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  1. A new German Tier IX medium tank will soon be sent to the Supertest: the Kunze Panzer. http://cdn-frm-eu.wargaming.net/wot/eu/uploads/monthly_12_2020/post-553021262-0-87578200-1607682882.jpg The main feature of this vehicle is its Siege Mode. As opposed to the Swedish medium tanks (and the STB-1), Siege Mode is not switched on automatically in the Kunze Panzer. You have to enable it manually as with the Swedish tank destroyers. Additionally, another feature of the vehicle is the way its turret is mounted: it's tilted 5 degrees forwards. In Siege Mode, the gun depression angle is increased (up to -15 degrees considering the turret's tilt) and shooting accuracy is improved at the cost of decreased maneuverability, gun stabilization, and rate of fire. With a 390 hit points damage per shot, the standard APCR shell penetrates 268 mm, and the special HEAT shell penetrates 300 mm of armor. The vehicle's armor is rather thin. Its turret has only 63 mm of steel in the front and the vehicle's durability is 1,600 hit points. The Kunze Panzer is very different from normal medium tanks. It plays the role of a positional sniper in Siege Mode, and it can efficiently support its allies at medium ranges in Travel Mode thanks to its high damage per minute. Its full potential can only be reached if both gameplay styles are combined in the right way. So if a PTA and a STB having having sex it wont be a PTC or STC but a Kunze instead? Forum why wont you just let me add this stupid pictures :/
  2. Originally I didn't plan on continuing the 430 line after the 416 but I didn't like the latter that much so I went ahead and bought the tier 9 pancake. Obligatory pic of tenk (will make new when I get home to my beloved GTX660 oh yes) A deeper look into vehicle characteristics; Gun: OK Armor: OK View range: OK Camo: OK Mobility: OK Gund handling: NOT OK Arty-protection: WHAT PROTECTION? Seriously though, this tank is one of the underdogs on the battlefield and I just love it. You constantly have to work to use all the strengths (gun, view range) and to mitigate the weaknesses (gun depression, low profile) but when it works, oh boy... Another pro is that you don't have to research the next gun (if you haven't already) as the stock one is obviously superior. You don't need the tracks for any upgrade/equipment either and the engine barely makes a difference (in HP). Something else that surprised me (and that you don't have as often with the 416), is the amount of bounces you can pull off with that armor. The values (hull) are the same as the T-54, but it's obviously angled quite a bit better. Try to keep some distance to your enemy to prevent them shooting down on the top of your tank. Turret armor values are superior to the T-54. I haven't checked with tank inspector yet but it would surprise me if the effective armor was less. When you see that E100 turning his turret. After non-damaging impact What else is there to like... Sidescraping actually works. Despite the low armor you can still work with your sides if you peek quickly (which you can thanks to that rear-mounted turret). People tend to shoot tracks... Surely I've forgotten some things... What's your experience? Edit: didn't know Garbad already did a review (http://wotlabs.net/articles/object-430-ii-review/)
  3. Hello! I am currently playing without any goals and I do not know what tank to get. I started out with the German tech-tree. I have the PZ IV H in my garage and I have played quite a lot of battles in it. To be honest I got quite disappointed with the PZ IV H. I am currently using the 105 mm cannon but I struggle with it. I do not know what tank to get next. The VK 30.01 (P) seems like a natural choice since it is one of the next tanks in the tree. I will stay away from the VK 36.01 because I have heard that it is awful. I do not have any long term goals in this game (except for being good at the game). I am not one of the players that plays the game to unlock the Tiger. I just want to find good tanks that I can enjoy playing. My question here is directed to those who have played the VK 30.01 (P). Is it a good tank? Should I get it? Please also tell me what I should keep in mind if I get it.
  4. I couldn't really find a decent thread discussing the 30B, the only thread I did see was Shrew asking if the tank had any point, and he seemed to have only played it on the test server at that point where it's hard to get a very precise idea of how a tank plays. On paper, the 30B looks a little worse than the leo in most respects, and I was happy to believe it, as I already have a Leo 1, and I don't want to have to grind out 200,000 XP on the 13 90 just to get a worse leo, but I'm beginning to have doubts that it is worse after a friend of mine (who I respect as a very good player) with over 700 games in the Leo 1 insisted that it's actually better than the Leo. He wrote an article on Reddit about it in which he said this: What I want to know is, does anyone else feel the same way? Does anyone else feel differently? Do I need to spam APCR for another 120 games in the 13 90? How can mirrors be real if our eyes aren't real?
  5. I don't think this tank has a dedicated thread, or if it does, it hasn't been posted in for 12+ months. So, once in a while, you probably drag your Cromwell(B) out and think "What happens if I put manageable gun handling and decent armor on this?" You get the 3002 M (henceforth referred to as the mini-Panther). Pros: Armor buff on the upper plate gives it 130mm effective armor which trolls lower tier mediums and some tier 6 scouts. VERY fun to bully with the armor on this thing. Second best in-class gun handling for the tier, combined with a lean aiming time of 2.21 and base accuracy of .34 making it an excellent sniper and overall above average snapshotter. weighs 40+ tons. She's a big girl and placing your meaty girth upon helpless 20 ton tier 4s with too little armor is too fun to pass up. Especially with all those Swedish TDs that are like feathers. Gonna place another bullet here for big rams because seriously, anything worth ramming you can catch up to on a downhill slope. 45-50 cruising on flat terrain, 55 definitely downhill means nothing runs away when you attempt to ram it. The Average: Middling DPM. Not as much as a Crom, not as much as an Easy 8, but more than the 34-85 and T25 and Strv 74. Middling speed. Outpaces the slow stuff that you're scared of, you can run away from a flank if you don't overcommit but you're a little iffy on those speedy cap resets. I lost a game because the speed was a little lackluster and couldn't reset. Mildly above average view range, but not enough to warrant a pro. It's 370, which means you can run optics if you run food with it. I prefer binos, for a sweet 486 when bitch camping or trying to spot. Cons: Relatively big with thin side armor. 40mm side armor means the countless 85mm+ guns get 2x overmatch on you making it very hard to sidescrape. You also get raped inside-out if you expose your side to the 105mm HE hoses. Relatively low camo. Not like a cromwell where you get light tank camo. So yeah, lovely tank. Got my first mark after about 30-35 games, getting top tier is like kicking puppies and when bottom tier, you have enough DPM to make anyone be seriously annoyed. The buffs to its armor were probably more effective than the mild gun dispersion buffs. You turn into a pseudo-heavy when fighting tier 5s and tier 4s are just food for you.
