https://www.techpowerup.com/303854/psa-intel-i226-v-2-5gbe-on-raptor-lake-motherboards-has-a-connection-drop-issue-no-fix-available

https://www.igorslab.de/en/evga-pulls-the-plug-with-loud-bang-yet-it-has-long-been-editorial/

https://www.techpowerup.com/298960/evga-announces-cancelation-of-nvidia-next-gen-graphics-cards-plans-officially-terminates-nvidia-partnership

Lets stick with userbenchmarks. I ve been active in the PC world (online) for more than 15 years. Before you brought that site up, it never was on my radar. Might be that I stumbeled over it in the past, but I put it aside as useless - the whole idea and presentation is nonsense for everyone who knows a thing or two about benchmarking and PC building. This site has no buisiness being on top of any generic search listing when it comes to usefull benchmarks. I'm running on a ~7 year old installation of W7 that 's totally cluttered. Do you think that is good datapoint in any performance benc

No. I don't know how it works, but I know there are thousands of advertising/marketing companies that focus mainly on optimizing positioning in online search results and user reviews. Google itself also somehow has fingers in that pie making money directly and indirectly with companies competing for the top spots. How exactly it works I have no idea, as 'mm not interested in that topic. Maybe someone else here can explain it or point you in the right direction.

Any results?

You can "buy" your placement in the search results.

If you have the option, get a UPS at least for testing purposes. Should be easy to see if the electrical circuits in your home are the culprits and worth further investigation.

What do you mean by that?

Oh I know that. Though I'm no audiophile by any means, I try to keep up to date with PC audio for obvious reasons. I just wanted to highlight this and Igors work in general, as there arn't many usefull articels when it comes to PC audio in general. You either have the audiophiles in hifi forums with their "über aurum plated connectors on quantum cables" or "user impressions" dressed up as part of motherboard reviews.

The author is the real deal - german engineer, lead author of TH germany for~15 years until they were purchased by Purch (same as Anandtech). The guy Steve from Gamers Nexus tries to emulate when it comes to testing ;-) https://www.igorslab.de/en/disadvantages-of-onboard-sounds-influence-of-graphics-card-head-sensitivity-and-motherboardlayout-igorslab/

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/asus-radeon-rx-6500-xt-tuf-gaming/31.html with interactive graphs https://www-computerbase-de.translate.goog/thema/grafikkarte/rangliste/?_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp ...

Don't know the site, don't use the site - don't care, especially considering the name. "Average" user and usefull benchmarks are two things that exclude themself.

Would be nice, if you made it clear what you 're talking about.

Forgot something, if your system is stable atm, make a BIOS Update before you start messing around.

There a many 8GB DIMMs that can do CL 14 (or lower) at 3000 MHz. With 16 GB DIMMs Its a different story, they usually don't clock nearly as well. Increasing Freq. by 25% is a big step (you can try 2666 MHz in between). CL16 @3000 MHz is pretty relaxed. CL14 in your case is marketing gag anyway, as the rest of the timings are loose anyway for that speed (2400 MHz).

@FlorbFnarb If everything runs well in the next week(s) and you want to gain a little performance, manually set your DRAM voltage to 1,35V, your CAS Lantency (CL) to 16 or 15 and your DRAM Freqency to 1500 (3000) MHz. The rest leave at it is. Most DDR4 (even 16GB) DIMMs should be able to handle that nowdays without much fiddling around. Leave your fingers off secondary or tertiary timings.

Memtest your RAM over night, stick by stick outside of windows.

Atm it looks like 2133 MHz. Go into your BIOS, go to OC Tweaker -> DRAM Configuration -> Load XMP Setting + Save&Exit and check with CPUz like I said above.

Jul_Le is right. 2133 MHz is the JEDEC baseline for DDR4 for max compatibilty at the 1st start up. You 'll have to load the XMP1 Proffile +Save&Exit +Reboot to apply it. You can also check under Windows with CPU-Z (memory tab), if the corrrect profile is applied.

I get your drift, but you forgot one or two important things. 1) Yes you can get 20-50% from switching from Skylake to the latest and greatest Intel/AMD platform, BUT you 've got have the right GPU to get those kind of gains. And a 1070 sure doen't fall in that category. Anything below 2800/TI level of perforrmance and you end up with 10 - 30% depending on the application, edge cases aside! 2) By the time GPU prices will be down to a somewhat reasonable level, current top of line AMD/Intel CPUs won't be top of line any longer. -> Why blow 500+€ now for marginal gains (he 's

Sorry - I don't get your question. LoL as far as I'm aware is nothing more than a mobile game (for todays PC HW). And AoE IV should at least run at around 50-60 avg FPS with your hardware @ 1440p, after looking at some benches. That game isn't a shooter/fast paced game (pro gamers aside) so 100+FPS avg arn't that important, and considering the "current" GPU shortage upgrading in that regard isn't advisable. - Upgrading the PSU alone is nonsense, if the PC is working fine (Prime95 small FFTs with 3 cores + 1 Core for Furemark makes a good full load test in your case.)