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Eagle_Peak

VK 36.01 H and beyond...

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So I played through the VK 30.01 H and grinded my way up to a VK 36.01 H and have the Waffe/Konisch unlocked. Before I buy the VK 36.01 H, what should I change in my playstyle? I know that the VK 36.01 H actually has some armour (unlike the previous VK 30.01 H which is "is as flat as a tsundere loli" (person who wrote a VK 30.01 H guide on Asia WoT forum)), but are there any changes how I should approach enemy tanks? (i.e. brawl, snipe, sidescrape, etc. For example, would I, on a half city, half open (i.e. Ruinberg or something like it) map, would I go field/open area or would I go city? Also, would that change depending on battle tier - for this example, use battle tier 6, and battle tier 8...)

 

Forgot to mention this, but...

Does the playstyle change significantly and are there any special things that I need to know for when I play the:

  • Tiger I
  • Tiger II
  • E 75
  • E 100
Edited by Eagle_Peak
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Tiger I goes back to the "sniper" playstyle and is a horrid stock grind (free xp the long 88/turret/tracks).  Tiger 2 plays better at longer ranges also, but can use its armor to bully lower tier tanks.  E75 is a decent grind since you start with the 225mm pen 105 (which you definitely researched on the tiger 2). 

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VK 36.01 (H): can both snipe and brawl, use Konisch for sniping and 88 for brawling. If you're going to brawl, just remember that abusing angles and sidescraping are your bread and butter defense

Tiger I: relatively thin, unsloped armor, a large profile, and lowish mobility may not sound too appealing, but the DPM is downright godly for a Tier 7 HT, and if needed, it has a sizable HP pool to take a few shots lategame.

Tiger II: Similar to Tiger I, only you now have okay good armor if you can hide the LFP and angle, and your DPM is not as good. If you're top Tier, playing it as a brawler and leading the charge is acceptable, but middle or bottom, snipe. When angled properly with the lower glacis hidden, you're impermeable for 240 or under penetration guns, and if you wiggle your turret a bit and juke back and forth, your cupola isn't much of a problem

E-75: A radical change from the preceding tanks, which were largely lowish alpha, good DPM, and somewhat armored sniper/brawler mixes, this thing is almost like a Russian HT in that it's all about brawling. As a matter of fact, it can be said that it plays closest to the ST-I, and both are extremely good tanks at what they do; they get in close, peekaboom, sidescrape, and bully even Tier 10s at pointblank range with high alpha. Even unangled, the UFP is impervious to even the BL-10, as well as having a tough lower glacis, and if you can wiggle a bit so they can't hit your cupola, it becomes one of the most well armored and dangerous tanks in the game.

E-100: Like the E-75, it has rather nice armor in most aspects, except for the fact that it has some enormous weakspots that I assume you know of: the LFP, viewfinder bar, turret front, etc. However, most of these weaknesses can be negated by using tactics that have been used throughout the line (sidescraping, armor angling, wiggling the turret, etc.), and it takes the "high-alpha heavy brawler" concept that the E-75 introduced to a new level; As you almost certainly already know, this thing has a 750 alpha strike boomstick, and with HEAT, can reliably pen most targets. In most aspects it's similar to the E-75, although it would bode well for you if you were to angle your turret between shots; AP ammo from most tanks will probably bounce either way, but at Tier 10, you should be expecting gold ammo, and when well-angled, the turret will bounce most of the shots fired at it, regardless of type.

Although a lot of people complain about German tanks bursting into flames, they actually burn less than Russian tanks, since A. the transmission hitbox is located right behind the weld seam, and most people shoot at the middle of the lower glacis, which just takes HP damage, and B. Russian tanks have fuel tank hitboxes all over (*cough*mediums*cough*). Either way, you should have extinguishers on all heavy tanks, as they are meant to take hits, and thus you should expect fires from time to time. Sorry about making this into a wall of text.

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Good stuff so far.  

 

All these tanks are sidescrapers, however the side armor barely changes from VK-Tiger 2 (but I would say Tiger 2 is probably the weakest sidescraper of the group, though with it you get a front plate with some weight to it) so hope you mastered that in the 3601. 

 

These all got depression buffs in the last big patch, expanding their capability with hulldown/protected lower plate situations, though in the Tiger you never want any of your front hull exposed at all, but feel free to bait shots into your turret front- just be aware of the cupola. You will be able to absorb shots this way because

1) Some people think they can just auto-pen a Tiger anywhere

2) People used to fighting Tiger Ps will shoot your face. 

 

Tiger is a beast now with its HP, great gun, view range (with RoF and depression buff). With 380m vision and sniping gun start getting used to playing vision control games (optics are a decent choice).  But don't get smug with any of these tanks, they are all punishing of mistakes (especially Tiger I).  Tiger 2 however can and will get penned in the front of the turret by >200 pen guns (so just about any gold round or regular AP from higher tiers), which can get pretty frustrating, So poke, don't bait shots against big guns. 

 

Top tier guns make for good grinds after you get the long 88.  That's a fine gun for the King Tiger  and then the KT's long 10.5 is a fine gun for starting the E75. As mentioned free xp the long 88 and all the turrets for all 3 as soon as you can. 

 

It's a great line. Have fun!

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Does anyone have good replays of:

  • the VK 36.01 H sniping with the Konisch
  • the VK 36.01 H brawling with the 88mm

If so, then thanks in advance, because I played a few matches and struggled to get 1k damage.

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