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Found 11 results

  1. Port over of a friend's post from the Asia forums. 14.3 Remember this magic number during this thread. I have myself a Warspite, and tested the Yamato on multiple occasions every now and then. Now for those who played WoT would know what overmatch is. In WoT, if your shell calibre is more than 3x the thickness if your enemy armor, you will always pen. In World of Warships, if your shell calibre is more than 14.3x than the enemy's thickness, it will always pen. However you dont really notice this because of overmatching, usually a shell that size compared to an armor than thin would overmatch i.e. DDs and CLs. However, on battleships this is different. Yamato's main guns are 460mm, tier 9 and tier 10bbs have a bow armor of 32mm. This means than the Yamato will ALWAYS penetrate your bow armor, no matter the angle. And then proceeds to citadel you. Thats why the Yamato is so OP because angling against her makes no difference. In fact, its worse to angle against her because she can citadel you frontally. But hold up, why does the Warspite have to do with this? Warspite guns are 381mm. New Mexicos and Fuso's guns are 356mm. The armor of tier 6 battleships bow are 25mm thick. 25mm x 14.3 = 357.5. This means to overmatch the bow armor of a tier 6 BB, you need a calibre of 357.5mm or above. In which ONLY the Warspite has. This also explains why Tier 7 BBs and their 16" guns kill Tier 6 BBs very easily. tl;dr, Warspite overmatches the Bow of NM, Fuso is a 50% chance due to the 102mm sides, Dont angle your front towards the Warspite. This is what makes the Warspite the best tier 6 BB IMO.
  2. Hi I am Nisa/Nisae and I'm sorta gud @ a variety games, many interested individuals and cuties have been asking how,so to stroke my e-peen help you guys I will share my not so secret anymore secrets! This is a guide not specifically aimed at WoT but rather at vidya games in general. Teaching the multiple stages of learning I've found common across a variety of titles. It should be fairly easy to read and I'd recommend finishing it and then referring back whenever you lose your way. Pictures will be added here and there because everyone loves pictures and its easier to keep track of what you're doing / where you are. Games I believe (+ backed slightly by stats) I am gud @ in somewhat alphabetical order : World of Tanks (duh) Blacklight: Retribution Contagion Frozen Throne B.Net assorted games (can list examples if anyone is actually interested in what maps I played) Insurgency Killing Floor Left 4 Dead 2 (especially versus mode) Rising Storm Red Orchestra 2 Robocraft Rust Warthunder Wow Ships + other things not in my steam library that I may have left out. To get things started, you need a game to actually play. This is largely up to your choice whether it be multiplayer or singleplayer, competitive or non-competitive, first person shooter or real-time strategies. However this guide is mostly geared towards competitive multiplayer games (if the games in the list didn't give it away) but it should be applicable to games that fall outside the spectrum or *gasp* even Reeeal liife. First thing that needs to be done is to assess your desire. Do you really want to get good? like really really? There is no shame in remaining a casual in a game if that is what you prefer (unless you're terrible and actively pulling everyone down but thats a story for another day), you'll need to be proactive (and willing) to do your research, put in some levels of practice, actually having a mind of your own, be responsible for your own health and make adjustments to the way you think and behave. After answering yes, you can begin by actually playing the game a bit, get familiar with it and learn how it plays as well as the objectives. The goal is to set up a basic foundation of sorts to work on, you want to be improving a pace you are comfortable with rather than having it feel like a race. Okay so you've established the foundations and its time to put down the pillars (haha rust jokes I'm so funny), "how do dis?" you might ask, I wholeheartedly recommend starting by doing some research on your own (which you should be able to considering you're on wotlabs), go read some Wikies, look at Forumz, Check Developer blogs, read poasts by Nisa etc. However research does not mean you just blindly absorb whatever is written or spoken,you yourself must decide whether the advice is trustworthy or just personal opinions or hogwash. There are a few ways to do this, Check on the validity of the site/author, if its an official site (or wotlabs :P) and by someone who is decent and experienced its somewhat easier to believe than the 41% shitter who is telling you the Maus is a medium tank that was made in Taiwan.Check on the date of the post, some previously established facts may be rendered false over time as updates roll by/new discoveries are made. (The mudflaps on the Maus used to have 0 armor and took full damage,making it a weak spot.)Confirm your newly acquired knowledge by comparing it to other posts regarding the same topic, if 1 posts says alternating your AP and HE fire increases your damage output and there are 15 posts from reputable sources saying otherwise...it might not be 100% true.Test it out yourself! Can't decide whether the MG port on a SuPershing is a weakness? Go shoot at one in the MG port and find out! (having friends may be helpful here)After doing your research and applying where necessary, you should be able to see an increase in your performance/stats/level of play but why stop here? Lets go higher! Next up, Practice. After learning the proper way to drive out a corner *(rounding it properly and not going full broadside) in WoT, practice will make it muscle memory/second nature which will save on mental processing power for more important things like whats for dinner what to do next to achieve victory. Practice it until you're comfortable with it and move on to the next skills whilst not forgetting what you've just learnt, congratulations you've just leveled up! However, practice doesn't mean you just go in and mess around, sloppy practice leads to sloppy habits,what you want is dedicated or good practice where you're actually paying proper attention to what you're doing. Don't just repeat the same thing over and over again expecting to get better, just because you can hit the cupola on a stationary T32 at 50m doesn't make you a T32 killing machine. Its boring,a waste of time and make you lose confidence if a situation presents itself differently. You want to work smarter and not just harder, pin-point the problem, analyse it, think of potential solutions, try them out and pick the ones you like best. For example a Tiger II's frontal profile is your problem and you must fix it. Instead of trying to penetrate the UFP, try going for the LFP, try flanking it, try going for the cupola etc. Work out a solution you're comfortable with and learn it. (personally I shoot Tiger 2's in the LFP -> Cupola -> Turret face) After a good session of practicing, it is wise to take a break. Have a snack, take a nap, do something else a bit. Then when you're feeling refreshed, come back and tackle it again and see if the practice paid off. If possible, try to manage the time spent practicing, you'll manage more in 3 straight hours (with breaks) as opposed to 1 hour every few days, this is also important in maintaining your purple stats if you do reach that point. This cycle of research and practice and watching your performance rise may be rather engrossing but its very important not to neglect your health either. As you start building fatigue you will lose efficiency or worse, you might end up forgetting what you've learnt earlier. Obviously this is bad and you want to reduce it as much as possible but the question is how? Some things to keep note of : DietSleepTimeEnvironmentPhysical and mental health [1] Your nutrition is important because if you are hungry or malnourished, you're less capable. Too hungry or malnourished and you might end up dead. Don't die. [2] Sleep is important, it saves what you learn as well as prepares your body for the next day, don't neglect it. [3] Picking a good time really matters, you're not going to be effective after a long tiring day at work...or when your house is on fire. [4] IS THERE HEAVY DRILLING OR OTHER ASSORTED LOUD NOISES AROUND YOU? Enough air in your room? Sky raining fire?... Go ahead and fix it if its possible but when its not going to happen, try taking a break. [5] Its better to rest on days where you are stabbed/shot/dumped or depressed. Oh don't forget to get enough exercise. Next up on our list is the juicy psychology tip bits where your mindset matters and will greatly affect your rate of growth and limits. It matters not how LEET or Pr0 you are/think you are in another game, when you're playing something different you must first acknowledge you're the noob/pubbie now and work your way up from a humble beginning. This means you should be ready to absorb and learn new things which can also mean you may have to over-write previously established knowledge so its for the best to not be a stubborn knob at this point of time, people may also be mean to you during this point of time so its advised to grow a slightly thicker skin. You should try making friends who can help you get better or grow with you, not being a cunt helps you make friends, not being a stubborn shitter helps you make friends and not being an elitist try hard will also help. You also need a healthy dose of self-criticism and self-analysis. What this means is you don't blame your peers or your team for losses right away, think of how you could have contributed better, yes your team may have been absolutely horrendous but chances are you'll be fighting horrendous teams from time to time so the only average in all your matches is you, and you have to understand that the MM messes you up just as much as any other chap on the team and the only way to win more is to get better. This is also the time for you to be pro-active in your learning, go try out some theories you've cooked up,formulate strategies, develop a play-style that you enjoy, a healthy sense of curiosity will prove useful here. You should also develop an independent mind that can adapt to whatever situations that may appear, know what you must do to achieve victory whether it may be taking the hill on Mines or eliminating a dangerous opponent. What is important is that you break out of crowd mentality or you'll never achieve anything substantial and plateau. Don't just copy others but rather become so awesome at something that others start copying you. Whilst getting a mentor may be helpful in learning the good from the bad, try not to depend too much on it because if you're playing with friends/platooned most of the time you might get sloppy in the sense that you become dependent on their support. You should try going solo once in a while as it can unveil new insights on how the game works or what skills you'd need, a good hundred or so battles can really sharpen your senses and train your clutching carrying skills because you have to be more careful and can't just fall back and rely on your buddies to help you as well as being able to trust your feelings and develop a good gut sense without throwing logic out the window. If done properly this can push you from being a filthy blue or pink into the (glorious) reigns of deep purple. Alternatively, when you're super purple and awesome (like me) you can try picking up some students or mentees, it can help you brush up on your basics and remember things you may have forgotten and might even learn something new in the process. You have to be careful though, make sure you know what you're doing because teaching the wrong things can have adverse effects on your potential and growth as well as your student. Most importantly you must remember to have FUN. All this is pointless if you do not enjoy the journey or the end results, avoid running yourself into a pit where you're just raging every game or two. Remember to keep watch on your tilt levels, if you don't know what tilt is I've ported a guide on it in the past : http://forum.wotlabs.net/index.php?