Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'spotting'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Posting Place
    • News and Announcements
    • Newbie Palace and New Users Introductions
    • Shenanigans
    • Patron Plaza
    • Ask Me Anything
  • Purple Player Interaction Centre
    • Casual Purple
    • Ask a Purple Poaster
    • Purple Poaster Replay Place
  • Serious-Face Enabled Discussions
    • Core Skills & Mechanics Discussion
    • Metagame Discussion
    • People, Platoons and Pwning
    • Vehicles
    • Upcoming Changes Discussion
    • Mathematics Corner
  • Improvement and Study
    • Mentor Meet-up
    • Tape Study
    • Articles
    • Tanks Media
  • Clam Rivalry and Posturing
    • Clam Wars Recruitment
    • [NA] The Drama Llama says: WTF Subversions?
    • [EU] Professional Pro Gamering: stronk tenks and stronk taktiks
    • [SEA] Low Server Population Clam Wars Edition
  • Related Games
    • World of Warships
    • World of Warplanes
    • World of Tanks Console
    • World of Tanks Blitz
    • Armored Warfare
    • War Thunder
  • The Archive

Blogs

  • Never's Blog
  • Melol's Blog
  • Melol's Blog
  • bjshnog's Game Dev Blog
  • TayTay's Diary
  • DROPLET'S SHITPOAST LAND OF OBJ.140 AND PADDING/CANCER
  • Noobs corner
  • Evelyn's Biting Corner
  • Dire's Blog
  • Constie's Awesome Adventures
  • Deft Penk Hidey Hole
  • blerg
  • Mundane Things
  • Majestic's Blog
  • WoTLabs Blog
  • German fanboy sperg blog thingy
  • A cheesy blog
  • Kuroi's Clubhouse
  • B-log
  • Ollie Tabooger's House Of Buttpiracy
  • vonblogger
  • _Clickers Blog of Rando Things
  • Blog name *
  • The_Illusi0nist's Blog
  • Shitposting With Skittles
  • rojo180's Blog
  • Tomhwk's Titillating Teal Time
  • how do i use a Kv2 effectively when teamates refuse to help me in WOT?
  • my blob
  • my blog
  • Shoe's Blog
  • Grumpy fail purple siema player is here
  • No Bullshit Reviews
  • The Journey
  • Sigh...
  • TEST
  • Reports of a beginner
  • CSI: Chinese Server Insanity
  • Hallo1994: Simply, Me
  • Wanderjar's Notebook blog
  • My journey to being a better player

Categories

  • World of Tanks
    • Tank Reviews
    • Strategies
    • Videos
    • Mods
  • Game Theory

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 13 results

  1. In pursuit of Light Tank Mission 15, I spotted for 1,500 damage and tracked a tank that suffered another 600 damage. I did not get the mission but I thought 2,000 damage would get me a high WN8 score. It did not. So I wonder how much 1,000 spotting damage is if converted into Damage I did myself? Is tracking damage measured differently? And yes, I read the wiki describing how WN8 works but I did not understand any of it. Sorry. Any help is appreciated.
  2. Hello! This is my first post here, i hope i don't screw up anything I am not the best player around, but i try my best. Anyway, i'm mostly a LT player, and i can't remember seeing many people using this bush for spotting when defending on Karelia, instead most just rush underneath the hill and usually meet enemy scouts there face to face, something i don't like doing in the early stages of the battle. That bush (improved with a tree, i tried to use the other one as well on other occasions but there is usually no time for that) sits in the middle between two rocks, and anyone going through the middle usually avoids it and hugs the rocks, so there is little chance of being spotted. It apparently also has very good camo (combined with that tree) as the enemy Bulldog came 50,5m away from me and didn't spot me. I'm guessing the Bulldog didn't have optics and/or a bad crew, since i've been spotted by other scouts before at cca. 70-80m. In the late game, IF noone is looking from the hill, you can even snipe to both sides unspotted. I would like to hear your opinion on it, and also on the way i played later on, what could i do better. I am thinking of better spots to passive scout, but i haven't found one yet, any ideas? the replay: http://wotreplays.com/site/1697705#self Thank you and have fun!
  3. When I've started the light tank missions i encountered the 4k spotting one... which I CAN't complete. So for example, when I'm in a game I don't know how well I'm doing with spotting. I'm wondering (will give some examples): - If I spotted an E-100 and I have a friendly tank near me (which can also spot E-100) and then I die...who gets the spotting damage--->me till the moment when I die and the rest goes to friendly tank or something else. - Similar scenario as the first one but this time I spot an enemy and get into cover whilst my teammate is still spotting him...do I lose my spotting as soon as i get into cover or does that spotting damage keep going to me for next few seconds (you know...when you spot someone and you break sight with them and they are spotted for about 3-5 seconds idk exactly). - And 3. scenario: you and ally are rushing an enemy (at the same time and same distance to them). Who gets the spotting: the one with the more viewrange or the one that gets closer to the enemy... I hope you understand what I'm asking...Didn't explain it so well (english isn't my mother tongue...) I have always been wondering about this and never quite understood it... Thanks and all answers are appreciated!
