour. However, frontal turret is pathetic. KV-4 Hull: Driver's viewport, MG port, lower glacis. Upgraded Turret: Commander's gun turret. Stock Turret: Commander's MG turret. T32 Hull: This thing is rather good despite what people say. Lower glacis is very hard to hit. The MG port and driver/radioman's hatches are weakspots. Ammo rack is under the turret. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola at very close range (very high chance of ricochet), HE shells, gold rounds or high powered guns (245mm+) can penetrate the gun hole. The stepped ridge above the mantlet (immediately in front of the cupola) is only 76mm. Stock Turret: Do not hit the mantlet. AMX 50 100 Hull: Anywhere really. Will penetrate barring weird angles. Turret: Armour what's that? Caenarvon Hull: Lower glacis. Upper glacis provides protection to 225mm pen guns approx. 50% of the time unangled. Upgraded Turret: Anywhere but the mantlet. Stock Turret: Cupola. Avoid shooting turret as it's stronger than the upgraded one. 110 Hull: Lower glacis, the "shoulder" plates immediately above the tracks (100mm vs. 120mm on the rest of the frontal hull) Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola. (The one without the machine gun) Stock Turret: Anywhere that's not the mantlet. Commander's Cupola. Medium Tanks Panther II Hull: Lower glacis, MG port (Leopard at full speed managed to knock my radioman out). Ammo rack is above the...take a guess. Upgraded Turret: Anywhere except mantlet. Stock Turret: lol Indien Panzer Hull: Frontal hull is rather strong. Shoot turret instead. Turret: Mantlet. MG port, cupola. T-44 Hull: Same weaknesses at T-54. Ammo rack located in the exact same spot everywhere. Upgraded Turret: Everywhere but mantlet. Stock Turret: Everywhere but mantlet. Object 416 Hull: Anywhere Turrets: Virtually anywhere. Pershing Hull: Lower glacis, MG port. The raised square portion right in the middle of two crew hatches. Ammo rack underneath the turret. Turrets: Anywhere but mantlet. T69 Hull: Lower glacis. Upper hull is quite well protected, similar to the Type 59. Turret: Turret ring, cupola. Don't hit the gun. Centurion Mk. I Hull: Anywhere really. Ammo rack to the right of the driver. Upgraded Turret: Anywhere but mantlet. Stock Turret: Anywhere but mantlet. T-34-2 Hull: Lower glacis. Ammo rack/fuel tank behind head lights. Turrets: Guns with 215mm+ average penetration can go through the frontal turret. Cupolas. Tank Destroyers Ferdinand Hull: Lower glacis, area where the...headlights are. Superstructure: None, but any gun with 225mm penetration or above will penetrate if the Ferdinand is not angled and if the shot does not hit the mantlet. Ammo rack is located in the side armour section behind the Balkenkruz. Jagdpanther II Hull: Lower glacis, MG port. Upper glacis doesn't do much at tier 8 anyway. Superstructure is 150 @ 55/60. ISU-152 Hull: This tank destroyer is not burdened by silly things like armour...except the mantlet is now buffed and will bounce everything. SU-101 Hull: Avoid the upper superstructure. Shoot the upper or lower hull. Tumor on the frontal right side is another weakspot. T28 Hull: Same as T95, hit the cupolas or flank. Lower glacis is much weaker than the upper superstructure. T28 Prototype Hull: MG port. Lower glacis. T28 prototype has rather consistent armour from the front here. Turret: Turret is open top, therefore vulnerable to HE from top shots. Otherwise, area beside the mantlet. AMX AC Mle. 1948 Hull: Lower hull, commander's MG turret. Rear turret (if your vehicle can see it.). The rangefinder bar is spaced armour. Shooting the bar does no damage. AT-15 Hull: Cupola. Go as far away from the gun as you can and flank around Premium Tanks Lowe Hull: Lower glacis. The tiny driver's hatch is 100mm. Turret: Commander's cupola, anywhere that's not the mantlet. The area below the mantlet is especially good, as you may jam his turret traverse. 8,8cm Pak 43 Jagdtiger Hull: Same as Jagdtiger. MG port is still 120mm. KV-5 Hull: Radioman's MG turret, aka R2D2, lower glacis. Turret: Commander's/loader's cupolas. IS-6 Hull: Lower glacis (120mm, avoid if possible), driver's hatch. Shoulders are penetrable if they are angling toward you. Turret: Commander's cupola. Area that's not the mantlet. M6A2E1 Hull: This tank has almost no weakspots frontally, the only area that is weak is the area where the driver's viewport is. The only reason it is weak is because it isn't sloped. Guns with 200mm+ penetration can hit through here, but less likely if the driver angles his armour. Turret: Area above the mantlet. All in all, it's easier to fire HE or flank it. Even guns like the 12,8cm Pak 44 sometimes has difficulties penetrating this tank frontally. Turret ring is vulnerable to close range hits. T34 Hull: See T30. Turret: See T30, but rear turret armour is now not a good place to hit due to additional armour