/topic/2882-being-on-tilt-in-world-of-tanks/ If you don't want to read the link (which you should), it basically refers to the reduction in your level of play and fun due to a variety of factors. To sum it up,I present a simple-ish timeline illustrating key elements of different periods : Newb : Good luck, have fun.Understanding concepts and mechanics of game.Get a good idea of what victory is like.Make friendsAverage pubbi : ResearchMake friendsTrying things outNot being a stubborn jerk / thin-skinned baddiePracticeMake changes to mindsetCompetent pubbi : More researchNot learning the wrong thingsCarve your own pathDon't be an assholeMore practice Filthy filthy blue pubbi : Don't get cocky.Don't be a shitter.Do your homework.Eat properly.Are you practicing?Watch out for traps along the road. (don't plateau)Don't come home too late okay? Purple but may be at limits pubbi : By now you should have your foundations, study advanced tactics/topics.Practice and don't forget what you've learnt.Be open to learn new things.Take care of your health.Don't forget to have fun. Super awesome Nisa level purple shit right here yo : Win games,carry teams of unwashed masses.Establish a cult of personality.Talk shit about blues with your fellow SuPurples.Stay healthy,don't die IRL.Don't degenerate and flop back into noob purple.Consider tournaments and other end-game content.Write guides to save the masses of filthy pubbies.Find something else to play maybe?Be awesome and treat newbies nicely okay? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------[ End of Guide ]------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Got inspired at 4am,figured "what the hell, maybe I write a guide" and went along with it. Actually had great difficulty starting it out but pretty happy with the end results. Feel free to leave comments on why you love/hate this piece of text and how it can be improved. *shameless advertising* Also experimenting with Patreon a bit : https://www.patreon.com/Nisa /shameless advertising off Credits : Mom - giving birth to me + raising Tjerry - proof reading Darkshaunz - Tilt guide The artist(s) of the pics - for making them
  3. Nisa

    Nisa pls

    Tho I don't really have much wot content anymore. (wanted to make a poll but I forgot how)
  4. http://wotreplays.com/site/1906273?secret=0be6227050dcf47eef1b914abedca1c5 TD defense against difficult odds,stronk backs hoist team on thy shoulders.
  5. Credit goes to Darkshaunz,I'm merely copying it over because I think its a good article and would benefit many here. Original thread : http://forum.worldoftanks.asia/index.php?/topic/17678-being-on-tilt-in-world-of-tanks/ Pic related,sort of : ___ This is a discussion about the concept of being "On Tilt" in World of Tanks. I think it's important to explore this concept because it can have adverse effects on the enjoyment of the gameplay. This is also more directed at players that are more proactive in their self-evaluation and assessments after each game - but it can apply to any player. I've not seen this term being used here, so maybe "Tilt" can be used as nomenclature to describe "abnormal game performance". What is Tilt? Tilt is originally a poker term used to describe a competent player beginning to perform well below his capability after a bad game or two. Tilt is caused by emotional frustration clouding the judgement of an otherwise calm and consistent player. The resulting emotional response results in increasingly aggressive play, frustration and pessimism - which ends in an irreparable losing streak. Why is Tilt relevant to World of Tanks? World of Tanks is inherently a competitive game, where you engage other individuals in pixel tank combat. AFKers and bots notwithstanding, this means that you are essentially pitting yourself against human beings that are governed by emotional reactions. As many of you know, the actions of a few can really swing the influence of a match - especially those players that place a high value on good winning performances. As such, the higher your own expectations of your own performance - the greater the effects of tilt that you will potentially experience. So here are my own observed qualities of tilt: Tilt is relative, depending on a tanker's individual self-expectation of what is considered to be "normal performance/expectations" (ie: WR/WN7 etc.) Tilt is governed by an emotional response to a situation, and is triggered by an event outside of normal expectations (usually a very bad round of tanks). Tilt is a downward spiral that continues to get progressively worse until corrective measure are undertaken (ie: Loss streaks exceeding five or more) However, I posit that even the best players suffer from tilt - except the better performers will know how to mitigate the effects of tilt itself (more on that later). Hence, this concept is important because everyone has the potential to suffer from it - and will find the consequences on their stats and enjoyment adversely affected. Am I on Tilt, or are the pubbies just bad? The most important thing is to recognize whether or not you may be on tilt to begin with. The pilot can't pull out of a stall over the ocean at night if he doesn't have the instruments to assist him out of the uncontrollable dive. So in essence, you'll have to calibrate your own instruments to determine whether or not you may be experiencing a negative/destructive emotional response to a particularly bad round. Pubbies being bad is something you will have to do your best to compensate for - and the blame will almost always fall to the random players on your team. Some of it is due to actual fail by your team, personal ego or even partly affected by mild symptoms of FG_'s Dunning-Kruger effect. This is just a normal function of the human brain, but let's focus on some tilt symptoms: Symptoms Nasty streak: Losing more than five games in a row Unnatural aggression: Opting to rush the enemy in situations, taking unnecessary hull damage to hasten the game and take a quick win at all costs Scapegoating: Exponentially angered by the actions of the platmates/allies, even though they are not doing anything particularly wrong Self-Loathing: Performed below self-assigned WR theshold (ie: must achieve 55% WR or higher for the day) Loss of Control: "Ah who cares, clearly everything is down to luck anyway! my losses so far prove that!". Player stops trying because he believes he cannot recover from the losses. As from the list above, those are based on my personal observations - but I invite everyone to add to the symptoms. We've also experienced at least one, two or more of the symptoms of tilt - because a lot of the forum warriors tend to be more sensitive and alert to their own game performance. As I've just covered the symptoms, let us explore some of the potential triggers of tilt in our server: Triggers Time of day: Playing very early in the morning or extremely late results in poor MM (and randoms). Losses incurred have high chances to make the player experience Loss of Control. Stamina levels: Playing whilst tired and fatigued results in a shorter temper fuse and poorer acceptance of mistakes. Seeing a lemming when we're tired makes us a lot angrier than when well-rested. Harsh self-expectations: Playing with a high WR benchmark (Say 75%+ or whatever) makes it easier for you to move into Scapegoating and Self-Loathing when something goes awry. Guilty dive: Failure to carry a game, failure to cover a platmate, or missing easy shots (RNG, curse you!) can result in a tilt trigger. Especially if the person feels they have failed a comrade. Taunting: Doesn't often occur with the mature performers here, but taunting and inciting can lure solid players to deviate from their usual game-plan. This can result in an unexpected loss. How about some suggested ways we can mitigate tilt? Methods of mitigating Tilt Thinking about this section, I realized that it depends on the player's own preparation and steps they take to win a match. It also demands that the individual is honest and self-aware about their own emotional thresholds. Just how reactive and proactive are you in ensuring you don't fall into the trap of Tilt Spiral? Reactive Measures Stop Playing: "Maybe the next game I will win for sure!" No, just step away from the PC and do something else. Clear your mind and re-approach the game after you've calmed down. Analyzing Gameplay: Take a good look if you were using a non-optimal strategy. Yes you got top damage, but did you sacrifice map control to do so? What adjustments should be made? Venting Anger: You have to take out and manage that frustration somehow. Some people seal club in loltraktors and some make an angry thread on the forums. Find a way that works for you. Proactive Measures Reasonable Goals: Don't go into a day with unreasonable expectations, increase your goal milestones step by step. To some people that's 52% WR, and others 70%+. Everyone is different. Maximum Loss Thresholds: Set a personal "You shall not pass!" barrier of losses. Be fair, if you lose five games - then make a commitment to take a break and do something else. Positive Mindset: Make the best out of a situation, and play your hardest - tilts are a temporary phenomena. Platoon if that helps you maintain a more social and relaxed mindset. I know there's an explosion of words here, but I would like to know what you guys think about applying the concept of tilt to World of Tanks - and if you believe it is a relevant phenomena on our server. I also invite additions to not only the symptoms of tilt, but also ways to mitigate tilt based on your experience in public games, tank companies and clan wars. Cheers!