  4. Not entirely sure if this is the best place to talk about this, but from the other topics I saw here it seems the most relevant. Anyways, it is a well known fact that the API does not include damage upon detection statistics to be accessed, and thus this has been a limiting factor in WN8 calculations etc. for a long period of time. However, a few patches ago I was curious to see if such information could be extracted from replays. Using WoT-Replay-To-JSON (a vBAddict tool ) a particular replay was able to be analyzed in a human-readable form. Insights: The replay was well structured, most importantly an identify block was clearly found in the bottom lines of the JSON file. It contained two pieces of vital information: the playername and also the associated internaluserID, which was the internal ID used throughout the replay file to reference the player with their specific tank and statistics for the game. Under the vehicles block, referencing the internal ID of my player name allowed me to find the spotting damage, under damageAssistedRadio apparently. I believe this is also the spotting damage that shows up in the in-game scorecards (Right?) Thoughts: Since the spotting damage data is available (for quite sometime now actually, and vBAddict apparently factors it in into their calculations) and especially readable and quick to reference when parsed into JSON, isn't it possible to have an automated script process the replays (for those that do record replays) and pass on the spotting damage values to the servers where the API stats are processed to be factored in for calculations? Would this be some viable way to factor in spotting damage for WN8 calculations? Obviously, what I am proposing and talking about here is under the assumption that what I was looking at in the JSON file was indeed damage upon detection. If I am a fool or a noob who does not know what he's talking about, feel free to educate me. I am open to whatever opinion everyone has about this. JSON file is here for reference. Thank you.
  5. So with today's FTR Storm's conference call mentioned that sixth sense may be planned as a radioman perk skill that everyone would get once their radioman was trained at 100%. Your thoughts on this? Frankly, while I have spent a lot of time training up crews to have it (feel so naked without it), this is one area where I feel players with 1000's of battle have a significant advantage over newer players, and it is unrelated to skill, map knowledge, or core mechanics. So while it's frustrating to have ground this on a majority of my tanks, I do feel it is a bit unfair for those starting out, or starting a new line. (Added fifth choice as Rexxie has an interesting POV)
  6. Hi, I'm not a great light tank driver, but I think it is time I started driving these tanks more to optimize my map knowledge. Because at the moment I know it is seriously lacking. In order to get a little more structured feedback I've decided to take some print screens of the minimaps (just taken off the internet, don't look at the quality) and indicated where I go in my lights when the counter hits 0. The lines indicate only the initial locations where I go to, and depending on the deployment of the enemies I relocate or not. To keep it simple, I only indicate where I go, not where I want to spot or what I would like to do (active/passive). I also assume that the team setups allow me to go there in the first place, so it is not taken into account in these print screens. I'm assuming I'm a tier 6-7-8 scout in a high tier battle. Now I know that on plenty of maps I go to the wrong initial location, severely limiting my role in the game, just because I started of wrong in the first place. I get trapped or killed and so can't do much for my team. Could you guys go over the print screens and give me some pointers? Things I do wrong? Better locations to go to? If possible, could you do it in a format: Map Go to ... your position wrong because of ... Anyway, I hope we can have a collection here map locations for light tanks which can consolidate a lot of information from all the great players here. Abbey: (not sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Abbey_zpsd661a095.jpg.html?sort=4&o=10 Airfield: (not sure from East spawn) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Airfield_zpsa363f771.jpg.html?sort=4&o=12 Arctic Region: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/ArticRegion_zps663efe9c.jpg.html?sort=4&o=21 Cliff: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Cliff_zps1b2e4995.jpg.html?sort=4&o=26 El Halluf: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/ElHalluf_zpsa949ed6a.jpg.html?sort=4&o=23 Ensk: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Ensk_zps5f1f2a6c.jpg.html?sort=4&o=24 Erlenberg: (no probs) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Erlenberg_zps4a0628f9.jpg.html?sort=4&o=27 Fisherman's Bay: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/FishermansBay_zps4998a6aa.jpg.html?sort=4&o=20 Fjords: (no probs) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Fjords_zpsbec30165.jpg.html?sort=4&o=22 Hidden Village: (no probs) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/HiddenVillage_zps043dcd2e.jpg.html?sort=4&o=35 Highway: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Highway_zps7d44aaf1.jpg.html?sort=4&o=29 Himmelsdorf: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Himmelsdorf_zps4632892a.jpg.html?sort=4&o=36 Karelia: (completely lost) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Karelia_zps9a51b8f7.jpg.html?sort=4&o=28 Kharkov: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Kharkov_zpsebeaa0fc.jpg.html?sort=4&o=37 Komarin: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Komarin_zps9b2f635b.jpg.html?sort=4&o=34 Lakeville: (no probs) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Lakeville_zpsd96a1fd8.jpg.html?sort=4&o=33 Live Oaks: (not sure from North spawn) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/LiveOaks_zps09fa8f44.jpg.html?sort=4&o=31 Malinovka: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Malinovka_zps10e6b31c.jpg.html?sort=4&o=30 Mines: (no probs) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Mines_zpsb95b16c3.jpg.html?sort=4&o=32 Mountain Pass: (not sure from South spawn) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/MountainPass_zps131e2dac.jpg.html?sort=4&o=19 Murovanka: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Murovanka_zps313cce73.jpg.html?sort=4&o=18 NorthWest: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/NorthWest_zpsa96e0505.jpg.html?sort=4&o=7 Prokhorovka: (active scouting - no probs here) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Prokhorovka_zpsec59a065.jpg.html?sort=4&o=4 Redshire: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Redshire_zpsbf279c89.jpg.html?sort=4&o=5 Ruinberg: (no probs here) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Ruinberg_zpsc719c0cf.jpg.html?sort=4&o=6 Sacred Valley: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/SacredValley_zps6d46adcb.jpg.html?sort=4&o=3 Sand River: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/SandRiver_zps0646e839.jpg.html?sort=4&o=0 Serene Coast: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/SereneCoast_zpsac9100eb.jpg.html?sort=4&o=1 Severogorsk: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Severogorsk_zpsf0f799ea.jpg.html?sort=4&o=8 Siegfriend Line: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Siegfriedline_zps0e42ee94.jpg.html?sort=4&o=2 South Coast: (not sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/SouthCoast_zpsc2b5d9fc.jpg.html?sort=4&o=9 Steppes: (not sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Steppes_zps22415416.jpg.html?sort=4&o=15 Swamp: (not sure from North spawn) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Swamp_zps8dcca14e.jpg.html?sort=4&o=17 Tundra: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Tundra_zps00a9d4a5.jpg.html?sort=4&o=16 Westfield: (pretty sure) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Westfield_zps4abc928f.jpg.html?sort=4&o=14 Widepark: (no probs here) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Widepark_zps9a2457f6.jpg.html?sort=4&o=13 Windstorm: (no clue) http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/Kristof_Vanweert/media/Windstorm_zps1f89c719.jpg.html?sort=4&o=11 Thanks for any/all feedback.