plating. Rear turret still houses the ammo rack. T26E4 Super Pershing Hull: MG port, driver/radioman's hatches. Turret: Commander's cupola (behind the stabilizer springs), area above the frontal turret add-on armour, frontal side turret below the add-on armour. FCM 50t Hull: The little tiny MG port. Or you can just shoot virtually anywhere. Turret: There's no armour whatsoever for its tier. Even the mantlet is only 120mm with nothing behind it. Type 59 Hull: Same as T-54/44. Ammo rack location is the same spot. Turret: Exactly the same as T-54's upgraded turret, except the side turret is much weaker. Tier VII Heavy Tanks Tiger I Hull: lol, avoid the highly sloped upper superstructure. Stock Turret: Commander's cupola. Avoid the mantlet. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola. Avoid the mantlet. Tiger P Hull: Try to shoot the turret instead. But if you absolutely have to shoot it for some reason, it has exactly the same frontal weakness as a Ferdinand, with the addition of a driver's viewport. Turrets: Should be able to penetrate easily, zero angle 100/120mm isn't much. However there are some areas where mantlet stacks with frontal turret armour. Commander's cupola. IS Hull: Lower glacis, where the track links are. Avoid shooting the sloped section on the front, even though it's only 60mm, it is angled at 70 (!) degrees from vertical, making it 174mm effective, or 120mm with normalization. Even then it is more likely to ricochet your shot. Turrets: Commander's cupola. Mantlet on the IS is pathetically weak. KV-3 Hull: Driver's viewport, MG port, lower hull. Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola Stock Turret: Commander's MG turret. T29 Hull: At this tier, it's rather good. Shoot lower glacis or the MG mount. Crew hatches are another good spot. Ammo rack underneath the turret. Upgraded Turret: Same as T30. Rear half houses the ammo rack. Rangefinders are no longer weakspots. Stock Turret: Same as T30 AMX M4 1945 Hull: Lower hull, MG port, driver's viewport. Upgraded Turret: Anywhere really. Mantlet is not very strong. Stock Turret: Anywhere but the mantlet. Black Prince Hull: Lower glacis. MG port. Radioman's hatch. Turret: Cupola. IS-2 Hull: Lower glacis. Turrets: Mantlet. Cupola. Medium Tanks VK 3002 DB Hull: Lower glacis. Driver's hatch, MG port. Upgraded Turret: Everywhere but mantlet. Stock Turret: Anywhere. T-43 Hull: The big square hatch for the driver. Lower glacis Upgraded Turret: Anywhere. Stock Turret: Anywhere. A-44 Hull: There's only 2 spots that's 150mm, they are immediately below the tow hooks and on the same level as the two machine guns. Beyond that, shoot the turret. Turrets: Anywhere but the mantlet. Even then, the mantlet is 120mm. T20 Hull/Turrets: This medium tank is also not encumbered by ridiculous things like steel plating. T-34-1 Hull: Anywhere really. It's not that strong. Ammo rack/fuel tank behind headlight. Upgraded Turret: Cupola. Anything above 200mm pen can go through turret. Stock Turret: Anywhere. Comet Hull: Anywhere. Upgraded Turret: Avoid mantlet. Stock Turret: Anywhere. Tank Destroyers Jagdpanther Hull: Lower glacis, MG mount. Try not to hit the mantlet. SU-100M1 Hull: Avoid the mantlet. SU-122-44 Hull: Avoid the mantlet. SU-152 Hull: See ISU-152 T25 AT Hull: Anywhere but the mantlet. Cupola. T25-2 Hull: Virtually anywhere. Turrets: Anywhere but the mantlet. AMX AC Mle. 1946 Hull: Lower hull, commander's MG turret. Rangefinder turret, the rangefinder bar itself is spaced armour. Shooting the bar does no damage. Driver's viewport. AT-7 Hull: Various cupolas. MG port on the right side. AT-15A Hull: Cupolas. Go around. Requests AT-2 Hull: Cupola. AT-8 Hull: Cupolas, MG port on the left side. VK 3601 Hull: MG mount, driver's viewport Upgraded Turret: Commander's cupola Stock Turret: Commander's cupola M4A3E2 Hull: MG mount "Upgraded" Turret: Area beside the mantlet Stock Turret: No exceptional weaknesses. Try hull instead. KV Hull: MG mount, driver's viewport, lower glacis. This tank is quite well armoured all round, but similar tiered guns can penetrate well barring bad angles. Upgraded Turret: Shoot the flat parts that are not part of the mantlet. The turret is quite high off the hull, you can hit the traverse mechanism quite easily as well. Ammo rack is located in the rear, below the huge square crew hatch. Stock Turret: Shoot hull instead, frontal stock turret has few non sloped parts, and rounded mantlet bounces quite a few shots. T1 Heavy Hull: Area where the hull MG mount is, driver's viewport. This area is not exactly weak, but it is not sloped so you can easily penetrate with guns above 120mm penetration. Upgraded Turret: Easier to just shoot hull. Stock Turret: Commander's cupola. 38H735 (f) [aka Hotchkiss] Hull: Driver's hatch, lower glacis (knocks out engine if penetrated) Turret: Commander's hatch. Gun.
  10. 1 point
    Deusmortis

