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Found 3 results

  1. I would like to understand invisibility better. Once more, this is the blitz sub-forum so any answers should preferably apply to blitz (although the subject is interesting anyway). Under what conditions can a tank with/within/behind: - universal camouflage - season/terrain specific camouflage - camouflage netting - bushes and/or trees be seen? What about combos of the above? Are there any other things affecting visibility besides those mentioned?
  2. Most of you have heard some players discuss the camouflage values of a tank and possibly they threw around some numbers 16.87%/12.65%/3.34%. If you have no clue what those numbers mean, this is the guide for you. If you have ever driven (or seen someone drive) your (their) AMX 13 90 on the Malinovka field while spotting tonnes of enemy tanks and not getting counter-spotted, without understanding why, this is the guide for you. I will in this guide explain what the camouflage values mean, how they affect your view range in game and how the spotting range is calculated. I will NOT discuss the effect of single-double-triple bushes in detail in this guide. There are several other guides on this subject. I will also NOT go into detail how to exploit the spotting system. This will not be the most advanced guide. This should be considered basic stuff for any player aiming to be blue or higher. All camouflage values in this guide are taken from the following document. I want to highlight that this document is not my creation. I am just linking to it. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1w9YYhDuNWJKSdIPesGhS4YkZJodEqUSFoomumMWYynA/edit?pli=1#gid=355532698 Camouflage values In the simplest terms: The camouflage value of a tank is indicative of how stealthy the particular tank is. The greater the camouflage value is, the harder a given vehicle is to spot. Each tank in the game has three camouflage values: one for when it is stationary, moving and shooting. All scouts tanks (except the T-54 LT for some reason) have the same camouflage when stationary and moving (one of their only advantages over medium tanks). As an example let us look at some camouflage values: Bat Chat 25t camouflage values: 16.87%/12.65%/3.34% AMX 13 90 camouflage values: 17.67%/17.67%/4.21% AMX 50b camouflage values: 3.82%/1.94%/0.53% So without going into detail about what these numbers mean in practice we can see a few things from this simple comparison. The AMX 13 90 has the same camouflage value for moving and stationary confirming that it is a scout. The Bat Chat is almost the same as an AMX 13 90 when stationary and slightly worse when moving. The AMX 50b is not a well-camouflaged tank. Even when stationary and NOT shooting it has worse camouflage values than an AMX 13 90 blazing away. Protip: do not go camo-sniping in your 50b. Camouflage values in practice Now what does the 17.67% camouflage of the AMX 13 90 mean in practice? It is part of the (quite elaborate) calculation that is carried out when the game determines if two vehicles can spot each other. You can ignore the calculation and use a simplified calculation if you just want to understand in broad terms how the camouflage of your tank affects the spotting range of any enemy tanks trying to spot you. You can also look at the proper calculation in way more detail if you want to fully understand how different crew skills, consumables and equipment influence the spotting calculations. I will now go through both the simplified and advanced way of calculation the spotting range. I will assume you know basic math, but I will try to make everything as clear as possible for those who might feel a bit rusty on the old calculus. You can decide for yourself which of the two sections you want to read. Simplified calculation The simple way to calculate how a camouflage value affects the view range of the spotting tank is: spottingRange = ViewRange * (1 – camoValue) So if you are in an E100 (view range = 400 m) and you are trying to spot an AMX 13 90 moving across a field (AMX 13 90 moving camouflage = 17.67%) the formula looks like this: spottingRange = 400 m * (1 – 0.1767) = 329.32 m This shows you the practical result of a higher camouflage value. The higher the percentage the camouflage has, the equally higher percentage will be taken of the view range of the spotting tank. If we do the same calculation but with an ELC AMX (camouflage value of 21.89% when moving) we find that the spotting range of the E100 is now: spottingRange = 400 m * (1 – 0.2189) = 312.44 m So from this calculation we can see that the ELC AMX can move 17 m closer to an E100 compared to an AMX 13 90 without being spotted. Now you might be thinking: “But when will the AMX 13 90 or ELC spot the E100?”. This is easily calculated using the same formula. We know the view range of the AMX 13 90 and ELC AMX (400 m and 360 m respectively) and the camouflage value of a stationary E100 is 2.91%: spottingRange1390 = 400 m * (1 – 0.0291) = 388.36 m spottingRangeELC = 360 * (1 – 0.0291) = 349.52 m So the AMX 13 90 will have a “window” of 60 m to move around in where the AMX 13 90 will have the E100 spotted but the E100 will not spot the AMX 13 90. For the ELC this window is only 37 m because of the poor view range on the ELC. Now a word of warning: all of these calculations are SIMPLIFIED calculations. They ignore anything outside base values, so no crew skills, consumables or equipment is taken into account. This is especially important in regards to view range enhancing skills and equipment. If you want a slightly more precise calculation you can take any optical equipment into account. Coated optics adds 10% to the base view range and binoculars add 25% to the view range