  7. Most of you have heard some players discuss the camouflage values of a tank and possibly they threw around some numbers 16.87%/12.65%/3.34%. If you have no clue what those numbers mean, this is the guide for you. If you have ever driven (or seen someone drive) your (their) AMX 13 90 on the Malinovka field while spotting tonnes of enemy tanks and not getting counter-spotted, without understanding why, this is the guide for you. I will in this guide explain what the camouflage values mean, how they affect your view range in game and how the spotting range is calculated. I will NOT discuss the effect of single-double-triple bushes in detail in this guide. There are several other guides on this subject. I will also NOT go into detail how to exploit the spotting system. This will not be the most advanced guide. This should be considered basic stuff for any player aiming to be blue or higher. All camouflage values in this guide are taken from the following document. I want to highlight that this document is not my creation. I am just linking to it. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1w9YYhDuNWJKSdIPesGhS4YkZJodEqUSFoomumMWYynA/edit?pli=1#gid=355532698 Camouflage values In the simplest terms: The camouflage value of a tank is indicative of how stealthy the particular tank is. The greater the camouflage value is, the harder a given vehicle is to spot. Each tank in the game has three camouflage values: one for when it is stationary, moving and shooting. All scouts tanks (except the T-54 LT for some reason) have the same camouflage when stationary and moving (one of their only advantages over medium tanks). As an example let us look at some camouflage values: Bat Chat 25t camouflage values: 16.87%/12.65%/3.34% AMX 13 90 camouflage values: 17.67%/17.67%/4.21% AMX 50b camouflage values: 3.82%/1.94%/0.53% So without going into detail about what these numbers mean in practice we can see a few things from this simple comparison. The AMX 13 90 has the same camouflage value for moving and stationary confirming that it is a scout. The Bat Chat is almost the same as an AMX 13 90 when stationary and slightly worse when moving. The AMX 50b is not a well-camouflaged tank. Even when stationary and NOT shooting it has worse camouflage values than an AMX 13 90 blazing away. Protip: do not go camo-sniping in your 50b. Camouflage values in practice Now what does the 17.67% camouflage of the AMX 13 90 mean in practice? It is part of the (quite elaborate) calculation that is carried out when the game determines if two vehicles can spot each other. You can ignore the calculation and use a simplified calculation if you just want to understand in broad terms how the camouflage of your tank affects the spotting range of any enemy tanks trying to spot you. You can also look at the proper calculation in way more detail if you want to fully understand how different crew skills, consumables and equipment influence the spotting calculations. I will now go through both the simplified and advanced way of calculation the spotting range. I will assume you know basic math, but I will try to make everything as clear as possible for those who might feel a bit rusty on the old calculus. You can decide for yourself which of the two sections you want to read. Simplified calculation The simple way to calculate how a camouflage value affects the view range of the spotting tank is: spottingRange = ViewRange * (1 – camoValue) So if you are in an E100 (view range = 400 m) and you are trying to spot an AMX 13 90 moving across a field (AMX 13 90 moving camouflage = 17.67%) the formula looks like this: spottingRange = 400 m * (1 – 0.1767) = 329.32 m This shows you the practical result of a higher camouflage value. The higher the percentage the camouflage has, the equally higher percentage will be taken of the view range of the spotting tank. If we do the same calculation but with an ELC AMX (camouflage value of 21.89% when moving) we find that the spotting range of the E100 is now: spottingRange = 400 m * (1 – 0.2189) = 312.44 m So from this calculation we can see that the ELC AMX can move 17 m closer to an E100 compared to an AMX 13 90 without being spotted. Now you might be thinking: “But when will the AMX 13 90 or ELC spot the E100?”. This is easily calculated using the same formula. We know the view range of the AMX 13 90 and ELC AMX (400 m and 360 m respectively) and the camouflage value of a stationary E100 is 2.91%: spottingRange1390 = 400 m * (1 – 0.0291) = 388.36 m spottingRangeELC = 360 * (1 – 0.0291) = 349.52 m So the AMX 13 90 will have a “window” of 60 m to move around in where the AMX 13 90 will have the E100 spotted but the E100 will not spot the AMX 13 90. For the ELC this window is only 37 m because of the poor view range on the ELC. Now a word of warning: all of these calculations are SIMPLIFIED calculations. They ignore anything outside base values, so no crew skills, consumables or equipment is taken into account. This is especially important in regards to view range enhancing skills and equipment. If you want a slightly more precise calculation you can take any optical equipment into account. Coated optics adds 10% to the base view range and binoculars add 25% to the view range of a stationary vehicle. Advanced calculation The advanced calculation is using the following formula: spottingRange = effectiveViewRange – (effectiveViewRange – 50) * camoFactor That doesn’t look to bad, does it? You take the effective view range and subtract the effective view range minus 50 m (the proximity spotting range) and multiplied with the camo factor of your tank. Easy stuff, right? Sadly this is only the main formula. There are two supporting formulas to calculate the effectiveViewRange and camoFactor. Let us start with the camoFactor. The formula is as follows: camoFactor = baseCamo * (0.00375 * camoSkill + 0.5) * camoAtShot + camoPattern + camoNet + environmentCamo Now this may seem like a big mouthful with a lot of strange labels and coefficients, so I will try to break it down for you: The baseCamo is the camouflage value of the tank either moving or stationary, exactly as I explained in the start of this guide, and it is multiplied with the camoSkill (along with some coefficients) and camoAtShot. The camoSkill is the ‘effective’ camo skill of the crew members. This is a combination of the crew camo training, commander skill level, premium food consumable, improved ventilations equipment and the perk Brothers in Arms. The camoAtShot is the camouflage value for firing the gun. If you want to calculate for a tank that is not firing, this factor is neglected. After these three factors are multiplied, you