    Light Tank Hijinks

    A funny moment in my Luchs from our TCs earlier tonight.
  11. 1 point
    Ruwed

    Your favorite random humorous moments

    Was platooned up with a buddy, I was in my T-29 and he was in his T4 arty. He likes arty. Anyhow. So no shit, there I was. End of the match, there are two enemy tanks left. One is a medium up on the northern side near the tracks, the other is a IS-3 who is hiding under the bridge playing peek-a-boom with me. I'm down to around 600 health, he has about 500 or so. I am on TS with my buddy, who is at this point very frustrated, he has had no shots all game. It's about the IS-3's reload time so I am patiently waiting for him to stick his nose out again. Out of blue on TS I hear my buddy say "Fuck this!". Naturally my curiosity is peaked, but being the diligent tanker I am I keep my eye on the IS-3 lest he pop out and make me pay for my distraction. I am zoomed all the way in, when suddenly my buddies T4 arty comes barreling into my reticule! I zoom out in amazement as he proceeds to round the corner to the IS-3 at full speed. He gets a shot off point blank, he hit for 400 and change, never even slowed down, proceeded to ram the IS-3 for the final kill of the match. We laughed for a good long while just trying to imagine the poor IS-3's reaction to it. Right after that game was when I turned replays on.
  12. 1 point
    Marduk

    Terms that need defined, please!

    I'll be in my bunk.
  13. 1 point
    CarbonWard

    Pearl River Help

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nQX7BqQmE4 How to take the outskirt. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qL2tGvGckU How to take valley. Both from south spawn.
  14. 1 point
    You explained the point in your own words. I bolded them to make it easy: It also elongates if your landing area is slopped away from you It is quite possible to get an elongated cursor for shots that are very distant, you just need to pick your shots and also abuse the terrain near your own vehicle. To explain my whole post really simply: It is in the interest of an arty player to try and line up shots that result in an elongated aiming cursor because the shell has a much small chance of missing overall when it is travelling nearly horizontal to the target.
  15. 1 point
    NesTon

    Artillery Troll Platoon

    Poor arty in city map
  16. 1 point
    Viruzzz

    vbaddict -looks- cool...

    'Søg efter' is just Danish for 'search for' hitting enter returns this: From there just navigate to \wargaming.net\WorldOfTanks\dossier_cache\ Your folder structure will have some other name than Rune, it will be whatever your windows account is named. Also copy pasting %APPDATA%\Wargaming.net\WorldOfTanks\dossier_cache into the adress field will give you this same folder but all in one go. there are several of these shortcuts, most windows users don't know about them though (not that they need to)
  17. 1 point
    HibachiSniper

    vbaddict -looks- cool...