  6. The Matilda, a Tier-IV tank that is often underrated and ridiculed for its ponderously slow speed. However, it makes up its lack of speed with many other great strengths. For me, the Matilda is a Tier-V heavy in all but speed, HP, and damage-per-shot. Tank Stats: Hit Points: 340 HP (370 with upgraded turret)Engine Power: 174 hp (190 hp with upgraded engine)Speed Limit: 24 km/h (about 15 mp/h)Hull Traverse: 34 deg/sTurret Traverse: 34 deg/s Power/Wt Ratio 6.57 hp/t (7.17 hp/t with upgraded engine)Hull Armor: 75/70/55 mmTurret Armor: 75/75/75 mmView Range: 330 m (340 m with upgraded turret)Signal Range 350 m (450 m with top radio)Crew: 4Commander (Radio Operator)GunnerDriverLoaderGun Stats:Name: QF 2-pdr Mk. X-BAmmo Count: 92Average Damage: 55/55 HPAverage Penetration: 121/145 mmAmmo Costs: 35/800 (2 Gold)Fire Rate: 28.57 r/m (2.1 second reload)Accuracy: 0.36 mAim Time: 1.9 sDepression/Elevation: -10°/+20°Now with the numbers out of the way. The Matilda, while listed as a Tier-4 Medium, plays more like a Heavy. While slow, it has armor that is comparable to a KV-1. The Matilda has great front armor with a small, compact, and well-angled 75mm front. The sides, while a decent 70mm, is mostly flat. It's long, narrow profile makes sidescraping somewhat feasible. The rear is a reasonable 55. The turret is 75mm all-around. In games where it is top tank, you can safely ignore all other tanks. TDs and other Matildas are your only threats in Tier-IV. View and Radio Range for a Tier-IV is decent. However it's far too slow to be of any use of a scouting role except for late game. For mobility, the Matlida is a bit of an oddball. With a transmission that only allows 24 km/h of speed and an underwhelming power-to-weight ratio, the Matilda is undeniably slow. It doesn't get much of a boost going downhill and it absolutely crawls in poor terrain. Don't even think about going uphill in this tank. However the Matilda boasts a speedy hull and gun traverse speed 34 deg/s for a combined 68 deg/s traverse. Meaning that it's great for taking out suiscouts in your line of fire and is impossible for more mobile tanks to circle it. Now the gun. The top gun is the X-B. The most standout trait of this gun is its 121 average penetration, or a range of 91-151 mm of penetration. This thing can even penetrate higher tiered heavies at range. It can also penetrate itself on decent penetration rolls. The X-B is a high RoF, low-damage, high-pen gun. A single shot on it's own will do only a measly 41-69, but it can throw damage out every two seconds with virtually guaranteed penetration. APCR gives a modest boost to penetration, use it as extra insurance to penetrate harder targets. It's great for taking out tanks that are tunnel-visioned on other targets. It also has a great psychological impact, throwing out penetrating shots every two seconds, while for meager damage, can rattle poorer players. Another great aspect of the gun is the 10 degrees of depression and 75mm of front turret armor. The Matilda can be a great hull-down sniper tank where it can't afford to have it's meager HP pool touched. Pros: Armor: this tank is outright impervious to all lower-tier tanks and can bounce bigger guns as well.Penetration: the X-B can reliably penetrate even Tier-VI tanks.High RoF: my Matilda boasts a 1.77 second reload.Quick Traverse: with 68 deg/s combined hull and gun traverse, it can always face threats head on, and can retaliate reliably against circling tanks.Excellent Depression: with -10 degrees of depression, it can easily hull-down with its 75mm thick turret.Accurate on the Move: The X-B has a "miss fast" mentality. Any misses can be followed up quickly on with a penetrating hit.Often Underestimated: there is a certain lack of "fear factor" to the Matilda and is a relative unknown.Cons:HP: as a Tier-IV tank, it's HP is average. However as a "heavy" its HP pool is meager. Penetrations are costly and it can be taken down easily by higher tiered tanks and HEAT-derps that are common at Tier-V. It's possibly to be one-shotted by M4/PzIV HEAT shells and TDs that can also use HEAT.Slow: This goes without saying. A roflstomp means you're too far behind to contribute and its slow speed makes it inflexible to changing fronts.Low Alpha: At only 50 average damage per shot, even Tier-III tanks need multiple hits to down.Suggested Equipment:Rammer: Maximize your already high RoF.Vents: RoF, Aim time, AccuracyEnhanced Gun Laying Drive: Keeps Aim time in line with RoFToolbox: Cut down track repair timeCoated Optics: Maximize late-game use of your accuracySuggested Consumables:Repair KitHealth KitPremium Repair KitCrew Skills:Commander: Sixth Sense, Repair, BIA, Recon/Situational AwarenessGunner: Snap Shot, Repair, BIA, Designated TargetDriver: Off-road Driving, Repair, BIALoader: Repair, Adrenaline Rush, BIAClosing notes: this is my first tank guide and I'm just doing a tank I'm familiar with in my limited experience. Any sections to change/add and suggestions I will be glad to take. Sources: 200 Matilda battles with a 60% WRWoT Wiki
  7. FV4202 is slowly becoming from the worst t8 prem med to the best. This is too great!! CentAX is pretty much the same the buff isn't that significant but Cent 7/1 also gets a big buff. The new characteristics of some British Medium tanks are soon to be tested on the Supertest server! British MTs have excellent elevation angles and a good view range, but unfortunately, the turret isn't strong enough for allowing you to fully take advantage of these top British vehicles. That’s exactly why we plan to improve the front armor of Medium tanks turrets starting from Tier VIII to Tier X. The effective armor will now start from 240mm, which will allow you to play more confidently on terrain folds and to feel less vulnerable. British premium MT FV4202 was not ignored either. Besides improving the front of the turret (common for all top Medium tanks), we’ll also improve the armor of the front hull so it reaches 223mm effective armor. Due to tht, FV 4202 will be able to fight with opponents using its strong front. Moreover, we’ll increase the engine power to 650 h.p., which will allow this tank to reach its maximum speed quicker, become more mobile and dynamic overall.