add the following: camoPattern, the bonus for any camo patterns (value depends on vehicle type); camoNet, the bonus for active camo net (10% for mediums/lights, 5% for heavies and cancer, and 15% for TD’s); and finally environmentCamo, the bonus from any bushes the tank might be hiding behind (single, double or triple bushes). So now you know what goes into calculating the actual camouflage value of a tank, let us now take a look at the effectiveViewRange factor. Sadly I have not been able to find a formula like I did for camoFactor, so I can only list the different factors that influence the effective view range of a tank. Each tank has a base view range, similar to their base camouflage values. This base view range is then subject to different factors (again, similar to the base camouflage values). First off there is the equipment of coated optics and binocular telescopes that adds 10% and 25% respectively (although binoculars only active when stationary). Then there is the effective primary skill of the commander which is controlled by his own training, improved ventilations, Brothers in Arms and premium food. Lastly there are also the recon and situational awareness crew skills for the commander and radioman respectively. In total, if you mount/train everything that can possibly enhance the view range it is possible to increase the base view range by an amazing 44.5-ish%. This means that a tank with 400 m view range will have an effective view range of 577.90 m. Now I hear you ask: Why would I want to have a 558 m view range when the maximum view range is hard-capped at 445 m? If you limit your view range to 445 m you will not be able to spot anything at maximum spotting range – because the camo factor of all tanks will decrease your view range down below max spotting range. If you on the other hand have an effective view range of 500 m the camo factor of some tanks will not be able to force it under the maximum spotting range and you will indeed spot them as soon as they enter the maximum spotting range. I could now give you a practical example of both camoFactor and effectiveViewRange, but that would quickly become a mess and a waste of the time of everybody. Instead I highly recommend you go play with the camo-calculator on wotinfo.net (http://www.wotinfo.net/en/camo-calculator). Here you can type in your vehicle name together with an enemy vehicle to counter-spot your vehicle. You can then see how the camouflage values (and spotting ranges) changes depending on all the different factors mentioned above. It is a great tool to play with, and understand, how the camouflage works. I hope you learned something from this guide. I certainly did, which is always a nice plus. If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to ask or comment away.
  8. Here's a quick summation of why invisitanks happen, even during a peek-a-boo, but also the action-reaction cycles of those situations. A poster @ NA WoT forums complained about Romulan tanks... and well, my post there is only going to be forgotten anyway, so I might as well put it here where people give a damn. More Romulan cloaking devices found. His beef was summed up in the following video video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ys5Kv8woSVM My responses buried on the bottom of page 3; the wasted breathe and breathtaking Paint.NET skills ridiculous South Park-calibre box tanks shan't go to waste. ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ Sight lines (server vision checks) are drawn from the center of objects on your tank -- hull and turret -- such that your most-distant corner sprocket can be seen first by a passive tank parked on an edge. All of that foliage in your face and between you and the E100 doesn't help either. It's gimmicky but that's the way it is. Spotting Mechanics: It's in a spoiler because this is a touch esoteric. Spoiler Basically ANGLES: I'll draw a Paint.NET file since my coffee is still scalding: Note: of course, these are not perfectly to scale, but I did, in fact, draw 2 yellow lines from the T34 HT analogue, and it displays an important caveat: when you pie a corner by moving forward: your 2 vision checking areas can overlap -- so it really puts you at a disadvantage. (Whereas you can see with the E100 HT analogue, depending on the exact model and forward / center / rear turret placement of a vehicle, it can have overlapping spot-check lines, increasing the coverage) Finally, the E100 is very tall, and might have a spot check going over bushes you cannot, to see your front hull. WG.net did mention some time long after 6.4 they changed or added spot checking areas IIRC, but having played through many a patch cycle, I can tell you that they haven't really changed the scenario above. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ====================================== HOW TO DEAL WITH IT: 1) patience if that's an option; of course, there's a very simple technique available to at least rule-out the presence of a tank there with some confidence of probability: 2) when you get to the suspected camp position of a tank, and you are CONFIDENT YOU ARE NOT CURRENTLY SPOTTED, you poke just ... a bit and back off. IF your lightbulb pops: you can bet poking hard and fast is gonna hurt -- a lot. Especially since it could be that worst-case scenario -- high-armor + alpha turreted heavy. And Patton knows what else. 3) Once a fight is joined in these situations, you'll want to bait the defender into shooting first and bouncing / missing / tracking you. A well-disciplined or skilled defender probably won't make the mistake, but many, many players do, and then they can be put into an increasingly negative action/reaction cycle. 4) in the sillier, mutually-stacked peek-a-boo fights, target selection is everything. *Did the very forward guy back up into a teammate? Well, make him pay while he's still exposed. *If possible, track the one in behind, trapping 2 tanks! (this is exceedingly rare) *Is there a tank in the rear of that stack with crappy armor? Often, he'll get left hanging in the wind by his bigger teammates in front, or can be caught off guard *SECURING A KILL IN THESE SITUATIONS IS OFTEN VITAL -- but only provided it's one of the tanks with actually relevant firepower / armor in this situation. Over-pieing to kill a medium tank who mostly wasn't penning people is a waste of hit points. Taking a shot, or even 2, but KILLING the biggest / toughest tank or best-damaging-output PLAYER (often a unicum, but just as often a solid green or blue purple) often IS worth it. *just as important a consideration -- taking shots for teammates, if you have the armor for it. The peeking side which conserves guns/lives usually prevails. 