  6. Foreword: Wrote this guide at another post,made it much more detailed than I originally expected,feel free to comment/criticize/question. -- The T-43 is an outstandly mediocre tank,it takes a special skill set to like/perform well in it. -Penetration too anemic with AP to trade shots frontally. (T29's will give you trouble) -Armor too weak to play like a tanky heavy. -Too sluggish to be a real flanking medium. -Too big and blind to passive spot efficiently. -Not enough ammo to snipe. However,it does have strengths of it's own. -Armor thickness of 75/75/75,this is KV-1 armor,about the same as a Tiger H. -Really nice DPM,great balance of reload : alpha -Sufficient mobility to reset cap/adapt effectively. -Box armor,I cannot stress how excellent it is for making your own angles,abuse sidescrape,you can also bully less than 200 pen guns by driving at about 30~40 degress away from them(same applies for turret). -Whole turret face is a mantlet,semi-reliable. -Surprisingly resilient to artillery. --What to do -What you have here is a pseudo-heavy with medium like qualities,get to places fast and bully light tanks,reach and reset cap in time. -Abuse the armor,while it may not seem like much on paper it is really capable when you play it right,done properly it can bounce Tier 9's and 10's with relative ease. -Carry ALOT of APCR,when you come across something you may have trouble penetrating,load up dem shinies. -While you can't circle effectively,try rubbing sides with bigger tanks,you'll be surprised how well it works despite the flaws of this tank,if you're competent enough,try going in a box around their tank. -Be patient,this is very important in every tank,patience wins you games,rushing and camping doesn't,stay a safe distance so you don't get pinned down,but not to the point where you become irrelevant. -What not to do -Overchasing things,you're slow and its more than likely to outrun you. -Become complacent,you need to manually angle to actually bounce stuff,this is not a pike. -Be stingy with ammo,a win with APCR will net you more than a loss with AP unless you're shooting like a terribaddie. -Overestimate/Undestimate your opponent,you need to know your capabilities,while you shouldn't fight that E-75,you shouldn't be fearing a Tiger II. Picture of T-43 stats for credibility : Picture of optimal angle to show enemy/what it looks like from your POV (also a chance to shamelessly show off my custom T-43 skin) : What it will look like to them. What it looks like to you You want to make the side slightly steeper than the front because it lacks natural slope and they are more likely to shoot it if you're driving to them.
  7. Wrote a 4-part guide with two other teams from scratch that got published by WG, forgot to port it over to Wotlabs, figured this would be good for internet reputation points people who want to get into 7/42 and people who wish to become better in 7/42,the version I'm porting over is the our original*(img links were reuploaded) google doc we submitted to WG filled with our uh...authentic language. Links to original WG page : http://worldoftanks.asia/en/news/21/guide-to-team-battle-mode-1/ http://worldoftanks.asia/en/news/21/guide-to-team-battle-mode-2/ http://worldoftanks.asia/en/news/21/guide-to-team-battle-mode-3/ http://worldoftanks.asia/en/news/21/guide-to-team-battle-mode-3-2/ http://worldoftanks.asia/en/news/21/guide-to-team-battle-mode-4/ Insidious Gaming, Team Efficiency and Avant Garde’s English Guide to 7/42 E-Sports for the masses. Greetings to those who are interested in 7/42 E-Sports and its Tournaments. WG has requested that we make this gloriously exquisite guide to the unwanted, unwashed, downtrodden and demoralized men of the ASIA server who seek leadership and guidance to play 7/42 after numerous crushing defeats. It was then authorized by the Supreme and Glorious Heir of the Righteous One, Duchess of the Pubs, Ruthless Slayer of the Unworthy, Gracious Savior of the Uneducated Masses, Grand Connoisseur of The Most Fine Cuisine, Steadfast Carrier of the Undeserving, Most Purple of the Unicum of Unicums, Treasurer of Tiny Fortunes, The Loyal Lieutenant of Insidious Gaming, Daring Diplomat of the Dumb Pubbeh Safari, Most Holy Leader and Pioneer of the T1 Master Race, Fearless Comnisar of the People’s YOLO Party, and the One True Princess that the ASIA Server needs but does not deserve, ♚Nisa♚ “If a princess does not lead the charge, her subjects will not follow” That we fulfill the request of WG and as such, after many hours of menial labour, motivated by the working people who look upon us to deliver them from defeat at the hands of the ruthlessly barbaric pubbies, that we present to you our Finest Work of Art. Let this guide be able to assist you in your endeavours. Firstly, our credentials. Who is ISG? ISG is Insidious Gaming. Last time we Alpha Team Singapore. But den the ISG ppl see us like wah... machiam got potential sia, so they offer us sponsor in exchange for publicity lor. So we accept lor. Who is Team Efficiency? Red Panda+Donkey+Skyfox+Malaysian/Singaporean Pro Tankers+Indonesian Pro Arty *** Who is Avant Garde? Previously we were Grumpy Old Men and formed from the PANZAC clan player pool. We have since picked up a sponsor “Avant Garde” and joined DPS when the clan was created. Our 3 Tournament Teams makes the Core of DPS 1) What is 7/42 7/42 is the standard international WoT E-Sports tournament format. There are 7 players and the team has 42 max points and Tier 8 is the max tier. Hence the usual lineup is 5 Tier 8s and 2 Tier 1s. There have been other lineups, but it is generally not recommended. 2) The Team for 7/42 In the team of 7. There are 3 groups of people. i) The Captain / Battle Caller / Field Commander(FC) The Captain (or caller) is the one who has the final say and commands a team during 7/42 battles, to his team, his voice is like the word of God. Coordination of the team rests on this poor person’s shoulders. The caller is usually in a Tier 1 in city maps as it ensures that he can focus better as he is less agitated or likely to panic as being in a Tier 8 taking fire and calling a team is very difficult to do. Generally the caller drives a T8 on wide open maps due to the T1’s lack of radio range or by choice. Most teams have a backup caller/ Lieutenant who knows when to take over if the main caller is not making calls or has become involved too deeply in a battle with another tank. Usually this person will also call if/when the primary caller is unavailable. ii) The Tier 8s The tier 8 drivers are the soldiers of the team. They must know what the FC wants from them and they must be able to work together effectively and know their relative positions. Initiative is the keyword. In order for sucess, one driving a T8 must be aware that the FC is unable to see everything that is happening on the battlefield and hence must have the ability to be proactive and cooperate with his/her FC during a match. Knowledge of Sharing HP and Focus Fire is expected. Firing Lanes and Map Knowledge is recommended. Inside the T8 player group there is a subgroup these are your 2 primary scout players. They generally are your most aware and best crewed 13-90 players. These 2 players will generally know what your caller wants before he actually asks for it and will have an inate sense on when to fight and when to be passive as well as intimate knowledge of scouting spots and safe routes of passage for ALL tourney maps. iii) The Tier 1s. Never underestimate the power of the Tier 1. As Nisa would say “There are 5 Tier 8s, but only 2 Tier 1s. It’s OBVIOUS which one is more important.” The Tier 1s are the eyes and early warning system of the team. They are often used as Passive spotters. They can effectively halt an enemy advance just by spotting them. The T1 drivers have to be extremely skilled as losing a T1 engagement causes the team to be unable to push that flank without being spotted. Depending on the strat, T1s may be outfitted with optics and GLD for aggressive attacks against enemy T1s. Camo net and binocs are used for passive purposes in order to spot much further. DO NOT EVER just throw away your T1’s they can cap just as fast as a T8! The Captain MUST know his team well. Some members are great at Single shot vehicles. And some love autoloaders. And some are skilled at T1s such as Nisa who believes that #T1MASTERRACEYOLO420NOSCOPE. Hence, Nisa was promoted to T1 duty due to exceptional performance in the TAM Season 1 Grand Finals. Make sure your members play tanks they are comfortable with. Never force them to play something they hate or are uncomfortable with as this would be detrimental to your team. Ideally your team will have the following specialists. 2 Dedicated T1 Drivers (Sealclubbers/Statpadders can fit this role well as they are used to low tier combat,they must know how to keep their cool and win T1 engagements from time to time) 2 Light Specialists (Dedicated AMX 13 90/WZ-132 Drivers, must also be able to handle at least one Heavy/Support vehicle for urban settings, usually 13 90 drivers are put in 50 100s for city maps for their distinct similarity, however a T69 or other Support class vehicles may also work depending on what the player is comfortable with) 2 Brawlers/Heavies (Dedicated IS-3/110/T32/KV-5 Drivers, must also be able to handle Support vehiles if Heavies aren’t being used. Usually an AMX 50 100/M26/T69/Rhm Borsig or a Obj 416 will suffice when the team needs it.) 1 All-Rounder (This player will be your filler, he will be the one who is ready to fill any role necessary. This player may not be your best scout or heavy, but he will fufill multiple roles when the situation calls upon it.) iv) Finding and Joining a team for 7/42. It’s not fun to play with randoms in Team Battle mode. Trust us, no communication means that it will probably result in losses more often than wins. Playing with people you know and those who are on voice comms is generally more effective. Most Tournament teams start on the basis of a group of players who know each other by some means whether it be platoon buddies, forum buddies, clanmates, or even those you know personally by face. If you lack these options then the best way to start is to find a clan which is competitive enough to put together a team. Most of the time there will be someone with the initiative to create the team, however if there is no one willing to be the Captain then be prepared to take that role. Find some people who seem nice and willing to cooperate with a team, this is key as good communication is crucial in 7/42, remember to ask them what tanks they are comfortable in. Start off by playing a few platoons together to see how well you gel/mesh with the poential team member, this is often the best way to see how well you work as a team. When ready, try some team battles to get a feel of the 7/42 mode. When you feel you have mastered 7/42 and are comfortable with your current team, try signing up for an official tournament. 