    %APPDATA% is telling windows to use your configured appdata folder for your user. If you open Windows Explorer and type "%APPDATA%" (without the quotes) and hit enter it will take you to the right folder for the user account you're logged in as. For example, on my machine it references "C:\Users\(My Username)\AppData\Roaming".
  18. 1 point
    8k damage isn't enough to carry replay Defeat!, M48A1, Siegfried Line, 6/7/13 10:26 AM: 1,158 nXP, 7,843 dmg Pics
  19. 1 point
    Losses don't irk me, stupid play does. I'm critique my own play as harshly as I critique others. (one of my annotations that I didn't post involved quite a bit of swearing at allowing an E8 to flank my KT for 600 damage)
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    We tend to give more credit to the originators of said humour... i wonder who was behind that OARful account???
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    cod1933

    SEA's Top 10 Clans.

    i asked around this isn't just my opinion, pbkac when performing good we can beat the best but it doesn't always work out that way.
  24. 1 point
    Ezz

    SEA's Top 10 Clans.

    To be fair... i was going to post something to the same effect... respected... lol... I just wish we could neg STK. He really is a knob. I guess +1 for the seal clubbing shut down is as close as i'll get.
  25. 1 point
    Fire Extinguishers are too expensive for premium tanks.when you shoot twice and die. "I fucked your mother." Best_insult_NA. Huehuehue
  26. 1 point
    Buccaneer

    The Funny Thread

  27. 1 point
    I did 1600 damage to orangyvv today in 183. Gud times. He was on our team btw.
  28. 1 point
    CarbonWard

    IS-7 Definitive Guide [Removed]

    I would suggest at least 30% gold round load out on any tank, because if you somehow shot 70% of your regular ammo, that is a clear indication that the situation is dire.
  29. 1 point
    ArmoredCorps

    How do you improve?

    As stated flatly or in-as-many words, decision making, and not mere driving and gun control, are what make unicums. If you don't already have a firm grasp of the core game mechanics, you need to. If you don't have a finer understanding of things like the time after-being spotted (I call it the 'residual spot' where you're still on the map for a few seconds after the last enemy eye can detect you), proximity spots (50M), double-bushing, etc., you need to. These are situational, tactical tools which enhance your survivability. If you're not adept at scouting, brawling, medium play or SPG's on this account, you need to think about free xp'ing into every class of vehicles so you can keep up an understanding of those vehicles as the game gets continuously patched, esp. with the 8.6+ era of penetration nerf-creep and arty... changes. (I refuse to say nerfs anymore) Finally, when you simply think you got the driving aspect of the game down, you need to read guides like Garbad's about how and why he makes decisions, and realize that decisions aren't made in a vacuum -- they're made with an available set of information every player can potentially pick up in the game, starting with platoon composition (tier, tanks, players), then team, enemy and allied, map, spawn, how heavy arty are, if one team is stacked on lights/meds/heavies/td's, make predictions if they'll camp, rush, play conservatively, etc., and finally, just observe and learn how games flow on maps. ======================================= Half or more of being a unicum is map reading, flexing, and generalized decision making. And what's required to make the right decisions is taking in as much information as quickly as possible, all the time. Situational awareness, short and long-term recall (of tank positions for the former, of armor layouts and gun capabilities as an example of the latter), are the foundation of good decision making. So this is what you should focus most strongly on.
  30. 1 point
    Fattty

    D-Day Event

    As long as they choose crew bonus over experience I don't care about the rest of the sales.
  31. 1 point
    That is because in this game, the idiot sits on the front slope of the tank trying to catch the incoming rounds himself.
  32. 1 point
    Rela

    Show Off Your Rig

    My tanking station: Case: Thermaltake Level 10 GT CPU: Intel Core i7 3770k Heatsink: Noctua NH-D14 RAM: G.SKILL Sniper DDR3 1866 16gb Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 PSU: RAIDMAX RX-1000AE 1000W Video: XFX Double D 7970 GHz Storage: x2 256GB OCZ Vertex 4 (OS and Games) x2 1TB (Random Drives for Storage) Inside Main Door: Random other odds and ends: Mouse- R.A.T. 7 Infection Keyboard- BlackWidow Ultimate Mousepad- Goliathus Extended Speakers- Logitech Z-5500
  33. 1 point
    CraBeatOff

    T34 heavy, what equipment?