5) not an additional tactic but of absolute importance: you need to know your tank's armor profiles in this situation -- how reliable the off-angling glacis armor becomes, your back up speed, how exposed your sprocket is (permatrack here is quickly lethal, esp. tier 9+ matches) -- and your own tank's soft-gun stats and ability to work against enemy armor. It's rarely over quick, except for enormous, concerted pushes, or defenders against hapless, piecemeal attacks. =========== On your video: one last pointer: regardless of why/how the spotting works, the lightbulb gives you an edge to work with. When that allied Tortoise dies, it was his fading (residual) spot which timed out -- and made the E100 go invisible. At least, based on when you start your video, this is a reasonable inference. When you aggressively chase those vehicles, the worst case scenario is similar to what happened -- they actively disappear while you pie foliage and hard cover (the hill side) while you are lit the entire time. As it were, you and the E100 were mutually unspotted to each other -- you had an initial advantage which died with the Tortoise. (you were operating with knowledge of the E100, but not him, of you -- allied spotting) This is where my diagram kicks in. So the allied death reset the spotting cycle, and that E100 had the critical advantage of the defending spotting mechanics (and possibly the E100's height) and of course, tier/firepower. If anyone wants to add to this, clarify, pigeonhole -- esp. with-respect-to updates to the spotting mechanics ever mentioned in FTR which didn't make it to the NA WoT wiki -- please do so.
  9. In my quest to improve my game, I would like to improve my ability to use camo to snipe without being seen. Lately I think my experience per game has been lower than I would like because I use others to spot for me more often than not. This is partially due to the tanks i've been playing (leo 1, Chi-To, Chi-Nu) but I feel I could do better in this regard. I make use of bushes when I can but I find more often than not I'm guessing about whether I will be seen or not if I fire. This results in my taking a shot and backing into cover to see if sixth sense went off, and if not poking back up and continuing to fire. When watching replays from good players it seems they already know if they will be spotted when they fire. Is this a result of experience playing a certain tank or more about knowledge of view ranges of opponent's tanks? Is there a check-list of some sort that you go through before firing from camo cover, something like: 1. is the target at sufficient range that I won't be spotted 2. are there places to hide within view range that someone could be sitting passive and spot me from 3. will the bushes in between us prevent me from being spotted What are some tips and tricks that I can use to improve this aspect of my play? Do people actually do view range math in their heads or is it more a general feeling based on experience?
  10. After reading most of the stuff here and there I decided to try and write a guide myself. Mostly taken from others and my experience. If you make a valid point I gladly change it. After a while, I'd like to post it on official forums. There are some simplifications in mechanics so I hope I didn't write something too misleading. I slightly omit scouts and SPGs, because I don't play them much. And my formatting kind of sucks, I'll change it. GUIDE: This guide is meant for beginner players. Some mechanics are heavilly simplified but should suffice until reaching certain expertise. You can get to more detailed guides on particular topics. I list other guides at some sections which provide more detailed information. So you started this new brand game and want to shoot and kill things, because what is more fun than moving in a 40ton monster shooting stuff? You probably have some experience in Call of Duty, Battlefield and such. Good, you know the basic concepts of competitive gaming. But they seem to not work in this game (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Well you are at the right place. These are the basics. The goal of the game - kill enemy team/capture enemy base - killing enemy is preferred, but sometimes not that safe (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/228710-anatomy-of-a-capture-defense/). Firing You aim at your target, you press mouse - gun fires, seems simple doesn't it? In fact there is more to it. First is your reticule, the smaller it is the better - that circle you see is possible deviation of shell from the cross in the middle. Shot will most likely go to mid of your reticule, but sometimes it does not. Generally anything that is inside that circle can be hit and even sometimes things outside. If you don't move or move your reticule, it will start getting smaller - your gunner is aiming. At some point it stays still - it means your shot is most accurate it can be for now - with longer distance, chances of missing are greater. Also bear in mind that in third person view you see more than in sniper view --> use sniper view for firing (shift changes modes in default or you can use mouse wheel to zoom). Game calculates distance instead of you, it is easier than in real tanks. Penetrating enemies Ok, so you were lucky, you aimed well and shot goes off, you hit and nothing happened. Here comes to play the penetration of your shell, thickness of enemy armor and of course angle of enemy armor. You only penetrate when your penetration is higher than armor of your opponent. But there is more to it - angle of enemy armor increases its effectiveness and distance reduces penetration of your shell. When you put your aiming circle on enemy it goes either red, yellow or green - this show chance of penetrating. Red - unlikely, yellow - there is a chance, green - very likely. But... there is always some but. This colour does not take into account angle of his armor or distance. Enemy armor Armor is listed as a value in milimeters - starts around 20-30 at tier 1 tanks up to 300 at tier 10 tanks. In the garage you can see those values for front, sides and back of your tanks and their turrets, but... There are weakpoints - for example commanders cupola at the top of the turret (not tower) is generally a weakspot. Also lower frontal plate - that small place between tracks on the lower front of tank is usualy a weakspot (there are of course exceptions to this). So for your beginner's aiming you are ok with this sequence of weak spots. Back of the tank<side of the tank<lower frontal plate<commanders cupola<front of tank. Everytime you can't penetrate a tank I suggest that after