3) Tanks for 7/42 IS-3 - The IS-3 is the standard Tier 8 Single shot for 7/42s. They usually work in pairs and they are a very nice tier 8 tank to brawl. Its sideskirts allow for effective rear sidescraping and they have good alpha. This tank brawls with other tier 8s and soak hits to ensure that their AMX 50s can fire safely. Red Panda’s Tip: This is the easiest tank to learn but one of the hardest to master, generally this is the failsafe tank, an All-Purpose Heavy ready for most situations. Assign your all-rounders or brawlers in this tank. Survivability of this tank is generally underestimated as when rushed, the IS-3 can be relied upon to hold it’s ground for a decent amount of time before it goes down if it has a good driver who knows how to use it. Engagements are best in mid-close range to an all out brawl, arguably the best tank to peek-a-boo with. Generally used in city maps or maps that offer cover without long sight lines. Pros: - Side Skirts make this tank almost invulnerable to any tank firing HEAT premium ammo - Very nice first strike damage on the 122mm BL-9 (390 average - packs a big punch per shot) - Good mobility for a heavy tank (makes aggressive flex strats work) - Good accuracy on the move - Tough turret overall (minus the weakspots), useable for window/hulldown positions - Fires APCR *lol* Cons: - Armour is poor against APCR rounds when this tank is exposed (in the open) to enemy fire - Frontal hull armor is pathetic, made worse after the recent IS-3 nerf. - Sustained firepower is underwhelming, it will lose a sustained firefight in the open without cover - Accuracy and aim-time is not suited for long range sniping - View Range is abysmal (350m), the most blind tier 8 tank - Ammo Rack is fragile (prepare to get one shotted or have a 20 sec reload when unlucky) 110 - The 110 is an alternative to the IS-3. It has a faster firing and more accurate gun but has lower alpha. It is slightly more mobile than the IS-3 but lacks sideskirts to sidescrape in order to hold a flank. This is a more aggresive IS-3 but is much harder to master. Red Panda’s Tip: An IS-3 with a higher DPM gun for sustained gunfights, armour transferred from the side to the front, tougher frontal but weaker sides when compared to the IS-3. Works best when piloted by experienced Heavy drivers as armour is harder to use against multiple enemies. Close-mid range engagements are best suited, however this tank is better at sustaining constant fire rather than peek-a-boo trading. Generally seen replacing the IS-3 on city maps or semi open maps depending on the strat either being more aggressive or defensive. Pros: - Very good frontal pike armour, very resistant to enemy fire front on, APCR ammo included - Quick reload on 100mm gun (~8 seconds), allows for continuous fire against enemy tanks - Mobility is slightly better than the IS-3, this makes this tank a very good spearhead for an assault - Fires APCR - Good at 1v1 tank duels (sustained, not peeking) Cons: - Weak side and rear armour, easily penetrated by flanking autoloaders - Accuracy when moving is not the best - IS-3 sidescrapes better than the 110 - Dies really quick when ganged by multiple enemies dues to the lack of side armour skirts AMX 50 100 - This is the standard Tier 8 Autoloader for 7/42s. They are usually in pairs. They can effectively clip any tier 8 tank. KV-5 included if they roll high. They are mobile enough to keep up with IS-3 packs but has relatively poor camo and extremely soft armor that can be penetrated by tier 1’s. Red Panda’s Tip: The standard ‘clipper’ tank. ~1800 damage dumped in under 15 seconds, fast chassis, no armour, long reload. Used as an ambusher or as a fast strike tank/flanker, make sure players on your team who are driving this has a lot of experience with autoloaders as missing/bouncing even one or two shots may be crucial. Meant for medium-long range combat, this tank does not fare well against return fire, so it’s best to set it up to deal damage without taking any. Usually seen as the universal damage dealing tank, useable on any map, however on open maps it is very vulnerable as it is easily spotted. Pros: - Autoloader - Kills extremely fast (provided all shots penetrate lol) Spike damage is excellent - Fast, can speed around the map and relocate very quickly to different shooting positions - Heavy with good speed means it can ram kill T1s without shooting them - Versatile vehicle, can support a defence or an assault. - Fires APCR Cons: - Armour……. lol…. What armour?? - Camo value…….. Camo?? What the heck is that? - Magazine Reload………. Rhm-Borsig - Invisible Punisher. This is pretty much a single shot version of the AMX 50. It’s a good sniping tank and its high camo value means that enemy teams are unable to easily push a flank that this vehicle is covering. Do not get spotted in this tank as it is not mobile enough to run away and can be easily peforated by any tier 1. Red Panda’s Tip: The Slipper of Doom. Ability to mount a long range sniping 128mm cannon (490) or a 150mm derp howitzer (750). This vehicle is basically an AMX 50 100 TD version without an autoloader, it can lay waste to any other T8 tank at range provided it is not exposed. Excellent camouflage and firepower, however mobility is poor to say the least. Devastating tank when piloted by the best shooter on the team, best suited at long range when using the 128mm cannon or the 150mm in CQC. Again, a vehicle that can be employed on most maps, however it must be used correctly to spell success. Pros: - 2 gun choices, allows for flexibility in strats - Great damage dealer, both cannons can demolish other tanks very quickly - Excellent Camo Value, very hard to detect when hidden behind cover - Excellent View Range (400m base) Cons: - Gets murdered by T1 tanks due to it not having any sort of armour whatsoever - 1100 HP, not alot when getting shot at - Slow, very slow. The IS-3 and the 110 moves faster. Obj. 416 - This also works like the Borsig but with some armor and a faster firing lower alpha gun, it’s effectiveness is significantly lowered when facing a well played IS-3 or hull down Pershing due to it’s HEAT premium ammo. Is also very prone to module damage more so from the front where most hits will take the engine. Red Panda’s Tip: T-54 at T8 without the armour. This tank has everything the T-54 offers with a rear mounted turret. Stealthy and mobile, this tank is an excellent choice for open maps. Very easy to handle and used out in the open, any medium tank driver should feel at home with this tank. Best used as a mobile stealth sniper on open/semi-open maps, Engagement ranges are usually suited for longer ranges to allow this vehicle to retain it’s camo, however it can brawl in an emergency as it will kill (out DPM) all T8 tanks bar autoloaders. Pros: - T-54 gun, very high DPM, whatever is exposed out in the open will die very quickly to this gun. - Amazing camouflage values, won’t get spotted most of the time if well hidden. - Mobility is superb, like the 50 100, this tank can relocate quickly - Amazing accuracy on the move, when charging an enemy without armour, autoaim is viable Cons: - 1200 HP isn’t much when caught out by multiple enemies - HEAT ammo………... - Lack of gun depression means that engagement areas must be selected carefully - Prone to engine damage (front mounted engine) - Turret does not rotate 360 degrees but is sufficient. AMX 13 90 - This is the standard T8 active scout. Extremely mobile coupled with a high burst damage output and good camo makes it a excellent scout. Usually used in pairs just like the 50 100 as well. Note that it must stop to shoot at 200m or more. Do not waste your shots as it after all an autoloader. Red Panda’s Tip: An all-time favourite Light for professional teams, view range+speed and an autoloader all in one. Used on semi open/open maps due to it’s versatility, essentially an alternative to the AMX 50, just trading firepower and gun control for speed an camo. Recommended only for those who knows vision/camo mechanics and also has superb situational awareness with experience managing a magazine reload. Pros: - Fastest T8 Tournament tank (50-65kph on flat ground), moves very well - High Camo Value - Nimble and Agile, ability to dodge shells and circle strafe Heavies - Autoloader (High spike damage, 240x6 dumped in under 15 sec) - Excellent View Range (400m base) - Fires APCR Cons: - Magazine Reload………. - Horrible gun control (terribad on-the-move dispersion and aim time) - Frontal Engine with a tendency to take damage and/or get set on fire. - The humiliation when a T1 kills you. WZ-132 - An alternative to the AMX 13 90. Its single shot and hence can shoot on the move in hopes to hit a tank. It has 2 gun choices. The 85mm and the 100mm. The 85mm has more DPM but fires HEAT which struggles against opponents equipped with spaced armour. The 100mm fires APCR, and more alpha but has lower DPM. The choice is yours to decide which gun you prefer. Red Panda’s Tip: The ignored alternative to the 13 90, usually not chosen because of it’s unreliable premium ammunition (85mm) and it’s lack of burst/spike damage. However in some ways it is more versatile than the AMX 13 90 with the absence of the magazine reload and also provides the same speed/agility along with being less prone to fires as the engine is located at the rear of the tank. Good choice for those who are new to Light Tanks as the autoloader on the AMX 13 is harder to manage, this tank is fairly easy to handle and has decent gun control coupled with two gun options. Pros: - Easier to manage than the AMX 13 90 - Decent accuracy and aim-time compared to the AMX 13 90 - Excellent View Range (400m base) - Great at taking out T1s without the need to reload a clip Cons: - 85mm fires HEAT - 100mm has low DPM - Loses to AMX 13 90 in a brawl T32 - The T32 is a solid tier 8 tank. Its turret armor is an invaluable asset to any team. Once hull down, it is nearly impossible to debunk unless you hit its copula repeatedly without being shot at. That being said, it has HORRIBLE hull traverse. This is a tank that has to be used defensively. Avoid using it offensively unless it can obtain hulldown positions safely as it will be punished if caught in the open. It also responds well to using the 90mm gun over the 105mm as the increased rate of fire enhances its