  8. LostCosmonaut

    Strv m/42

    The Strv m/42 will be the tier 5 medium tank in the Swedish tech tree. It's going to be entering a pretty crowded field, there's a lot of tier 5 mediums, including some pretty good ones like the M7, M4, and T-34 (along with some pretty lame ones). Here's what its armor layout looked like historically; (originally posted by sp15 on WoT EU) It's not that special, you're not going to be bouncing much besides tier 3s and autobounce stuff. At least its a fairly narrow target. The historical gun was the 75mm m/41 L34. In real life it was about equal to the 75mm M3 on the Sherman, but it was somewhat handicapped by bad ammo. Given that the m/42 doesn't have amazing armor or mobility (380 hp / 22 tons = 16.9 hp per ton, which actually isn't terrible), there's probably going to be some options for gun upgrades. Historically, a high velocity 57mm and a short 105 were considered, and I think I remember reading about some upgrades to the 75 (aside from the one that eventually ended up being the Strv 74). Gun depression will be amazing though, like everything else in the Swedish tree. Without knowing too much about it, the m/42 looks to me like it will be pretty decent but not a standout like the M7. Historical Info; http://tanks.mod16.org/tag/strv-m42/- Swedish Tank Archives pages on Strv m/42 (renhanxue's page) http://ftr.wot-news....t-vii-strv-m42/- Article on Strv m/42 in World of Tanks video game, written by sp15, has useful info http://www2.landskro...agnar/lago.html http://sturgeonshouse.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/11-stug-iii-thread-and-also-other-german-vehicles-i-guess/page-6#entry15542; Early m/42s had German transmissions. They were really bad. Bonus pics: (pics by renhanxue)
  9. Hey all, I don't believe there's a topic on this tank yet (or maybe I didn't load enough other pages) so here is the copy of my thread on the NA forums. Matilda IV. The slow, bad armored, but russian’s only premium medium tank (for now). A tank that is absolute trash when you look at it’s stats on paper, but is it? Somehow, I’ve started to like this thing, despite the ‘bad’ mobility, it actually is a very flexible tank once you get it to it’s natural habitat. The fact that my first crucial contribution was obtained may have something to do with my love for her, but let’s look into the stats. We’re going to start with the pros. Yes, there are actually good things about this tonk. Preferential matchmaking. A must, because your armor will have a hard time even against a lot of tier 6 vehicles. But also nice to know you’ll have soft targets to shoot at. Great gun handling. Amazing gun depression (-14°) and elevation (+25°). Hills are easymode, as I can’t think of anything with similar values other than the D.max. Excellent aimtime (1.71) and bad accuracy (.41). Means you can get your barrel hot very soon and keep it hot. The aimtime also gives breathing room in your equipment/skills setup. Good alpha damage (110). Scares the enemies off, and combined with the good rate of fire (16) results in ~1.750 DPM. Huge HP pool: 610. It is much more than the other mediums and competitive with the values you find on heavy tanks. This makes it possible to engage heavy tanks and come out of the fight alive. Very well armored, on all sides of the tank. On the hull, we find 75 mms of steel in front, 70 in the sides and 55 on the rear. This means you can sidescrape effectively as long as the enemy isn’t shooting weakspots. Keep wiggling to avoid this! The turret has been provided with 75 mm on every side! This means, combined with the excellent gun handling that you can hull down very easily, and effectively. Crew trainer (4crew). Nothing much to say, if you’re advancing the old medium line (34-85 to the tier Xs), you will be able to fit all your crew in the matilda IV. If you’ve got the A-43 or A-44 however, you won’t be able to train that radio operator. Not everything is perfect about this vehicle, these are the most important cons: The HP/ton ratio (9.99) and top speed (25) aren’t competitive with other mediums. You have to play this like a heavy tank with a meh gun. You won’t carry games unless you can interpret the team set ups and map very well. Considering you’re playing T3-T6, things still will go crazy. That one bounced… Though the gun is easy to handle, penetrating your targets requires some knowledge of your enemy vehicles. The standard (AP) penetration is only 86mm on average and the premium ammunition (APCR) only raises this value to 102, which is just enough to handle the tier 5heavy tanks. The low shell velocity makes it also harder to snipe at moving vehicles. The AP rounds don’t even hit 700m/s, compared to the 800ish on other mediums. Meh, random thoughts/how to cure the cons: Agility. While it isn’t fast enough to keep up with the other mediums, the matilda still has enough mobility to handle heavies and TD’s easy in close encounters. Simply blow the tracks off and start flanking. This is advised when engaging KV1’s and the like. If they don’t have support, naturally… AP penetration value. I’m not saying it’s bad, but as soon as you’re encountering some heavy steel (KV1 and the like) you’ll have to load some APCR if you want to pen reliably. If you keep shooting AP at it frontally, I hope you’ve sacrificed a goat. View range. While 350m isn’t anything special (for example, M4 and crusader have 20 and 10m more, it’s good enough considering this plays like a heavy tank. Radio is ok, 570m. We can conclude that this is an excellent vehicle. Both for beginners, who will enjoy the good soft stats (especially gun handling) and ‘experts’ who will be able to keep her alive, even when fighting off multiple enemies thanks to the combination of armor, HP, and DPM. Generally, you have to get to terrain with a lot of slopes, where you can outplay your enemies with your turret armor and gun depression. Always keep an eye on the map and go defend your base as soon as you notice a flank is/starts collapsing. Set up: Equipment Gun rammer: no-brainer. Ventilations: maximise your DPM while decreasing repair time, aimtime etc Optics/toolbox/binoculars: if you still have a bad crew the toolbox can be a good idea but once you have the repair skills, there are other useful things to choose, such as optics. Ammo and consumables As mentioned earlier, you’ll want a bunch of premium rounds for those heavily armored targets you encounter. I suggest taking 10+ apcr shells. As consumables, you’ll certainly want a repair kit. The aid kit could be swapped for food/extinguisher/large repair kit, depending on your 3rd choice. I’ve chosen for the removed speed governors to increase mobility. I can’t remember ever being torched with the matilda. Crew If you don’t have another soviet medium tank and you don’t plan on getting one, this is what I would advise. Standard set up for heavies; repairs and 6th to start with. Secondly I’d train BIA, the matilda doesn’t really need snap shot etc thanks to the great stats so increase that DPM and view range. Other valuable skills are mostly for the driver (clutch braking). TL;DR She’s a fat woman labelled with a medium tag, but worth the gold (especially if you can buy @ 50%). The gun handling, HP pool and armor make it suitable for ‘noobs’ but the bad standard pen and mobility will be obstacles. In the hands of players with good map insight, I would dare to say this is even able to carry. As always, if you notice I forgot to mention something, please comment on it so I can add it. I might be adding video’s to this topic later, depends how much the batchat distracts me Good luck on the battlefield! Spoiler
  10. Apparently there's not a single topic about my favourite tier 6 tank, the Cromwell, so I figure I could start one. My loadout so far is: GLD, Rammer, Optics / Small medpack/repair + silver gasoline Crew skills: Cmdr: 6th + camo Gunner: Deadeye + camo Driver: Offroad + camo Radio: SA + camo Loader: SS + camo So far it's been working very well for me, and I'll be getting repair as my 3rd skill. The way I see it, if I actually get shot at half the tank goes to hell anyway, so even if I get repair faster it won't help me that much. I play it very much like I played my Chaffee - I scout early, then retreat and look for stragglers to engage them 1v1 and obliterate by circling to death. Camo is there mostly to allow me to get out of danger and hide behind bushes to get a proper look at the battlefield. Optics because, as I've said, when I'm not doing solo hunting I scout, usually on the move. I really hope they won't nerf the tank, as I see it as borderline OP, especially considering the excellent premium round. My DPB is pretty average, but having played it mostly solo I manage an excellent win ratio of over 65%, and I'm perfectly fine with it - and considering I'm not exactly unicum material, I see it as a proof of the tanks OPness. Your thoughts? Anything You'd change about my setup? EDIT: Added tags to the thread
  11. As put to WoT this morning, and now here: As the title indicates. Will soon have enough to elite out a T29 heavy, or a M46 Fatton. Stats show that I tend to do better in heavies, but I do so love the medium meta. Really digging the AMX 30 p and the Pershing, and love gun depression. However, I also cotton to hull down fighting, side scraping and punching holes in overly aggressive heavy players. I hear the M48 is meh, just like the tier 10 AMX 30, and of course if I go the T29 route, I will end up with a E5. A little torn, could go either way. Looking for some experienced folks in either line to lend some advice. Thanks!