of a stationary vehicle. Advanced calculation The advanced calculation is using the following formula: spottingRange = effectiveViewRange – (effectiveViewRange – 50) * camoFactor That doesn’t look to bad, does it? You take the effective view range and subtract the effective view range minus 50 m (the proximity spotting range) and multiplied with the camo factor of your tank. Easy stuff, right? Sadly this is only the main formula. There are two supporting formulas to calculate the effectiveViewRange and camoFactor. Let us start with the camoFactor. The formula is as follows: camoFactor = baseCamo * (0.00375 * camoSkill + 0.5) * camoAtShot + camoPattern + camoNet + environmentCamo Now this may seem like a big mouthful with a lot of strange labels and coefficients, so I will try to break it down for you: The baseCamo is the camouflage value of the tank either moving or stationary, exactly as I explained in the start of this guide, and it is multiplied with the camoSkill (along with some coefficients) and camoAtShot. The camoSkill is the ‘effective’ camo skill of the crew members. This is a combination of the crew camo training, commander skill level, premium food consumable, improved ventilations equipment and the perk Brothers in Arms. The camoAtShot is the camouflage value for firing the gun. If you want to calculate for a tank that is not firing, this factor is neglected. After these three factors are multiplied, you add the following: camoPattern, the bonus for any camo patterns (value depends on vehicle type); camoNet, the bonus for active camo net (10% for mediums/lights, 5% for heavies and cancer, and 15% for TD’s); and finally environmentCamo, the bonus from any bushes the tank might be hiding behind (single, double or triple bushes). So now you know what goes into calculating the actual camouflage value of a tank, let us now take a look at the effectiveViewRange factor. Sadly I have not been able to find a formula like I did for camoFactor, so I can only list the different factors that influence the effective view range of a tank. Each tank has a base view range, similar to their base camouflage values. This base view range is then subject to different factors (again, similar to the base camouflage values). First off there is the equipment of coated optics and binocular telescopes that adds 10% and 25% respectively (although binoculars only active when stationary). Then there is the effective primary skill of the commander which is controlled by his own training, improved ventilations, Brothers in Arms and premium food. Lastly there are also the recon and situational awareness crew skills for the commander and radioman respectively. In total, if you mount/train everything that can possibly enhance the view range it is possible to increase the base view range by an amazing 44.5-ish%. This means that a tank with 400 m view range will have an effective view range of 577.90 m. Now I hear you ask: Why would I want to have a 558 m view range when the maximum view range is hard-capped at 445 m? If you limit your view range to 445 m you will not be able to spot anything at maximum spotting range – because the camo factor of all tanks will decrease your view range down below max spotting range. If you on the other hand have an effective view range of 500 m the camo factor of some tanks will not be able to force it under the maximum spotting range and you will indeed spot them as soon as they enter the maximum spotting range. I could now give you a practical example of both camoFactor and effectiveViewRange, but that would quickly become a mess and a waste of the time of everybody. Instead I highly recommend you go play with the camo-calculator on wotinfo.net (http://www.wotinfo.net/en/camo-calculator). Here you can type in your vehicle name together with an enemy vehicle to counter-spot your vehicle. You can then see how the camouflage values (and spotting ranges) changes depending on all the different factors mentioned above. It is a great tool to play with, and understand, how the camouflage works. I hope you learned something from this guide. I certainly did, which is always a nice plus. If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to ask or comment away.
  3. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/228710-anatomy-of-a-capture-defense/). Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/304916-lerts-guide-to-being-the-invisitank-camouflage-and-spotting-basics/) How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/284733-lerts-guide-to-picking-your-fights/) You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/159638-lerts-thread-of-duh-or-mspaint-schematics-explaining-gameplay-basics/) Tank selection(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/251985-about-vehicle-types-roles-and-playstyle/) There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/273627-lerts-guides-to-shells-shell-types-and-shell-mechanics/) There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/212496-why-the-famed-center-rush-is-usually-a-monumentally-moronic-idea/) This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/198457-how-to-deal-with-autoloaders/). French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT http://rocketbrainsurgeon.com/category/world-of-tanks/ http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/186917-lerts-collection-of-guides/ http://wiki.worldoftanks.com/Main_Page General hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/forum/405-survival-guide/) Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/98891-lerts-easy-tips-for-beginners/) 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check wotlabs.net for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts
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