suppressive factor. Red Panda’s Tip: The terrain abuser, this vehicle has a monster of a turret that can bounce T10 guns along with scout level View Range, hence it is usually used in a defensive role on open/semi-open maps. Firepower and Mobility is fairly underwhelming with nothing special to mention besides that the gun does it’s job ok and straight line speed is decent. Yet again an all purpose Heavy for a more defensive team and used on maps where terrain can be abused. Very user friendly so beginners/new team members may find themselves at home with this vehicle. Engagement ranges are usually mid-long range, however this tank can brawl in a pinch due to it’s decent DPM and suppressive effect. Pros: - Stronk turret armor (near invulnerable), useable in hulldown positions - Excellent View Range (400m base) - Decent selection of 2 guns - Large tracks are quite HEAT resistant, much like the IS-3 side skirts - Excellent gun depression and elevation angles Cons: - Turns like a dying whale on a beach - Generally slow and lacks mobility when compared to other Heavy Tanks - Does not fare well when flanked or rushed as the weaker hull will get perforated with the inability to escape quickly. T69 - The T69 is an alternative to the AMX 50 100 when better gun depression and mobility is required. It reloads faster than the 50100 and clips faster and hence spends less time getting shot at. It is up to your FC to decide which one he feels is more beneficial to your team. Since it fires HEAT ammo, it will struggle when facing the spaced armour of IS-3’s and hulldown Pershings (mantlet). Red Panda’s Tip: The ‘faster’ AMX 50 100, this tank is more suited to hit-n-run tactics due to it’s faster reload and limited clip size. HEAT rounds are very unreliable, making this tank not a priority pick since the HEAT nerf, the poor gun penetration when it comes to fighting Heavies does not have security to cover the increased DPM when compared to the AMX 50 100 therefore rendering this tank redundant to some extent in certain situations where it’s spike is cancelled out by non-penetrating HEAT ammo. Requires a player with knowledge of weakspots and superb situational awareness, suited to mid range combat, this tank can lay waste to enemy Lights and tanks with no armour. Pros: - Very high spike damage (~960 damage in 6 seconds) - Similar Mobility to the AMX 50 100 (Fast, can support different positions/relocate very quickly) - Better gun depression when compared to the 50 100 - Decent Camo Value - Excellent View Range (400m base) - Fast autoloader drum/clip reload (23-25 sec) Cons: - HEAT ammo…….. - HEAT ammo……………… - HEAT ammo……………………………. -.- This will sometimes cost you games……. - Gun control similar to the AMX 13 90 (Bad aim-time and accuracy on the move) M26 Pershing - The Pershing is the T32 version of the T69. It is somewhere in between the T32 and T69. Its mantlet is able to bounce shots but it is not invulnerable. It has a nice and comfortable gun that is superb when on the move shooting along with a considerable HP boost over the T69. However it wont last long in brawls due to its squishy hull and hence should be used for prolonged engagements. Red Panda’s Tip: The tank that is used as a niche for strats that require a faster T32 to secure an early position at the sacrifice of the durability and the DPM. The turret is not invlunerable like the T32, however it is alot more durable than the T69 and is slightly faster and also offers an APCR round that will offer easier penetration when facing heavy armour (IS-3, T32 etc). Pretty much all players should feel comfortable in this tank, however the lack of specialty may be noticed by some who favour a particular style, best used in prolonged mid range poking engagements where terrain can be abused, this tank can hold very well against HEAT ammo, however at close range, many tanks will outperform the M26 due to it’s lack of sustained firepower. Pros: - Fires APCR ammo with high pen of 268mm - HEAT resistant turret mantlet. - Excellent View Range (400m base) - Moblility on par with the Obj. 416 - Better gun control than the T69 Cons: - Mediocre DPM (sustained fire) - Jack-of-All-Trades (does abit of everything, but not to the extent which other tanks can do) - Paper hull armour, will not last long in a close range engagement. KV-5 - The ultimate YOLO tank. The tank that defines Nisa. This monster of a tier 8 boasts the highest HP and DPM. This is a pure offensive tank and is used to soak up all the damage. If it takes 18 shots from 3 AMX 50100s, it has effectively rendered your other 4 comrades to fire without fear for at least 45 seconds. Use this tank to violate your enemies ever so severely with extreme prejudice, great care and the Will of the People will guarantee your success. Red Panda’s Tip: The Damage Sponge, this vehicle is the one chosen for it’s ability to take damage like there is no tomorrow, with 1780 HP, this is the highest amount of HP any T8 tank will go even surpassing some T9 vehicles in terms of durability. Suited to urban engagements, this tank can either be used very aggressively or very defensively due to it’s durability, best engagement ranges usually come down to mid-close range to allow the gun to target weakspots with it’s poor accuracy and penetration. Again like the T69, this tank requires someone with experience and knowledge of targeting weakspots. Pros: - Nisa smiles upon those who drive this tank with the Will of the People - Surprisingly fast for its size in a straight line - Very high DPM, Fast reload - Very high health pool that allows to soak many hits before going down Cons: - Turns like a whale - Overrated armour values - Easily outmaneuvered by everything - Low penetration APCR 4) Crew Skills The minimum your crew should be at is debatable. Deathskyz’s minimum is a 100% Crew, Commander with 6th Sense and Loader with Safe Stowage. Grivyn’s minimum for teams looking to take 7/42 seriously is to have a 100% crew and partially trained third skill. If you are not looking at playing seriously then 100% crew with 6th sense should at least be obtained. comix’s minimum is a 6th Sense Commander with other crew members having it’s 2nd crew skill being trained up. The more the better…... 6th Sense 6th Sense or go home…… No 6th Sense = Don’t even bother playing 7/42. It is up to your FC to decide what is the minimum for your team. It is up to the players to choose the Skills/Perks which suit their tank and playstyle/role on the team, but 6th Sense is always a must. Helpful hint: To ensure rapid training of your tournament crew, purchase/obtain the corresponding premium tank (nation/class) in order to use your tourney crew for additional training daily doubles and x3/x5 when on offer. 4) Rules of Thumb for 7/42 1. Make sure you have thumbs. 2. Make sure to do a comms check to ensure everyone can hear and respond clearly to the calls as intended. 3. Do not underestimate the enemy. 4. Treat the opposing team with respect. Do not humiliate them no matter how easy they are. 5. Learn the proper times to suggest ideas to the FC and when NOT to do it. Examples of not suggesting ideas is when you are in a brawl. 6. Every member of the team is important, regardless of the tank he is playing. 7. Learn what equipment/crew setup would suit your tank best. 8. Location. Location. Location. Know where the enemy is before doing a push. 5) Things to avoid for 7/42 1. Spicy food. Always avoid spicy food, especially curry. You do not need an emergency bowel evacuation halfway in a match. 2. Do not overcall your FC. Ensure clear battle comms as having multiple people shouting does not help at all. 3. Avoid scolding in the heat of battle, save it for debrief. A stressed soldier does not get calmer with someone shouting in their headsets. 4. Avoid changing the strat right as the battle starts whenever possible, your comrades may be confused and may end up not knowing what to do/going to the wrong place/doing the wrong thing. 6) Simple Tactics and Strategies 1. Work as a Team, no matter how dumb this may sound to you, communication and positioning of tanks works wonders when done right, No matter how well a strat is planned, it is the execution of the plan or the quick reaction to an enemy movement which wins games. 2. Don’t be a lone wolf, stay together in pairs or groups for a force multiplier. A 2v1 or a 3v1 means that an enemy tank can be taken down very quickly in a matter of seconds without having to lose too much HP on your side. 3. Trade damage well, no need to peek out and take massive amounts of damage when you know there’s a small chance of landing damage on the enemy team. Only expose yourself to enemy fire is you know it’s going to be a worthy trade where they are going to lose more overall HP than your own tanks. Remember that its a trade. Not a donation. 4. Sharing damage means the life and death of your tanks when it comes down to an all out brawl. Take a hit for your teammate if he is about to go down, a 1HP tank is still a gun to use for shooting the enemy, always remember that. 5. Focus Fire will take down a group of enemies faster than if you spread the damage around, one dead enemy means one less gun shooting at you and less HP lost on your side when the brawl settles down. 6. Don’t waste shots in autoloaders, bouncing/missing or shooting at T1s when not necessary will cost your team on a number of occasions. If there’s a T1 in sight, get a single shot tank to kill it if possible, only fire at it with a clipper if it is capping the base or it is spotting your team and no one else is around to take it out. 7) Inspriring motivational speeches to the masses Dont give up. No matter how badly you were thrashed by the enemy team, you can always learn what they do by watching their replays. Remember that all teams have to lose eventually and in some cases badly as well. Never stop learning. Every tank can make a significant difference. Be humble in both victories and defeats. Trust your team and they will trust you. YORO HARD AND STRONK SHOW NO FEAR! ~Nisa ~~~~~~ This guide was brought to you by ~~~~~~ -Cute Boi Comix aka. Red Panda -Nyan Hetzer Deathskyz -All Blacks Kiwi Grivyn -Princess Nisa -Elite the Princess Consort Ellie -Clan Donkey djuice -SickTank the Malay Abang
  8. Recently rediscovered a personality test site,tested it on a couple of friends and the results proved to be rather interesting. Thus I would like to know what kind of results the people here would get. The test can be taken at this page : http://www.keirsey.com/sorter/register.aspx The results can be interpreted at this page : http://www.keirsey.com/4temps/overview_temperaments.asp Happy 2014 btw.