  12. I become more and more clueless when in Erlenberg defence in something like Super Pershing, Panther II or a TD. In fast mediums or lights I usually go to the nearest hill on the side I was spawned and try to spot enemy heavies before they're in position to get some early damage and stop the scouts until my team arrives. In slower stuff it's not really possible and the game goes as follows: West side gets massively rolfstomped by attackers rush. East side is usually won by defenders Some defenders camp around the cap circle or in A0, some try to push the south bridge to kill arty but it's tough Attackers camp the the castle and west hills raining fire on evertyhing that gets exposed around the river. Attackers push the north bridge once the defenders spread or get killed by being stupid. So I don't really know what's the best position to defend the west: if I get close to the big hill in C2 to peek around the corner, I'm usually overwhelmed by 2-3 tanks + some sniper in the back. Sniping from the middle city sometimes works - from E6 i can shoot the attackers in the northwest, but doesn't work if there is at least someone who flanks you from H6 - and once you get spotted and flanked, you can't retreat through the open. I can help push east side but then it becomes a waiting game, who will rush to the bridges and get killed first. Attackers have very good defending positions in the castle. I don't think you can decap from the hill in D9 due to shitty building setup.
  13. Hello! I am a new player that has been reading your tips. It is going really well for me. I have ~55 % win rate so it has really helped me! I want to know what equipment I should use on the Panzer III which is a mobile medium tank at tier 4. You can skip the text below if you don't want to read it. I can now afford to buy my first tier 4 tank. I am going to get the Panzer III which looks like a very good medium with nice armor, good mobility and good 5cm gun. I like to play in a platoon with 2 comrades of mine and we all play the German nation with the same tech-tree. We are aiming to all get the Panzer III to be able to play as an effective medium platoon. I have been playing more than my friends so I am a little bit ahead and ready to buy the tank with 75 % crew right now. I will probably spend a lot of time in this tank and I want to upgrade as much as I can (no matter the cost) but I am not sure what equipment I should get. Some people recommend using: - Vents - Gun Laying Drive (GLD) - Gun Rammer But would it not be better to use Coated Optics instead of GLD because view-range is so crucial? People recommend to play this tank as a mobile flanker. The GLD only affects tanks that are stationary... People recommend GLD because the tank shoot fast (24 rounds/min) but has slow (2.3 seconds) aiming time. I have a hard time choosing. I want this tank to be as good as it possibly can be and I think that you can probably give me better advice than other internet people. So please tell me what you would use on a tank like the Panzer III with good mobility and high rate of fire! Thank you very much for all guides and help! And thank you for your reply!
  14. This is a guide to the tier Iv Russian T-28 medium tank. I am writing a new guide because the old one is over 2 years old, and lacks certain important points, like soft stats, crew and equipment setup, and crew skills recommendations. For many players new to Wot, T-28 is one of tanks that just stand in the way to KV-1. Without proper knowledge of maps, decent crew and the understanding of the vision mechanics, this tank is just an exp piñata for everyone around. The huge size and lack of any kind of armor will get you killed in a matter of seconds whenever spotted (and spotty base camo will get you spotted unless deployed properly). It suffers the same problem as the waffles and French higher tier heavies, but without the corresponding fear factor. While some smaller tanks, like M8A1 stand a much better chance of dodging the shots from the red players that populate low tiers... this tank does not. Expect that 400 WN8 Hetzer with 1 k battles to hit you without even fully aimed. Derps and arty will one-shot you from full health practically every time, and even splashes could hurt a lot. The result is the widespread hatred directed to this tank, severe underestimation at best. Players usually have less than fond memories left after playing this tank, but I hope that writing this guide will help the new players to grind more quickly, and maybe spark some interest in the older, more experienced ones. So, does this tank have any merits? We shall see. CREW AND EQUIPMENT For a huge medium tank that relies on not being spotted to survive, vision control must be maintained at all times. Thus my recommendation is: Binocular telescope Gun laying drive Optics Why both binocular telescope and optics? Well, while the vision meta is dead and gone in higher tiers, in lower tiers it is still strong. The fact that the same maps are used by modern main battle tanks with 400 m base view range (and with proper crew setup and equipment 470 and upward) and prewar tanks like KV-1 with 310 m base view range and usually 75% crew without equipment (remember, the price of tipical tier 5 tank is 350-400 000, while a single piece of non-discounted equipment like Enhanced Gun Laying Drive costs 500 000) means that there is a good possibility for total vision domination. And by vision domination I do not mean the one seen at higher tiers – I spot you first, take a shot that removes your 320- 400 hitpoints (which is 15-20% health pool at best), and then you have 5-8 seconds to duck in the cover. Even the fat tank like E 100 will spot the nimble stealthy tier X medium shooting at him from 400 m (and that is the kind of distance almost impossible to find today, except in a few maps like Campinovka) and just shrug of the loss of 12% HP, while potentially retaliating with double of even triple alpha. TOTAL vision domination could be achieved by spotting the slow and blind heavies at 400 m, and having the 30 second window of opportunity to kill tanks that could obliterate your team if they deploy to the brawling corner successfully (you need only 15-20 seconds to kill toptier heavies with small hit points pools at lower tiers and good effective dpm). And that could be done with almost 100 m of safe distance between the time you spot them, and the first possible place you could be spotted by them. Higher tiers could only dream of that, and in middle tiers some heavies have even higher view range than mediums (sometimes I could vision kite the approaching mediums like T-43 or Cromwell with my fully pimped Tiger – BIA+optics+situational awareness+recon, and the first shot is always mine. T29 also surprises many a medium driver with good view range – these are the heavy tanks where optics is a must) Your highest tier enemy with good view range you will ever see are the VK 36.01 H, with 360 m, and M4 Sherman with 370 m (tier VI mediums do not have any more than these, and tds are almost blind). Others have around 340-350 view range at maximum, and KVs and t-150 are blind as bats at 310 m and 330 m respectively. So, by looking at my setup, I have 392 m of view range at move, and 445 with binoculars. Why 392 is not enough? Well, it is under most conditions, but with 445 games could be decided at Lakeville if you spot the heavy train going to city, on Prokhorovka and many other maps it gives you a nice edge over light tanks that are pretty common at low tiers (like Luchs, Stuart or Covenater), meaning you can kill them off unspotted, not merely get the first shot off. Second question many will ask is why not a Rammer? Well, rammer is a must at pretty much every tank that can mount