battle you run Google and search for "'tank I had problems with' weak spots". You get a lot of images showing needed weakspots and are usually accurate enough. Camouflage/spotting (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/304916-lerts-guide-to-being-the-invisitank-camouflage-and-spotting-basics/) How did I get hit, I can't see anyone shooting at me! That is a typical situation involving spotting and camouflage. You can be spotted at a range around 250-300 metres. Each tank has its own range of visibility as well as a camouflage value. With higher tiers the spotting range increases up to 445 metres(that is maximumum game limit). While spotting range increases ability to see further, camouflage negates this. It is very similar to penetration/armor thickness. When you are spotted, you stay spotted for 5-10 seconds if you manage to hide. Seems easy, well there is of course another but. Behind buildings you can't be seen from that direction. And behind bushes you get camouflage bonus - more bushes means more bonus. But... if you fire your gun, your camouflage value drops and bonus from bushes is negated. So shoot wisely - if you can't hit reliably mind your trigger. So camouflage is: stationary>moving>firing vehicles. Radio When you spot enemy, you also broadcast his position to your nearby teammates - this range is determined by theirs and your radio signal range. These values summed together give a communication distance to your teammate. If you are further, he won't be able to see your tagets and you won't see his targets. Even you won't know his position on map (as well as he won't see you). Draw distance Even if you should know position of your enemy, you may not see him. This is due to draw distance. You can only see enemies in a box around your tank that has a side of 1000m - it means seeing tanks 500m vertically or horizontally, diagonally you can see tanks 707m far. Drawing distance in graphics options does not influence this, you will always see all allowed tanks. My Armor (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/284733-lerts-guide-to-picking-your-fights/) You now know how to see enemies and how to hit them. But you need to ensure they won't hit you. Here comes the basic equation presented by CrabEatOff. camo/draw > exposure > armor > first strike > hp From best defence on the left to the worst on the right. So best is not to be seen at all, if you are, it is good to be behind something solid. If you get hit, your armor should handle it. If not at least give him more damage than he is giving to you. I just skip to the situation when you see neemy, he sees you and you know he will fire. You just have few seconds to prepare for it. If you know he can't penetrate you, you are ok, but you can never be sure. Basic thing you can do is hide behind solid object - house, hill, corpse of tank. If you can't you should at least angle your tank and thus increasing your armor. Angle depends on thickness of your frontal/side armor. Generally it is best around 25 degrees (0 degrees is straight to your enemy) - sometimes caled sidescraping. Better solution is to hide behind a hill so that only your turret sticks out - hull down position. Also if you wiggle a bit (move right and left and move your turret too), it makes enemy aiming and penetrating you more difficult. Lert wrote a nice guide about most these topics (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/159638-lerts-thread-of-duh-or-mspaint-schematics-explaining-gameplay-basics/) Tank selection(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/251985-about-vehicle-types-roles-and-playstyle/) There are 5 tank types. Light tanks - fast, weak, low damage. You start with them, then you can choose another branch. In higher tiers some are flagged as scouts and get harder matchmaking (they meet more powerful tanks) because their purpose is to scout and find enemies. I suggest WoT wiki for finding those. They are hard to play so it is wise to avoid scout tanks at the beginning. Advantage of scout tanks is high view range and their moving and stationary camouflage is the same. Medium tanks - fairly mobile, medium damage, good accuracy on the move, tougher than lights. They are best for fast movement and unexpected attacks and also have good camouflage values. There are exceptions to this. Heavy tanks - slow, well armored with guns packing a nice punch. They are probably most forgiving for beginners and you can find some fast ones too - e.g. Chinese and French line. their biggest issue is speed and are big, so are often bothered by artillery. Tank destroyers - they pack the biggest punch in the game (often gun mounted on tanks tier higher), have best camouflage. Usually they are either fast or well armored. Artillery(SPG) - artillery fires with ballistic curve and is used for support fire mostly. It fires mostly HE shells and is weak itself. Try them to get the idea but I suggest playing other tanks at the beginning. Modules Tank is composed of modules, where some of them can be upgraded to better ones - namely turret, gun, tracks, engine, radio. Not every upgrade is possible for every tank. Like tanks modules are divided into tiers, but higher tier is not always better than lower tier. Some modules are used on multiple tanks, so when you research it on one, it can be used on other. Tracks - increase turning and running speed and increase carry weight - can be seen at top right corner as a number 36,5/37,2 for example showing your tank weighs 36,5 tons out of 37.2 possible tons (metric tons - 1t has 1000kg) Engines - increase acceleration and sometimes lower chances of fire. Value is in horsepower - hp. Turrets - increase hps of tank, view range, sometimes armor and ability to mount better guns. Sometimes they allow faster firing speed. Guns - influence penetration, damage, rate of fire, accuracy, aim time. Each gun has totally different statistics and needs a bit of evaluating. Penetration and damage are the most important, but other values have a huge impact too. Higher tier gun is not always better than lower tier. Ammo (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/273627-lerts-guides-to-shells-shell-types-and-shell-mechanics/) There are several types of ammo. There are 4 types AP - standard armor piercing ammo used to hit tanks. HE - high explosive used to hit weak targets, provide fire support. Generally penetration on this ammo is lower and gun caliber influences ability to do damage (152mm gun is more effective than 105mm gun), damage mechanics is completely different and a bit complicated. HEAT - high explosive anti tank, they cost gold or more money to fire them, you can change this in the