  9. I gained about 1000 WN8 in my 60D WN8 and 700~ in my overall. I'm curious to see how well it scales with other people,a 400-ish increase seems to be the most common among my peers. So far I have not seen a decrease when comparing WN7 and WN8. Colour Chart : Relevant (?) Picture :
  10. *I made this for fun because I'm a dumb pubbie~* Original thread so you can +1/bump him if you want to,n-not like I wanted to credit him or anything b-baka! : http://forum.worldoftanks.asia/index.php?/topic/27141-mrdeads-fv215b-183-montage/ OMG 1440P SO YOU CAN LOOK AT BUGS IN THE GRASS OR SOMETHING!!1! : http://youtu.be/gjkkejO64Vk Awesome montage...I'm running out of stuff to actually write,so have this picture instead,Reiuji is now 183-chan : I guess I have a pretty horrible style of posting,but I'm not sober so it's fun.
  11. Found this gem thread in one of my archives,original thread is down so I'll be copy pasting whatever I can,credits to the author named Toasted_Rofls(Thanks Misfire). Have a picture of a Luchs because its a cute tank lol. The Real History of World War II, 1938-1952 (Pictured Above) The E-100 makes its combat debut in the Second Battle of Stalingrad, where it proved highly effective (picture is missing,was a photo of a E-100 in combat) 1. Introduction I'm going to begin my thread with this: I've been on there forums for some time now, and there is one thing that I always see that bugs me, every time, and that is these debates over German tanks and Russian tanks and WWII and historical accuracy. They are almost always wrong, completely. The devs show appalling amounts of ignorance, as do most members of the forums, who do not seem to remember the events that took place during the fateful years of 1938 through 1952 that made up WWII. They forget the performance the Maus displayed during the Battle of Moscow, they ignore the chronic underperfomance that plagued Russian tanks. Even the much vaunted T-54 was easily defeated by the superior German army, and despite the massive swarms of them that had been amassed for the Second Battle of Stalingrad, the German E series tanks and even the older King Tiger, Panther II, and even the old reliable warhorse that was the Tiger managed to defeat them with ease despite being outnumbered, proving once and for all that the German strategy of quality of quantity was the best way to win wars. This tactic was later copied by the Americans during the second half (1948-1952) of WWII with much success. There are historical inaccuracies everywhere in this game. Russian, American, and French tanks constantly get fantasy buffs and armaments they never had, while despite there being numerous prototypes of a 105mm armed Tiger, the devs refuse to put it into the game and give us a an answer as to why. Meanwhile, the IS-7 gets a 260mm pen gun, despite the fact the Russians where never able to get any of their guns to go through anything thicker then 200mm of normal unangled steel, much less the superior quality German steel, which was nearly twice as effective as normal Allied steel. The Panther II can't even kill IS-3 from 5000 meters like it did in real life during the previously mentioned Second Battle of Stalingrad, despite possessing more than enough accuracy and firepower to do so, as well as the incredibly high quality optics and fire control systems, nevermind Germany having the best trained tank crews of the entire war. Because of all this craziness and in some cases, outright lies and stupidity, that are floating around the forums, I have decided to make this thread to help educated the forums about true WWII, instead of this Russian fantasy game, a game where the T-34 can kill a PZ IV from the front, a game where the GW Type E doesn't even get its 38cm Bismarck cannon and computer fire control. Pay attention, because you are in for a history lesson you will never forget. 2. Basic Timeline of Events Of WWII, 1938-1952 -1938: Germany and Russia both invade Poland. Germany has far, far more success then the Russians do during this campaign, only loosing 12 men compared to Russians 2 million. -1939: Germany successfully invades France and all other European countries surrounding it. -1940: America begins selling its worst tanks off to the desperate British, who Germany has just declared war upon. -1941: Germany invades an ill-prepared Russia. Within 10 days, they have successfully captured Stalingrad and are preparing for further offensives. -1942: Britain nearly falls to a German invasion, launched by the mighty Kriegsmarine, who's superior naval might almost crushes the British defensive forces entirely. -1943: Japan begins to gear up its huge industrial capacity and manpower for war, putting out 10 Yamoto classes a month. The Russian campaign continues for Germany. -1944: Britain finally falls with the successful introduction of the new Me 264, a vastly improved version of the older Me 262. This new variant posses improved guided missiles, which prove crucial in taking out the last pockets of British resistance. -1945: Japan invades the remaining parts of Asia it did not already control with astonishing success. By the end of 1946, they had control of nearly half of China. The Soviets manage to continue holding out against the vastly superior German forces. -1946: German troops sweep down from Africa to assist Japan in invading Australia, and are transported by the new U-Stadt's, or "Underwater Cities" which can carry up to 3000 men at a time, and are essentially massive hybrid U-Boats/Troop transports. The US realizes that Germany striking on the mainland is now a very real possibility and begins to upgrade their recently developed electromagnetic sensory equipment. -1947: The crucial Second Battle of Stalingrad occurs. After immense Russian losses, Germany still manages to hold onto their key Russian city. The Moscow defenses are severely weakened as a result of this massive Soviet push, as troops are forced to be siphoned off from their guard positions around the city. -1948: Two major events occurred. The first is the Battle of Hawaii and the entering of the US into the war. The second is the famous Battle of Moscow, where last minute shipments of American equipment allow the Russians to just barely retake the city, but at tremendous cost in Russian life. -1949: American is forced to fight a war on two fronts, against the Germans in the Atlantic, and against both the Germans and Japanese in Australia and Alaska. Later in the year, both the Germans and American perfect the nuclear reactor, and the face of war changes forever, as conventional engines rapidly become obsolete. -1950: The development of a suitable power source for the recently invented railgun allows America's navy to gain the upperhand on Germany's for the first time in the war, and they manage to retake Alaska, Hawaii, and Britain. The Germans rapidly begin mounting there own electromagnetically powered weapons in the form of the competing gauss gun design onto any vehicles and emplacements that could use them. Japan, always one of the least technologically advanced nations (even to this day) lacks the proper facilities for building these new reactors and is forced to continue relying on swarm tactics. -1951: America slowly but surely pushes back against Germany in Europe, with new weapons cropping up on each side near daily. A newly liberated Australia is turned into a staging center for American military forces to attack Japan. Germany successfully puts the first satellite into space. Shorty afterwards, realizing how much of an advantage Germany had from GPS, America launches their own satellites. -1952: Japan is crushed under the force of the massed American naval power. Germany, however, continues to grow stronger, and manage to begin pushing back the Allies and setting up defensive lines wherever possible, until a brave rally of the liberated and now re-equipped Europeans combined with a desperate final push by the Russians forces Germany into a position where further offensive actions are far more difficult. The final blow came with the destruction of the German High Commands mountain bunker headquarters by internal actions, which will be explained in depth later. The war then ends, and the world has forever been changed as a result. 