it, but T-28 is one of 3 tanks in Wot where it is the 4th best choice, but only 3 slots (Spahpanzer SP I C and T-34 being the others). Gun laying drive is a must because the ROF is higher than the gun control available. Even without a rammer the reticle shrinks slower than reload while standing. Matilda could play without fully aimed shots since you could brawl with her, but in paper mediums distance is the key. You will get more damage aiming fully (especially after the dispersion nerf a few patches ago), than shooting the fastest you can and missing half of your shots. Questions about why camo nets, vents and such stuff is useless are covered on detail at this forum, so I will not repeat it here. Scene that I recommend to watch to every T-28, T-34 and Cromwell drivers out there… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmhGYB4NdYc I own the above mentioned tanks, and have killed easily so many players in those 3 tanks that went full speed at me shooting. They would fire 5 shots, missing at least half, or sometimes even all of them, while I hit them every time. Shooting on the move in T-34, Cromwell and other tanks with crap dispersion on the move is being done only in circling heavies to death, or in drive by shooting at distracted target. The speed is the asset best used for early deployment, flanking, relocating and capping/uncapping. Leave the shooting on the move over any kind of distance to tier X mediums. If you shoot the other medium, move only if you are at point blank range – it is better to take some shots, than to miss with all of yours. If you ever get caught in a brawl, 10% DPM just will not save your ass…weak ammo rack is a part of problem, but about that later. Crew skills should mitigate not so as good camouflage values as desired, and make it more serviceable: Commander: BiA – 6th Sense – CamoGunner: BiA – Camo – Snap Shot Driver: BiA – Camo – Smooth RideRadio operator No. 1: BiA – Camo – Situational AwarenessRadio operator No. 1: BiA – Camo – Signal BoostingLoader: BiA – Safe Stowage – Camo 6th Sense is a must, Signal boosting is nice, because as a sniper good radio is important, and the base radio range is just just 360. With BIA and 65% Signal boosting in my setup it is up to 433 m. Situational Awareness is part of vision domination setup. Safe Stowage if there because although you do not have many hit points, ammo rack is very weak at just 110 hitpoints. For example, running at the KV-1 to circle jerk him will often need to take one shot, and the 85 mm F-30 deals 115 dmg to modules… go figure. BIA is there for a nice all around improvement, mostly to vision and radio range. If you do not have so good crew to drop in tier 4 tank, 6th Sense with some camo will suffice. In fact, I have trained many a crew member in T-28 for higher tiers…And if you have money to burn you could always yank the radio operators out once they are at 2.5 skills, use 500 gold and convert into commanders or loaders them for a shiny new T-54 or even tier X. CONSUMABLE LOADOUT: I use Small Repair Kit, Small First Aid Kit, and AFE. Afe is not necessary, but you sometimes get lit when hit by several pew pew shells or autocannons, and there is not enough hit points to use the manual one. At best you will have 100 hitpoints left even with the AFE, but several times I managed to pull a win even on low health by digging in the bushes. The engine is gasoline, so it burns well, but it is in the back. Crew deaths are not often, except the useless radio operators, but in the case your commander is shot you do need the med kit. FIREPOWER The T-28 has only one viably gun choice, the venerable Zis-4. When fully aimed it has the laser accuracy, same as in-game Tiger! Alpha of 85 does not seems much, but it is almost a quarter of the same-tier medium hit points pool, meaning you can shred same-tier opponents in under 10 seconds, while the legendary Russian dpm monsters of tier X need 30-40 seconds of continuous firing to kill same tier medium, providing every shot is a penetration, which is hard at higher tiers, but almost guaranteed at the lower ones. Damage / min is 1888.7 HP/min which is not so impressive on paper, but while some turds like M3 Lee may have 2200 HP/min (AP 92 mm 619 m/s, APCR 127 mm 820 m/s 110 alpha), so your damage is dealt reliably with a high accuracy and high penetration gun, and not some unreliable derp that works only on tier 4 tanks if it hit them at all due to shells flying like you throw stones and 0.41 acc. The AP has 112 mm of penn and the APCR has monstrous 189 mm penn, which burns O-I, the bane of tier 6 armor like hot knife goes thru butter, and completely destroys diamond angled T-150, another armored beast of tier 6. Tanks like VK 36.01 are soft enough with AP frontally if untangled, but you do need APCR for angled ones at range. Shell speed is great for sniping, with AP 990m/s and APCR 1238 m/s. Do not use HE shells in 57 mm guns. Never! HE alpha is 95, a meagre 10 more than AP, and the risk for 0 damage critical hit is high with only 29 mm of HE penn. I carry 50 AP It is quite a lot of shells, and they are diet cheap meaning you can expend around 20 if you need to destroy almost all the houses at Prokhorovka city or similar locations, while still be able to kill half of their team reliably without toughing gold ammo. I also carry 28 APCR. In tier IV games I do not use it at all, and even in tier VI it could be used at minimum. But is the enemy team has a lot of hard targets, or you are facing multiple opponents and need a quick kill, good amount could come handy. Dispersion values after shot are horrible, 4, Turret rotation dispersion is 0.16 and track 0.23. Those values are the primary reason for omitting the rammer, and stresses the absolute need for Gun laying drive. PROTECTION Armor values are 30/20/20 for hull and 25/25/25 for turret. It is soft (and large) enough to make a perfect target for 105 mm derps, but also guaranteeing full HE penetration for 85 mm guns. Armor could be used if you stumble upon Pz.Kpfw. I Ausf. C, which will not penetrate you with AP if you angle a bit. If he has gold clip loaded, you are screwed. Depression is -6 and +25. Not as good as a comfy -8 of its spiritual successor, the T-34, limiting the use at some spots. Staying hidden is your best protection. Stock values: Camo level stationary 11.63 Camo level on the move 8.72 Camo level after shot 3.02 With my setup (full camo crew, camo paint, BIA): Camo level stationary 24.61 Camo level on the move 19.20 Camo level after shot 6.39 Camouflage values are not so good, you need a good crew to make the most of it, if not, use bushes all the time. M8A1 for example has: camo level stationary 21.49 camo level on the move12.89 camo level after shot 5.59 and fully pimped out: camo level stationary 43.79 camo level on the move 27.87 camo level after shot 11.39 Pz.Kpfw. III is also better, but those tanks are blind, so vision kiting is best done by staying out of their max view range. I won 60 out of 80 games I played in since 9.9 patch. My overall win rate with this tank is 61.5 % after 333 games, but that includes first hundred with 100 DMG games while I was a complete noob with 500 games total. After repurchase I am pumping constant 70-80 % WR and purple stats (expected values are really low) with mastery badges every 2nd game or so. xTE is 92, WN 8 around 4000. MOBILITY The powerplant of this tank is the 46.9 l Mikulin M-17 V12 detuned aircraft engine developing 500 hp (373 kW). Weighting 17 tonnes if deliveres almost 30 HP/ton, meaning that in-game it is being second to only AMX CDC (35.29 hp/t, but it has 20% worse ground resistance). Bat Chat has the same HP/ton, but with about 30% better ground resistance. Hard terrain resistance 1.20 Medium terrain resistance 