service section. But they have better penetration than AP. APCR - armor piercing composite rigid, they also usually cost gold and have more penetration than AP, but have a slightly different penetration mechanics (they handle better angled armor than HEAT shells). You can consider them same as HEAT for starting purposes. Carrying few HEAT/APCR (around 5), sometimes referred as gold shells, is a good idea unless you plan to change your gun/tank very quickly. They help with harder targets. Tank crew Most tanks have its crew composed of Commander, Driver, Gunner, Loader, Radio operator. Some tanks miss radio operator (then some other crewmember has 2 specializations) or other crew members (e.g. ELC AMX has only Commander and Driver, where Commander is Gunner, Radio operator and Loader too) while some have more Loaders - usually SPGs and big tank destroyers. High tier modern tanks tend to have 4 crew members (without Radio operator). Your crew gets more experienced by getting experience. When you hire new crew/retrain other crew form other tanks you can train them for credits/gold. For 20K credits per member he can be trained to 75% basic skill (For 200 gold to 100%) or more if he is more experienced. The game will show you preview what happens after training. Basic skill influences reload speed, aiming, driving speed, view range. It is very vital to get it to 100% fast as possible. After getting to 100% basic skill level your crew can get another skills - you can select them and for credits/gold even change them. Training is sometimes discounted by Wargaming. Crew skills I list general first skills for each tank type, decision is influenced by playstyle. As soon as you get first skills to 100% you can choose another skill up to 5 skills per crewmember. As soon as your commander has his first skill at 100% it is very vital to retrain his skill to Sixth sense (applies to every tank). Sixth sense tells you when you are spotted by enemy. Sixth sense is a perk - it means it only works at 100%, while skills (repairs, camouflage, fire fighting etc.) work at any level (30, 60%). There are more perks, but this one is most notable. Scout tanks - 1.camouflage,2.driving skills/view range skills Medium tanks - 1.camoflage/repairs,2.gunnery skills/driving skills Heavy tanks - 1.repairs Tank destroyers - 1.camouflage Artillery(SPG) - 1.camouflage Crew moving You can use one crew in another tank if they have the same nationality. But if they drive improper tank their effectiveness is lower. Also when driving another tank type, it is lower (they are T57 Heavy crew driving Hellcat). Exception are premium tanks, where you can use any crew of the same tank type without penalties (like T57 Heavy crew in T14 premium tank). Also if your tank is elite (has all modules and tanks researched), don't forget to check "Accelerate crew training" in top left corner above commander to increase crew training speed - this doubles experience on one of the crewmembers (one which has the least experience). Tank equipment Most tanks get benefit from Rammer - increases firing speed. But you can't move it to another tank unless you spend 10 gold - which is very cheap and should be used. Other good equipment is Binocular telescope (25% increased view range) and Camouflage net (bonus to your camouflage value) - they both work only when stationary for 3 secs, but can be moved from tank to tank in garage freely. If you don't have enough cash a pair of these greatly helps you in battle. Wargaming gives discounts on modules, so I suggest getting 2-3 pairs of these when 50% off and swapping them on tanks. Later you will used specialized equipment on each tank, but at start you are low on cash. General optimal tank setups listed below. Each tank can be played differently and some benefit more from different setups. These are only general setups that will work most of time. Note that vertical stabilizer is available around tier 7-8 and is considered better option to gun laying drive. Some tanks, namely autoloaders benefit from having both and they can't usually mount rammer. Scout - Coated optics, ventilation, camouflage net/rammer - depends if you shoot or focus on spotting Medium - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation Heavy - Gun rammer, vertical stabilizer, coated optics/ventilation/spall liner on really heavy tanks Tank Destroyer - Gun rammer, gun laying drive, coated optics/camouflage net/binoculars Artillery - Gun rammer, Gun laying drive (improves aim speed), camouflage net Consumables Tank can carry 3 consumables, they are chosen in service section. Basic setup for most tanks is repair kit, med kit and fire extinguisher. All of these have advanced variants that heal all crewmembers, repairs all modules all extinguish fire automatically. They also give a nice flat bonus even if used. But they are more expensive. Another option is to use food - gives flat boost to whole crew and is used each battle or fuel that increases vehicle speed and turret rotation speed. For starting I suggest getting basic repair kit,fire extinguisher and med kit. They can be freely moved between tanks. Good option is to buy them in advance during discounts (button store at the left above tank). Using consumables is recommended at tier 4+. In lower tiers the outcome of battle usually doesn't net enough credits to pay for them. But you can carry them for safety reasons. Positioning (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/212496-why-the-famed-center-rush-is-usually-a-monumentally-moronic-idea/) This is the most difficult part - you can find guides for each map in many guides. Generally try not to move alone. Also bear in mind your role. You should keep some type of cover nearby, hard cover preferably and also being behind a bush. Don't stick too to another player, you may block his exit route or spot him. Don't die first. Try to surprise your enemy and attack from different spots. The more early you get your gun to play the better, but dying too fast is not good. Your aim should be to do the same amount of damage your tank has hitpoints(it is around 3-5 shots a game). Later you can add up. If you are moving in open terrain, try to use valleys - even a small bump in terrain can save you. Suggestion on tanks good for beginners - in terms of teaching specific mechanics Russian Heavy line - KV1 and so on, lessons in sidescraping, heavy tank use American Heavy line - T29 and so on, lessons in hull down American TD line - T49, Hellcat - lessons on camouflage, not being spotted American autoloader line - T71, T69, scout lessons, autoloader lessons, tier 7+ is great but 5 and 6 are not that friendly German Heavy line - Tiger - lessons in sidescraping American medium - vision control, hull down Russian medium line - T34 - fast firing and flanking These are currently considered decent tanks for 2 most important end game tiers. Every tank has its strong points and weaknesess and heavilly depends on playstyle. These are merely suggestions. I listed mediums and heavy tanks mostly. Good lines of tanks for tier 8 American medium - Pershing, T69 Russian medium - T-44 Russian heavy - IS-3 Chinese heavy - 110 German TDs - both lines, JGPII, Rhm. Borsig French heavy - AMX 50 100 Good lines of tanks for tier 10 American autoladers - T57 Heavy American heavy - T110E5 German TDs - WT E100 German Heavy - E100 Russian medium - Object 140, T62A French medium - light/medium line ending in Batchat French heavy - AMX 50B Russian TDs So for good learning experience and also end game tanks I suggest these tank lines: American Heavy - T110E5 line Russian medium - Object 140 line German TDs - WT E 100 line American autoloader line - I suggest get some experience first, there are scout tanks(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/198457-how-to-deal-with-autoloaders/). French medium/hard - hard to master, but offer a different playstyle Sources of other information about WoT http://rocketbrainsurgeon.com/category/world-of-tanks/ http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/186917-lerts-collection-of-guides/ http://wiki.worldoftanks.com/Main_Page General hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/forum/405-survival-guide/) Stick to the tank you are comfortable with, if you jump from one to another your performance will suffer. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. Keep your T1 crew in barracks and put it to T4-5 tank to save on expenses. Good learning tier is 6-7, you can make mistakes without huge punishements, but you won't learn bad habits. Point of the game is not getting Tier 10 vehicle, each higher tier faces harder oposition with better players. Purchasing a higher tank will not make you more powerful(http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/286046-combat-briefing-for-the-new-player-aka-what-to-expect-from-wot/). Weekends usually offers some discount so wait for them. Fulfilling missions (top left corner in garage) can net you some nice credits. Short hints (http://forum.worldoftanks.com/index.php?/topic/98891-lerts-easy-tips-for-beginners/) 0) Have fun 1) Don't shoot your teammates, if you manage to hit them, apology should be made. 2) Don't sit in the open. 3) Ramming your teammates is rude and can spoil their aim/camo/binocular telescope 4) Have a plan for everything 5) If you are spotted, move 6) Surprise your enemy 7) Think before shooting - will it penetrate, is it worth resetting my camouflage? 8 ) Watch the minimap - this is very important to see the tactical stiuation. +- keys next to 0 key modify size, make it big enough to see exact positions of enemies/friendlies 9) Don't be rude, there is often player that makes you angry. If you respond you are getting yourself to his level, you don't need that. 10) Check wotlabs.net for good support and plenty of more detailed guides 11) If you are willing to get better and admit you can improve, you are on a good way. 12) If your base is captured it is you who must go defend it, noone else will do that. 13) Keep your gun in play. 99) Fun is forbidden, stats are what counts
  11. Just ran across this on FTR, might be useful tidbit to know. - according to developers, there has been some mistake earlier in explaining the viewrange, so – this is how it is: a damaged viewport (yellow) still gives you 100 percent viewrange, red viewport gives you 50 percent viewrange - the difference between a yellow and white (undamaged) viewport is only the number of its hitpoint remaining and – indirectly – its vulnerability, since next hit might knock it out completely Hopefully this might help some of yall. I know a couple times that I was in a TD or FCM 50t and got viewports knocked down to yellow, I was sorely tempted to burn a kit on em so I would have full vision range. (I always assumed yellow viewports were the same as yellow ammo rack) Turns out this is not necessary!!!
  12. Disclaimer: This is something you have to modify according to your own tanks, crewskills, equipment and taste. It is not universally applicable. The closest enemy will not see me until I fire... I've entered in custom circles for the minimap part of the XVM config file. They indicate at what range you will be spotted by, mostly, an enemy with 400m view range. You are already familiar with the white drawrange square and the 50m proxyspot circle... Red circle: You will be spotted, in the open, standing still.Purple circle: You will be spotted, in the open, moving.Yellow circle: You will be spotted, in the open, firing. { "ussr-T62A": { "alpha": 60, "color": "0xEE4444", "distance": 303, "enabled": true, "thickness": 0.5 } }, { "ussr-T62A": { "alpha": 60, "color": "0xFF00FF", "distance": 326, "enabled": true, "thickness": 0.5 } }, { "ussr-T62A": { "alpha": 60, "color": "0xFFFF00", "distance": 378, "enabled": true, "thickness": 0.5 } } Link to my xvm config file. Detailed instructions on how to use (any) custom xvm config file: I've used the WOTINFO site as a source for the data, I used to crawl around spreadsheets and russian posts, but wotinfo seems to keep track of the valid numbers. Use this site to find out about your tanks and setups then update the numbers accordingly. Maybe you want to assume it is a 440m viewrange tank who's looking at you? I generally run my meds and TD's with full camo skill, if you do the same my config will pretty much work for you. There may be issues using this with modpacks et al. as they usually come with their own xvm config or minimap mod.
  13. Sorry if this post have been done, I searched and did not find one. I seem to be getting conflicting information about spotting and view range. The Wiki says they are the basically same, but contrary to reports elsewhere, view range can increase to over 500, On Tank Inspector, regardless of what I add, I can not get a view range over 500, When I load up my tank and crew with binocs, recon, and situation awareness, I should get over 500 if possible. But in battle, my mini map does not increase its view area nor do I seem to light up targets for myself over 500 on the regular map. I can sit and watch them on lit on mini map and moving to my view range, but they do not appear on the larger map until crossing the magic 500 line. This is very important as I do not want to waste crew skills or equipment slots. Which is true, can I get over 500 or not?
×
×
  • Create New...