3. History of WWII, First Half, 1938-1948 Historians have generally reached the consensus that it was Poland who started WWII. Poland had been slinging insults at Germany for the past two years, and always interrupted them when they where trying to talk to other countries. However, the patient German people, lead by the patient, logical Adolf Hitler, did not flinch. That is, until Poland crossed the fine line and insulted Hitlers mustache. At that point, the wound to Germany's pride was far to great, and the only way to heal it would be to test out Germany's as of yet unused Panzer IV on the puny, poorly trained Polish army. Since the Tiger and Panther tanks had not been finished, and the Leopard was still in the design phase, Germany had no extreme armor, firepower, or scouts. To compensate for the lack of scouts, they upengined the PZ II with a 600 HP engine and installed an improved 2cm flak/AT gun. To compensate for the lack of firepower, the PZ IV's where upgunned with the new 88 L/56 cannon, and had addition plates welded to the front of then and the sides as well, bringing the hull armor up to 120mm frontal armor and 80mm side and rear armor. The Polish army was composed primarily of poorly trained conscripts, and there armor was almost all Cromwell tanks purchased from Britain. The armor on these tanks proved incredibly poor, as the PZ II had no trouble taking them out at well over 1000 meters with there autocannons, and the PZ IV had no issues taking them out at 3000 meters. The only thing worse then the Cromwells armor was its gun, and no shots taken by one ever penetrated a PZ IV. Germany, working with the Soviet Union, finished off Poland in 3 days. Next, they set their sights on France and the rest of Europe. The USSR, lead by drunk incompetent Communist, now believed Germany would always be friendly with them, a grave mistake they would soon regret making. Meanwhile, the Germans continued to rapidly work to improve their arsenal. By the time the Germans had reached France, the new Panther and Tiger tanks where ready for use. The field artillery was upgraded as well, using the new Panther chassis as a base for the highly successful GW Panther. Combined with the recent invention by German scientist of the computer, these new tanks would prove to be decisive. France was using at the moment the H-35 Hotchkiss, AMX M4 1945, AMX 13 75, and Bat Chatillon 155 as there primary armored vehicles. The Bat Chat and AMX 13 75 both used blatantly stolen German autoloader technology, but proved to be failures, as their guns simply did not have enough firepower to really make a difference vs the Tigers and Panthers. Germany rapidly and effectively conquered France, loosing three tanks, two of them light scouts, while the French lost well over 2000 armored vehicles. Even the once feared AMX M4 1945 could not hope to compete with the Tiger, which easily knocked them out from 5000 meters using its fearsome 88 L/71. The excellent German reliability and logistics also played a key role, as was their flexability provided by their armored speed. The Panther in particular was notable for reaching 80 KM/H on good terrain with it's highly reliable Maybach HL 234, which put out 870 HP. The Tiger was not much slower, still capable of hitting 60 KM/H. Next, Germany set its eyes on Britain. The powerful Kriegsmarine, backed up with its impressive fleet of Bismarck class battleships, easily smashed through the weak British fleet, surrounding the island nation, waiting for the appropriate equipment to put troops and tanks onto the ground. In the mean time, the Germans put their recently introduced Me 262 to use above the skies of London. The British propeller planes stood no chance against the German jet fighters, and Germany handily won the battle for the skies of England. The Germans, now feeling unstopable, invaded the Soviet Union next, where they won easily against everything opposition they faced. By this time, the Panther had been replaced by the Panther II armed with the Tiger's excellent 88 L/71 gun, and the Tiger was being prepared for retirement as King Tigers began arriving to replace them with their much feared 105mm naval guns. At this point, the Germans where encountering a mix of Russian, British, and American import tanks, all of which proved awful. There where multiple confirmed reports of Shermans lighting on fire spontaneously, T-34 literally being shook apart by German artillery fire due to their shoddy Russian built quality, and even the recently introduced British Centurion tanks couldn't beat a now retired Panzer IV, much less a King Tiger, which was essentially immune to them. The First Battle Of Stalingrad was perhaps the greatest testament to the complete and absolute superiority of German tanks over all others. A force of 100 King Tigers, 200 Panther II's, 50 Tigers, 50 Leopards, 50 JagdPanther II's, 25 GW Panthers, 10 GW Tigers, and 5 E-75 prototypes managed to knock out a combined total of 10,000 Soviet tanks, as well as shooting down well over 1,000 Soviet aircraft using the recently adopted flak rounds. Superior German optics, fire control systems, firepower, and crew training allowed them to make kills at an average distance of 7000 meters. After taking out the surrounding Red Army, the German army came in itself to clear the city out in conjunction with the tank units. There was no contest. Every man in the German army had either an StG 44 or an MG3, and the amount of firepower they poured out at the poorly trained Soviet conscripts armed only with Mosin Nagants was awe inspiring. The city was theirs within two days. The Germans quickly improved Stalingrad, turning it into their Russian HQ. Near immediately, they repurposed the Russian factories to start producing E-series tanks and the brand new Me 264. Prototype GW Type E's, mounting the same 38 CM guns the Bismarck class battleships used to have before they where upgunned to 50CM cannons, when combined with the Stalingrad mainframe computer, they put out astonishingly rapid and accurate fire. The city was then renamed "Hitlergrad", a name it kept until the end of the war. In one last attempt to stop the German onslaught, Britain managed to land a massive number of their best tanks at the time, the Valentine, and attempted to swarm the Germans. They where easy targets for concealed E-50s, which stopped all of them from an average distance of 8000 meters. The operation was a disaster for Britain, they lost over 1000 Valentines, while the Germans lost 4 of their own tanks. To prevent something like the Valentine rush that had just occurred from ever happening again, Hitler order England seized. The recently finished P.1000 "Ratte" model tanks where floated over on German landing craft, and they easily rolled through any defense Britain could feebly muster. Just before the final surrender occurred, a Sturmtiger fired a round into the Buckingham Palace, completely and utterly destroying it, a fitting symbolism for what had just happened to England. Germany continued to win battle after battle, and push Russia and any other European country not already destroyed or surrendered back farther and farther. Even the newly introduced Russian MBT, the T-54, stood no chance against your average German tank unless using swarm tactics in massed numbers. The final battle of the first part of the war, and the beginning of a chain of reactions that would eventually lead to the US entering the war in 1948, was the Second Battle Of Stalingrad. This was also the first battle where the E-100, Maus, JP E-100, FI 286 Gunship, and the P.1500 "Monster" where used, weapons that would prove to be incredibly important and practical. The Russian army was composed of about 10 million poorly trained conscripts, well over 40,000 tanks, 15,000 planes, and countless support personal and second line vehicles. German forces where around 1 million men, 3,000 tanks, around 200,000 support personal, 1,500 planes, and 500 FI 286 Helicopter gunships. This was probably the most even odds the Russians ever had up to this point in the war. Soviet tactics, where, as expected, poor at best. New tanks appeared at the Second Battle of Stalingrad from the Soviets as well, this time they where the IS-3, IS-4, T-62, and IS-7 prototypes. For the first time, the Russians had tanks capable of penetrating the front armor of a Tiger. However, by this time, the Tiger had been retired, and the E series had become the primary tanks of the German army. None of these new Russian tanks could even come close to matching the performance of any German tanks, and as expected, they achieved very little vs them. The E-100 variants in particular proved very deadly and versatile, as the 17cm versions and their HEDP shells proved incredibly potent against everything they where used against up close (under 4000 meters) while the 15cm L/60 firing APFSDS knocked out numerous IS-7's at well over 8000 meters, and the HESH shells they fired proved very effective at distances as well. The Soviet tanks where so bad, in one case, an E-75 shot through the turret of an IS-3, and the round proceeded to go through 8 more Russian tanks behind it, finally setting off the ammo rack in the last one it hit, which caused a chain reaction of explosions that wiped out half of the 3rd Red Army Tank Battalion. The Germans easily won the battle, as was to be expected. This point marked the entrance of WWII into its second distinctive phase, which lasted from 1948 to 1952. If the response to this history session I just provided is positive enough, I will make a second thread with the next installment in this little two, potentially three part series about the truth of WWII/ (Pictured Above) A Maus fighting in the streets during the Second Battle of Stalingrad, where it made its combat debut along with numerous other new vehicles (exactly what it says on the tin) 4. Conclusion, First Half Obviously, this was an abbreviated version of the full history, but I hope I summed up everything well enough that people will stop misquoting information about what really happened during World War II. It was obvious that during this entire first half of WWII, Germany faced absolutely no legitimate challenges to their armored superiority, and suffered no logistical problems, combined with having superior tactics and leaders. Russia, meanwhile, floundered around helplessly, as did the rest of Europe. America was secretly building an army that could rival even the mighty, nigh unstoppable German war machine, but the fiercely isolationist US did not wish to have to do anything with this war, and only sent over its awful WWI era tanks, like the Sherman and Pershing, because it would make them money and provide a way to get rid of them for newer, better models, such as the M48 and M110E5. Throughout this entire ordeal, Germany's focus on quality over quantity payed huge dividends, as the supremely reliable and effective German tanks, like the Tiger and Panther II proved their worth time and time again. Secret Soviet documents just recently released showed that the Russians considered one King Tiger the equivalent of 50 T-54's, or 30 IS-3's, and operational doctrine at the time demanded a ratio of 100 Russian tanks for every 1 German tank to guarantee success when attacking. 