1.50 Soft terrain resistance 2.30 The T-28 is the most mobile tank in tier in traverse (40) and acceleration. The terrain resistance values aren’t spectacular, but overall the tank performs great over a variety of surfaces and will always be able to act where its’ needed. This overall mobility is not spectacular however. The outdated plunger‑spring type suspension with twin bogies limit the top speed to 45 km/h. With the same engine power the T-34, despite weighting more than 10 tonnes more, thanks to the Christie suspension it goes up to 56 km/h. T-34 is noticeably more sluggish, but will get up to top speed at hard ground. In the T-28 you will outrun lights uphill even on the grass, and keep the top speed under almost all conditions except swampy ground, where it drops to about 25. Consider your advantages and disadvantages carefully, like do not go hill on Mines since you will be late there, but on Prokhorovka you will be first and such stuff. GAMEPLAY Early game Get out in front of everyone to do some scouting. The adequate camo and mobility should hide your tank until it gets to a pretty nice forward position to shoot at the enemy that hasn’t yet reached theirs. Spotting the half or sometimes even entire enemy team happens often with 445 m view range when binos kick in. At Ruinberg at E 7 bush you could spot all the tanks moving to city, and mid game from same spot you can spot and shoot the tanks that advance in city along the main road. Please refer to the Micropositioning tread; http://forum.wotlabs.net/index.php?/topic/18266-micropositioning-show-your-awesome-spots-now-compiled/#comment-449766 and other Map Guides available on this forum. Spotting an enemy heavy and putting 3-4 shots in him 30 seconds after start of the game starts panic and disorganisation in the enemy team, and if you light him up the game is won in the first minute. Middle game Decide what path the game will take, and what role you’ll need to play. Sometimes it’s scout work, especially if the game contains a lot of artillery and/or tank destroyers. Sometimes maps like Murovanka / Malinovka dictate that you perform more of a scouting or TD role, as most scouts tend to die pretty early, and TDs are noobs. The 392 view range will not have problems spotting even some of the higher camo tank destroyers in the tier, since they are almost blind, especially if you stop a few times to turn on the binoculars. Flanking is the not always the preferred angle of approach since you have TD-levels of penetration, DPM and accuracy. I do it mainly in higher tiers, and when I am too cheap to spend more gold on KVs. If you’re unsure about a flank or if there’s anyone in front of you, do not expose for more than a second, and see if the 6th sense triggers. Use that mobility to travel to several avenues on the map: at some point there’ll be an opportunity. Pushing against higher tier tanks is suicide, best let them come to you, and pew-pew them from range. End game Usually, there are some crippled heavies left, alone with the base campers, td-s and arty. All easy pickings. However, be careful when going to kill the arty. If they can guess your angle of approach, try to always spot them first even if you need to stop and turn the binos on. Even splash could kill you, especially if ae not at full health any more. I lost a few games because of that. OVERALL The T-28 is not the best platform, but it has the Zis-4 57 mm gun at tier IV that if still very effective at tier 5 tanks, and could prove very efficient even at tier 6 mediums and lights if you shoot 50% gold. At tier IV it is absolute murder machine. The ability to kill top-tier heavies contribute a lot to the winrate of this tank. If you have the opportunity to choose targets, do not shoot weaklings, go for hardest target, or the one with highest firepower. Killing a KV 220 should be done ASAP, and not after it kills half of your team. Only the huge size and unfortunate matchmaking of tier IV (you see only a bit of tier III tanks, but you go up to tier VI - higher tiers all have +2/-2 mm except limited MM premiums) keep it from being OP. It also pads very well since you shoot a lot higher tiers (and can reliably damage them). I will upload some replays if anyone is interested in them. Tier IV carries hard Tier VI battle and siemka team : (can not upload pictures yet, server is limiting my upload) References: I used T-54 – Soviet Superiority By RBS as a format for review, along with some lines that I felt could be applied to T-28 as well. TheMarine0341, Precambrian, Garbad and Oneechan provided a lot of inspiration in their numerous articles. P.S. I am having a slight formatting issues, and can not upload any more pictures (size are sensible, 200 KB per picture). This is my first guide, and I hope Mods will have patience and help me with that. If it gets attention, maybe it could be promoted to article...I also have T-34 guide in the pipeline (russian tier V medium), since it is also not covered extensively.
  15. The main question I propose on my own accord is this: How do I enjoy high tier mediums tanks as a voracious heavy tank player? Enjoyment for me entails effectiveness most importantly. Effectiveness embodies a broad scope that I will let you interpret. There can be no wrong answer as I'm expecting insights that in some level, apply to universal play. I have a 60% in my T-44 and a godawful 53% in my Patton. I think the T-44 W/R is pretty okay but dwarfs in comparison to my HT classes which garner: ST-1: 64% T-10: 61% T32: 63% IS-3: 60% Tiger I: 64% Tiger (P): 54% [I postulate that I can get her to ~62% easily] [fuck'ed up stats @ noob days] KV-3: 56% [fuck'ed up stats @ noob days] KV-2: 52% [refer above] KV-1: 44% [refer above] Matilda IV: 65% There's a lot of 60% granted however I was lead to believe the concept that medium tanks yield the highest skill ceiling which in turn made them better @ winning? Yet in this corridor meta favoring heavies, does this concept hold true? Very Important Question: Which class is better for winning, mediums or heavies? I want to note that I have only tried the M46 flavor of medium tanks. I have yet to research any other high tier MT line. Is the T-54 something fresh and powerful compared to the M46? Same applies to Leo PTA. Tell me how 2 be gud. I'm so desperate for the secret. Just ri note: I used to enjoy MT play via M7MT but low tiers have dropped out of favor as I improved as a player. It was just so easy and it made me prone to auto pilot without a conscious care of my actions. LT's became my go to MT's but those fell out of favor too eventually. Thank you for your responses, ahead of time ^_^
  16. About half an hour has gone by, I'm surprised nobody has posted this yet. Most of this is C&P'ed from TAP http://thearmoredpatrol.com/2015/10/29/supertest-m46-patton-kr-tier-8-premium/ M46 Patton KR (Tier 8 Premium) Stats: HP: 1450 Engine: 810 hp Mass: 44 t Power to weight: 18,41 KM / t Max speed: 48,2 / 20 km / h Hull turning speed: 38 °/s Turret turning speed: 39,6 °/s Terrain resistance values: 1,247/1,438/2,397 View range: 390 m Radio range: 776,9 m Hull armor:101,6 /76,2 /? mm Turret armor:101,6 /76,2/ 20 mm Alpha damage: 240 Penetration: 192 mm Rate Of Fire: 8,233 Damage Per Minute: 1975,9 Reload time: 7,3 s Accuracy: 0,364 Aiming time: 2,4 s Elevation/Depression: +20/-10 My general observations; the aim time is unusually poor, BUT it looks like it has the same gun dispersion while moving as the best of the RU hovercraft meds, so that should be total non-issue.... unless I'm just reading it wrong. Mobility looks poor, but so is it too on the M26 and the Super Pershing. If anything, it looks like a Pershing that got a DPM and Pen buff. At worst, it just lacks the M26's hyper-powered APCR shells.