    The rammer adds 10% to dpm. 1600 to 1760 dpm. 1760 is still crap at tier 8. Forget the rammer. Instead use vents vstab and gld for full aim time and dispersion minimization. Get BiA and snapshot smoothride offroad. Run cola...with prem you only need 2 pens to pay for cola and repairs. This is the only setup that has made the t34 acceptable for me. Plus your reload with bia vents and cola is almost the same as with the rammer.
  34. 1 point
    rtp099

    IS-7 History and development

    Thanks for sharing the info!
  35. 1 point
    I've played the PTA on the test server - accuracy changes + new camera, and the tank felt much more solid. As for tier 10 mediums, nerfs in HEAT pen means tougher time against IS-7's, E3's, T95's and most armored things from the front.
  36. 1 point
    kittikat

    Will you guys return to tier X now?

    Yeah, I find a lot more concentration of better players in the high tiers. It's quite enjoyable. And then you see the guy with 10k games, 200 wn7, and 43% wr rolling up in his E-100...
  37. 1 point
    Tier 10 is the best for me regardless of artillery, because there's always a higher concentration of green players. Makes for some good matches when you can rely more on your teammates to not derp and die like in lower tiers.
  38. 1 point
    BeLiAL124

    Unicum Platoon List

    This threads starting to be more about how to train, then an actual list of available trainers.
  39. 1 point
    Here's a list of Garbad apologists who don't own a tier 8 artillery yet think they're more knowledgeable than people who do I'd like to shame: Blackhorse_Six Nezmith DanQuayle Agamemneon NavySnipers HeavyTwenty _Goliard Tenet CowsGoMeow Alhazred Yerts cynthash S204STi kittikatt #gobigorgohome #youonlyyoloonce Continually provoking other members, we've had enough nonsense from the Garbad situation, don't need you trying to keep it alive. Seven day RO. - Solono
  40. 1 point
    Echo_Sniper

    The 8.6 Arty Buff

    I seriously hope he doesn't come back. GD was a nice place to be before he came. Because, yes, there is a before. I was there, I remember and it was nice. Exactly. If you've seen what Banned posted on CRD mocking Garbad's attitude. How can we have any kind of discussion when his position is not to tolerate anyone who disagree with him? I mean, FFS, what kind of position is that? This alone should discredit him to start with. We're better off without him. And as Qumefox said, there are much better players with deeper knowledge and better communicating skills than he does. And those players don't have oversized egos, have reality checks once in a while and aren't looking for approval at everything they do. Lert, Sadukar, Antoniohandsome, carbonward, and to some extent kewei will be more than enough.
  41. 1 point
    Qumefox

    The 8.6 Arty Buff

    I feel the opposite.. IMHO, very little Garbad contributed anywhere, couldn't be contributed by other people. There are plenty of people around better at tanks and less padded than him after all. Garbad was just quick about flaunting his skills through videos etc because it let him wave his E-peen in peoples faces and get +1's for it.. To summarize, he was doing it to stroke his ego, anyone actually getting helped by it was just secondary.. Which is evidenced by his immediate resorting to personal attacks whenever anything he posted was questioned. I personally will miss neither his ego, nor his borderline psychotic anti-arty drivel on this forum.
  42. 1 point
    sela

    Equipment Consensus: Equipment Tiers

    GROUSERS ON EVERYTHING
  43. 1 point
    AntonioHandsome

    myhiddenvices

    please don't forget your o7 it makes ignoring posts really tedious. me irl like 2 years ago. o7 -antonia
  44. 1 point
    Sadukar09

    VK 36.01 (H) Turret Upgrade

    The mantlet on the upgraded turret is slight stronger. 80mm stock vs. 100mm.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Garbad

    Garbad Reviews The Tier 8 Premiums

    I thought I did as well. I no longer see an option for it.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Garbad

    YO

    wat
  50. 1 point
    Garbad

    A useful calculator

    http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php ... d-windows/ Note that the camo values are different than the norm.
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