5. Glaring Historical Inaccuracies In This Game Where to start? German tanks are historically gimped in every possible way, and it's not even fair to compare the sham that are these in game German tanks to their real life counterparts. It was common knowledge that the long 88 the Tiger mounted historically was planned to be upgraded to a 105mm, the same that is found on the King Tiger, they even had working versions with it installed on the Tiger. However, the King Tigers rapid adoption meant that the Tiger would instead be slowly phased out instead of sticking around with a bigger gun, and Tiger chassis where turned into GW Tigers and Sturmpanzers. Yet, we German tankers don't even get the shorter 105mm that was mounted on the JagdPzIV in real life (another tank that does not get historical armaments) on our Tiger and to insult us further, the Tigers stock gun is the L/70, not even the 88 L/56 that even the lowly PZ IV was mounting. The stock gun on the King Tiger is the 88 L/71, but it never even mounted that gun in real life. Meanwhile, all the awful Russian, British, French, and American tanks that failed miserably in real life get fantasy armaments out the whazoo. Sherman with a 76mm? T-34 with a 57mm? An IS that could fire AP shells? Where do the devs get this stuff from, fantasy land? I have much more reliably sources, such as the History Channel, and I will provide a list of them at the end of this thread so you can know where to look if you want the real truth about WWII armored warfare. Here is a list of my primary grievances with in game German tanks vs. their real life counterparts. -PZ II: Historically, these where given 600HP engines and the suspensions and drive trains modified so that they could go 140 KM/H, which they did with ease. The 2cm has its penetration values horribly underrepresented in this game, in real life, it could go through 100mm of armor at 1000 meters with ease. -PZ IV: Lacking it's historical 120mm of frontal armor, 80mm of side and rear armor, 750HP engine, 88 L/56, and advanced optical systems, this is one of the biggest insults to history I have ever seen. If this tank was properly equipped and tiered, it would be a tier 9 tank in this game. It was easily outclassing the Sherman and T-34 is essentially every possible way the entire time it was in service. -Panther: I'm not sure what happened to the 75mm L/70's historical 250mm of pen, or the part where it could hit a moving T-34 at 4000 meters with a 95% chance first hit probability. I don't also remember it not having a 1,000 HP engine, or this historically inaccurate armor setup, which is about 50mm less thick then what it should be it pretty much all places. Also, I fail to see how the transmission ended up in the front, it's common knowledge that all German tanks where rear transmission vehicles. Did the devs just make up a tank and call it a Panther instead of doing any research, at all? -King Tiger: Despite numerous prototypes successfully mounting the 128cm gun with great affect, this tank doesn't get to mount it, and furthermore, they will not even give it its historically accurate 1,200 HP engine. Finally, the fact any Soviet tank can pen the upper glacis on this tank is insanely a-historical. -E-75: Despite coming standard from the Hitlergrad factories with a 128mm PaK 44/2 L/61, left over from the Jagdtiger production, in game they get the prototype 128mm that should instead be mounted on the King Tiger, and the devs even have the audacity to not give it its historical 300mm penetration, so it gets an incorrect gun with incorrect performance numbers. -E-50: Thousands of T-54 where eaten alive by the vastly superior E-50, yet in this game, the T-54 has the same armor and the same amount of penetration as the E-50! Hah! It's a well known fact that the E-50's vastly superior steel and build quality made it roughly 300% more durable then the T-54, and the E-50's gun had around 280mm of pen in real life, while a T-54 would be lucky to get through 180mm of normal steel, much less German steel. -E-100: It's absolutely disgusting what the devs have done to this tank. In real life, there where two variants, one which mounted the long barreled high velocity 15cm L/60 (Which is not even in this game) and the other mounted a 17cm demolition gun which the devs instead decided belonged on the JP E-100, which historically mounted a 21cm gun. With the standard APFSDS shells, the 15cm on the E-100 would throw a DU penetrator rod at well over 6000 feet per a second out to 10,000 meters with 600mm of penetration at 1,000 meters. What is in game is underarmored, undergunned, and underpowered. The E-100 historically had a 200mm lower plate, and a 3,000 HP engine, I guess the devs just decided to forget these somehow? -JP E-100: Where is my 21cm? Did the sinking of half the Soviet navy by JP E-100's armed with this gun firing on them from the shoreline suddenly not happen? Also, I am pretty sure the photos of this tank fighting in the Battle Of Moscow would prove that it had a frontally mounted gun, but no, the devs have decided Germany can't have anything, and they put the casemate in the back of the tank, where it was never intended to go. -Leopard: Missing its advanced thermal optics, nigh optics, infrared optics, and of course, the fantastic standard German optics, which could see enemy tanks out to 10 miles away. -GW Type E: After the Bismarcks where upgunned with 50cm cannons, where do you think those old 38cm guns ended up? I want my historically accurate firepower. -GW Panther: The turret rotated all the way, the autoloader let this tank fire off 5 rounds a minute, and the cannon was 17cm, but nice try with this sad excuse of a tank Wargaming. And, finally, worst of all... -Tiger: Where do I start? All I can say is that Wargaming made up every single attribute of the ingame Tiger save the name and the shape. In real life, the Tiger had a 1,000 HP engine that would allow it to accelerate to 60 KM/H. The frontal armor was 150mm thick, it was the side and rear armor that was 100mm thick, not the front. Not only that, it was made of superior German alloys, which provided it extra protection, something not modeled historically in this game. And the one thing that really made people fear the Tiger besides its insane reliability and armor, was the gun, and the Tiger's in game 88 L/71 is a complete mockery of what it was in real life. Instead of going through T-54's from 4000 meters with extreme ease, you just bounce off everything. Getting shot in the front carries a 95% chance of being lit on fire, despite the Tiger being a rear transmission tank in real life. The historical 14 degrees of gun depression is absent as well, and the devs do absolutely nothing to represent the later model Tiger's onboard firing computers. Truly, no self respecting student of history could look at this tank and feel anything by absolute and total disgust. 6. Sources Obviously, no one would take me seriously without good sources. With that in mind, let me present to you the most authoritative information locations I currently know of: -First, and obviously foremost, is the History Channel. -Second would be Death Traps by Belton Cooper. It really opened my eyes about the Shermans fire problem. Did you know that smoking within 100 feet of a Sherman was punishable by court martial it was so dangerous? -The German Heavy Tanks section of this forum has been invaluable -I watched a video on YouTube about this, the guy had the words "Rommel" in his name, so he must have been legit. -My friend's uncle's third cousin's half brother's dentist knew a guy who drove a Panther II against Soviet T-54, and this information was then passed down to me through the time e-honoUred tradition of oral history and tales of the past gifted to out generation from those who came before us. 7. Conclusion, History Thread Part I I'm glad that some of you undoubtedly took the time to read through this thread and learn the real truth the devs don't want you to know. Its important to learn from the past, in this case, we can learn from Germany how to successfully fight wars. If I am permitted and get enough positive feedback on this thread, I will explain how Germany lost due to the realization of its leaders that this war was pointless (Hitler in particular felt very strongly about this later on, seeing that the war was not worth the suffering of the German people) and they where unable to make enough super weapons to win the war near the end. It's certainly a complex tale of why Germany, which was doing so well up until near the end of 1952, fell, but its certainly one worth hearing. Anyhow, questions and comments are more than welcome, as long as we attempt to keep this civil. Thanks for your time, I'll leave you one last picture, and then the thread will be concluded. -Rofls (Pictured Below) The E-50 and its many upgraded variants. The tank was in production until the very end of the war in 1952. The final version the E-50 was rolled out in the twilight hours of the war during 1952, and featured a 120mm Light Gas Gun, which had devastating power. (schematics of the E-50 variants)
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