  17. zaha

    T-34-2 Help

    Greetings. I just bought T-34-2. The question is which gun is the best for it. Is it the 122mm or 100mm? Equipment? And is this tank worth it?
  18. I have a surplus british medium crew with BIA and have to decide which tank to grind for them. I love the Cromwell, but since I already own the Cromwell Berlin, there is not much point in having the same tank twice, which leads me to my question: Which tank should I put them on?
  19. Hello, fellow tankers! I'm currently grinding my way to the T62a from the T54. I am about 120k xp away from it. Still have a long way to go but I know I will have fun along the way. I really like the T54 but I was wondering if I should move the crew to the T62a when I get it. I am close to the 2nd skills for all the crew members for my T54. But there is another option. Should I just add a female crew to the new T62a? I still plan to play my T54 because I enjoy playing it along with my M46, especially in platoons. What would you guys recommend I do? Thanks!
  20. http://worldoftanks.eu/en/news/pc-browser/46/common-test-penetration-changes/ RIP as all the good players leave this game What do you guys think about this?
  21. My all time favorite and first tier X (still "fixing stats" years later) is subject to some changes. Since the general thread is full of nonsense I decided to make this topic where we can discuss these changes specifically in the case of the batchat. I'm going to try and track solo games so that I actually try. Obviously, there won't be data enough to compare seriously so what you'll get after my first batch of 9.9 games is just subjective "facts". Changes (planned for now) I'm not really all up to date with things like dispersion and ground resistance (I mean honestly, it's just a game). What I do know is that the dispersion will be way better for just a little pen nerf. 241 is still enough to punch through a lot of most tX heavies. Which isn't what you should be doing anyway. Therefor, my opinion for now is that bat will be buffed. The one negative thing I expect is that you'll have to be more careful when taking out other meds. The russians for example have enough traverse to keep their front at you, and if they do so, the auto-aim that was 9/10 legit to use, might cause problems now. So that "little pen nerf" might not be as innocent as it looks after all. Naturally you can always aim or try to flank better, but all that is going to cost time, which may cost HP. I'll post most interesting replays since people barely seem to download all of them (from previous challenge experiences). Played a game earlier, it's not amazing but it might show you why the dispersion changes are going to be so gud (like you didn't know that already :doge:) http://www.mediafire.com/download/m8v1avewib4mpib/20150623_0652_Test_himmelsdorf_winter.wotreplay Better make a challenge out of it, because reading is boring right? WR 63%3.400dpgWhat do you think about the changes? Good or bad + why?
  22. OK starting off I'm looking to know how to improve in the game play department of my T-54 that I got just recently(Meaning i just hit 100 games and I just got the top gun 10-15 games ago) I'm not sure what I should do differently to get better results from this tank. I'd would say i'm still new to this game so I might be making potato mistakes that I don't realize i'm making. All the tanks of this line I would say I had no problems with and had great fun playing but it seems i'm just not doing something right in this one. I'm going to post 5 of my most recent replays in this tank so if you would can you please watch them and tell me what i'm doing wrong, what i'm doing right and should do more often, or what I should be doing differently, thank you (this means nothing i just happened to get lucky) 1- http://wotreplays.com/site/1972813#ruinberg-mrdonnie1-t-54 2- http://wotreplays.com/site/1972828#karelia-mrdonnie1-t-54 (I have no idea how to play this map in any tank tbh) 3- http://wotreplays.com/site/1972844#lakeville-mrdonnie1-t-54 (I have no idea how to play this map from this side so I followed the 2k wn8 dude) 4- http://wotreplays.com/site/1972869#arctic_region-mrdonnie1-t-54 erg 5- http://wotreplays.com/site/1972879#live_oaks-mrdonnie1-t-54
  23. Previous unicum rankings and "class threads" have shown that heavies, heaviums and mediums are superior for solo carrying. E.g. Shortly put: there are different, equally viable approaches to winning solopub. My question is: - Do you play various classes / tank types equally? - If not, how do you distinguish classes you are intrinsically good at? - Would you advise players to focus on one to two playstyles or alternatively as many different playstyles as possible? Personally: I underperform in tier 9+ mediums whilst overperforming in heavies considering my current skill-level. (e.g. 50% in O140 & Batchat, 56% in E100 firing mainly AP.) Reasons might include a lack of patience, a lack of skill, heavies carrying easier solopub or a combination.
  24. I will preface this with the fact that I know full well that I'm not that good of a tanker, 1776 overall, so take this review/guide with a grain of salt. To all the Purple Poasters please feel free to tear me apart, I'm sure I fucked something up or am suggesting something wrong Constructive criticism is also welcome Good afternoon ladies and mentlegen! (or morning, or evening, or greetings from the future/past what have you) After a few PMs and poking from friends, I've decided to throw together a guide on one of my favorite tanks in the game: The tier 6 British medium, the Cromwell. There's two tanks in this game that I feel I've mastered, the tier 5 T14 and the tier 6 Cromwell. I've done a review for the T14 heavy (here's the link to that review: http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/398524-how-to-t14-its-review-time-a-tick-old-but-she-hasnt-changed-since/ ) and now I'm doing one for the Cromwell. Being I have reliable and stable internet again, I'm going to start uploading more videos and how-to guides as well as some of my more epic games. Now, about the Cromwell, just what is it? Well, it's one of the best balanced mediums in the game in terms of the armor triangle. It balances an acceptable level of armor with a fast firing gun and a very mobile platform. Now, that's not to say the armor on this tank is any good, it's acceptable against low tiers and will bounce the occasional shell, but don't rely on it to block incoming shots, it probably won't. It's a very mobile platform which serves as your greatest offensive and defensive asset. The ability to disengage from a fight or force a fight on your terms seems makes this one of the most flexible mid tier mediums you can have. The Cromwell's Strengths: It's fast. It accelerates quickly, it turns quickly, it cruises along at 64km/h on most terrain and in the mid 50s on swampy terrain. The mobility of the Crommie helps it establish very solid map control. It's speed allows you to leave a winning a fight to help a another fight win, you can take part in every skirmish in a match, putting your gun to use all across the map That same speed can help you carry a fight, keeping distance between you and the enemy and outrunning the enemy as you fall back. High DPM gun, with roughly a 3 second reload, you can bang out the shots rapidly, raking up the damage quickly and efficiently, using the previous strengths to keep yourself out of reach of enemy guns Hull and turret traverse, combined with the speed, you can use these two in concert to go full tilt boogie and run circles around your opponents, staying ahead of their guns while you murderize their HP. Almost every tank you encounter you can knife fight to death with a circling, juking maneuver. Oddly enough, one of the slowest tanks, the TOG, will have no trouble keeping it's gun on you while you circle it as it's traverse is rather insane A comfortable stock grind, using the 2nd 6 pounder gun with Enhanced Christie suspension to focus the grind on the guns and engines doing tracks last Great wolf pack capability, a triple platoon of Cromwells is a force to be reckoned with, even in tier 8 games 13 degrees of gun depression with the second 6 pounder and -8 degrees with the top 75 HV cannon (these are the two guns you want to use, the first during the grind) Drawbacks of the Cromwell: Your armor. It's not really going to stop most equal tier tanks or tanks of higher tier, against tier 4s and 5s, you'll have acceptable protection. The first 75mm gun you gain access to is misleading with terrible pen, stick with the second 6 pounder and use gold shells as needed (trust me, it's expensive, but easier to grind it this way) Prone to module damage, the radio man and gunner tend to be dead. A lot. The ammo rack tends to be damaged often (but not destroyed, in my 3,300 battles I've been ammoracked twice that I can remember) HE is scary, avoid at all costs unless you want your crew turned into a meaty soup scattered about the inside of your tank Cannot mount ungraded turret on stock tacks without enhanced suspension Cromwell Equipment: Gun Laying Drive: Why? The Cromwell is terrible at one-the-move shooting, when you're in knife fight range (sub 100 meter engagements) you can shoot on the move with ease, otherwise you want to stop, aim, shoot then reposition and repeat. With a 2.3 second aim time, the GLD helps make that more bearable OPTIONAL During grind: Enhanced Christie Suspension Why? This allows you to skip the tracks research early on and focus on getting the best gun and the extra HP the top turret provides. Once you've mounted the top turret and gun, getting exp for the rest of the modules shouldn't take long Medium Caliber Gun Rammer: Why? It cuts down on the reload, allowing a quicker reload and more damage. Why not? OPTIONAL: Vents. Why? It's a bonus to the crew all around. If you're crew has BIA, this can be dropped for Optics or used until your crew gets BIA OPTIONAL: Coated Optics: Why? You don't want to sit still long enough for binocs to kick in, you only want to sit still long enough to pop off a shot or two and then reposition for a better shot 2, 4, and 5 are all optional and vary based on player need and crew skills. The Optics versus Binocs debate is really up to player preference, I don't recommend binocs as you really shouldn't be sitting still in a Crommie for extended periods of time Suggestions on how to play Rule #1: Stay alive. This means don't take excessive risks early on and lose your HP to bad positioning and bad trades. With optics and a 100% crew, you should have north of 400 meters of view range, meaning you should see what's coming before it sees you. Spot things if you can and take up a spot where you can deal a shot or three of damage and pull back before incoming fire. After the initial contact and first few damaging shots, you can spend the mid game helping or flexing where needed, or hanging back (in tier 8 games, usually) and taking shots of opportunity until you have a clear avenue to flank, attack, or fall back. This takes map awareness to be good at. Late game, use your speed and maneuvering capability to hunt down the last few guys if you're winning. If you're in a losing game and have to carry to win, use vision and terrain to fall back and keep the enemy walking into your guns. Use your speed and mobility to outrun the enemy advance and set up ambush positions. A more passive early game in higher tier games is encouraged, whereas in games where it's mostly tier 6 with a tier 7 or two on each side you can be fairly aggressive, establishing a dominant position early. Against tier 8s, this is not encouraged, instead waiting for moments to sneak in shots and jumping on isolated targets. Late game aggression is encouraged in games where you have the advantage. Late game passive defensive play is encouraged where you're not in an advantageous position, relying instead on your view range and ability to rapidly reposition to work down your opponents in a fighting retreat. CREW SKILLS Commander: 6th-BIA-whatever you want Gunner: Snap shot- BIA-whatever you want Driver: Smooth Ride- BIA- Whatever you want Radio man: Situational awareness- BIA- Whatever you want Loader: Safe Stowage (or any of his three specialty skills)- BIA- Whatever you want As a 3rd skill, you can go for camo for sneakiness or go my route and focus on tank comfort and focus on the tanks ability to be more accurate, turn quicker, rotate quicker, and so forth at the expense of camo bonuses. Ammo loadout and consumables loadout: AP shells: 40- most of what you'll see you'll have no problem penetrating with your standard AP shells APCR: 20- KV 4/5, IS-6, and a few other really thick tanks will need this ammo unless you want to sit still up close and aim for a weak sp- *shot and dead*, nevermind, load gold and click HE: 4 - Crit the tracks and get that reset or shoot a Nashorn in the butt for lulz Small Repair, Small medkit, and Auto fire kit (it's worth the credits, seriously) Review video (Best in 1080 C: ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsyuHWb4wqk GAMEPLAY: With commentary on how and why I make the choices I do Match 1: (Defeat) To be added Match 2: (victory and clean up damage) To be added Match 3: (victory and mega carry) To be added Match 4: (victory) To be added BONUS Pool's match: ***NOTE*** I am waiting on my videos to convert one-by-one and be uploaded to youtube and I'll add the 4 battles I played after the review video as they're ready If there's any questions, opinions, or suggestions on how I can make tank reviews and how-tos any easier, let me know! Thanks, _Tsavo_
  25. All this is collected from vBAddict (filtered for t10 machines only) which by no means is 100% correct but i think it gives an indication of tank class comparison quite nicely Heavy - 1,959.1 Avg. Dmg. Medium - 2,027.8 Avg. Dmg. SPG - 1,677.9 Avg. Dmg. TD - 1,965.1 Avg. Dmg. **halfway throug this I started thinking about XP distribution for roles. ** As you can see the classes are pretty much the same across the board except for ary which averages significantly less but who am I to judge a person for taking up a t10 slot with a useless RNG slot machine. Anyways the point of this was to look at the shiny numbers and talk about general class balance based solely on damage output. Should the classes be averaging about the same damage per game or should it be significantly different? 1. I think that TD's should be doing the most, at least 15% more than the second place contender simply because that is their primary purpose (dishing damage = more xp). 2. Heavies should be at the forefront of the battle in most cases and should be able to tank for their team and deal a lot of damage simply because of their proximity to enemy machines (tanking = more xp than damage) 3. Mediums have their place in dishing damage but I am one of the few that think they are a bit more like MBTs than "mediums" simply because of their ability to flex around the map and deal damage comparable to heavies with the bonuses of having better cammo, better penetration values, better maneuverability, better speed, and in some instances higher dpm which makes them more useful than a lot of heavies 4. No arty opinion because of all the feels. ** Seeing all of this is it fair to welcome a Class rebalance or just leave it as it is because these numbers just show the current meta and that changes with time? ** I welcome criticism of my opinions and I feel that most comments will help me formulate a better understanding of tank classes on a whole. Thank you.
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